9
Jul
2013
0

Gentile Ben

Ben Franklin was/is one of my favorite Americans, for his wisdom and his mischievousness and his love of wine. To wit:

“‘Twas Noah who first planted the vine “¦ and mended his morals by drinking its wine. 

Ben“[God] made wine to gladden the heart of men; do not, therefore, when at table you see your neighbor pour wine into his glass, be eager to mingle water with it. Why would you drown truth? Man … is framed in a manner that he may raise his glass to his mouth … Let us, then, with glass in hand, adore this benevolent wisdom; let us adore and drink!”

“Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance.”

“There cannot be good living where there is not good drinking.”

“The discovery of a wine is of greater moment than the discovery of a constellation. The universe is too full of stars. 

8
Jul
2013
0

Assessing a double dose of Italian wines

The theme on Saturday was Italy, early and often. I spent the morning sampling a buttload of Tuscan wines and the evening with some fellow cork dorks at an Italian wine dinner (with a major nap in between).

Both were fascinating exercises, with a few dandy discoveries and a revelation of sorts. And a whole new approach to sampling.

CasesI get several cases of samples a month, more in the spring and fall, less (meaning 3-4 cases a month) in summer and winter. My M.O. had been to go at six to 12 bottles in the evening, a couple of times a week. But the combination of a hard day’s work and the sampling (more chore-laden than you might think) often leaves me spent, kinda fried for the rest of the night.

I had noticed while judging at competitions that my palate was sharper in the morning, and had often worked through 60 wines in a morning (and remained standing). Voila: I’m now going to spend two weekend days a month sampling 25 or more wines in the morning and leave time for a nap, and my weeknights will be decidedly more enjoyable.

Saturday was Round 1, starting with 17 wines from Tuscany, followed by four from Veneto and six sundry whites. There were a few standouts, including a reigning Wine of the Week, but more noteworthy was that there were no clunkers.

Tuscan reds from Tenuta Di Arceno, Badia a Coltibuono, Banfi, Da Vinci and Piccini were all solid efforts, and there were some great values: 2011 Cecchi “Natio” Chianti and Bibi Graetz “Casamatta” and the 2010 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Vendamia.

AglianicoThen at my friend Reid’s house, reds from all over Italy generally delighted us, but few thrilled us. The first flight was a pair of fascinating and flavorful aglianicos (left), from Coste and Terra di Lavoro. After subsequent Brunellos, Barbarescos and Barolos, my friend Ken proved his usual incisive self with this assessment: “We had the aglianicos, and then it didn’t go uphill from there.”

My favorite Italian red probably was the Il Caberlot blend, but my wine of the night actually was a riesling from G.D. Vajra, a scintillating, bracing glassful of purity and depth.

Having a lot of really good wines in a variety of styles (Old and New World, rustic and spoofulated) was rewarding but hard to synopsize. It all got me to thinking about my late-1970s years in Italy, when store-bought wines were almost universally crappy, but also about baseball prospects.

I’ve always loved following the up-and-coming players, from can’t-miss sorts like Byron Buxton to the promising but imperfect sorts. Some of my favorite writes in recent years have taken to assessing these prospects in terms not only of their ultimate potential but also the worst-case (non-injury-related) scenario. The terms they use: “ceiling” and “floor.”

So there you have it in terms of Italian reds circa 2013: The ceiling remains Chiantilofty, but the floor is much higher than ever. That reflects my experiences not only yesterday but in recent years. The reliability factor is strong.

And that’s saying something, especially for those of us who slogged through years of plonkish Chianti in bottles with those straw-covered bottoms that bear an insanely appropriate name: fiascos.

7
Jul
2013
0

Wines of the Week: July 1-7

Everyday: If I had a nickel for every time I’ve heard someone declare “I Clean Slatedon’t like sweet wines,” I’d at the very least have a boatload of nickels. Thing is, most of these folks should just pluck down 10 bucks for the 2012 Clean Slate Mosel Riesling, then see how they feel. With an array of juicy fruit flavors (tropical, citrus, major peachiness), this off-dry gem starts and finishes strong. It also lives up to the name, with a clean glide across the palate undergirded by slate-like minerality. Try it with most any Thai, Indian or Vietnamese dishes. But do try it, especially if you “don’t like” the sweet stuff.

