8
Jun
2011
0

Art for wine’s sake

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I’ve always loved the look and feel of Toast Wine Bar & Cafe, a perfect fit for Minneapolis’ Warehouse District with its urban fixtures and soft lighting.

The space became even cooler recently when the proprietors hung several of Angela Kallsen’s striking paintings on the wall. Depicting old vines amidst vividly colored backdrops that sometimes appear almost neon without being remotely garish, these works are simply gorgeous.

They seem a bit abstract to me, but my art knowledge is about as deep as the neighborhood creek in August. At her website, Angela describes one of her grapevine series as having “influences ranging from modern abstract painting to Eastern Asian Taoist philosophy” and her work as depicting “the visual juxtaposition of rigid structures against organic flow.” I get, and agree with, all that.

Now I might be a bit biased here, because Angela is a friend and also the person who created the masthead you see above, a mashup of two photographs taken in Burgundy. But hey, anyone who can make yours truly look that appealing has got some serious talent.

8
Jun
2011
0

Ode to some Grecian words

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Greek wine is getting better these days, but it sounds as though it wasn’t half-bad a few millennia ago, if these estimable dudes are to be believed:

“In Vino Veritas” [“In wine is truth”] — Alcaeus, 6th-century BC poet

“Nothing more excellent or valuable than the juice of the grapes was ever granted by the Gods to man. — Plato (left)

“Quickly! Bring me a flagon of wine so I might wet my brain and say something clever!” — Aristophanes

“It is better to hide ignorance, but it is hard to do this when we relax over wine.” — Heraclitus

“Wine can of their wits the wise beguile, make the sage frolic, and the serious smile.” — Homer

5
Jun
2011
0

Napa travel tips: Logistics, logistics, logistics

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A few tips for navigating your way around the Napa Valley

Hotels
I have been fortunate enough to stay at a couple of fabulous places here at reduced media rates (still very spendy), plus one perfectly adequate spot that fits my usual budget. Personal recommendations:

For those with a penchant for heated bathroom floors, top-notch Craftsman furnishings and a glass of bubbly upon one’s arrival, the Poetry Inn is, as my Tennessee aunt used to say, purt’ near heaven. It feels that way physically as well, perched several hundred feet above a stupendous vista, with the east-facing rooms allowing guests to watch hot-air balloons rising above the morning fog and sunsets dipping into the Mayacamas Mountains. The furniture is luxurious but eminently tasteful. In the lobby’s guest book on our visit, the last entry read “I’ve never used word ‘perfect’ so many times in my life.” I’m not nearly eloquent enough to convey it any better than that. 6380 Silverado Trail, 707-944-0646, www.poetryinn.com

If there were a dictionary for phrases — actually, there probably is one — a photo of the Meadowood resort would surely be next to “casual elegance.  With cottages spilling across wooded hillsides on a secluded property, this is the ultimate retreat for either relaxing or getting out for a hike, 18 holes or a few rounds of croquet on obscenely immaculate grass. The restaurant just got a third Michelin star, and the accommodations are comfortable and nicely appointed. Only problem is, you won’t want to leave your room and actually do that whole Wine Country thing. 900 Meadowood Ln., St. Helena, 800-458-8080, 707-963-3646, www.meadowood.com

The El Bonita is a classic American motel; no more, no less. The rooms are clean, relatively comfortable and a bit cramped, with ample opportunities for shin-barking. The rooms in the back end of the complex are pricier and ostensibly quieter, but we’ve never had noise problems staying out front. Plus it’s closer to the pool, the hot tub and a modest continental breakfast. The El Bonita is not for those who want to be languidly hanging out at a “home away from home,” but it is a godsend for those of us who would rather spend our time out and our money on great meals and winery visits. $80-$280, depending on the season and the room/suite. 195 Main St., St. Helena, 800-541-3284, 707-963-3216, www.elbonita.com

For something in between, my trusted friend Mindy recommends the cottages at the Indian Springs Resort in Calistoga. “We’ve always found it very comfortable, and we love having a small house with a kitchen that has access to the big thermal pool and spa and is within easy walking distance of downtown Calistoga.” 1712 Lincoln Av., Calistoga, 707-942-4913, www.indianspringscalistoga.com

General Tips
Take the trail: Tucked between the Mayacamas and Vaca mountains, the The Napa Valley is 2 to 5 miles wide but 35 miles long, with just two long thoroughfares, Hwy. 29 and the Silverado Trail. From the town of Napa to Yountville, 29 is a divided highway, but then it turns into a two-lane nightmare, especially on weekends and anytime during summer or harvest season. Take one of the cross roads — often conveniently including “Crossroad” in the name — to Silverado Trail for any major north-south travel (watch out for the bicyclists, though). If you’re trying to get onto Hwy. 29 during busy times, don’t even bother turning left unless there’s a traffic light; just go right and take the next left to turn around.

