15
Aug
2012
0

White light

After years (a lifetime, actually) of being a Caucasian, I am now officially a “white man.”

For a good year or more, when it has been time to sit down and enjoy some fermented fruit juice, my gut/brain/soul’s first instinct fairly shouts “minerally white.” Even last winter, during Minnesota’s blissfully long syrah season, I had a hankering for something crisp but complex, and there ain’t many reds like that.

So this might be a matter as much of texture as color. And perhaps as a nod to the season, early this year I was especially enjoying whites from cool mountain regions such as Alsace, Alto Adige (left), Piedmont, Savoie and Mosel.

Still, I never had consumed even remotely that high a ratio of whites in winter. And my penchant has not abated as the weather warmed.

I simply find these wines more interesting and enjoyable than I ever have. Not to mention food-friendly, especially given how much I like spicy dishes from all over Asia. And pork: The “other white meat” does decidedly better with wines of the same hue.

I still love reds and enjoy them all the time, but I don’t foresee an imminent end to this trend. Many friends in the trade have reached the same stage, and some of them have stayed there. In other words, this might be a stop along my wine-drinking evolution, or the end of it. Don’t know, don’t care.

I asked my blanc-loving friend Annette, whom I respect as much as anyone in the business, for her take:

“AH-HA!!! You are a true wine drinker! Not sipper, taster, swirler, sniffer, but drinker! We all do this, those of us who are around it day and night. We want lift, refreshment and complexity. And yes, the flavor generated by moderate temps, slower evolution, ripening ‘hang time’ with acidity, that’s the formula I like, too. It’s a normal wine drinker evolution.

“I know tons of folks who have done this. Importers like Peter Weygandt, David Shivrick, Andre Tamers [left] confess their white preference. Many more, too.

“I had dinner the other night with a self-proclaimed non-professional wine geek. She had a glass of Rock Block with her chicken, and only one glass, while the rest of us swilled down a bottles of Sancerre like water.

“The big question is how often do you drink wine? Every day? On the weekend only? As a cocktail? Chances are good that if you drink wine with your meal, and if you are also an adventurous eater, you will like these fresh whites.”

Sounds about right to me.

12
Aug
2012
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 6-12

Everyday: I have a new favorite white grape. (I’m rather fickle that way.) It’s godello, and it finds phenomenal expression in the A Coroa Valdeorras Godello. At $19, this one barely ekes in under the “Occasion” category, and it certainly would fit with a great meal in or out, but it belongs here because I could drink it every single day. This pale gem reflects/embodies the slate soil in which the grapes were grown, and its layers of gorgeous melon and apple flavors glide firmly over the palate. The elegant finish is long and so clean it might could be mouthwash. Try it with any seafood, especially ceviche and sushi, or some fresh grilled summer veggies. Yum.

Occasion: It’s hard “” OK, almost impossible “” to go wrong with a Ken Wright pinot noir. But my favorite, year in and year out, is the Ken Wright Savoya Yamhill-Carlton District Pinot Noir ($50). It generally shows the best amalgam of earth and fruit, of boldness and silkiness, of all of this Oregon master’s classic pinots. With dark berries and a hint of smokiness playing off firm tannins, it’s a beautifully balanced bottle of wine. Roast chicken would sing with this beauty, but like most Oregon pinots, it also would cozy right up to salmon, especially grilled on a cedar plank.

5
Aug
2012
0

Enraptured with Raptor Ridge

Raptor Ridge is one of my favorite Oregon wineries, and not just because ambassador extraordinaire Annie Shull is from Minnesota. The wines Annie’s husband Scott crafts are tasty and alluring, especially (this being Oregon) the pinot noirs and pinot gris. (Scott also makes the fabulous Le Cadeau Diversité pinot noir.)

