26
May
2013
0

Wowla Wowla

I am bummed. I really really wanted to Walla Walla this year and (finally) visit some of my favorite wineries and discover some new favorites. But I just can’t make it happen until 2014.

Fortunately, Washington has come to me in a couple of cases, with a visit from the inimitable Charles Smith and an amazing trade tasting. And while pinot gris/grigio from Boomtown, Canoe Ridge and the aforementioned Mr. Smith showed how promising that grape is in the Evergreen State, it was the reds that dazzled.

Starting with a winery that was new to me. The 2007 Corliss Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) was large and in charge from the get-go, but it was the marvelously sturdy structure and near-endless finish that wowed and dazzled me most. Corliss’ 2007 Columbia Valley Bordeaux Blend ($65) was every bit its equal, with everything a “big red” should possess, including all of the above plus elegance.

LeonettiThese wines were so profound that they almost overshadowed my first encounter with Leonetti. Almost. The 2010 cab ($90) had gorgeous black fruit and wonderful depth, while the 2010 merlot ($75) was a classic: bold but supple, with multiple layers of flavors and textures.

Mark Ryan was pouring three wines at the event, all dandy. I especially liked the 2010 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($52), rich and rustic, with fruit and earth intermingling endlessly.

Two more wineries introduced themselves in spectacular fashion The 2009 FigginsFiggins Walla Walla Estate Bordeaux Blend ($85) was the very definition of harmony, the firmish tannins integrating beautifully with gobs of delicious dark red fruit.

And perhaps the day’s foremost bargain was another blend, the 2010 Pomum Yakima Valley “Shya” ($38), with hearty dark goodness and lovely minerality. Yum.

I felt fortunate indeed to be able to taste these rockin’ reds. And frustrated that I cannot check out these wineries, and the people behind all this spectacular juice, in person.

Next year for sure.

23
May
2013
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Linkin’ logs: 5-23-13

Spanning the tubes to give you wine-world wise news:

• My friend Reid just put in a fantabulous 800-bottle cellar, much of which he built himself. I probably shouldn’t show him these cellars, lest he get a big ol’ dose of pinot envy.

• There are bad ideas, and then there’s this: smoking alcohol. Yeesh.

• No one likes taxes, but it’s always good to know just how much we’re paying with our purchases. This handy-dandy state-by-state map shows state excise taxes on wine. By far the highest rate is in Kentucky; guessing it’s to make up for what almost certainly are teeny-tiny (nonexistent?) cigarette taxes.

• Per the above item, here are Upper Midwest tax rates for sundry spirits:

Alcohol

 

 

• Finally, the best sign I’ve seen in a good long while:

Alcohol II

 

 

23
May
2013
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Wines of the Week: May 20-26

Everyday: OK, it’s not exactly prime season for petite sirah. But the 2010 Van Ruiten Van RuitenLodi Petite Sirah ($17) is a supercalifragilisticexpialidocious grilling wine, for both the cook and the people enjoying the fruits of his/her labors. It’s got a lot of character for a wine at that price and a super balance of ample dark fruit, savory tannins and mouth-smacking acidity. The spicy notes and plummy flavors mark it as a brilliant match for a rich barbecue sauce slathered over chicken, ribs, sausages, whatever.

Occasion: During the 1990s, when I was focused mostly on weeknight (and priced J. Lohraccordingly) staples, I would buy J. Lohr’s “Riverstone” Monterey Chardonnay by the case. Its delicious array of fruit flavors is echoed “” more like amplified “” in the J. Lohr “October Night” Arroyo Seco Chardonnay ($22). The tropical and stone and citrus notes provide lushness and leanness, and the fruit on the 2011 is perfectly ripe. The finish is vibrant and clean, especially for a Cali chard. Pair it with any salad containing fruit or fowl and milder Indian or Southeast Asian dishes.

