27
Jun
2015
1

Wines of the Week: June 15-21

Everyday: At the end of a fantastic dinner at Heyday the other night, manager/wine buyer Dani Megears brought over a vin Bigarosanto and another sweet Italian wine. The latter, a 2013 Elio Morrone Bigaro ($19), was a true revelation. An effervescent blend of muscat and brachetto, this super-tasty concoction is vibrant and laced with layers of lushness and leanness. The finish leans more toward the former and is seriously clean and refreshing. Adding to the awesomeness: The 5-percent alcohol level makes this a swell quaffer. It works al fresco before or after a summer meal, and plays well with most desserts, especially fruity ones. For musical accompaniment, who better than Mr. Sweet Baby James, the enduring and delightful James Taylor.

 

Occasion: When it comes to California cabernet, I’ll admit to being a bit of a nostalgia buff. What that means is that I’m
McGrailespecially enamored with the ones that harken back, that remind me of why I fell in love with these wines in the first place. The 2011 McGrail Livermore Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($39) is just such a wine. With classic fruit (cassis, dark berries, a bit of plum), hits of mint/eucalyptus and a hearty, layered finish, this beauty is, well, super cab-y. The fruit’s perfect ripeness and the just-right tannins are noteworthy as well. Grilled lamb or beef are the obvious pairings, and with good reason. The spot-on soulfulness and sexy riffing of tenor giant Sonny Rollins are made for this wine.

24
Jun
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 6-24-15

It was especially saddening the other day to learn of the passing of the Firesign Theater’s Phil Austin the other day. As a tribute, let’s have more schooling for more students at More Science, er, Linkin’ Memorial High:

Mason• I have some friends who think you can drink wine out of any ol’ thing. Which of course you can. But you don’t have to be a geek tho appreciate how much better wine can smell and taste in good stemware, and now there’s ample proof.

• Oh well: All that rosy news about red wine’s potential to help us lose weight seemed a but dicey. Turns out it is.

• I recently bought a used copy of the wonderful art book “The Wrath of Grapes” by Ralph Steadman, Might have it add this Salvador Dali tome to the collection.

• This article about buying trends is packed with useful info and stats.

• Finally, I’m all over this sentiment:

Sign

 

 

 

22
Jun
2015
0

Wines of the Week: June 8-14

Everyday: Can you say “yum,” boys and girls? You will once you take a sip of the 2014 Syncline Columbia Valley Rosé Syncline($19), the best pink wine I’ve found from the Evergreen State, a k a Washington. This blend of Rhône grapes (38 percent mourvedre, 32 percent cinsault, 30 percent grenache) has glorious harmony but also is layered and among the most complex rosés one could hope to find. The texture ranges from zippy to hearty, with a great late kick of perfectly ripe red-berry fruit. Yum (oh wait, I already said that). Supremely suited for patio sipping, this is also robust enough to fit the summer burger/brat scenario. The pitch-perfect harmonizing of the Coasters prove a great pairing as well.

Occasion: My way better half and I have been major fans of Giesen’s sauv blancs for more than a decade, but it was only Giesenrecently that I encountered the 2012 Giesen Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc ($49). Wowza! Talk about layers, not to mention fabulous tasty pear and tropical fruit, just the right shot of acidity, a voluptuous mouthfeel and a near-endless finish. In other words, sweet perfection. Obviously, this makes a great stand-alone dessert, but it also should play well with fruit-based sweets in particular. Although the arrangements can be almost too sweet, the vocal magic of Mr. Mel Torme is an apt soundtrack.

19
Jun
2015
0

Gleanings: 6-19-15

I’m working on a post about this past week’s wine judging, but in the meantime, a few notes and anecdotes from my wine world:

Jewfford• Decanter’s Andrew Jefford (left) had a spot-on side note while discussing the obscene prices on the higher-end Bordeaux, noting that because many proprietors are “seemingly living in a parallel pricing universe to their core customers, many long-term Bordeaux drinkers must be fingering their divorce settlements and wondering where to go next.

