Wine and friends

This week, I did something I had hoped would never be necessary: I deleted some comments here, and cut off the commenter. His statements were simply too toxic for my taste, and he was using this site to denigrate others (who had been skewering him as well, but in childhood parlance, “he started it.”).

I’m fine with people criticizing me, and even questioning my professionalism, as this non-gentleman did. I can answer for myself, and in this case I will respond, not to any trash talk but to the notion that one cannot assess wine objectively if one is friends with people in the trade, the wholesalers, retailers, restaurant buyers and vintners.

In a word, hogwash. Balderdash. Poppycock. Horsefeathers. Tommyrot. Oh, and malarkey.

FriendsNever mind that by hanging with these folks, I learn a LOT about wine and grapes and the people and processes behind them. Or that we find plenty else to talk about, whether in a vinous context or not: geography, history, ethics, politics, culture, etc. We might delve into whether winemaking is art or science, but we’re more likely to talk about art and science, period.

Never mind that I gravitate toward those who don’t take wine, or themselves, too seriously, people who realize that wine is there for enjoyment, to be talked about (or not), but never to be talked to death.

No, the key point is that when assessing wines, I know how to be objective.

I’m experienced enough to know that context matters, that at certain gatherings Tim(especially with those pesky friends) and/or in certain locales, a wine is absolutely going to be more memorable than if it were one of a dozen bottles I taste when I’m appraising samples. So I grade the former on a downward curve.

I’m also wise enough to know that those sample sips are just a snapshot, and evaluated in a flawed context, nothing like the way that we otherwise consume wine: over the course of an evening, usually with food. I do the best I can accordingly.

Bringing impartiality to the proceedings is what journalists do. I am sick to f-ing death of the attacks on my profession that have emanated from the right wing since (at least) Reagan. It’s hogwash (et al.). Of course we have personal views on religion and people and, yes, politics. But we put them aside when we do our work, and to claim otherwise is misguided, mean-spirited malarkeybullshit.

As simplistic as it sounds, there are two kinds of people in the wholesale and retail biz: those who are passionate about wine and those who might as well be selling widgets. I gravitate toward the former, and make no apologies for socializing with them.

Being passionate makes us better, not worse, at assessing wine: more delighted when we find something wonderful, and downright disgusted and insulted when we encounter swill.

 Blessedly, these folks generally don’t traffic in swill.

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Linkin’ logs: 4-30-13

Some might say the Interwebs is/are getting curiouser and curiouser. But through my looking glass, it’s getting cooler and cooler. To wit

• Are you a wine snob, a wine geek or neither? This handy-dandy primer from Katie Kelly Bell provides the litmus test.

• I used to say such-and-such was “the best,” but I’m working on changing that to “my favorite.” But I’m pretty sure that Wine Folly is the best, and certainly is my favorite, newish wine website. Madeline Puckette’s artistic eye, incisive approach and thorough research make packages like this one on wine glasses the very definition of “can’t-miss.”

• Finally, some images, a periodic table of wine followed by a gender guide:

Periodic

 

Wine Gender

 

 

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Wines of the Week: April 22-28

Everyday: Neither the bottle nor the website reveals which grapes comprise the Cottonwood2010 Cottonwood Creek California White Table Wine ($8), and I’ll choose not to obsess despite its deliciousness. It’s spritely and clean with some heartiness from peach and melon flavors and just enough acidity. The finish is shortish and slightly sweet. For those who care about such things (present company included), the grapes are organically grown. Pastas or risottos with spring vegetables or shellfish would be very happy on a table bearing this, the tastiest under-$10 white I’ve encountered this year.

Occasion: After two recent Burgundy tastings, I’m not quite ready to say “Buy all the Pommard2011 Pommard you can get your grubby little paws on.” But no problem recommending the purchase of a buttload of the 2011 Joseph Drouhin Pommard ($45, a good bit cheaper via the link). I touted the 2009 in this space a couple of years ago and normally wouldn’t come back to it, but Laurent Drouhin told me that the 2012 vintage will be decidedly smaller due to hail and other weather problems. Refreshing and elegant with some nice oomph on the finish, this is classic Burgundy, equal parts feminine and masculine. I’m roasting a lemon-oregano roast chicken for my next bottle, but grilled fowl and Vidalias or salmon/trout would sing with this beauty.

