Wines of the Week: May 12-18

Everyday: It has been downright swell to see many New World vintners pulling away from the oaky/buttery style so prevalent at the turn of the century. The 2013 Robert Oatley Margaret River Chardonnay ($17) is an exemplary effort in that vein, with deft layers of lushness and leanness and seriously tasty pear and Meyer lemon notes. The lovely textural byplay continues through the long finish. This is the rare chardonnay that would play beautifully with roast pork loin or chops, not to mention a fried-fish sandwich. Enjoy it with Laura Nyro’s soulful, splendid collaboration with LaBelle, “Gonna Take a Miracle.”

Occasion: The Mendoza malbec fandom marches on, and over the years, some wineries have figured out how to make serious, robust wines with the grape, not just friendly quaffers. Case in point: The 2011 Famiglia Meschini Mendoza Malbec Gran Reserva ($25), which is nigh onto profound. Everything one would want in a malbec is there: ripe fruit, touches of spice, a bit of cocoa/chocolate. The weight teeters between medium and heavy, creating a hearty mouthfeel and robust finish. Skewers of tender beef and Vidalia onions cooked over a hot fire are made for this wine, but most any grilled meat will do. Along with another early-’70s classic, Santana’a “Abraxas.”