26
Jul
2013
0

Winston’s good taste

For obvious reasons, I can completely identify with burly bald guys who love Champagne. Like Winston Churchill, who had this to say about those sparkling delights:

• “A single glass of Champagne imparts a feeling of exhilaration. The nerves are braced, the Winstonimagination is agreeably stirred; the wits become more nimble. A bottle produces the contrary effect. Excess causes a comatose insensibility. So it is with war: and the quality of both is best discovered by sipping.”

• “Meeting Franklin Roosevelt was like opening your first bottle of Champagne; knowing him was like drinking it. 

• During World War I: “Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!”

• “We lived very simply — but with all the essentials of life well understood and provided for — hot baths, cold Champagne, new peas and old brandy.”

• “Champagne should be dry, cold, and free.”

• “In success you deserve it, and in defeat you need it.”

• “Champagne is the wine of civilisation and the oil of government.”

And here’s the ever-witty world leader in other imbibing endeavors:

Braddock• “Madame, I may be drunk, but you are ugly, and tomorrow I will be sober” – reportedly said in the House of Commons to Labour MP Bessie Braddock (left)

• “I have taken more out of alcohol than alcohol has taken out of me.”

• “Dinner would have been splendid…if the wine had been as cold as the soup, the beef as rare as the service, the brandy as old as the fish, and the maid as willing as the Duchess.”

25
Jul
2013
0

Wines of the Week: July 22-28

Everyday: It’s getting harder every year to choose my favorite rosé of the summer. But Dragonit’s easy to award bonus points to a perennially swell bottling that kicks it up several notches. Like the 2012 Domaine du Dragon Cotes de Provence Cuvee Prestige Rosé ($17), which commences with a vibrant citrusy, spicy nose and then sends an array of red fruit across the palate. And what a clean, refreshing finish, the very definition of mouth-watering goodness. The other day, this played deftly with Wagyu tenderloin and Nicoise salad, so I’m hard-pressed to eliminate any pairing possibility.

Occasion: Here’s a quandary. This space always touts an over-$20 wine, but while the local retail Gavalasprice is $24, Wine Searcher indicates an average tariff of $17. No matter: The 2010 Gavalas Santorini is definitely a wine for any occasion, especially a nice one in summer. I have never been to Santorini (dagnabit!), but this lush, slate-like assyrtiko (with 10 percent aidani) makes it easy to visualize being there. Ripe and rich and sunny, with beams of tropical and citrus fruit, it has one of the longest finishes of any white I’ve tasted this year. Grilled seafood, lemon-oregano chicken and other traditional Greek dishes are ideal companions. Now I just need to find a way to enjoy it in its homeland.

 

23
Jul
2013
0

All too rare grapes: expressive, distinctive, delicious

You needn’t have visited this site much to notice my ardor for varieties that are considered “secondary” in the wine world’s weird pecking order.

I’m a huge fan of cabernet and sundry expressions of Burgundy’s grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir. Riesling often makes me swoon like a lovesick swain.

But I take special delight in exploring and enjoying trousseau and fiano, sagrantino and assyrtiko, negroamaro and verdejo, plus scores of grapes that don’t end with an Angela“o” sound. I am not a member of the Century Club, but I have long since surpassed eligibility standards. Blessedly, I have quite a few friends who share this vinous wanderlust at least this much (left).

Even more fortuitously, more and more California vintners are delving into this territory, and more and more renditions are arriving from regions in which they have long been known to thrive. Out west, some of these folks have organized a bit and even held gatherings under the “7 Percent Solution” banner (showcasing varieties other than the seven grapes that make up 93 percent of California plantings.

So, determined not to wait the usual two-plus years for a coastal trend to reach the Scholiumhinterlands, several of us gathered at my friends Jason and Angela’s house to sample wines from Massican, Arnot-Roberts, the Scholium Project, Turley and a few European offerings from those who had no domestic examples.

And, well, wow. Not every wine knocked it out of the park, but all were well made and interesting. Some were revelations (the Foley charbono with Jason’s fantastic mixed grill, a Yalumba Wrattonbully Botrytis Viognier with Angela’s epic homemade strawberry ice cream).

