6
Jun
2015
0

Wine wisdom from Rumi

Here’s how much I love the wisdom of the 13th-century mystic Rumi: I follow both @Rumi_Quote and @RumiQuotes on RumiTwitter, and got a big ol’ smile when the former followed me back. Some vinous offerings from the man described by Wikipedia as “a poet, jurist, Islamic scholar, theologian, and Sufi mystic”:

“Either give me more wine or leave me alone.”

“There are thousands of wines that can take over our minds. Don’t think all ecstasies are the same!”

“And from beyond the intellect, beautiful Love comes dragging her skirts, a cup of wine in her hand.”

” ’Tis the fire of love that inspires the flute,
’Tis the ferment of love that possesses the wine.”

28
May
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 5-28-15

It’s almost as hard to keep up with all the worthy wine-y web posts as it is with all the SKUs of fermented grape juice out there. A few recent favorites:

Rose shades• Vine Pair presents a look at the sundry hues of rosé, but it’s possible this ever-fun site was only scratching the surface.

• The peerless Jancis Robinson writes a nice overview of wine’s evolution over the last three decades. I’m also more than delighted to learn that Jancis has added Elaine Brown to her formidable stable of writers.

• I don’t agree with everything in this take on developing one’s wine palate, but it’s got some fun and fascinating points.

• Many folks I know consider Anselme Selosse to be Champagne’s foremost vigneron. Alder Yarrow gets up close and personal with the man and his stellar wines.

• We might be looking at shortages of Prosecco and New Zealand sauvignon blanc. To which I am a knight who says “meh.”

• Finally, a deft twist on one of my favorite maxims, the so-called “Serenity Prayer”:

Wine & Coffee

 

 

28
May
2015
0

Wines of the Week: May 25-31

Everyday: Here’s the perfect wine for anyone who claims that pinot grigio/gris is insipid or less than a noble grape. The 2014 Raptor RidgeRaptor Ridge Oregon Pinot Gris ($20) is exuberant and packed with fruity mineral goodness. The flavors come in waves: stony apricot, tropical guava, citrusy Key lime and more. It’s beautifully round on the midpalate and refreshingly focused on the finish. Just a stellar effort, this white delight is hearty enough to play well with salmon, and the acidity makes it a stellar match for any other fruits of the sea (or the chicken coop). The fresh, juicy warbling of Americana thrush Allison Moorer on her latest work provide even better accompaniment.

Occasion: Few things are more fun in the wide, wild world of wine than finding a cool new (to me) brand. The 2011 ClemensColene Clemens Adriane Chehalem Mountain Pinot Noir ($38) was a recent revelation (thanks, Mike!), from its forest-floor aromas and cherry/berry flavors to the rustic/elegant textural interplay and surprising, surpassing finish. Yum. Bring on some pheasant or duck prepared any ol’ way, and you’ll have a perfect pairing. Ditto the earthy, pungent music of the sui generis NoLa maestro Henry Roeland “Roy” Byrd, a k a Professor Longhair.

26
May
2015
0

Gleanings: 5-26-15

Some notes, quotes and anecdotes of recent vintage:

Zalto• At a gathering the other night, my pal Joe brought his usual great wines plus some new glasses in which to sample them. It was my first encounter with the Zalto line, and I gotta say they beat Riedels in the expressiveness on the nose by a good bit (we did several side-by-side comparisons). Alas, they are out of my price range for any and all things easily breakable.

• My friend Brian had a vinous mini-crisis recently that provide an interesting lesson. His account of what he called “my wine ‘huh’ of the week”:

Cage“My mini fridge went on the fritz and started to freeze everything, including two bottles of sparkling. I was convinced that they would be toast, but once thawed I opened one, and it still had perfect carbonation. Same happened to a bottle of Chimay beer I had in there. It did blow the cap off a frozen San Pellegrino sparkling water, but the cages on the sparkling helped contain the pressure, I guess.”

• I was transcribing some notes the other day and came across a tip to check out the brilliant AmisKingsley Amis’ reaction to a wine tasting note that included the descriptor “big shaggy nose”:

“That genuine extract from a wine journal is the sort of thing that gets the stuff a bad name with a lot of people who would enjoy wine if they could face trying it seriously. Let it be said at once that talking about big shaggy noses and so forth receives a deeper and more educated contempt from real wine drinkers than from the average man in the pub”

Hear hear!