Oil vey! Fancy-food purveyors are easy to find, but the one not to miss is the Napa Valley Olive Oil Manufacturing Company. In a seriously rustic space, there are all manner of great condiments at reasonable prices ($1 fennel sausage links, mmmmm). Without fail, get some Sparrow Lane golden balsamic vinegar and the delicious, screamin’-bargain-priced olive oil; we usually have a couple of half-gallons of the latter shipped back to Tundraland. 835 Charter Oak Av., St. Helena, 707-963-4173, no website.

Belly up: For at least one lunch or dinner, eat at the bar. The food’s the same, but the server is more accessible for ordering or just talking about Napa. You also stand a really good chance of meeting a vintner or grower and hearing some local gossip. Some of my favorites: Mustards Grill, Press, Bistro Jeanty and Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen. Napa friends also tout the Rutherford Grill and Bounty Hunter.

Don’t belly up: If you see an oversized limo or similar vehicle parked outside a tasting room, turn around, stat! Large groups make the tasting-room workers cranky and invariably and indubitably diminish the experience (even if it’s a physically attractive bachelor or bachelorette party). Some believe that it can affect our ability to taste, and I’ve actually seen that borne out.

Bachelorette

 

4
Jun
2011
0

Wines of the Week: May 30-June 6

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Everyday: “You should try this one,” said one of my favorite wine-mongers, Lisa Impagliazzo of North Loop. “We call it the cocaine wine.” Thankfully she was not referring to the buzz that accompanied this rosé, since I had never taken a liking to that particular intoxicant back in the day. Actually the Coteaux du Vendomois Lieu-dit-Cocagne 2010 ($13) is a red-berry delight, lovely, lively and yummy. It has just the texture and weight I like in a rosé, lingering enticingly on the palate before a pure, clean finish. Best I can tell, this is my first encounter with the pineau d’Aunis grape, also known as chenin noir. I’ve yet to run across a Loire rosé I didn’t really like, and this continues the string. Oh, and the buzz is sweet and mellow; turns out Lisa’s moniker comes from the end of the wine’s name.



Occasion: I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: Buy every bottle of 2008 Oregon pinot noir that you can afford get your grubby little paws on. Virtually every last one that I’ve tried has been delicious and built for aging — if you can keep your grubby little paws off of them. The St. Innocent Freedom Hill Pinot Noir 2008 ($42) is no exception, firm and friendly and focused, with the kind of earth/fruit amalgam that is a hallmark of that vintage. The tannins are still a touch tight — St. Innocent wines are famous for their longevity — but the finish is rich and vibrant. Like the rosé above, this is an absurdly versatile food wine, but salmon and baby-back ribs leap immediately to mind as particularly swell matches.

3
Jun
2011
0

Oh well, maybe next time

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Consarnit! I lost out on this vintage Champagne.

Reminds me of a story my buddy Craig Ritacco told me a few years back that we ran in the Star Tribune in 1985:

“One of our regulars walked in carrying an old, mysterious bottle. It looked a bit beaten up: it had no label and there were old markings on it. He said it was Heidsieck Champagne from the Titanic. He’d bought six bottles at around $4,000 a bottle.

“At first the guest said he would open the bottle, and I was a little relieved. But later he called me to the table and asked if I would open it.

“The metal on the top was steel, not aluminum like they have now, and it was imbedded in the cork so deeply you could barely see it. I wanted to go get some wire cutters, but it was one of those tableside deals, so I had to try to finesse it.

“I had to pull up a service table to work on it, and it took me about 15 minutes to get it off. I was shaking like a leaf, too, afraid something was going to happen. It was pretty nerve-racking. All I could think of during all that time was “iceberg dead ahead,” from that movie [1997’s ‘Titanic’].

So I finally got it open and poured a glass for the guest and the five others at his table. There was just a little bit of effervescence. It had oxidized, which was too bad. He gave me a small sip. It actually tasted almost like a dessert wine, kind of sweet.

“It wasn’t a great wine anymore, but still I was thinking, ‘how cool is this, to be tasting some real history? How many people get to taste a sip, oxidized or not, from the Titanic?’ I wouldn’t say it went down easy. It didn’t have much fruit left. You drank it because it was cool.”

1
Jun
2011
0

Zin-trocious

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OK, that’s a made-up word in the headline, but it aptly conveys the news of the day: The Seghesio family has sold its winery to a conglomerate.

Now there are good conglomerates in the wine world. When the recently deceased Jess Jackson would purchase a stellar winery such as Hartford, he would basically take a laissez-faire approach: Keep on making tasty juice the way you have been, boys and girls.

The folks who bought Ridge back in the 1980s also appear to have left well enough alone, as the winery continues to put out delicious zins and other bottlings. But the more typical result after takeovers of medium-sized wineries is a serious diminution/dilution of the product.

That’s certainly been true in the zin world, with Ravenswood and Rosenblum being turned largely into manufacturers of bland juice rather than crafters of fine wine. My friend Jason predicts that we will soon see a $10 version of the ballyhooed Seghesio Sonoma County Zin, with the quality going out and the name staying on. I ain’t betting against him.

There is some hope here: The Crimson Wine Group, which bought Seghesio, also owns Chamisal, Pine Ridge and Archery Summit, which still make some really nice wines.