Posted in Burgundy, California Wines, French Wines | Leave a comment

Telmo Rodriguez, telling it like it is

I’m jealous of my friend Kent Benson. Not just because he’s an accomplished wine educator at Swirl wine school in St. Cloud, but because he got to take in a talk last night by one of TelmoSpain’s greatest winemakers, Telmo Rodriguez (at left).

Kent was kind enough to pass along some of the highlights from the evening:

• On the importance of vineyard sites: “[Why is it that] when we talk about Rioja, we talk about process – Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva. When we talk about Burgundy, we talk about vineyards.”  … “Grapes are like loud speakers, to talk about places.” … “My wines are not signed by a winemaker, they are signed by a place.”

• On sources of Rioja wines, “Rioja Alta or Alevesa is not enough – you need to know the vineyards.”

• On time in oak: “We ask the wine, ‘How much time do you want to spend in the cask?’ ” … “A wine that is a maceration of oak is a shame.”

• On caring for the vineyard: “In the ’60s we thought growing grapes was as simple as: plant, spray, harvest. That’s like saying raising children is as simple as: doctor, university, marriage. It’s a lot more complicated than that.” … “It’s not a matter of biodynamic or not Biodynamicbiodynamic. A vine is something to take care of. It’s not a machine.” … “It doesn’t make sense to be a pig in your vineyard.”

• On natural wines and the use of sulfur: “What is a natural wine? Maybe a natural wine is vinegar.”

• On the wine market: “Wine is made by the consumer, not the producer. If you keep drinking bad Spanish wine, I’m dead.”

Posted in Spanish Wines, Winemakers | 4 Comments

Whole lotta learning

So we did something the other night that we really enjoy: not only bringing together two cool couples who didn’t know each other, but also having an incredibly smart guy from the wine trade and a couple who were mere wine enthusiasts.

That’s a good way to avoid having wine talk dominate the night — and it worked, as we discussed art, perfection, novels and all manner of stuff. But the wine novices also asked very interesting questions about our favorite beverage. So I checked in with my friend Denny to see whether he had learned anything interesting about wine. His response:

Dom“I learned that old wines can get too old, and a wine can get too old faster than I had thought. [We had two 1990 Champagnes and a Montlouis from the same year; they ranged from oxidated to quite good.] So drink what you have!

“I learned about the Merry of Merry Edwards [they had brought the ever-delicious Merry Edwards sauv blanc].

“I learned, again, that everyone loves Champagne. Ice cream, chocolate, Champagne. Everyone loves ‘em.

“I learned that if people could talk politics the way we talked about wine, peace would reign. You can share, disagree, listen, hold forth, communicate every which way, without having to be ‘right.’ Maybe Congress should drink more, or maybe they should move the capital to Napa.

“I learned wine needs food more than any other kind of drinking. You can drink beer and hard liquor alone, but wine? Something about good food and good wine, it takes two to tango. Good food and good beer? Not really necessarily. Good food and good bourbon? Not really necessarily. Good wine and a good meal (and good cheese selected by the Wards!)? Absolutely.

“We learned about the family with the holdings under the streets of Beaune, that I would love to see.

“I learned how fast you can change a label. Small point, yes. But really interesting.

“I learned about carbon exchanges and how [our other male guest, the wine pro] Larry really cares about what he does and how he does it, A to Z. Impressive.

MOO-14240041 - © - Nick White“I learned that real wine people only talk about good wines; they don’t waste their time talking about bad wine. Something very positive about the whole experience. The way serious writers talk about the books they love, and don’t waste time on bad literature. They’re positive critics, if there is such a thing.

“[My wife] learned that if you drink too much on Saturday, you lose a Sunday. (She drank on an empty stomach, she hadn’t eaten a thing that day.)”

Good lessons, one and all, from a wise man who’s always striving for more wisdom.

Posted in Bubbles, Experiences, French Wines, Packaging, Pairings | 10 Comments

Malbec recommendations

Finding a good malbec is easy. Finding one that’s a really good value is tougher.