• Had lunch a couple of weeks ago with Adam McClary, the delightful co-owner of Gamling & McDuck winery, and among the wines he poured was an out-of-this-world 2011 Gamling Stagecoach Cabernet Franc. The label is distinctive even by the winery’s standards. The story behind it, recounted by Adam:

“The label story is fun, and really sort of heartwarming just because of the general greedy, crappy nature of attaining rights to something. We tried to print a quote from a (rather obscure) song on the back of the bottle once before and ran into the most Wolfgangridiculous legalities and attitude. It was super refreshing to collaborate with Wolfgang [Pietrzok, right].

“The Gamling wine label was intended from the beginning to be 100% whatever Gabe [Shaffer, his partner in life and wine] wanted. It’s a very personal wine, and the art had to reflect that. Having done the art-school thing, I have some friends who have gone on to become pretty well-respected photographers. We reached out to two with an idea to shoot nudes in similar poses to an old Yves Gangloff label. We worked on this project for approximately eight months. We looked at hundreds of photographs. I put together hundreds of Photoshop files. We changed the models, we changed the backdrop, the lighting, the color palette, just about everything, twice. It just never seemed right. At one point Gabe walked into the office and said this isn’t right, and we reluctantly scrapped all of that work.

“What a mess. We sent a bunch of wine to the photographers who helped us, and mulled over our next move. Two days later she walked up to me with a clipping from a magazine that she’d been carrying around for 15 years. She asked if we could use it, and I said that’s not how copyright works. Ha! But you know tenacious Gabe; rather than say ‘ah shucks’ and let it go, she wrote Wolfgang a letter.

Pietrzok“Wolfgang Pietrzok is a very well-respected German photographer. I believe he’s in his 70s, and continues to work today. The photo of the clipping is part of a series called ‘Contusions.’

“She told him all about our little label, and about her appreciation of his work, and a week later she received a response from him. He seemed to give the go-ahead to use the work, but also became a bit long-winded about the Rhône Valley and how much he liked those wines (he never mentioned the Loire 😊). She wrote back to verify that we could in fact use his photograph, and this time he responded with high-resolution files and a clear OK.

“It was really neat – you just don’t see that sort of thing, that generosity. So we flipped the image on its side and inverted it to make it make more sense for the wine label, bottled it and sent him a case. A month later he sent another letter warmly recalling opening a bottle with his granddaughter. Gabe got all teary just reading it.

“I said it earlier, but I’ll repeat it: Collaboration and copyright and business and art usually doesn’t work out this sweetly. Wolfgang has just been simply incredible, and we couldn’t be more proud to have his art on ours.”

26
May
2015
0

Wines of the Week: May 18-24

Everyday: Leave it to nonpareil importer Kermit Lynch to find a moscato that’s the perfect commingling of acidity and ripeness. MoscatoThe 2012 Elvio Tintero Sori Gramella Moscato d’Asti ($13) is a stunner, all lush flavor (layers of stone fruit, melon, etc.) and vibrant minerality. This is a full-throttle effort with a beautifully bracing finish that includes plenty of that fruit. Anything spicy from Mexico or Asia would sing with this Piemontese gem, along with earthier dishes (fowl with mushrooms, for example). Add to the mellifluousness by plopping on one of my favorite recent musical discoveries, the swinging’ duo of Ella and Buddy Johnson.

Occasion: Sommeliers have glommed on to German pinot noir of late, but I’m just as happy with a pinot meunier from DartingDeutschland. The 2013 Weingut Karl Darting Pfalz Trocken Pinot Meunier ($22) is gloriously earthy/iron-y/minty with big-ass ripe red-berry/cherry flavors and a lush-ish midpalate/finish featuring nice spicy notes. It will please pinot-files and delight anyone who wondered why folks would drink red wine from Germany. These guys have been growing grapes since 1780 but bottling them under the Darting name “only” since 1989. Like it’s noir-y mate, this wine is made for roast chicken. Or pork. And it might be the best pizza wine I’ve tasted in eons. Another musician of yore, Reverend Gary Davis, provides a perfectly rustic soundtrack.

21
May
2015
0

Wines of the Week: May 11-17

Everyday: For years, I have been hearing/reading that Chateau D’Esclans Cotes de Provence “Whispering Angel” ($19) is Whisperingone of the world’s best rosés. Now I have seen for myself, sampling the 2013 and ’14 over the last two weeks. Both were delicious, fresh and gorgeous on the nose and palate, packed with red berry flavors but quite light on its feet. This blend of grenache, rolle (vermentino) and cinsault offers up a very Provencal combination of elegance and concentration. As a stellar rosé, it’s well suited for almost any food, or al fresco sipping, but pairing it with really fresh seafood and/or veggies seems like the optimum route. The soaring, searing vocals of Loreena McKennitt are just the right fit.

