Wines of the Week: May 18-24
Everyday: Leave it to nonpareil importer Kermit Lynch to find a moscato that’s the perfect commingling of acidity and ripeness. The 2012 Elvio Tintero Sori Gramella Moscato d’Asti ($13) is a stunner, all lush flavor (layers of stone fruit, melon, etc.) and vibrant minerality. This is a full-throttle effort with a beautifully bracing finish that includes plenty of that fruit. Anything spicy from Mexico or Asia would sing with this Piemontese gem, along with earthier dishes (fowl with mushrooms, for example). Add to the mellifluousness by plopping on one of my favorite recent musical discoveries, the swinging’ duo of Ella and Buddy Johnson.
Occasion: Sommeliers have glommed on to German pinot noir of late, but I’m just as happy with a pinot meunier from Deutschland. The 2013 Weingut Karl Darting Pfalz Trocken Pinot Meunier ($22) is gloriously earthy/iron-y/minty with big-ass ripe red-berry/cherry flavors and a lush-ish midpalate/finish featuring nice spicy notes. It will please pinot-files and delight anyone who wondered why folks would drink red wine from Germany. These guys have been growing grapes since 1780 but bottling them under the Darting name “only” since 1989. Like it’s noir-y mate, this wine is made for roast chicken. Or pork. And it might be the best pizza wine I’ve tasted in eons. Another musician of yore, Reverend Gary Davis, provides a perfectly rustic soundtrack.