My ardor also entails the personality that the Shulls bring to the enterprise they co-own. They’re earnest but fun, with uncommon savvy about what brings so many of us to wine. Plus, they have great dogs. The winery got its name from the kestrels, hawks and owls that heavily populate the Shulls’ property.

In fact, the Shulls’ home vineyard, tucked into the Chehelam Mountains, is called “Tuscowallame,” which of course is the indigenous word for “place where the owls dwell.” And Raptor Ridge has a swell feature for its club: a “Democracy Challenge” in which members taste three different cuvees and provide input on a final blend.

But their best idea for their customers has to be the soil aroma kit at their tasting room outside Newberg, Ore. I seriously want to get there yesterday and check this out.

Being able to smell the original ingredient that might be evoked in the wines, then tasting the juice, is a surpassingly cool process. Not to mention checking out the various elements that make the local soil so suitable for great wine. I could really geek out on all of this.

Over brunch during a recent Twin Cities visit, Shull shared an interesting anecdote about her pinot gris: “Through the course of several months, I have noticed how quickly the sugar bounces back out. It gets rounded and sweeter than intended, so you push the acidity.”

Her intimate involvement with the winemaking side also became clear when she talked about the past two vintages, chilly and sometimes scary ones out Oregon way.

The late-breaking 2010 season was harrowing, she said, but “we had this beautiful long Indian summer. In 2011 it was not as much [an Indian summer]. We really sweated bullets but had faith because of 2010.

“As it turned out, 2011 was just a beautiful year for whites; acidity is the hallmark, but there still is fruit to be had. We did some things to add viscosity back, so it has that nice roundness to it.”

The Shulls (left) also are growing more of their own grapes, with 18 acres at their property, almost all to pinot noir and pinot gris, but one devoted to that non-Oregon staple, gruner veltliner. “We are so excited about the gruner,” she said.

Clearly, I wasn’t the only geek at the table.

2
Aug
2012
0

Wines of the Week: July 30-Aug. 5

Everyday: The bottle is so impressive that it’s natural to wonder if more attention was paid to the packaging than the contents. But one sip of the Vigne Regali Principessa Perlante Gavi ($15) puts a big ol’ kibosh on that notion. It’s dry but tingly thanks to a touch of effervescence, with lively citrus and pear flavors, minerally freshness and surprising length. Oops, forgot the nose, which is a lovely amalgam of floral and fruity. We enjoyed it mightily as an al fresco aperitif, but it should pair beautifully with all manner of Japanese food, lemony chicken or fish dishes and summer salads.

Occasion: For several wine lovers I know, Alsace is their favorite travel destination, for the scenery and food and firm, focused wines. The Albert Boxler Gewurtzaminer Reserve is a splendid exemplar: pure as the snowy Alps and packed with splendid tropical-fruit flavors. And talk about mouthfeel: My tasting notes include the unusual phrase “loves the tongue.” It also “loves the throat,” with a minutes-long finish of pure and hearty goodness. Spicy Asian food and saucy French dishes would be equally at home with this multi-layered gem.

29
Jul
2012
0

Linkin’ logs 7-29-12

It’s impossible to keep up with one-gazillionth of what’s other there in the Web World, but here are a few recent stories that would have tickled my fancy pants if I owned any fancy pants:

• This oafish maneuver reminds me of when the lady in Bouchard’s ancient caves handed my friend Joe an 1876 bottle and he couldn’t get it out of his hands and into mine fast enough. His rationale: “They won’t get mad if the wine writer drops it.” Guessing that in this case, there were other … distractions.

• Speaking of old wines, someone has unearthed millennia-old juice in China. I hear the 1010 BC reds are drinking nicely right about now.

• Anyone who ever had been flummoxed by a restaurant wine list “” that would be all of us “” should appreciate this video.

• On a more serious note, with all the wine fraud out there, it’s no surprise that someone has presented herself as an expert in sniffing out the fake stuff.

• And finally, someone has concocted a switchplate that might be dubbed “the meaning of life”: