29
Sep
2014
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Wines of the Week: Sept. 22-28

Everyday: It becomes easier to understand why Hungary’s Tokaji Aszu dessert wines are so swell when one tastes still wines Affinitasmade from the same grape. The 2012 Affinitas Furmint ’12 ($16) is just such a wine, with fabulous floral aromas and a lean, lovely start than softens with a touch of sweetness (it’s 15-percent muscat) through the thoroughly satisfying finish. The name “furmint,” btw, is taken from the word “front” due to the wheat-gold color of the wine. With its dry-sweet notes and seamless texture, this is a wonderful pairing wine. It rocked with paella last week and would play well with most any other dish featuring shrimp, as well as medium-spiced Asian dishes. The sultry, silky, soulful singing and deft fiddle work of Amanda Shires provide the perfect soundtrack.

Occasion: I loves me some Washington merlot, which often is “bigger” and better than its cabernet sauvignon counterparts at the same winery. Woodward 2Most Evergreen State wineries blessedly nail them both, among them Woodward Canyon, whose 2010 Columbia Valley Merlot ($40) does that rare dance between intensity and elegance. The nose is berry- and plum-laden, and on the palate the perfectly ripe fruit and firm tannins do another dandy do-si-do. The finish is silk incarnate and nigh onto endless. It’s a fabulous fall food wine, meshing with grilled or roasted meat and root veggies. More apropos accompaniment comes from the ever-brooding (but here not as dark as usual) Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds.

26
Sep
2014
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Parlez-vous straight talk?

I’ve never understood the antipathy toward the French held by many Americans. In my experiences, if you’re nice to them, they’re nice to you. (Just don’t pick up a piece of produce to smell at a farmer’s market.)

Regardless, we have a lot to learn from them when it comes to wine. Some samples of their wit and wisdom:

Ponsot• “The best wine on the planet is the wine in my glass when I am drinking it”!  — Laurent Ponsot, Burgundy (left)

• “When you marry your wife, you don’t know what she will look like in 30 years.  It’s the same with a wine.”  — Fréderic Jaboulet, Rhône

• “There is no bad vintage. There is only bad wine.”— Albert Seltz, Alsace

• “Rhône wines are not stuck-up. They are friendly; in the glass they come to you and jump on your nose.” — Louis Barruol, Rhône

• “Great wines are like children. If they start out balanced at a young age, chances are they will end up wonderful and balanced later in life as well.”  — Gerard Potel, Burgundy

24
Sep
2014
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Linkin’ logs: 9-24-14

The past is prologue, and the main item, on this week’s curriculum at Linkin’ Memorial High

• The wonderful wine website Vine Pair has posted a seriously cool map on wine consumption over the decades. Hold your curser over the map and watch the evolution.

• One of my most strongly held views is that the drinking age should be lowered to 18; this belief is a remnant of when it actually was, thanks to Soldiersthe unassailable argument that if you’re old enough to be a part of your nation’s military, you’re by-God old enough to drink. That said, it’s heartening to see that among 12- to 17-year-olds, underage drinking is down.

• One of the many things I like about wine people is that they are into history, and not just of wine. Here’s a toast to the US of A’s oldest winery, celebrating its 175th year of harvest this fall.

• Speaking of lifelong learning, the Academic Vino is doing a wonderful series on grapes such as carmenere.

• Still, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. Here are 10 nuggets that wineries are loath to share.

• Finally, a nice explanation/rationale for what we do:

wine

 

21
Sep
2014
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Wines of the Week: Sept. 15-21

Everyday: Portugal’s red blends get better and better, but often are priced right at the good-value precipice. Not so the Udaca2010 Udaca Dao Colheita, which checks in at a wallet-friendly $13. There’s a whole lotta bing cherry (with a touch of sweetness) going on, and the midpalate and finish are surprisingly smooth, nigh onto elegant for a wine that has its share of earthiness. The vintners have taken the middle ground in Portugal’s ongoing traditional-vs.-modern battle. It’s a perfect autumn wine, both for sipping and pairing with the foods of the season: truffled french fries, chicken cacciatore with fresh mushrooms, celery root puree. The hearty, ever-smooth tenor-sax work of  Mr. Lester Young will cap off the experience.