Occasion: I’m definitely partial to the Chiantis that come from the Rufina Selvapianasubregion, which tend to be dark yet soft, smooth yet vibrant. The 2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale is an exemplary rendition, with yummy black-pepper-infused berry flavors and a sensuous midpalate feel, hanging around for an almost limitless finish. It might not transport you to Tuscany, but you can see it from there. It was delicious last night with applewood-grilled chicken and also would play beautifully with Tuscan staples from tomato sauce to porketta to bistecca fiorentina.

6
Jul
2013
0

Will.I.Amette

As if there was not already enough to like about Oregon’s Wine Country, my buddy Joe and I discovered perhaps America’s best strawberries.

“Fruit,” said our friend Deb Mortimer over dinner on the ridiculously Bistroswell patio at McMinnville’s Bistro Maison (left), “likes growing out here.”

That includes grapes, although on our last visit the peaches also proved the best we had sampled on these shores. And it certainly includes the grapes at Le Cadeau, owned by Minnesota transplants Deb and her husband Tom.

The next morning, Joe and I became the first customers to darken the doors of Le Cadeau’s new tasting room in a gorgeous building in Dundee. The 2010 Rocheaux and Merci Reserve were drinking beautifully, with the promise of even more wondrousness to come.

That capped a 2 3/4-day whirlwind that launched with a bacchanalian night that left us “sluggish” (our agreed-upon characterization) the next morning and included our first encounter with disgorgement/dosage, two dinners with wonderful friends and several hours apiece with four fabulous vintners.

JoeIn other words, my kinda trip ““ and the two ensuing days in Portland (left; and yes, that’s Chablis, but hey, it’s Dauvissat), with a visit to a superb urban winery, did not suck.

We had set out to try to discern distinctive traits of the Willamette Valley’s AVAs, to see what was going on with white wines out there, to soak in knowledge from vintners we admired mightily, to see how the highly touted 2012 vintage was faring and to eat and drink to our palates’ content. Mission accomplished on all fronts.

Among the highlights:

• Neither a picture nor a thousand words could do justice to what Joe and I agreed was the coolest vineyard we’d ever trod upon (take that, La Tache!): Roco’s Wit’s End, in a remote corner of the Chehalem Mountains area. What made it special was not the vigorous vines or the sublime soil or the ideal exposure, but just the way it felt. That of course made the wine that we later sipped from that locale taste even more spectacular.

• Doug Tunnell is the most down-to-earth former network correspondent you would ever want to meet. The Brick House owner/winemaker talked plainly but eloquently about the amazing site his winery occupies in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. His 2011 “Evelyn’s” showed again why it’s probably my favorite American pinot. During our two hours together, there was no mention of his years intoning “This is Doug Tunnell, CBS News, from Paris” and throwing it back to Walter Cronkite.

• These people work hard. Tom Mortimer and Raptor Ridge owner/winemaker Scott Shull have fulltime day jobs, which might explain why the latter says “there’s nothing like spending 8 hours on the tractor.”

• The white wines were widely varying in style but not in quality. Tunnell’s Evelynchard (our sample bottle had a “mistake” double label) was an alternately voluptuous and steely delight; you could see Meursault from there. Crowley’s chardonnay was more Chablis-like, intense but delicate. Bethel Heights’ gewürztraminer, St. Innocent’s pinot blanc and Raptor Ridge’s gruner veltliner left vivid, vibrant impressions, and the Evesham Wood pinot-gris/gewurz blend called “Blanc du Puits Sec” was a sublime offering.

• Thomas pinot noir deserves its status as a cult wine. We had two bottles of the 2010 thanks to Janie Brooks of Brooks Wines (which we regrettably didn’t get time to visit), and it was that nector-of-the-gods stuff that makes it clear why so many of us fall hard for pinot noir. Earthy, ethereal, endless, harmonious. We also had an ’07 with the Mortimers, and it was another “wow” effort. In fact, that famously slammed vintage is showing beautifully; we also loved an ’07 from Stephenson-Barrie.

