19
Jan
2014
0

Recommending The Recommendeuer

Sorry, Dos Equis, but “The Recommendeuer” is indubitably the most interesting man in the world. At least for grape nuts.

The Recommendeuer (a k a Greg Proops, best known as a quip flinger on “Whose Line is It Anyway?”), might not be as breezy-cool as the beer pitchman. But he’s infinitely more entertaining and edifying. Plus I really like the cut of his gib: plaid Recommendeuersuit, horn-rim specs and pink hanky.

Billed as “a professional recommender and know-it-all expert on the Washington State wine industry,” the character is serious about wine but doesn’t take himself too seriously. Except when he does.

The Recommendeuer is willing to play straight man to Ricky the Raccoon but also able to delve deeply into appellations and grapes, geology and meteorology, viticulture and viniculture. I learned a lot, even though I already knew and loved the wonderful Washington wine scene.

And he’s on Twitter, but of course, (@recommendeuer), sometimes with a drolly written link to a wine map, often with a pithy bromide such as “After much research, I’ve discovered that wine, scientifically, is the actual ‘Chicken Soup for the Soul.’ Those books were dead wrong.”

It’s all part and parcel of a surprisingly — and refreshingly — edgy marketing campaign from the Washington State Wine Commission.

And now, what started as an iPad-only feature — full disclosure: The commission sent me a mini-iPad featuring the app — is available as a free app for mobile phones and for home viewing, via iTunes.

I’m not saying you’ll be converted into a Washington wine fanatic by the Recommendeuer’s wit and wisdom, but you’re likely to be more interested in the scene, and certain to be entertained along the way.

17
Jan
2014
0

Jeffersonian wisdom

Talking about “the founding fathers” has become a cliché and crutch in political circles, especially since their alleged intentions often are used as misbegotten hammers.

But some of those guys were pretty doggone smart. Thomas Jefferson had more to do with bringing wine to this country than any historical figure I know of, and so it’s not surprising Jeffersonthat he had some cool stuff to say about our favorite beverage. To wit:

• “I have lived temperately, eating little animal food.  Vegetables constitute my principal diet.  I double, however, the doctor’s glass and a half of wine, and even treble it with a friend.”

• “We could in the United States make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kinds, but doubtless as good.”

• “By making this wine vine known to the public, I have rendered my country as great a service as if I had enabled it to pay back the national debt.”

 

14
Jan
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Jan. 13-19

Everyday: Whenever someone asks about finding an inexpensive Sancerre, I send them away. Away from Sancerre, that is, to Du Rinnearby Touraine. Every vintage I’ve had of the Jousselin et Fils Domaine du Rin du Bois Touraine Sauvignon ($11) has ben flat-out delicious, and for half the price of even the cheapest Sancerres. It’s got great lemon-lime flavors, beautiful harmony and surprising length. This firm and focused white shines by itself as an aperitif but also would sing with any lighter seafood offering, and will stand right up to a platter of fresh oysters.

Occasion: They’re still figuring out what grapes do best in many parts of Washington, but someone 12 Barbera Fronthas sure found a swell site for, of all things, barbera. The 2012 Saviah Walla Walla Valley Dugger Creek Vineyard Barbera ($30) throws gobs of tasty red fruit and a bit of tingly spices at you right away, but there’s plenty of structure in the middle and end. It’s riper than most renditions from Piedmont, but is that such a bad thing? Certainly not when there’s this much depth of flavor and such an oomph-y finish. Bring out the roast chicken (or other fowl) or roasted root veggies.

13
Jan
2014
0

Sweet not-so-little $18

Numbers can be fun, and they can be weird, and they can be both. My way better half often glances at digital clocks when it’s 1:11 p.m. or a.m. And lately it seems as though every time, or at least every other time, I go to look up the price of a wine I really like, it’s $18.

Not $15 or $20. $18. It happened met recently with the outlandishly good Soter Vineyard North Valley Compass Cuvee. Just since July, my “everyday” Wines of the Week have included these $18 gems (average at wine-searcher, so your price might Dragondiffer): Tami Grillo, La Crema Pinot Gris, Domaine Dragon Rosé, Gavalas Santorini, Li Veri Salento Negroamara Riserva and Oddero Barbera d’Alba. And countless wines that I’ve recommended in my Sunday “Wine Deal” in the Star Tribune hit that mark.

Now granted, to many folks, $18 is not a suitable price for an “everyday” wine or for a “Wine Deal.” But in both of those cases, I’m looking for the absolute best under-$20 wines that I have sampled — and I sample thousands of wines a year. So it shouldn’t be a big surprise that a lot of them nudge right up against the $20 cap.

They are, frankly, good enough to be “occasion” wines, but $20 is the line of demarcation I’ve set. The New York Times’ estimable Eric Asimov has for a while been touting $20 as his “sweet spot,” the ideal place to explore and discover intriguing stuff. I could write that off to Big Apple inflation, but it’s probably more the availability of more swell imported wines that don’t reach Tundraland.

