Everyday: Year in and year out the Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier ($13) is a stone-cold delight — as in stone-fruit taste, wet-stone feel and serve-me-cold bearing. Big and juicy, and alternating between zingy and soft, it is a delightful mouthful of freshness, flavor and texture. That makes it hard to stop and savor the floral and nectarine aromas, but do try. This lovely white blend can handle medium-spiced Asian or Latin American dishes and might be one of the best fish-fry wines around. It’s right at home on the patio by itself, too.
Occasion: I’m not going to make a habit of citing the same winery two weeks in a row, but I will make a habit of buying as many 2009 Burgundies, red or white, as I can afford. Starting with the Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 2009 ($55). Lush and then lean, fruity and spicy, bracing and elegant, this is chardonnay for people who say they don’t like chardonnay. Virtually any preparation of shrimp or scallops will absolutely sing with this wine, and it’s got just enough acidity, especially on the finish, to hold its own with a big ol’ summer salad.