Wines of the Week: April 22-28

Everyday: Neither the bottle nor the website reveals which grapes comprise the 2010 Cottonwood Creek California White Table Wine ($8), and I’ll choose not to obsess despite its deliciousness. It’s spritely and clean with some heartiness from peach and melon flavors and just enough acidity. The finish is shortish and slightly sweet. For those who care about such things (present company included), the grapes are organically grown. Pastas or risottos with spring vegetables or shellfish would be very happy on a table bearing this, the tastiest under-$10 white I’ve encountered this year.

Occasion: After two recent Burgundy tastings, I’m not quite ready to say “Buy all the 2011 Pommard you can get your grubby little paws on.” But no problem recommending the purchase of a buttload of the 2011 Joseph Drouhin Pommard ($45, a good bit cheaper via the link). I touted the 2009 in this space a couple of years ago and normally wouldn’t come back to it, but Laurent Drouhin told me that the 2012 vintage will be decidedly smaller due to hail and other weather problems. Refreshing and elegant with some nice oomph on the finish, this is classic Burgundy, equal parts feminine and masculine. I’m roasting a lemon-oregano roast chicken for my next bottle, but grilled fowl and Vidalias or salmon/trout would sing with this beauty.