Everyday: If I could have only one type of wine at the Thanksgiving table, it probably would be riesling, in an array of dry/sweet iterations. The gorgeous 2009 Mittnacht-Klack Alsace Riesling ($18) falls on the drier side, but still boasts gobs of juicy melon and green apple flavors and a lush midpalate and finish. But the crisp acidity makes its presence known from the get-go. Aside from turkey, dressing, sweet potatoes, et al., this is a great option for roast pork or game birds, whether the preparation is simple or has a creamy leaning. Yum.
Occasion: The other fantastic – and underrated – one-type-fits-all option on the fourth Thursday of November is bubbles. And since I don’t believe in trotting out anything spendy with a likely number of guests not being wine enthusiasts, the $25 J Cuvee 20 is a super choice, and not just because it tastes like a $50 wine. Brisk and spicy on the nose and palate, this Sonoma sparkler is smooth but sexy and possessed of great length. Like the riesling, there’s a green-apple component that plays nicely with Turkey Day’s more acidic foods (especially-ever-difficult cranberry sauce) and a mouth-watering juiciness that does that yin-yang thing with the savory stuff.