• Not only is it tough to tightly characterize elements of different AVAs’ pinot noirs; it’s tough to even do that for a single vineyard. Bethel Heights Betheland St. Innocent both make super pinot from the Justice Vineyard, but good luck identifying both as being from the same site. At Bethel Heights (left), the 2011 is massive, almost monolithic, but seriously promising. St. Innocent’s ’11 was more feminine, or at least androgynous, and rivaled the Momtazi as my favorite of Mark Vlossak’s single-vineyard bottlings.

• The 2012 pinots are as good as advertised. In general, our barrel tastings showed fabulous fruit and formidable structure, meaning they likely will age for a decade or more ““ on the off chance we can keep our grubby little paws off of them for that long. It’s a buy-by-the-case vintage.

And Willamette is a visit-as-often-as-you-can destination.

26
Jun
2013
0

Well versed

Wine is bottled poetry, Robert Louis Stevenson said. And so of course poets have been writing paeans for eons. A few faves:

Ovid• “When there is plenty of wine, sorrow and worry take wing.” ““ Ovid (left)

• “Give me books, French wine, fruit, fine weather and a little music played out of doors by somebody I do not know.” ““ John Keats

• “Wine cheers the sad, revives the old, inspires the young, makes weariness forget his toil. ““ Lord Byron

• “his lips drink water, but his heart drinks wine” ““ e.e. cummings

26
Jun
2013
0

Wines of the Week: June 24-30

Everyday: Italian whites are just flat-out rockin’ these days, and one of the best I’ve tasted is Casamattathe 2011 Bibi Graetz Casamatta Bianco ($15). This is harmony in a glass, with brilliant fruit, minty elements and beams of minerally goodness dancing deftly together. There’s surprising richness and length, too. Graetz makes cult wines at his family estate just north of Florence, but this delicious white (90 percent vermentino and 10 percent moscato) is sourced from all over Tucany Bianco. Try it with picnic or patio food of all sorts. Along with the label, the name is pretty cool: Casamatta is Italian for “crazy house. 

Occasion: I am a longtime fan of the Rocca Family Syrah, and so it makes sense that the Rocca 22009 Rocca Grigsby Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) would be pretty doggone supercalifragilisticexpialidocious. Bold and hearty, with firm, ripe tannins and gobs of tasty dark fruit, this is quintessential Napa cab. The spicy, supple finish goes on forever, and just the right amount of acidity keeps this big red from getting too dense. A nice, aged slab o’ beef, grilled till charred but still juicy, beckons.

23
Jun
2013
0

Wines of the Week: June 17-23

Everyday: I wouldn’t trade being a wine writer for anything, but sometimes it is a job. As Joe'swhen I recently sampled discount-store brands for a Strib article. Amidst rampant kissing of frogs, I found one particular delight: the 2012 Trader Joe’s California Sauvignon Blanc for 6 freaking dollars. Juicy and tasty, this is quintessential California juice, with gobs of green (lime/kiwi) fruit, a semi-sexy mouthfeel and a nice refreshing finish. Trot out some soft cheese or fish tacos for this lively lad. I can’t vouch for other designations of Trader Joe’s sauv blanc such as the Coastal, but this one is worth buying by the case.

Occasion: Many wine folks in my purview would never consider anything pink a suitable Tempier“occasion” wine. I’m guessing they never have been fortunate enough to sample the Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé ($36). We recently had the 2010 and 2012 with dinner, and both were exemplary: firm and flavorful, with fabulous fruit (mostly dark berries), medium body and a boundlessly delicious finish. Like all great French rosés, this one pairs well with almost everything, from fried or grilled chicken to burgers and brats to strawberries dotted with balsamic.

16
Jun
2013
0

Stefano Inama: Utterly Italian, except when he’s not

Stefano Inama could not be more Italian. He dresses smartly, rhapsodizes about “the Italian sky,” laments flamboyance in others and not-so-furtively follows the gait of a curvy Dressblonde in a bright polka-dot dress until she turns a corner.

“I like the color of the dress,” he explained with a smile. “It is an excellent dress, a beautifully shaped dress. 