20
May
2013
0

That’s the spirit

Nice wine quotes from spiritual leaders:

“If God forbade drinking, would He have made wine so good?” — Cardinal Richelieu

Rumi“There are thousands of wines that can take over our minds. Don’t think all ecstasies are the same.” — Rumi (left)

“Men are like wine — some turn to vinegar, but the best improve with age.” — Pope John XXIII

“Sorrow can be alleviated by good sleep, a bath and a glass of good wine.” — St. Thomas Aquinas

“Beer is made by men, wine by God.” — Martin Luther

“Man often needs wine. It fortifies the delicate stomach, renews one’s strength, heals the body and soul, dispels misery and sadness, refreshes weary souls, provides joy and stimulates conversation among friends” — St. Augustine

19
May
2013
0

Judgment calls

I had a really swell time judging 140-plus wines at last week’s Riverside International Wine Competition. Hard to beat the combination of great people and fascinating wines.

It’s a special treat for me because of the opportunity to sample mostly non-West Coast wines, stuff from the heartland and down in Dixie and the area that we Minnesotans oddly call “out East.” A few nuggets (and lumps of coal) from what I was able to gulp and glean:

Winner: Grapes developed at the University of Minnesota. Many fellow judges pooh-poohed the category “” until I mentioned that these were developed by the same outfit Honeycrispthat concocted the Honeycrisp apple. Its latest new grape, released in 2006, is particularly promising: Marquette garnered a gold (Chankaska Creek Reserve) and three silvers, including a rosé. A La Crescent-based blend from New York’s Coyote Moon Vineyards got a double-gold (unanimous golds from our four-person panel). Alas, my panel mates did not share my ardor for Indian Island‘s La Crescent.

Another bred-in-Minnesota champ: native son Jeff Runquist, whose Runquist Cooper Vineyard Barbera was named best overall red.

Loser: Spendy reds from Long Island. Since I’ve always been a bit flabbergasted by the prices of these wines (or actually the quality-to-price ratio), it’s no surprise here that the nine entries received two silvers, five bronzes and two no-awards. Doesn’t sound bad, until we take a gander at the tabs: $19 to $45. I realize the vineyard land probably cost a ridiculous amount, but c’mon. Virginia’s red blends were way better for less moolah.

BarefootWinner: The big guys. Barefoot’s Extra Dry Blanc de Blancs garnered the sweepstakes (best of show) award for sparkling wines with a $10 bottle that was among the best bubbles out of California to pass through my palate. Francis Ford Coppola’s eponymous winery amassed medals in 27 of the 31 categories it entered, including six double-golds and five best-of-class awards. Trinchero was named Value Winery for a group of lower-priced wines that received high medals.

Winner: The little guys, especially from British Columbia. La Frenz Winery‘s seven major awards out of eight entries earned it the Small Winery of the Year award, and another B.C. operation, JoieFarm, scored a sweepstakes award for its “Think Pink” Pinot Noir Rosé. The Augusta Winery in Missouri gleaned a Terroir Award for the best display of regional characteristics.

Loser: A grape called noble. My panel took no time to decide that the three icky-sweet renditions of this varietal warranted no medal consideration.

Winner: Varietals such as vignoles, chardonel, carlos, niagara, vidal and especially diamond made it clear that the middle and eastern portions of this country have got it going on with lesser-known white grapes, often on the slightly sweet side but always with some Andy Perdue Washington Winenice acidity. The red grape called chambourcin also provided some very-good-to-great wines.

Biggest winner: Yours truly, for getting a chance to sample such a wide range of grapes. And for getting to hang out with great wine writers like Tom Wark, Michael Apstein, Andy Perdue (left) and Ron Washam (aka the Hosemaster) and vintners Daryl Groom, Johannes Reinhardt and Clark Smith. Lots of learning, even more laughing.

19
May
2013
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Wines of the Week: May 13-19

Everyday: Classic viogniers smell almost as strong as stargazer lilies. Really good Gournierviogniers also have verve and vibrancy that almost belies all that floral glory. The 2011 Domaine de Gournier Viognier ($11) has the prototypical aromatics and spicy midpalate, but when its elusive fruit comes to the fore, this peachy, keen wine leaps to life all the way through the precise, focused finish (what we cork dorks call “cut”). Try this Languedoc-Rousillon beauty with any white meat with a fruity or creamy sauce. Or simply by its own delicious self.

