15
May
2016
0

Wines of the Week: May 9-15

Weekday: Another year, another leap forward for pinot gris from Oregon. Most vintners there call it gris instead of grigio to Cardwell Hillconnote a style that is more French than Italian. The 2014 Cardwell Hill Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($16) could go either way but mostly stays right on Yummy Highway. It’s lush at the outset and firm on the midpalate and finish, with gorgeous tropical and citrus flavors and bracing minerality. Beyond delivering deliciousness, this winery deserves kudos for being über-green: a gravity-flow building with 33 huge windows to provide all the daytime light needed inside, Salmon Safe and LIVE certification and even conduits to recycle the spent lees back to the vineyard. Like the better Oregon pinot gris, this baby was made for salmon but also will play well with shrimp cocktail and spring salads. Plop on the inimitable, plaintively smooth vocals of Victoria Williams to complete a perfect setting.

Occasion: Some sauvignon blancs emit citrusy, grassy aromas; others lay on the tropical fruit; still others go the stone-Stormfruit/white-flower route. The amazing 2014 Storm Santa Ynez Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($24) offers up all of those notes, almost in a barrage. Then it delivers massive flavors, throwing in some melon to go with those other fruits, undergirded by just-right acidity. I discovered this wine on a recent trip to Santa Barbara and liked it so much that I ordered four bottles when I got home; not sure when I last bought that many bottles of a domestic white. This is rich enough to dance deftly with barbecued chicken or ribs. The incredibly rich, layered breakout album by the late, supremely great David Bowie provides the perfect soundtrack.

8
May
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 5-8-16

We’re on a scroll, seeking out the most edifying and/or entertaining far on the Wine Web:

Rolland

• “We’re in a world without balls.” Learn the context in which peripatetic wine consultant Michel Rolland (left) said this.

• The French have always had a more mature view of children and alcohol, and they’re better off for it. I have no hope that many Americans will learn from this.

• Decanter chose these 10 vinous photos as best of the year. I concur, even without seeing the other entrants.

• Timely advice: As is their custom, the witty wags at the Onion take a completely believable premise and run with it, revealing an unknown benefit of red wine.

• Learned a new word today, and it’s right in my wheelhouse, having both vinous and literary connotations: oenomel.

• Finally, I’ve had the occasional night like this, but much less often since making wine my primary imbibable:

Quiz

30
Apr
2016
0

Wise on wine: Writers wax rhapsodic on our favorite beverage

Writerly wit, wisdom and wine go together like Comte cheese and Meursault. To, er, wit:

“You Americans have the loveliest of wines, you know, but you don’t even realize it.” — H.G. Wells

e.e.“His lips drink water, but his heart drinks wine.” — e.e. cummings (left)

“Champagne is one of the elegant extras of life.”  — Charles Dickens

“God loves fermentation just as dearly as He loves vegetation.” — Ralph Waldo Emerson

“Wine, n. Fermented grape-juice known to the Women’s Christian Temperance Union as ‘liquor’, sometimes ‘rum’.  Wine, Madame, is God’s next best gift to man.”  — Ambrose Bierce, “The Devil’s Dictionary,” 1911

 

29
Apr
2016
0

Rollin, Rollin, Rollin, keep that wisdom coming

My favorite Texan, the inimitable Rollin Soles, was in town this week and gave a typical edifying/entertaining talk on Oregon wines. A few highlights:

Rollin• On a recent vintage: “I love 2013 to death. It’s so fresh and delicious. But it’s also an extreme vintage; it separates the adults and the kids.”

• On the Marsh Vineyard, where he buys pinot noir grapes: “The grapes all taste different based on compass points. We’ll pick the south [block] first, then the east, and so on. They’re all different.”

• He opined that Willamette wines’ aromatics emanate from “the early evening, when it’s warm” but still cooling off.

• He no longer makes a Willamette Valley bottling, instead blending grapes from three vineyards under the label “Gravel Road.” Eh? “All the vineyards we work with are alongside gravel roads.”

