25
Jan
2015
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Wines of the Week: Jan. 19-25

Everyday: In recent years, we have stared to see more reds emanating from white-wine haven Alto Adige, usually either Cliffhangerlagrein or teraldago. The 2012 Cliffhanger Dolomiti Red ($14) offers up both — 70 percent of it teraldago — and the result is a seriously pleasing, herby and hearty winter red (actually suited for all seasons). The acidity is spot-on, and there’s enough stuffing to warrant aging for a year or two. This is a fabulous soup and stew wine for almost any set of ingredients, and also a match for not-too-salty small bites. The heavenly songs of the vastly underrated Nashville singer-songrwiter Matraca Berg will further enhance the experience.

Occasion: It was disheartening to learn that upon selling Clos Pegase in 2013, Jan Schrem removed much of the stellar art Clos Pegase(Henry Moore!) that enhanced any winery visit mightily. Not that anyone could blame him. Blessedly, the wine is still stellar. The 2012 Clos Pegase Mitsuko’s Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay ($26) is packed with flavor and purity. A seriously deft touch with the oak and the fermentation lets the Meyer lemon and tropical fruit flavors shine, all the way through the bracing but graceful finish. Bring on the scallops, lobster or crab. And some rich, robust tuneage from the one and only Duke Ellington.

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