“So where would you go? Napa is as expensive; the Douro isn’t quite on the radar yet; Rioja’s appeal is a different, more relaxed and ready-aged one; there just isn’t enough great Burgundy to go around (and too much Burgundy that isn’t remotely great); while the Rhône’ is wildly diverse because it’s two separate regions of vastly different styles and proportions. The Southern Hemisphere doesn’t quite compete yet: Australia and South Africa are both feeling their way towards naturalness of articulation in their key red-wine terroirs, while New Zealand needs the proof of time: older vineyards and vines, and more vintages for its key zones. Chile struggles, through a snowstorm of charm, for grandeur; Mendoza’s great reds have almost too many dimensions for their own good.  Less expensive, middle-ranking Bordeaux would be an excellent place to go – were it not sold with a leaden lack of imagination and excitement, and were it not contaminated with the growing antipathy engendered by grand-cru pricing policies.”

• Speaking of overpriced juice, according to one study, fine-wine buying has risen by 234 percent in the last decade. One Auctionreaction: Guy Tolhurst, managing director of Intelligent Partnership, said, “Wine collecting has been a hobby for hundreds, if not thousands of years, but more recently fine wine has been recognised as a genuine alternative asset class, providing significant diversification benefits from mainstream financial markets. Now, to fulfill the wishes of many people reading this, I am going to go fuck myself.”

Full disclosure: I added that last sentence.

• I might be about to f*** my own self. For years, I have received thousands of sample bottles, and I have done exactly what the folks sending them wanted: write about the wines I really like, and not write about the crummy ones. It might be professionally imprudent, but I am going to break that pattern just this once (maybe).

I have received four red wines in the last couple of years labeled Emiliana “Natura,” and all have been wretched. I keep private ratings on wines, Yuckinserting a decimal to make the range 5.0 to 10.0. The best score I have given one of these wines was a 7.1, and this week I handed a pinot noir probably my worst score ever, a 5.2. The descriptors ranged from “bad elements, really out of whack” to “seriously stinky; yuck!” They were in different shipments, so they weren’t “off” bottles.

Funny thing is, the two whites I’ve tried were mediocre to actually decent. But the reds are the reason why someone should start a website called plonk.com or don’tdrinkthisstuff.com.

It shan’t be yours truly. However, if you email me at bwdecant@gmail.com, I’ll send back a few tasting notes on truly crappy stuff, some of the foggiest frogs I have kissed in this often laborious endeavor.

19
Jun
2015
2

Linkin’ logs: 6-19-15

This week’s Linkin’ Memorial High curriculum includes economics, sociology, science, political science and astronomy. Whew.

Screaming Eagle• Napa wine has cracked the $1,000-a-bottle barrier, reports W. Blake Gray, who makes a good point about the wineries having some justification to charge these prices.

• Are we not men? We are rosé drinkers.

• There’s not much wine here, but I thoroughly enjoyed VinePair’s look at what the countless current presidential hopefuls might be quaffing. Especially the naughty parts.

• To the moon, Alice? A bottle of Lynch-Bages didn’t make it to that lunar orb, but it did enjoy a foray into space. Danger, Will Sommelier, danger!

• Wine Folly has a predictably fun guide on what your brain is like on coffee, wine and pot.

• Finally, it’s hard to argue with this lass’ approach:

Bottle

11
Jun
2015
0

Wines of the Week: June 1-6

Everyday: I had a delightful visit with New Zealand vintner Beth Forrest recently, and her Kiwi mate talked about how insanely Doctors'popular the Forrest Estate The Doctors’ Marlborough Riesling is in their homeland. One sip of the 2012 ($15), and it was readily apparent why. Vibrant and vivacious, this is one bold, beautiful wine, with streamlined melon and stone-fruit flavors and bracing acidity. I had no idea New Zealand riesling could be this delicious. Bring on the rich seafood or the mildly spicy Asian dishes. And plop on the sweet, perfectly harmonious vocals of the Impressions to round out the experience.

