Everyday: The venerable Sonoma winery Pedroncelli makes a dandy red blend called “Friends,” and “friendly” is a good way to describe the Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel ($11). It’s a smooth sipper, heartier and spicier than most but still decidedly pink on the inside. Not only are some of their vines more than 100 years old, but the Pedroncellis have been making zin rosé for more than half a century. Try this with grilled shrimp or chicken, or with one of my favorite meals, the first BLT of the season.
Occasion: Not sure that I’ve ever seen “profound” and “pinot gris” in the same sentence, but there’s no time like the present. The off-dry Meyer-Fonné Kaefferkopf Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris ($50) has what we cork dorks like to call “nerve,” the tension that firm minerality produces, plus spectacular citrus and stone fruit flavors. Its layers of tastes and textures roll on minutes after swallowing. Try it with roast pork, fruity salads or with earthy hard cheeses at the beginning or end of a meal. But most of all, just try it.