Most Argentinian renditions tend to be acceptable for the price, but many are overly jammy or over-oaked, or both. The ones from Cahors (that reach these shores) are swell but often a bit spendier.

There’s a definite Old World-New World dichotomy, with the French stuff generally dustier and earthier and less fruit-forward. Some Mendoza malbecs achieve a measure of this. The wines listed below, then, are nice for the price, and represent the grape and region adeptly.

$10 and under
• Diseno Malbec Mendoza
• Dona Paola Los Cardos Mendoza
• Famiglia Meschini Premium Mendoza
• Finca Flichman Mendoza

$15 and under
Crios 2• Catena Zapata Mendoza
• Dominio del Plata Crios de Susana Balbao Mendoza
• Domaine Du Peyrié Cahors
• Chateau Eugenie Cuvee Reserve de l’Aieul Cahors
• Finca La Linda Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza
• Piattelli Lujan de Cuyo Premium Mendoza
• Ruta 22 Patagonia
• Tempus Alba Maipu Cuyo Mendoza
• Terra Rosa Old Vine Mendoza

 

 

$20 and under
Cent Visage• Chateau De Hauterive Chemin de Compostelle Cahors
• Jean-Francois Merieau Cot “Cent Visages”
• Tikal Natural Mendoza
• Trapiche Broquel Mendoza
• Veramonte Cruz Andina Mendoza

 

$30 and under
• Achaval-Ferrer Mendoza
• Ch. Eugenie Cahors Haute Collection
• Piattelli Lujan de Cuyo Grand Reserve

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Wines of the Week: April 15-21

Everyday: I’m not much good at blind tastings, but I often can identify a zin from Dry Dry CreekCreek Valley, for its distinctive dusty/herby (some called it briary, whatever that is) red fruit. The 2010 Dry Creek Vineyard Heritage Sonoma Zinfandel  fits that profile splendidly, as have the previous vintages of this wine. The tannins are just firm enough, and the finish’s rustic tones deftly evoke the ground from which this sprang. Try this spot-on earth/fruit amalgam with baby back ribs, either with sauce or a Moroccan spice rub, or medium-spicy Mexican dishes.

Occasion: I am nigh onto giddy over the prospects for grenache blanc in central CigareCalifornia. Two way-smarter guys who share that excitement are Tablas Creek’s Jason Haas and Bonny Doon’s Randall Grahm. The latter’s 2011 Bonny Doon La Cigare Blanc finds  grenache blanc’s crisp, bright flavors melding beautifully with rousanne’s richness, forging a seriously harmonious beam of citrus and stone fruit, plus major lift on the midpalate. It’s a perfect pre-meal sipper, especially at 12.5-percent alcohol, and would be delicious with any rendition of fowl or fish.

Posted in California Wines | Leave a comment

The wide red range

I love wine (duh!), and I’m generally quite fond of others who love wine. But I have a hard time understanding — and have given up trying, lest my head explode — those who have a narrow view of what good wine is.

So I have little time for those who will drink only “natural wine,” even though it’s kinda fun to ask them to define it, or only European wines, or only big-ass Napa cabernets. Part of what makes wine so fabulous is the amazing range of flavors and textures that can be wrought by fermenting grape juice.

I have a friend whom everyone knows as “Burgundy Bob,” although he confides that sometimes he’s really “Barolo Bob.” But as much as he adores those leaner, quintessentially European reds, he also holds an annual “Zinfandel Night” that is always great good fun.

AraujoNow I’m wishing we had invited Bob to a gathering last weekend, where the theme was zins and something else, preferably unusual or distinctive. The latter adjective certainly applied to the 1998 Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet that my friend Cass (who always steps up to the plate mightily at these events) brought, along with a 1998 Martinelli Jackass Hill Zinfandel.

Those two wines proved how refined a powerhouse red from California can be. The cab also provided further evidence that the maligned 1998 vintage is aging waaaaaay better than the ballyhooed ’97s are, although as Cass noted, “the people who knew what they were doing made ’97s that have aged well.” The Martinelli was also sublime, voluptuous but undergirded with minerally goodness.

