Wines of the Week: May 9-15
Weekday: Another year, another leap forward for pinot gris from Oregon. Most vintners there call it gris instead of grigio to
connote a style that is more French than Italian. The 2014 Cardwell Hill Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($16) could go either way but mostly stays right on Yummy Highway. It’s lush at the outset and firm on the midpalate and finish, with gorgeous tropical and citrus flavors and bracing minerality. Beyond delivering deliciousness, this winery deserves kudos for being über-green: a gravity-flow building with 33 huge windows to provide all the daytime light needed inside, Salmon Safe and LIVE certification and even conduits to recycle the spent lees back to the vineyard. Like the better Oregon pinot gris, this baby was made for salmon but also will play well with shrimp cocktail and spring salads. Plop on the inimitable, plaintively smooth vocals of Victoria Williams to complete a perfect setting.
Occasion: Some sauvignon blancs emit citrusy, grassy aromas; others lay on the tropical fruit; still others go the stone-
fruit/white-flower route. The amazing 2014 Storm Santa Ynez Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($24) offers up all of those notes, almost in a barrage. Then it delivers massive flavors, throwing in some melon to go with those other fruits, undergirded by just-right acidity. I discovered this wine on a recent trip to Santa Barbara and liked it so much that I ordered four bottles when I got home; not sure when I last bought that many bottles of a domestic white. This is rich enough to dance deftly with barbecued chicken or ribs. The incredibly rich, layered breakout album by the late, supremely great David Bowie provides the perfect soundtrack.



“His lips drink water, but his heart drinks wine.” — e.e. cummings (left)
• On a recent vintage: “I love 2013 to death. It’s so fresh and delicious. But it’s also an extreme vintage; it separates the adults and the kids.”
• He likes sourcing grapes from the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, because of the effects of the Van Duzer Corridor, which funnels in winds from the ocean. “It makes the skins tougher, but you still get this great essence of black fruit.”
• I loves me some pale rosé like Whispering Angel, but VinePair makes a pretty good case for the 
• Among the reasons I love Carlisle’s 
Some choice leftovers:
while I was there. Oh, and the professors got really tired of Randall Grahm [left] asking questions about pinot noir.”
driven by economics and not just how delicious it is; for a long while we didn’t know because it had been taken over by Beefsteak and Early Girl.”
• One of the world’s great writers, Jim Harrison, at left with his beloved Domaine Tempier), passed away recently, prompting a Men’s Journal post on his
a lesson in why one should not throw out the baby with the bath water. I almost stopped reading after the sentence “But in the next few decades, global warming could make regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy completely inhospitable for its signature grapes.” Clearly, the author never has been to Burgundy. It’s frickin’ cold there; climate change might alter farming practices a bit, but it would have to get ridiculously warmer in Burgundy for pinot noir and chardonnay to stop thriving there.
invited some friends over to sample them. Frankly, it was an exercise in futility and really hard work, because we were in virtually all 16 cases committing gross infanticide. These were 2012, ’13 and ’14 wines, and, aside from a couple of simply bad ones, need several more years before a fair assessment can be made. But we doggedly explored all 16 of ’em.
• Those wacky French are at it again, 