Occasion: I loves me some cabernet franc, and am seriously excited about the vintners who are nailing it Rymeon these shores. The 2013 Ryme Allegria Vineyard Russian River Valley Cabernet Franc ($32) is the latest one to wow and dazzle this palate. It’s grown in a cool climate for cab franc, and the resulting lighter body lets the cherry and herbal notes blossom from start to finish. That means anything herbal, from salads to fowl to grilled veggies, is a great match for this wine. The man just tabbed as Stephen Colbert’s “Late Show” bandleader, Jon Batiste, provides the perfect earthy, spicy soundtrack.

 

 

11
Jun
2015
1

Linkin’ logs: 6-11-15

It’s time for more globe-trottin’ — with a dollop of science — at Linkin’ Memorial High:

Lagier• I’m with my friend Mike Dunne on this one: California syrah generally is waaaaaay better when it comes from a cooler-climate site.

• Proper aeration of wine can be tricky, which helps explain why there are always new devices devised for that purpose. This one actually looks kinda intriguing.

• Wine in the wild: Bet these guys and these guys would also like moscato.

• As wine vessels go, these new/really old terra cotta cups sounds pretty swell.

• The world’s coolest wine cellar just might be in … Tasmania.

• Finally, I’m completely on board with this approach:

Wine Glasses

 

10
Jun
2015
0

Gleanings: 6-10-15

Some past, present and future stuff worth sharing:

• This is NOT to be missed: Bill Hooper is just about the coolest person I’ve met in the wine world, fun and super-bright and passionate. His new project is exemplary. The event is a whopping 10 bucks, and you get a nice little buzz before going out on a Saturday night.

• One of my other favorite people in the wine world is the irrepressible Mel Masters. He was in town recently with his son Charlie to Masterspromote the fabulous wines in their new collaboration called Le Charmel. Charlie shared a sweet anecdote about his mom, Janie (at left, with Mel):

“[I spent] from age 16 till 20 in the beautiful vineyards and cellars of Bordeaux in the town of Margaux at Chateau Prieure Lichine. I worked for Alexis Lichine and studied wine for 4 years. I remember telling my mother on returning from France that I was terrified that I would not know everything about wine. She calmly walked over to me and grabbed my shoulders and said, ‘Son, wine is like women. … You can study them all your life and you will never figure them out. And when you get enough of them, they make you feel warm and fuzzy inside.’ ”

Works for me.

• I get a daily email from a website called Delancey Place, book excerpts that are splendidly chosen. Here’s part of one from the 2013 book “Salt Sugar Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us” by Michael Moss. It’s especially relevant for those who say they don’t like sweet wines:

Tongue Map“Forget what we learned in school from that old diagram called the tongue map, the one that says our five main tastes are detected by five distinct parts of the tongue. That the back has a big zone for blasts of bitter, the sides grab the sour and the salty, and the tip of the tongue has that one single spot for sweet. The tongue map is wrong. As researchers would discover in the 1970s, its creators misinterpreted the work of a German graduate student that was published in 1901; his experiments showed only that we might taste a little more sweetness on the tip of the tongue. In truth, the entire mouth goes crazy for sugar, including the upper reaches known as the palate. There are special receptors for sweetness in every one of the mouth’s ten thousand taste buds, and they are all hooked up, one way or another, to the parts of the brain known as the pleasure zones, where we get rewarded for stoking our bodies with energy. But our zeal doesn’t stop there. Scientists are now finding taste receptors that light up for sugar all the way down our esophagus to our stomach and pancreas, and they appear to be intricately tied to our appetites.”
6
Jun
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 6-6-15

All kinds of interesting fodder from both sides of the pond:

Bacon• The world — or at least my world — has been waiting for this: a primer on pairing wine and bacon.

• Here’s vivid proof that money can’t buy you brains: $18K of an oxidized bottle of wine.

• Great writer, great topic: Stuff like Elaine Brown’s up-close look at the far Sonoma Coast make Jancis Robinson’s website subscription worth the semi-hefty tariff.

• I’ll be judging wines this week again, and I always wonder how good a thing these competitions are. SFDecanter’s Andrew Jefford has a great take on the pluses and minuses, and this conclusion: “I think the wine world would be duller, more inscrutable and more hazardous without them.”

• I can’t find a date for this promising news on the health front, so it might not be fresh. But hey, it’s timeless.

• Finally, some words, or at least rationales, to live by:

Wine Sign