Occasion: Regular readers — yes, both of you — know about my ardor for the emergence of grapes strongly associated with Forlorn Hopethe Old World in the New. The 2012 Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdelho ($24) is an extra-cool exemplar, with perfectly ripe green fruit (kiwi, Key lime) through the rich and bracing finish. This white gem is focused and precise, but rolls over the palate with both lush and lean textures. I’m toting this California delight to my next Friday night fish fry, and it also would cozy right up to a fresh salad with a mustardy vinaigrette. The seemingly timeless Boz Scaggs, who is also a Napa vintner, provides an apt soundtrack.
20
May
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 5-20-15

Lots of cool stuff out there, but first a message from our soapbox:

For what it’s worth, I do not link to articles that have multiple pages (like one about old vines on the Drinks Business site that has a few paragraphs each over four pages). I find this practice beyond appalling, the height of greed and thoughtlessness; if you need multiple friggin’ clicks THAT badly, you should examine other aspects of your business plan. It’s stupendously user-unfriendly, and blessedly most websites that used to do it have figured that out.

Now on to the good stuff, presented in a decidedly kinder if not gentler fashion:

Stink Top• Hail is generally the greatest threat to vines the world over, but there’s a new kid in town that’s almost as daunting: the stink bug.

• CNBC and Brandwatch collaborated to concoct this cool map of what form of potable is most popular in each state, at least based on Tweets.

• The winsome and wise Madeline Puckette makes the case that wine drinkers are the most responsible quaffers. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

• Love him or loathe him (and there are many in each camp), Jon Bonné always provides interesting fodder in his pieces, including this one from his new gig at Punch, touching on several topics: the effect of obscene prices on high-end stuff, the melding of/battle between old and new, how fringe becomes mainstream, etc.

• Finally, another slew of illustrated fodder has crossed my transom of late, including some swell napkins and a cool help-wanted sign:

Napkins

Grape Stompers

 

 

 

20
May
2015
0

My kind of Serge

Serge & Mike

Serge Hochar with Mike Dombrow at Sunfish Cellars.

 

Traveling a lot means missing out on some seriously swell wine events. The most painful one in recent years was an appearance by the inimitable Serge Hochar at Sunfish Cellars. The Chateau Musar maestro has since slipped the surly bonds of Earth, heightening my angst over the missed opportunity.

So I’ve been reading interviews and profiles of the man recently, and have culled some quotes that (I hope) capture his essence:

Serge• “This is a living wine and I am living man, and when we come together — even around all this death [in his native Lebanon] — it is a relationship between two living beings. And this is the most important thing a person can ever experience — this feeling of life meeting life. Do you understand? Life meeting life. This is the only thing that matters.”

• “I know nothing about wine. I know how to make wine, but I know nothing about wine, and each day I discover that I know less.”

• “Wine is communication. … We agree on one word to use, but sometimes the meaning of that word for each of us is different. This is how we can communicate more clearly: through wine.”

• “Wine is away from air for so long. When you open it, it wakes up. As it wakes up, it starts to show its soul. … A wine of experience — an old wine — has an endless speech. It can talk to you for hours. You have to learn to listen. For me, each wine is an individual and has characteristics. I try to understand. I try to listen. Each wine will tell you something, will give itself to you. The wine will talk to me, will give me an impression, will touch my different feelings. If you feel the wine with emotion, it opens windows in your brain.”

Musar• “After one sip, go back. The wine will have something new to show you. You are changing by the minute. So is the wine. You are evolving, aging by the minute, as is the wine. The wine is a companion for you in this.”

• “When a wine knows you are paying attention, it will reveal things to you that you would not believe. The things this wine revealed, this made me think of all my memories, of my whole life. Then I would take another sip, and it would give me more.”

• “[Wine has] the ability to grow younger as it grows older.”

• “Since I was young, I have always been confronted to try to understand that disturbing complexity called life. Now I believe that I have come to understand life through the wine. When I bring the yeast to the wine, when I see that union and its offspring, I can see that life — more than anything — is an eternal impulse to create. Life wants to live. Life wants to meet with life. Life wants to create more life. That is all there is. That is where the answers to all my questions are. That is where I can look for God.”

 

16
May
2015
0

Hello, gorgeous!

I love Facebook, not least because I’m always discovering new stuff there. My friend Ron posted something from a swell FB page called Science Alert. Which led me to that website, where I found fascinating stories such as one titled “You’ll soon be able to type everything in Einstein’s handwriting, thanks to this new font.”

But I digress. What originally caught my eye(s) were these photos of veraison, the process in which grapes change color from green to … whatever they’re going to end up being. Glorious stuff:

Veraison