Occasion: The weather might be cooling, but for some of us, an energetic white is Zibibbojust the ticket. The 2013 DonnaFugata “Lighea” Terre Siciliane Zibibbo($23, often less) has big, bold flavors and mouthwatering zestiness thanks to just the right dollops of acidity and minerality. This Sicilian white throws an off-dry note at you on the midpalate but finishes more citrusy and juicy. It’s the rare white that will play well with salmon, but lighter seafood and poultry dishes also make for swell accompaniment. As do the crystalline, lively vocals of the late, underrated Kirsty MacColl.

 

14
Sep
2014
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Gleanings: 9-14-14

I’m behind on everything, including passing along nuggets from my experiences at home and on the road. Some recent notes, quotes and anecdotes:

Asher •During a wine-soaked afternoon, we were yacking about Gerald Asher (left), and my friend Larry recounted a dinner with one of my favorite wine writers that included a great assessment (non-vinous). Turns out Asher is also a classical-music aficionado, and was asked which of Gustav Mahler’s symphonies was the longest. His answer: “whichever one you’re listening to.”

*Last month, a friend hosted a Bergstrom wine tasting, very informal and lots of fun. And man oh man did the 2012 pinots rock. They show more structure than the ballyhooed ’08s and are very expressive young, which Bergstrom wines generally are not. In other words, they can be consumed young or cellared. And I am already setting aside semi-major money for 2012 Oregon pinots, which have been hitting the market of late.

• I’m also quite pumped about New Zealand pinot gris, although with a lot less first-hand experience. But two recent samplings of this varietal — Amisfield Central Otago and Wairau River Marlborough, both from 2012 — were superb experiences, with freshness, balance and length galore, not to mention gorgeous fruit. A 2011 Marlborough Pinot Gris from Kim Crawford’s new venture, Loveblock, was a sensational find last year. They’re still a bit tough to find in this country but worth seeking out.

Peterson 2• I love judging wine competitions, and a big reason is the chance to break bread with the likes of Dr. Richard Peterson (left), a ridiculously accomplished winemaker and wonderful fellow. He passed along a story about working for the Gallos in the 1960s, when flavored wines were all the rage. Peterson was charged with making a “Whiskey Sour Wine” and was quite pleased with the results, as were his associates. But when they test-marketed it with Ohio retailers, the response was “this is really good, but we think this trend has run its course.” And so it had, at least until Boone’s Farm and later Bartles & Jaymes burst upon the scene. Peterson is most of the way through writing a book about his nearly six decades in the wine biz, and I can’t wait to read it.

 

14
Sep
2014
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Wines of the Week: Sept. 8-14

Everyday: Sometimes torrontes can be too floral and ripe for its own good, or at least for my good. Not so the Alberti2011 Alberti 154 Salta La Rioja Torrontes ($13), which pulls back just enough on the aromatics and sweetness and nails the juicy/soft part, plus that whole delicious thing. It’s also for surprising length for Argentina’s signature white varietal. The last fresh tomatoes of the season, especially as part of a BLT, would make sweet music with this beauty, but so would some plump shrimp cooked any ol’ way. And as for real music, the sublime singing of the late Israel Kamakawiwo’ole is just the ticket.

Occasion: I’ve had two vintages of this particular (and particularly swell) wine recently, and the most readily available is the 2010 AltoMoncayoAlto Moncayo Veraton Garnacha ($26). It’s tasty from the get-go, with stout dark red fruit and fluid tannins rolling across the palate all the way through a stirringly robust finish. Anyone who wonders why we talk so much about texture should taste this gem. An herb-laden roasted pork loin with root veggies is a spot-on pairing, but this grenache also would play well with a similarly prepared whole chicken or hearty beef stew. The soundtrack: one of my favorite bands ever, the sturdy, rollicking Rockpile, featuring the redoubtable duo Nick Lowe and Dave Edmunds.

9
Sep
2014
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A certain ‘je ne sais quoi’

“The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, Bertrandbut wiser people full of doubt.” – Bertrand Russell (left)

Wise words, these, and I recognize their wisdom more and more as I age. The phrase I have adopted is “Certitude is the enemy.” And it applies to much of life. For starters, throughout history, most wars have been wrought by cocksure buffoons but fought by others. The Dick Cheneys of the world, whether dodging the draft in the 1960s or goading his boss’ Daddy Complex in a war of choice in Iraq, stayed far away from the real fray. The same with most of the religious zealots and power-hungry progenitors of past conflicts.