Still, I can’t imagine what would possess a family that had operated a winery since the freakin’ 19th century to sell out. A big part of me doesn’t want to know the story behind this story. But I consider it a potentially serious setback for zinfandel lovers.

Especially with no one picking up the baton. On a whirlwind winery tour last year, my friend Joe and I visited several promising newbies in Sonoma; none of them were making zin. And when is the last time any of us read a report of an up-and-coming zin producer?

Thankfully, producers such as Turley, Carlisle, Carol Shelton, Outpost, Brown and A. Rafanelli continue to make fabulous zins. But very little of that is available outside of mailing lists and California venues.

I guess it’s a good thing that I don’t drink zinfandel as often as I used to.

31
May
2011
0

Wine Country travel tips: Walla Walla

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The Dusted Valley Vineyards website describes Wisconsin native Chad Johnson (the dude on the right) as “winegrower and owner.  The website you’re reading describes Chad as a smart, funny, personable guy who, with fellow Cheesehead Corey Braunel (left), produces delicious, vibrant wines under the Dusted Valley and Boomtown labels. When writing this Walla Walla travel guide, the ever-wise Chad opted not to cite individual wineries, lest he slight any companions; the links provide all the info you need on wineries to visit.

By Chad Johnson
I wouldn’t want to be growing grapes and crafting wine anywhere else in the world. Some people say it’s what Napa was 40 years ago. I do know this is an incredible little town smack dab in the middle of nowhere that delivers a laidback lifestyle rich in culture and drenched in killer wine and food.

Getting there: There are three direct flights a day from Seattle to Walla Walla and several to Pasco, 50 minutes to the east. It’s a three-hour drive from Spokane, four hours from Portland, Ore., and 4½ from Seattle.

Hotels: The Marcus Whitman Hotel offers luxurious accommodations and a prime location right downtown within walking distance of most restaurants and shops. Stay in the tower for the complete experience. “¦ Walla Walla Inns has two great locations, one in a vineyard and the other right in the middle of the historic downtown. “¦ Bed-and-breakfast fans should check out the Walla Walla B&B Association … For stretching out on the sofa and lounging in a more relaxed atmosphere, there are a lot of great vacation rentals via this site.

Read More

29
May
2011
0

Think un-pink

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Before writing last week’s Liquid Assets column on rosés, I attended my first Solo Vino Rosé tasting, where I discovered a few pink gems and checked out new vintages of old favorites.

But the revelation of this sun-kissed day was a handful of white wines also being poured at the event. All come from Europe and fall within the most value-packed price range in the wine world: $12 to $20.

The least expensive was a wine I’d been wanting to check out, the Broadbent Vinho Verde ($11), which had surprising vibrancy and balance for that Portuguese genre, not to mention tons of flavor.

Two other Iberian whites impressed. The Cune Rioja Blanco ($15) had layer upon layer of fruit, minerailty and acidity with an engaging persistence (a trait that’s far more appealing in wine than people). The Vina Sastre Flavus Blanco ($20) also rolled across the palate with pureness and focus, a spot-on amalgam of stones and stone fruit.

From just north of the border came the Begude l’Exotique Haut Vallée de l’Aude ($18), a spicy but lean and clean blend from the foothills of France’s Pyrennes Mountain, with a surprising primary grape: gruner veltliner.

Perhaps most delicious of all was a bold offering from a winery that sounds French but actually resides in the Alto Adige region of Italy. The St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Bianco ($18) boasted that wet stones-stone fruit tandem, seriously refreshing crispness and a jolt of heft at the back end.

It has been nice to see some New World vintners move their chardonnays to the un-dark side, with more crispness and vitality. It has been even nicer to see an increase in the number of Old World bottlings that have spring and summer written all over them: light and lively, enticing and refreshing.

Of course, that only works when the wines end up as delicious as these are.

28
May
2011
0

Wines of the Week: May 23-29

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Everyday: I love wines that instantly evoke a food companion. It is almost impossible to take a swig of the 2009 Duxoup Gamay Noir ($15) and not think “hamburger.” This is a big boy compared to Beaujolais’ gamays, with lush tannins and bold blue fruits, plus a good bit more length than most French offerings. It also would fare well with grilled pizza, not dogs and whatever-sized slab o’ beef you would like. At the north end of the Dry Creek Valley, Duxoup is a true family operation: Andy and Deborah Cutter do almost all the work themselves. “We don’t have any employees,” he told me last year. “Someone helps pack the bottles after bottling.”

Occasion: Before long, there might be as many rich, delicious sauvignon blancs as chardonnays emanating from California’s North Coast. Merry Edwards and Spring Mountain make superb sauv blancs in the $30-$35 range, and the Grey Stack Rosemary’s Block Sauvignon Blanc ($28) is right there with them. It’s almost overwhelmingly fruity at the outset — but what fruit! — and then layers of minerality roll into the mix and lead to a long, focused finish. It’s hard to imagine a fish or seafood dish that wouldn’t be happy sidling up next to this lush beauty.

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