And make no mistake, these are “deals,” major or often screamin’ bargains in terms of quality-price ratio. With the under-$10 category packed with OK but very rarely distinctive wines, the “sweet spot” for consumers has been $12 to $18 for some time now. One positive result of the downturn was that a lot of wineries punched down the prices of $25 wines to the teens.

For years, gruner veltliner fans talked about how “you get what you pay for” with that varietal. I would hold that that’s true in the entire wine world. Except when it isn’t: Some stuff still is overpriced, often massively so. I’m seeking out, and passing along, what I consider to be underpriced, often massively so.

And quite often, it seems, they cost about $18.

11
Jan
2014
0

Linkin’ logs: 1-11-14

This week at Linkin’ Memorial High, we’re map-happy, thanks to the nation’s two major wine glossies, and a bit slap-happy, thanks to an over-reaching vessel idea. But we start with some real news:

• Three guesses as to what grape cabernet sauvignon just supplanted as the most widely grown one in the world. Airen 2Actually, 300 guesses might not suffice. It’s pictured at left and is a homonym for baseball’s career home-run king, pre-Barry Bonds.

• OK, on to the geography, parts one and two. From the Wine Enthusiast comes a handy-dandy U.S. map in which a click-through displays each state’s wine shipping laws. Rival Wine Spectator chimes in toward the bottom of a Tim Fish post with a chart mapping out what our drinking preferences might indicate about our political leanings.

• Finally, the week’s most flabbergasting press release came from the folks at Riedel, who make stellar glassware but clearly are getting bored. They’ve come out with a special glass for Coca-Cola (!). Which costs $19.30 (!!!). As my friend Rolf waggishly wondered, how soon before they come out with a glass for the kalimotxo?

10
Jan
2014
0

Greek geeks, vinous division

Modern-day Greece is an emerging force in the wine world, but a few millennia ago, the Greeks set the standard not only for making it but writing about it. To wit:

• “Bring water, bring wine, boy! Bring flowering garlands to me! Yes, bring them, so that I may try a bout with love.” – Anacreon

Euripedes• “Where there is no wine, there is no love.” – Euripides (left)

• “The peoples of the Mediterranean began to emerge from barbarism when they learnt to cultivate the olive and the vine.” – Thucydides

• “Wine is an appropriate article for mankind, both for the healthy body and for the ailing man.”  – Hippocrates

• “When a man drinks wine at dinner, he begins to be better pleased with himself.” – Plato

 

8
Jan
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Jan. 6-12

Everyday:  It sometimes seems incongruous to me that when our abodes and skin are Bilbaobone-dry for months on end up here in Tundraland, we lean toward dry red wines. The 2009 Ramon Bilbao Limited Edition Rioja ($16) is just such a dusty critter, especially on the long finish. But there’s plenty of dark-berry juiciness in this Spanish stalwart, along with some meaty notes and a hint of coffee. Try it with roasted meats or fowl, or some spicy sausage, either on its own or starring in a pasta sauce.

Occasion: The San Francisco Chronicle’s Jon Bonné nailed it this week when he Matthiasson Whitenamed Steve Matthiasson the newspaper’s winemaker of the year. The man’s fab efforts start with a magical blend, the 2011 Matthiasson Napa Valley White ($35). A paragon of harmony (is “perfect acidity” too geeky an assessment?), it’s firm but layered and night onto endless. Countless types of fruit pop up — apple here, pear there, tropical fruits comin’ on strong — making it mighty tempting to make a liquid meal out of this admixture of sauvignon blanc, ribolla gialla, semillon and fruilano. Otherwise, try it with chicken or fish made in a Mediterranean, South American or Asian style. Yum.

7
Jan
2014
0

Drew is well situated out on the edge

Jason Drew is out there. Really out there.

Not in terms of personality. With short-cropped auburn hair, soft-spoken demeanor and mud-crusted jeans and boots, the proprietor of Drew Family Cellars looks like a Jason Drewgentleman farmer straight out of Central Casting.

But geographically, well, he’s growing grapes on the westernmost site in Mendocino County — a winding 30-minute drive from Boonville, with nothing around that says “this is wine country” — and probably the coolest.

“We’re right on the edge, 60s and low 70s in the summer,” Drew said. “It was a leap of faith being this close to the ocean [he can glimpse the Pacific 1,250 feet below, 3.3 miles away]. But the soil was excellent, and it’s cooling above the fog line [800 feet]. There are no frost issues, and we get a lot of rain, which helps us dry-farm.

“Overall, the climate, the soil was just what we wanted.”

The soil is ancient ocean floor pushed up through tectonic plates, Drew said, “shale, jasper, metamorphic stuff, lots of iron.”