And while the stakes tend to be decidedly less serious, a similar arrogance often creeps into the wine world. The inimitable, indispensable HoseMaster of Wine skewered the our-way-or-the-highway forces brilliantly in a post packed with masterful puns and splendiferous satire just yesterday.

The problem is not the wines that are championed by these forces. I’m a big fan of many of the In Pursuit of Balance vintners, and of many of the wines garnering megapoints from Msrs. Parker and Laube. As in most endeavors on this mortal coil, it’s the people mucking it up. Millions of would-be wine enthusiasts have been turned off by wines snobs, people who seem to believe that the more strongly held their views, the more viable those views are.

I count a few folks who have these tendencies among my friends, mostly because I admire and value other aspects of their personalities. I wish they wouldn’t be so dogmatic and didactic about wine, although it often provides an opportunity to make light of these tendencies.

DrinkersNot all wines need to be “natural,” whatever that is, nor must they have massive fruit or perfect harmony to be worthy of our attention. Plenty of imperfect bottles are perfectly enjoyable.

Basically, I wish the dogmatists would find the ability to give their high horses a day (or a month, or a lifetime) off. I’ve certainly had to learn to do that, to stymie the predilection to be the smartest guy in the room. I was discussing this internal battle with a woman at a holiday party last year. Her response:

“I like to say, ‘if you’re the smartest person in the room, you’re in the wrong room.’ ”

Not sure exactly what it means — several interpretations are possible — but it has the ring of truth. I’m fairly certain of that.

6
Sep
2014
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Wines of the Week: Sept. 1-7

Everyday: It’s often said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. ParoFor example: looking for a truly great domestic pinot noir for under $20. I guess, then, that the 2011 Paro Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($19) must be the proverbial exception that proves the rule. There’s lovely red fruit and that forest-floor thing from the get-go. A touch of smoke kicks in, and the finish is seriously long and even more seriously delicious. The predictable aspect of this version of the varietal is what foods go with it: roast chicken, must anything with mushrooms or cherries in it, root veggies, etc. Take in the wondrously earthy, pure work of Buddy and Julie Miller while you sip.

Occasion: A California pinot gris worth $29? Believe it, when we’re talking about one from the estimable winery run by SinskeyMr. Robert Sinskey. The 2012 Robert Sinskey Los Carneros Pinot Gris starts lean before layers of citrus and stone fruit perform a pas de deux on the palate. This is an unusually intense white that rewards savoring; the alluring white flowers and Meyer lemon aromas make that task a good bit easier. Most any salad will cozy right up to this beauty, as will grilled shrimp and other shellfish. The soundtrack: Cat Stevens’ intense but charming masterpiece “Tea for the Tillerman.”

 

6
Sep
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 25-31

Everyday: Gascony is best known as the home of “The Three Musketeers,” but at my house it’s also regarded as a fantastic place to find wine bargains, Pouyespecially on the white side. Made with the colombard and ugni blanc grapes that are part and parcel of Cognac and Armagnac, the 2013 Domaine de Pouy Côtes de Gascone ($10) is lean and clean on the nose and palate, a fairly straightforward but eminently tasty wine with a round but firm mouthfeel and a focused, long finish. It’s got the fruit/minerality/acidity thing nailed, with enough of the latter to be a grand pairing for oysters. Or most any other seafood, not to mention summer salads and fried chicken. Complementary tuneage for this stone-cold delight: Los Lobos’ super-tasty “Kiko” album.

Occasion: Just because grilling season might be waning (except, of course, for tailgaters) doesn’t mean that char- and spice-happy zinfandels are fading with it. Rodney StrongThe 2012 Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Northern Sonoma Zinfandel ($20) is the kind of zin that can do double duty, melding beautifully with baby backs and brats, but also with roasted and braised meats and veggies of the cooler seasons. This semi-hefty beauty is a deep, dark offering with more than a little cocoa and West Indies spice notes and an uncommonly long finish. The rough-and-tumble blues-rock of Benjamin Booker, one of the music world’s rising stars, is a swell soundtrack