In fact, as my friend Lonny noted, “they all seemed to be great wines with food, something that over-the-top chards and big grapefruity/grassy sauv blancs struggle to do.”

For Lonny, the wine of the night was the Masssican Annia blend, and immodesty Massican 2allows me to agree even though I had brought the wine (and ordered several more the next day). It embodied what the night was all about: expressive and distinctive wines that also taste pretty damn swell.

At a couple of points I asked some of the group whether these wines would seem so special if we drank them as often as we do the “93 percent grapes.” No one had a firm response, probably because it is unknowable and thus a dumb question.

But as usual, my friend Joe had the best take: “What I do know is that these are wines produced by people who are more about passion than profit and chosen by wine lovers. And oh, that ice cream!”

Solution

 

21
Jul
2013
0

Wines of the Week: July 15-21

Everyday: The notion that Beaujolais could serve as a harbinger for that year’s Elk Cove 2Burgundy vintage has been long discounted. But I’m here to tell you that the 2012 Elk Cove Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosé almost certainly is an indication that Oregon’s 2012 pinots will rock your world (which recent barrel tastings confirm). This is Elk Cove’s best rosé yet, with fresh florals and red fruit ““ not just berries but mostly (yum!) watermelon. And like some of the better Oregon pinot noirs, this refreshing wine doesn’t necessarily try to do or be anything other than a people-pleaser. Try it with all manner of seafood (even salmon) or similarly crisp summer salads.

Occasion: My fondest hope for California is that it will vastly expand its grape repertoire, find places where less-known grapes can shine. Spectacular wines like Massican 2the 2012 Massican Annia show what can be done when someone like the recently deceased George Vare plants ribolla gialla smack dab in the middle of cabernet country in Napa, and what a gifted vintner like Dan Petroski can do with it. Another grape associated with northern Italy, tocai friulano, makes up 36 percent of this wine and chardonnay 18 percent to go with the 46 percent of ribolla gialla. Another welcome number: 12.7 percent alcohol. This blend is rich but refreshing, with layers of varying fruits and textures and a ridiculously long finish. End result: my favorite California white so far this year and worth buying direct from the winery. It’s got the body to play well with grilled pork tenderloin and the finesse to pair beautifully with seafood cocktail or soup.

 

 

 

18
Jul
2013
0

Linkin’ Logs 7-18-13

Scrollin’, scrollin’, scrollin’, keep that ADD rollin’, through my boss’ scoldin’, raw links!

Labels• Given the affiliation with Wind Gap, I’m guessing the Jolie-Laide wines are really good. But many of us would buy them for the labels.

• Given how much I’d love to travel all over Europe, I should do one of these for wine.

• Apparently there are quite a few takes on Robin Thicke’s “Blurred Lines”; all I know is that this one is an absolute hoot. John Jordan and Brent Young might just have on-screen futures beyond YouTube. I was thinking, though, that it would have been nice for Jordan to channel Psy just a wee more, but then I discovered that he already had done it.

• I’ve seen some really cool things made out of a buttload of corks. But this stool is not one of them:

Cork seat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

• Finally there’s this poster. H/T to Jon Thorsen, a k a “The Reverse Wine Snob.

Men & Wine

 

18
Jul
2013
0

Bard-acious

I never have “gotten” Shakespeare. Clearly he was a gifted writer, but something (rhythm? tone? language?) just kept me from becoming a devotee.

But the man did like his wine, or at least using it in his work. To wit:

Shakespeare“O nectar, a poetry profound,
a liquid fair and hedonistic,
a drink meant truly not for mortals
but the gods of misty yore.
Burdened not by filtering or fining
or such slings and arrows beset by fools.
Get thee to a bottle.”

“The wine-cup is the little silver well, where truth, if truth there be, doth dwell.”

“I am falser than vows made in wine. 

“Come, come, good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used; exclaim no more against it.”

“Give me a bowl of wine. I have not that alacrity of spirit nor cheer of mind that I was wont to have.”

“Give me a bowl of wine. In this I bury all unkindness.”

13
Jul
2013
0

Linkin’ Logs 7-13-13

Usually on “Linkin’ Logs,” we take a drollery-tinged look at what’s circulating on the Web. But this week, some really interesting and substantive stuff has entered our bailiwick. So we’ll start with that before descending ascending to the silly stuff.