At the other end of the spectrum were a couple of lean, beautifully defined entries, including a focused, harmonious 1998 Noel Verset Cornas that my friend Mitch brought. For some, the wine of the night also had a European bent but hailed from California: a 2011 Arnot-Roberts Luchsinger Vineyard Clear Lake Trousseau.

TrousseauThis light red was beautiful at the pre-zin beginning of the night and fairly profound at the post-zin end. Color-and texture-wise, it could have passed for a rosé, and the herb-kissed red fruit, beautiful florals and spot-on acidity made for a near-perfect package. The estimable Eric Asimov took a look at the ongoing emergence in California of this grape, found mostly in France’s Jura district, last fall. I can’t wait to buy and try a lot more, from here and across the pond.

During the course of the evening we had some fabulous zins from Carlisle, Turley, Lagier-Meredith and others, plus my first-ever chili with mushrooms in it (thanks, Mark!). Even within the zins, there was a wide array of intensity and subtlety, freshness and rusticity.

Despite a rather limited range of varietals, the night included most everything red wine has to offer — for a crew of cork dorks who knew how to appreciate that breadth. My peops.

Posted in California Wines, Experiences, French Wines, Red Wines | Leave a comment

Dooley noted: More on Stephen Ross Dooley

I thoroughly enjoyed yacking with winemaker Stephen Ross Dooley last month, and when I went to write about him in my day job, the constrictions of print media meant leaving some stuff out.

A few more thoughts from the Minnesota native turned Central Coast vintner (pictured below with his clan):

• Sites in the Santa Maria/Edna Valley area: “We now have a pretty good handle on what should be grown here. The first grapes were planted here by the Spanish mission in 1772. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn 1973 we had the first commercial grapes. We tried everything. Syrah and grenache do pretty well in a lot of spots. Winemakers also now have a pretty good idea of what clones they want. And we understand a lot more about row direction and density.”

•  The climate there: “We pick earlier these days, a little bit with the chardonnay. With pinots, we want 13.5, 13.8 [alcohol] tops. Because of the cool air we do have a lot of acid, so if we pick too early the wines are too acidic. The average daytime high in the summer is 74. If you go downtown to the farmers’ market [in San Luis Obispo] on Thursday night, you’re gonna want to wear a jacket.”

• Trying wine while growing up: “My mom taught at Mankato State. Sometimes we’d go to another faculty member’s house, and there would usually be an Italian red that I wouldn’t like.”

• Farming in his background: “My mother grew up on a dairy farm in Michigan, and we spent a lot of summers out there. I loved being on the farm. I was a little guy, and those cows were huge.”

• “Farming” now, as recreation: “I still garden, mostly to relax, not for idea inspiration. I get more of those in the shower.”

•  On how much he likes making and drinking chardonnay:  “It gives me a chance to play, and with just 100 cases I don’t have to sell a lot out of state – and we like to drink ‘em ourselves. We’ll be getting low and I’ll say ‘Wait, I want a case.’ “

Posted in California Wines, Winemakers | Leave a comment

Wines of the Week: April 8-14

Everyday: An Italian-American film director making a California chardonnay with a CoppolaFrench name? It actually makes sense in the wacky world of wine. It also tastes delicious in the case of the Coppola “Votre Santé” California Chardonnay ($14), a rich but not too buttery mouthful of smoothness. The lovely tropical and stone fruit is allowed to shine, balanced with a touch of tanginess. Try it with fried or roasted chicken, soft cheeses or milk chocolate. And toast with the wine’s name, which translates as “To your health.”

Occasion: Tasting three vintages of the Rust En Vrede Estate ($35), most recently Rust en Vredethe 2009, has convinced me that it deserves its reputation as perhaps South Africa’s most consistently excellent high-end wine, at least among what makes its way to these shores. While the gorgeous nose on this cabernet sauvignon/shiraz/merlot blend evokes red fruits, the flavors are much darker: herb-laden plum and berries. It’s big and bold in the mouth, sleek and elegant on the almost endless finish. Like many South African reds, it could be decanted for a bit before quaffing. Try it with beef or lamb, grilled or braised, or with tapenade and other olive-y dishes.

Posted in California Wines, South African Wines | Leave a comment