Wines of the Week: Dec. 28-Jan. 3

Everyday: Sometimes I think that my tasting notes for a wine should start and end with “yum,” and the score/rating Roter 2would be the number of exclamation points that follow. Several of them would be attached to the Wimmer-Czerny Roter Veltiner Fels am Wagram ($18). The vintage truly doesn’t matter with this crisp but savory, super-expressive gem because the fruit is beyond delicious and the bracing acidity ensures that it ages nicely. Good luck keeping your paws off of it, though. This amalgam of wet stones and stone fruit is a white wine for red-wine lovers. And for all wine lovers. Of course it will play well with most any seafood, but I’m popping a cork on it the next time we make an herby roast pork. And plopping on Ryan Adams’ stellar “remake” of Taylor Swift’s “1989.”

Occasion: I loves me some Super Tuscans, but the tariffs can be a bit much. Or a lot much. A great entree/sampler  La Volteis the 2013 Ornellaia Le Volte dell’Ornellaia ($22), which has the flavor, firmness and swell finish to identify it as a worthy wine. And the cherry-berry thing to ID it as a Tuscan wine, although not as powerful as its “Super” siblings (which is fine by me). That also makes it a great match for pizza and pasta, especially with tomato sauce, but this is also one of those burgers-and-brats wines, Make the smooth but stirring work of 10,000 Maniacs part of the occasion.


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