Yeast• All the talk we hear about wild yeast making wines better might be misbegotten, a lengthy study indicates.

• The New York Times looked into the proliferation of wineries nationwide and came up with this seriously cool map depicting it.

• The headline says it all: Cola wine is now a thing.

• Several Facebook friends have posted this hilarious video of wine bottle-opening ridiculousness, and it’s easy to see why.

• Finally, the wondrous Julia Child gets credit for a saying that actually was coined by another of my favorite Americans, William Claude Dukenfield (although I have little doubt that Julia also said it):

Julia

13
Jul
2013
0

Wines of the Week: July 8-14

Everyday: You’ll always have me at “Vouvray,” no matter the dry/sweet Vouvraylevel. But finding a fabulous one for $13 is a special treat. The 2010 Domaine de la Racauderie Vouvray boasts a fresh, minerally nose, seriously tasty citrus and stone fruit and a persistence wrought from snappy stony undertones. Grown in the same soil the Gautier family has farmed since the 17th century and aged in the same caves it has used since the early 19th century, this wine speaks a language I love: “Vouvray.” Try it with most any white meat, especially if herbs and/or a creamy sauce are involved.

Occasion: “Wow, that’s really smoky,” my way-better half declared upon Ridgefirst sipping the 2011 Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandel ($30). It took me awhile to get to the smoke because of the waves of jammy, meaty, luscious flavors that were assaulting my palate. But as usual, she was right, as nicely integrated smokiness is among the many attributes of this bold red with just enough soft tannins. I was wishing I had put some bacon on the burgers we were enjoying with this, but it still was a smell match. Smoked meats of any sort and mild/medium-spiced Tex-Mex dishes should mosey right up to it as well.

10
Jul
2013
0

Crispy critters

One of the most fun aspects of having a newspaper column is feedback and requests from readers. Especially challenging ones.

A couple of days ago, I got this email:

“I enjoy your writing [well said, sir!], particularly your wine columns. I would appreciate your help. I drink both red and white wines but favor whites in warm weather. I have Stainlessenjoyed Verdicchio and Sancerre and some unoaked Chards [left]. I am looking for a flinty dry minerally white under $15. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

It took awhile to get back to him, partially because of how I introduce my response but also because I had to pore through some tasting notes and figure out not only what might fit but whether it is available in the Twin Cities. Here it is:

“OK, you’re in a difficult slot because $15-$22 is the real sweet spot for this style: Sancerre, albarino, assyrtikos from Santorini, most Italian whites fit in there.

“But there are options, largely in France. Touraines come from near Sancerre and often get under $15, or at least right there. I like Champteloup, Domaine des Corbillieres (love!), Jean-Francois Merieau Larpent des Vaudone; cheaper still is the Domaine du Rin du Bois.

“Another French option is Picpoul de Pinets; they’re not flinty per se but are lively and Felinesclean; the fruit can have richer layers, but there’s always citrus. And they’re usually closer to $10. Favorites: Domaine Reine Juliet, Gaujal, Felines Jourdan and Foncallieu Cuvee Prestige.

“And of course Muscadets, which are bone-dry. Not sure about the price points but likely possibilities include Chevalier Cotes de Grand Lieu, Domaine Des Cognettes, Pierre de la Grange and the amazing Stephane and Vincent Perraud Clisson.

“Also look for Cotes de Gascogne (brands: Montravet, Domaine de Pouy) and Vin de Savoie (Pierre Boniface, Jean-Pierre et Jean Francoise and Domaine Labbé Abymes).

“In Italy, arrneis and Gavi whites from Piedmont fit your palate but not your budget. Some great whites from elsewhere in Italy that you might find under $15: Argiolis Vermentino, Cusumano Angimbe Insolia, Barone di Valforte Pecorino, Maculan Pino & Toi.

Grooner“I think you’d like the Evolucio furmint from Hungary and the Meinhard Forsteiter ‘Grooner’ from Austria (gruners also tend to be spendier, and the quality rises rapidly, too).

“For Spanish possibilities: go here.”

“But the main advice is to get to know a couple of merchants. I know a lot of savvy ones who are good at tuning in to their customers’ wishes. I can send you to a few (in general, or near where you live) if you’d like.”