Wines of the Week: June 9-15

Everyday:  I’m sure there’s some less-than-stellar wine made in France’s Savoy region, Abymesbut none of it has reached my neck of the world. The 2013 Domaine Labbe Abymes Vin de Savoie ($12) is a buy-it-by-the-case value (I nabbed one a week ago), as easy-drinking as wine gets but with some nice depth and nuances. It’s crisp and refreshing and does that sweet/tart dance beautifully, its finish enlivened with a bit of fizz and a lot of Meyer lemon deliciousness. Enjoy it with lighter cheeses, most any poultry preparation or fish tacos — and the crystalline music and vocals of the latest St. Vincent disc.

Occasion: Speaking of crystalline, another Oregon winery has absolutely nailed the “white pinot noir” thing. The 2013 Hawks 2Hawks View Cellar Series “The Unicorn” White Pinot Noir ($32) has a little bit of the grape’s cherry/berry notes but is really more tropical and apple-y. There’s ample weight here for red-wine lovers and glorious aromatics and briskness to appeal to the white-wine-leaning among us. It was delicious last night with a rustic porchetta but should play well with grilled chicken or sausages and even difficult-to-pair veggies such as avocado and asparagus. Plop on the smooth but hearty Steely Dan classic − one of my favorite albums of the underrated 1970s − “Katy Lied.”

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