Everyday: To cap an evening dominated by large-and-in-charge reds, it’s always nice to have a clean, refreshing white. I was reminded of that
last night in the early a.m. when my friend Lee brought out a Felines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet ($11). It was appropriately tangy but also fruitier than most picpouls, with pear playing off the usual green-apple notes. That made for a super-fresh finish to the wine and to the night. Enjoy it with shellfish or fried fish, or on the patio in the early (or late) evening.
Occasion: Anything with Alvaro Palacios’ name on it is seriously OK by me, but most of his wines from Spain’s Priorat region are out of my financial league (even though they’re worth the money). Happily, his Camins del Priorat ($22) is an affordable bottle filled of richness and elegance. A blend of carignan, garnacha and cabernet sauvignon, it perennially boasts firm and focused fruit and texture followed by a smooth-as-all-get-out finish. Big enough to play well with grilled meats, it also should pair nicely with game or fowl dishes or some roasted winter squash.