Oh, and the land, now called Field Station Ranch Vineyard, already was certified organic, as an apple farm, when Jason and Molly Drew bought it. (There’s still part of that orchard adjacent to the vineyard.

In such a cool climate, Drew said, “the main concern is getting yields. We hope for one and a half tons, maybe two tons an acre.”

This is, of course, pinot noir country. But that’s not all. “The pinot noir is so well-suited for here, that’s one reason I’m trying syrah,” he said. “Pinot noir is a good challenge; you never get bored. Syrah is a little more forgiving, so starting syrah made sense.”

PerliAh, cool-weather syrah. The 2011 Perli Vineyard Syrah we sampled was almost feral, with game and brine and mineral fighting for prominence, an indelible experience. Drew also makes profound pinots (from Weir and Morning Dew Vineyards), a juicy, layered-as-all-get-out albariño and killer Vin Gris.

All of these wines currently come from other sites, because the vines at his farm near something called Elk, Calif., are only a few years old.

But the winemaking skills arrived with Drew, who worked at wineries in Australia, Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and the Central Coast, all the while learning from the likes of master vintners Cathy Corison, John Kongsgaard and Brian Babcock.

The biggest influence? “It’s an accumulation of experiences, drawn from all of them,” Drew said.

Aw, c’mon, surely somebody … “Well, John Kongsgaard basically convinced me that native fermentation is just a natural, the purest way to go,” said Drew, adding that he got a side lesson in fearlessness. “A couple of times the wine stuck, and he’d go, ‘Oh, that’s normal.’ ”

So Drew now goes with native yeasts, and said he also tries to keep all his wines under 14-percent alcohol.

Still, he is quick to add that “I like not having rules etched in stone.” When he’s concerned about structure, he’ll go with more whole-cluster fermentation, and when he wants more extraction, he’ll do a whole lotta punchdowns. No such concerns with the 2012 vintage, which, Drew said, “gave you everything: purity, structure, complexity.”

Can’t wait to get my grubby little paws on some of those.

5
Jan
2014
0

Gleanings: 1-5-14

“He’s made the last turn, and he’s headed home” … in non-horse-racing parlance, I’m in the stretch run of a massive fortnight tasting run, going from about 150 samples on hand to about a dozen, not counting the Ports that have been gathering dust for a year or three. And now I have a gameplan for the Ports. This and other recent tasting gleanings:

• We had a boys’ Zin Night last night, and despite two tragically corked wines (a Turley Hayne and Carlisle Pietro’s Ranch), a Zinsgreat time was had by all. One of the surprising takeaways came from the incredible Carlisle Pietro’s Ranch that wasn’t corked, a 2006. It was beauteous, pure, expressive and utterly harmonious. I gingerly checked the alcohol: 16.1 percent. This stunned everyone, simply because there was nothing that remotely hinted that this wine had high alcohol. But it’s more evidence of something I’ve always believed, that what matters is balance, and that eliminating high-alcohol wines from one’s world is punishing only one’s self.

• On the other hand, I did have a slightly enlarged noggin this morning, which probably had as much to do with the volume I consumed as the alcohol content (a couple of the Turleys also were 16-plus). It was a reminder, though, to always have Zin Nights when the next morning does not involve going to work.

• One thing I noticed, partially because Carlisles and Turley dominated the offerings, was the recognition of a “house style,” particularly with the Turleys. Despite coming from distant and distinctive locales, they had the same kind of minerality in terms of flavor and volume. That brought to mind some great advice I had received earlier in the day from Ryan Opaz, proprietor of the fabulous Catavino website. The Minnesota native is now based in Portugal, and I told him that I had let Port samples stack up because I was baffled as to how to fairly assess them. He suggested doing it over the course of a couple of weeks, a sip of each every few days. At a certain point, he said, “house styles” and the distinctions between vintage and late-harvest bottlings might well become clear. Can’t wait to implement, beginning this week.

• I worked my way through a dozen California chardonnays a few nights earlier, and as happened a month or so ago, I Ca' Momiwas struck with how un-oaky and un-buttery most of them were. As I assessed offerings from Ca’ Momi, William Hill, Sequoia Grove and other, the words “clean” and “pure” showed up a lot. A most welcome trend.

• More recently, Napa cabs were the order of the day, and many were jammy at first and then kinda stopped. (It should be noted that they were from the difficult 2010 and ’11 vintages, and many were quite good, if generally overpriced.) Anyway, with one of those drop-off-the-table-in-midpalate wines, my eloquent friend Leo blurted out: “It turns into water.” Nailed it! I have labeled this the Anti-J Man Syndrome, since it reverses perhaps my favorite miracle in the saga of Jesus.

• Finally, at another gathering of friends, somebody was talking about varietals, and said “I like syrah, but pinot noir is more about how I want to live my life.” I’m not sure exactly what he meant — the unpredictability of pinots, or maybe the earthy essence? — but I like it.