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Apr
2014
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Wines of the Week: March 31-April 7

Everyday: I wanted a refreshing white the other night, and when I saw “albariño” on the label, I grabbed the Garzonbottle. What I didn’t know until finishing it the next night is that the 2012 Garzon Albariño is not from Rias Baixas but … Uruguay. The nose is a seriously alluring floral/fruit mashup, and the fruit flavors manage to be multilayered but precise, retaining the crisp, mouth-watering elements I was seeking. Mostly, I’m thrilled that so much great albariño is coming out of the New World (including LaZarre, Cambiata, Dancing Coyote and Abrente in California). Shrimp cocktail, lobster-infused mac-and-cheese and lemon chicken are among the great pairing options.

Occasion: Upon trying a third vintage of Denner “Mother of Exiles” ($67), in this case the 2010, I’m Dennercomfortable declaring it one of California’s very best Bordeaux blends. Hearty and harmonious, it’s one of those wines that shows a little somethin’ different with each sip, although the rich/rustic finish is consistently nigh onto endless. This red gem from a stellar, can-do-no-wrong Paso Robles winery has the structure to last for a decade (at least) from the vintage year. The New York strips we had with it provided one of those each-makes-the-other-better experiences, and it’s likely that roasted leg of lamb or even grilled burgers would do the same.

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