Corridor• He likes sourcing grapes from the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, because of the effects of the Van Duzer Corridor, which funnels in winds from the ocean. “It makes the skins tougher, but you still get this great essence of black fruit.”

• He started making a pinot called “The Stalker.” He separates the stems from the grapes at crush time, but stores the stems in insert gas for seven days, then puts them back together with the grapes. The 2013 had a fabulous lush texture to go with that vintage’s freshness.”

• The ever-droll Soles threw in some of his usual unique phrasings, referring to some people in the trade as fitting in at “crybaby school” and talking about a slim female compatriot thusly: “She has to jump around in the shower to get wet.”

27
Apr
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 4-27-16

After an exceedingly long spring break, it’s time to get back to Linkin’ Memorial High:

Whispering• I loves me some pale rosé like Whispering Angel, but VinePair makes a pretty good case for the darker shades of pink.

• Wine seems to be good for your health (in moderation, or so the caveat goes), as does exercise. Turns out that wine also might enhance your exercising.

• My friend Mike recently turned me on to some tasty grapefruit-infused beer (Stiegl), but I had never heard of grapefruit wine until reading this account.

• Roll out the barrel: Germans now consume more wine than Italians.

• Finally, a logical conclusion:

Glass

13
Apr
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 4-13-16

People, places and things are on the agenda at Linkin’ Memorial High this week:

Officer• Among the reasons I love Carlisle’s Mike Officer is his ardor for preserving and utilizing really old vineyards, like this one.

• For some reason, there’s still a need to explain that sulfites in wine are not anything to be scared of.

• Best “photo essay” I’ve seen in a good long while: how our appearance changes after one, two and three glasses of wine.

• Spain strikes back in the cheap-wine wars.

• My pal Chris Kassel goes long, or deep, or something, to great effect in a skewering of the 100-point system.

• Finally, more wisdom form the streets:

Drink

9
Apr
2016
0

Good guy, great winemaker: Jeff Runquist outtakes

One of the cool things about my gig is getting to talk to great vintners, and I thoroughly enjoyed interviewing Jeff Runquist for a Star Tribune profile. And as per usual, I had more material than would fit into the confines of the story.

Jeff RunquistSome choice leftovers:

On a holiday revelation: “One Thanksgiving dinner, Dad had two carafes, and we all asked dad what he was doing, and he said ‘I’m not gonna tell you till the end of the meal. So at the end he said ‘what do you think?’ And carafe A still has some wine in it and there’s some in our glasses, too, and carafe B is long gone. He said [carafe B is] a Ridge Little Town Zinfandel.. We asked about wine A, which was pretty hard and tannic. He said that’s a Robert Parker 100-point wine, the 1975 Mission Haut Brion. And from that point on, my stylistic bent was to make a wine that I want to drink, softer, less astringent,.”

On his classmates at Cal-Davis: “In the first quarter I took Intro to Winemaking, and sat next to Heidi Peterson. And she introduced me to Michael Martini. And Joel Aiken and Dave Pirio were on our dorm floor. Dave Ramey was a grad student Randallwhile I was there. Oh, and the professors got really tired of Randall Grahm [left] asking questions about pinot noir.”

On how he found libations in those college days: “Davis at the time was a dry city, so we had to go three miles out of town to buy wine. And sure enough three miles and one inch out, there were two stores.”

On whether he liked to play in the dirt as a kid: “As a young man you always like playing in the dirt. But I was in an upper-middle-class bedroom community, and the dirt I played in was behind home plate as a catcher.”

On making wine from lesser-known (in California) grapes: “It’s like the resurgence of heirloom tomatoes. So much of that is Heirloomsdriven by economics and not just how delicious it is; for a long while we didn’t know because it had been taken over by Beefsteak and Early Girl.”

On the oft-repeated phrase that “wine is made in the vineyard”: “I think if you’re looking at the very upper echelon, at the very apex, that’s probably more true than for the majority of wines. You need to have good grapes to make good wine. But you give the same grapes to half-dozen winemakers, and you’re going to get a half-dozen wines of varying styles.”