So it seems more than a little incongruous when this quintessential Italian starts defining terroir and gushing over a French grape and its role in resuscitating his then-downtrodden region. But is there anything more Italian than being passionate, opinionated and unpredictable? Like when he talks about his initiation into the wine business at age 30 (he had been a scientist):

“I started with sauvignon blanc, about 200 bottles, and hoped that people like it,” he said over lunch in Minneapolis, “and if not I have a big perk for my friends: We can get drunk. People would go, “˜are you crazy? No one will buy sauvignon blanc from here.’ But my father said “˜I love Pouilly-Fumé.’

“We thought it would be good, but we never imagined it would be this good. We had no idea Trojan IIon the adaptation of the vines there. In the beginning it was a nightmare. But it turned out very good. And it became the head of a horse of Troy. When people would like it and I would say ‘have you tried my Soave?’ The name Soave was completely devastated at that time. 

During that time, Inama came to recognize that the term used by vintners in Italy’s western neighbor to define wine is not just about sun and soil.

“An essential part of terroir is the human being. It’s 50 percent,” he said. “A large majority of producers are shitty chefs. You need to know the soil, you need to know the season, you need to know the attitude of the grapes. 

And yes, he mentioned the soil, which many consider the key part of this whole terroir Inamathing, and in the process posited a big difference between two nations’ wines.

“Acidity is France. Minerality is Italy,” Inama said. When asked if minerality in wine really does come from the soil (a current point of heated debate in the blogosphere), Inama held firm. “Of course it does. It’s what the root of the plant is growing in. Basalt is very hard, very difficult to break through. Over millions of years it breaks down and you get sulfur, copper, iron, magnesium, also petrified shells. It’s not a belief; I am a scientist. 

The Soave Classico region has this soil but not the non-Classico area. “Classico is an ancestral wine,” Inama said. “This was a Roman area. They planted 10,000 hectares. In the 1970s because of big demand they expanded into the hills for the Soave DOC. Classico is 100-percent volcanic; the other is alluvial. It was not Bolla; it was the co-ops. Ninety percent of Soave is co-ops. “¦ There’s still too much shitty Soave on the market. 

VignetoCertainly Inama’s wines reflect that soil. The $16 Soave Classico has a touch of sweetness with a lovely jolt of late acidity; the $28 Inama Soave Classico Superiore Vigneto Du Lot (which changes color every year, Stefano said) is rife with wet stone undergirding fabulous Meyer lemon flavors. The sauvignon blanc, alas, sells out in Italy and doesn’t make it across the pond.

The three reds also reflect the turf from which they come and have great depth, structure and length: the $17 carmenere-based “Piu Plus,” the $30 cab-carmenere blend Brandisismo and the $41 Binomio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (“my wine with sheep,” Inama said).

Inama is a bit of a pioneer with the carmenere in Italy. “I planted it and tried to register as carmenere and wanted to sell it as carmenere,” he recounted, “but the government said no in 2005 because by law, carmenere doesn’t exist. So we say I invented it. 

Of course, the most renowned red wine from Inama’s neck of the woods is amarone ““ and he’s having none of it. “I’ll never make an amarone in my life. It’s too easy to make money. Life is supposed to be difficult. 

And while he maintained that “our goal is to have the winery empty at the end of the year and we are very happy,” Inama said that money is not the object, at least for him.

“If you’re into money, you should leave wine alone. If quality of life is less important than your bank account, you should run away. I make a good salary, meet great people, travel a lot “¦”

Spoken like a true Italian.

15
Jun
2013
0

Linkin’ logs: 6-15-13

Who can resist a story about the “10 most expensive drinks in the world”? Especially when one is rewarded with such phrases as “an astounding 100 points from Robert Parker” and a description of a Champagne that includes the grapes “pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, blanc de blancs and rosé.”

Yes, it’s been a good week for wine flubs on the old Intertubes, including a story about 001D5729retiring Yankees star Mariano Rivera receiving a “cabernet sauvignon blanc” as a retirement gift from the Oakland A’s. Personally, I think they should have opted for a cabernet sauvignon blanc-du-pape.

It’s also been a good week for those of us who, as my droll daughter-in-law puts it, “like the drink.” First came a list of reasons why smart kids grow up to fit that mold, and then the revelation that sipping Champagne might improve our spatial memory. Cin cin!

And speaking of smarts, here’s an interesting take on whether to sniff a cork at restaurants.