Wines of the Week: June 23-29

Everyday: Spain might have crashed and burned mightily at the World Cup, but its wines still offer world-class value. TochueloThe 2010 Tochuelo Vinos de Madrid Tempranillo-Garnacha ($9) is a rustic delight, boasting big ol’ red-fruit flavors with just enough earthiness, plus uncommon grip and structure for such an inexpensive offering. A touch of sweetness at the end dances deftly with the dusty finish. Virtually anything off the grill or out of the smoker will cozy right up to this red, and I can’t wait to roast some root vegetables with it. While sipping, plop on the rustic, elemental blues of the great Elmore James.

Occasion: The buzz on the 2012 German rieslings was, best I can tell, well-founded. The Keller2012 Keller Von Der Fells Riesling ($40) is the latest bottle of laser-focused loveliness to please my palate from across the pond. All the classic riesling elements are there: stellar purity, wonderful yin-yang byplay between the fruit and acidity and endless list and energy. What’s surprising is the complexity for such a pup, including a bit of the petrol nose usually found only in older rieslings. And befitting the grows together/goes together mantra, some refined, uplifting overtures from Wagner would seem to be in order.




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