 

8
Apr
2016
0

Gleanings: 4-8-16

My semi-harried life has been filled with wild and wacky and wonderful wine experiences and encounters of late. A few of my faves:

Harrison• One of the world’s great writers, Jim Harrison, at left with his beloved Domaine Tempier), passed away recently, prompting a Men’s Journal post on his 13 rules of drinking (actually, more about not over-drinking). Love this quote from an earlier article: “In my forties, I turned to wine with a passion,” he continues. “I tested 34 Côtes du Rhônes in search of a house wine I could afford … I could have become a wine snob, but didn’t. The escape was narrow, but my salvation was several near-bankruptcies …. I will not be stopping on the way home from the office for one of the syrupy California ‘cabs’ so favored by nitwits …. Money can distort the buying and drinking of wine just as it distorts art in the gallery and auction businesses.”

• OK, so it’s hard to determine whether organic grapes make better wine than “regular” ones. But recently I received two samples of the 2013 Vento di Mare Siciliane Nero d’Avola, one with organic grapes, the other not. And the organic one had decidedly more focus and character than the other one, which aside from a nice anise nose, was dull. Not a purely scientific experiment, but interesting nonetheless.

• Here’s a fascinating look at which regions might benefit the most from climate change’s effects on grape-growing. It’s also Burga lesson in why one should not throw out the baby with the bath water. I almost stopped reading after the sentence “But in the next few decades, global warming could make regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy completely inhospitable for its signature grapes.” Clearly, the author never has been to Burgundy. It’s frickin’ cold there; climate change might alter farming practices a bit, but it would have to get ridiculously warmer in Burgundy for pinot noir and chardonnay to stop thriving there.

• With winter not letting go of its #@%^ grip, it was a fitting time for our second Boyz Syrah Night of the season. And a festive occasion it was, with some fantastic entries from the Rhône (Clape Cornas, Chave Hermitage, Gaillard Côte-Rôtie) and Australia (Old Bastard, a surprisingly unsweet Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy). But for the most part, the American wines proved disappointing, especially a Cayise (for the second straight BSN) and even including a flight of Saxum Bone Rock. But my friend Mark and I made a fabulous out of the ’07 Saxum and a Booker “Oublie”; the same was infinitely greater than the parts.

Point is, when tasting some wines that are disappointing, you have absolutely nothing to lose by trying to combine a couple of them; one might fill in the holes in the other, and vice versa.

• So I was sent a boatload of petite sirahs from sundry California producers via the fantastic P.S. I Love You organization, and Bialeinvited some friends over to sample them. Frankly, it was an exercise in futility and really hard work, because we were in virtually all 16 cases committing gross infanticide. These were 2012, ’13 and ’14 wines, and, aside from a couple of simply bad ones, need several more years before a fair assessment can be made. But we doggedly explored all 16 of ’em.

The exceptions that proved the rule: 2013 Robert Biale Palisades Vineyard Calistoga Petite Sirah, where we fought through the youth and super-ripeness to uncover some wonderful harmony, structure and length; the 2014 Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Petite Sirah, again balanced despite huge dollops of fruit and smoke, and the 2013 Ridge Lytton Estate, sturdy, stout and endless.

Wish I coulda set these down, though.

 

7
Apr
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 4-7-16

A boatload of Web-tastic hap’nin’s:

French-wine-protest• Those wacky French are at it again, spilling tens of thousands of gallons of wine being slipped into their country.

• Been hankering for hangover-free wine? It’s heeeeeere.

• Two-Buck Chuck has been Three-Buck Chuck in these parts for some time now. Soon it will be No-Buck Chuck, i.e. just gone.

• Call me a Luddite, but I think wine should be for people who love it, not for speculative investors who have no interest in enjoying it. So I have a hard time rooting for a lot of the people who got bilked buying futures from Premier Cru. Unfortunately, a lot of folks who were just trying to buy good wine for themselves also got screwed.

• Regular readers know how much I love quotes, from wise to wiseass, about wine. VinePair has compiled a score of the latter.

• Finally, a couple of chalky, cheeky signs of recent (or any) vintage:

Size sign

 

 

Wine %$# Sign