Occasion: Sometimes the most apt description of a wine’s aroma and/or flavor is actually Herdadea color, and I love it when a wine smells and tastes “purple.” That’s one of many swell characteristics of the 2007 Herdade da Comporta ($22). The color actually is bright red, and this robust blend bears the characteristics of Portugal’s best wines: ripe, sun-kissed fruit, plenty of earthiness, firm but friendly tannins and lots of layers on the finish. The spicy notes make it a vegetarian’s delight, but it’s robust enough to play well with grilled red meat and sausages of all sorts.

18
May
2013
0

Malbec: a primer

What a journey.

Malbec was famed as the “black wine” of the Middle Ages; was a longtime staple in the MalbecsLoire Valley and Bordeaux; became a non-factor in the former and fell out of favor in the latter after a 1956 frost killed off three-quarters of the crop; emerged over the centuries as the grape in Cahors; somehow made its way to Argentina; was discarded there and then rocketed its way to an inextricable association with that country.

The ascension of the Argentine stuff has been meteoric and relentless. A few years back, I wrote a piece wondering “What is the next malbec, the up-and-coming hot thing in red wine?” The answer was malbec, and it still would be today, with double-figure U.S. sales increases every year.

For millions of consumers, Argentine malbec replaced Australian shiraz and California merlot as a go-to, easy-drinking-but-not-lacking-in-oomph red. As the groundbreaking Catenaclone and altitude research by Nicolas Catena (left) took root, Argentine malbec exports exploded from 1.3 million cases in 2003 to 9.1 million in 2011.

Easy-drinking malbec has merlot’s soft but firm tannins and plush, plummy, sometimes chocolate-y flavors, but more of cabernet’s earthiness and acidity. It stands up well to (judicious use of) wood and is less prone to flabbiness, although as with all red wines, some are too oaky and some are too jammy.

The versions from Cahors generally are darker and earthier with firmer tannins. Basically, Cahorsmore Old World. It often is blended with merlot and/or tannat there, but Cahors reds must be at least 70 percent malbec and usually, like the ones from Argentina, are 100 percent.

Malbec was an Old World staple for centuries after its emergence as a hybrid of the now-obscure prunelard noir and magdelaine noire des charentes grapes. It now is much more prevalent in the New World, with continually increasing plantings in Washington, California (where it was widely grown before Prohibition) and Chile, as it prefers dry, milder climates in which it can ripen early.

In the grows-together, goes-together vein, malbec pairs well with Argentina’s most popular food, slabs o’ beef. It also works with pizza, portabella and other mushrooms, sausages and most Middle Eastern dishes. With some dark chocolate for dessert.

7
May
2013
0

Wines of the Week: May 6-12

Everyday: Were a genie to appear and grant me one wine-y wish, I would ask for an Raptorunlimited supply of DRC. But if it were narrowed to being about the wine world, I would opt for a proliferation of lesser-known white European grapes on these shores: albariño, friulano, ugni blanc, etc. In other words, wines like the Raptor Ridge Chehalem Mountain Estate Gruner Veltliner ($19), a beautifully balanced bottle of refreshment. The fruit is almost all green “” lime, kiwi, green apple “” and comes in layers that alternate/integrate with beams of minerality and acidity through the medium-long finish. Try it with fresh spring greens and any vinaigrette, with or without chicken, or at a fish fry.

Occasion: I am loath to disagree with Mark Vlossak on anything, especially the outstanding wines he St. Innocentcrafts. And I see his point when he calls the 2010 St. Innocent Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir ($32) a “winter wine.” He’s telling the truth but not the whole truth: This earthy, savory red would rock in at least spring and fall as well. The color and fruit are darker than with most Oregon pinots, and there’s a touch of curry powder in the wine’s rich undercurrent. Try it with roasted meat or fowl in cooler climes, grilled renditions of the same when it’s warmer (which might be never here in Tundraland).

6
May
2013
0

Art for wine’s sake

Oh joy. There’s good news to be found on the wine front today: A little Champagne can improve our memories. I might have read this before and just forgotten, thanks to a lack of bubbles.

But most of the good cheer in my little corner of the wireless world has been of an artistic nature. Staying with the medical front:

Drinking

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next, a timely reminder:

Monday

 

And finally, for those who, like me, could use some exercise:

Workout