31
Mar
2015
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More Science High

Being, in general, smart folks, scientists naturally are articulate about our favorite beverage. To wit:

Pasteur• “A bottle of wine contains more philosophy than all the books in the world.” — Louis Pasteur (left)

• “Fermentation is correlative with life. Wine is the most healthful and most hygienic of beverages.”
― Pasteur

• “Penicillin cures, but wine makes people happy.” ― Alexander Fleming

• “The most magical things happen when a grape ripens at the margin of the climate.” ― Gregory V. Jones, professor and research climatologist at Southern Oregon University.

 

30
Mar
2015
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Wines of the Week: March 23-29

Everyday: A few years back, I fell in love with Shaya’s verdejo, but until this month I hadn’t tasted the Spanish Arindowinery’s “second label.” Turns out the 2013 Bodegas Shaya Arindo Rueda Verdejo ($11) is just about as gorgeous as its big sister, with a flowery, citrusy nose and sharp lemon flavors at the outset melding beautifully with pineapple and melon notes. It’s a classic summer sipper, fresh and lively from vibrant start to ample finish. Reminiscent of the kind of great table wines that can be bought for a song in Spain, this is actually a U.S.-only product. Fresh or raw seafood are ideal accompaniments, and a picnic with fried chicken is an even better setting than our just-thawed-out decks. Plop on the sweet, summery sounds of Hui Aloha, and party on!

Occasion: Few wines are more enjoyable than a cabernet that’s both fresh and firm. The 2010 Dussak Family Columbia DussekValley Cabernet Sauvignon ($36) also boasts a dandy dust/fruit amalgam throughout its smooth journey through the palate and beyond. The dark-red fruit is reflected in the wine’s inky color, and it’s easy to see why the 2010 is the current release: It’s ready to drink but tastes like something that has been in the cellar for the just-right amount of time. This Washington red has the acidity to cut through the fat in a grilled porterhouse but also would play well with a lamb, beef or portabello mushroom burger. The sturdy vocals of the eloquently plain-spoken James McMurtry provide an apt soundtrack.

 

30
Mar
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-30-15

Beer here! And microbes good and bad! All in a day’s curriculum at Linkin’ Memorial High:

Lite• For some reason, this report on people preferring weaker wines made me think of those old tastes-great/less-filling ads.

• A few years back, Oregon wine maestro Ken Wright shared some thoughts here on the value of microbial matter in soil. Now comes a report that basically backs what Wright believes, and posits that the key element of terroir might be … bacteria?

• Not the microbes you want: A former nuclear-weapons plant site is leaching groundwater in Washington wine country.

• Here’s a very cool look at the origins and history of zinfandel.

• The Catholic Church is backing a wine bar in northern France. Guessing they’re serving something better than sacramental wine.

• Finally, this T-shirt should be on many an oenophile’s gift list:

T-shirt

 

 

 

28
Mar
2015
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Wines of the Week: March 16-22

Everyday: I had a great time writing about one of my favorite wine regions, Alto Adige, for my erstwhile day job. One of Kernerthe inspirations for the column was the fabulous, fascinating and utterly fulfilling 2013 Abbazia di Novacella Valle Isarco Alto Adige Kerner ($19). Replete with green fruit (kiwi, Key lime) and mountain-air freshness, this gem’s fruit-acid-mineral harmony is persistent through the refreshing finish. Given its Alpine background and the ol’ grows-together-goes-together deal, this would be a super addition to a fondue party, but also would play well with trout, spring salads (especially with chicken) and even artichoke dip. The cool, smooth harmonies of the Hollies make a great backdrop.

Occasion: On the other side of northern Italy, some recent vintages of nebbiolo have proven surprisingly precocious. The Barolo2008 Attilo Ghisolfi Bussia Bricco Visette Barolo is ready, willing and able to please anyone who thinks these wines should sit for a couple of decades (or anyone, period). Hearty as hell, with penetrating dark fruit flavors and absolutely perfect tannins, this beauty takes us along for an ultra-elegant, multi-minute ride on the finish. A vegetable terrine (especially if mushrooms are involved) or some spring lamb make for ideal accompaniment. As does the soulful music of a man who peaked early but aged well, Mr. J.J. Cale.

24
Mar
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-24-15

It has been a rather serious week on the InterTubes, with lots of actual news, odd lessons and caveats. To wit:

Arsenic• All the hoo-ha about arsenic wines is actually a load of hooey.

• Still, some weird stuff is in your wine, including items that you might serve with the finished product.

• Some scientists might have found a pathway to lower alcohol in wine: better living through yeast.

• The wine stolen from the French Laundry was found a good while back, but the case remains shrouded in mystery.

• Finally, my sees-tah Claiborne knows me well, having shared this great thought:

Grapes

18
Mar
2015
0

Wisdom of the ages

We might like to think we have made great advances over the last couple of millennia, but the ancients can match us in vinous wisdom. To wit:

“Then wine bottles were brought up, carefully sealed and labeled. ‘FALERNIAN, CONSUL OPIMIUS, ONE HUNDRED PetroniusYEARS OLD.’ While we were examining the labels, Trimalchio clapped his hands. ‘Wine has a longer life than us poor mortals,’ he sighed, ‘so let us refresh our palates. Wine is life. I am giving you real Opimian.’” —  Petronius (left)

“At the head of all medicine am I, wine;  only when there is no wine are drugs required.” — Babylonian Talmud

“A feast is made for laughter, and wine maketh merry.” — Ecclesiastes

“Drink to me with your eyes alone. … And if you will, take the cup to your lips and fill it with kisses, and give it so to me.” — Philostratus

“Away with you, water, destruction of wine!” — Catullus

18
Mar
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-18-15

Just the facts, ma’am. That’s what this linkin’ roundup provides:

Est!• The wines are not necessarily memorable, but the names are. A look at how five oddly labelled bottles got their monikers.

• How much is a $10 wine really worth? The estimable Tyler Colman has the answer.

• I consider myself fairly adventurous, but I’m pretty sure I won’t be trying this wine.

• In a scene that W. Blake Gray aptly characterizes as “more like a Hollywood movie than a sunny afternoon in pristine Napa Valley,: a man with Minnesota roots kills a business partner, then himself.

• Finally, a frightfully clever idea for a wine implement, followed by a more practical one:

Clinton

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shower

16
Mar
2015
0

Wines of the Week: March 9-15

Everyday: It’s time — past time, actually — to pay serious attention to what’s going on in New York. The 2011 Lamoreaux LamoreauxLanding Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc is a fabulous expression of one of my favorite varieties, completely nailing that elusive herb/fruit/acid amalgam. The nose is earthy and vibrant, the red fruit rolls languidly on the palate, and the finish is refined and refreshing. A great pheasant wine, this luscious red also would play deftly with roast chicken, grilled pork chops and hearty soups. The slow-burning, ever-soulful vocals on Rhiannon Giddens‘ first album provide equally superb accompaniment.

Occasion: Springtime calls for one of those pure-as-the-driven-snow whites. Cue up/uncork the 2013 EtudeEtude Carneros Pinot Gris ($25), a relatively full-bodied offering with peach and key-lime notes duking it out (the winner: our palates) and a lovely, vibrant finish. This is a vintage-variation-proof wine in my experience, always delivering the goods. Shrimp cocktail is a perfect pairing, but this gem has enough body to play well with salmon or trout. Plop on the husky but lovely music of Sam Phillips for this one.

14
Mar
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: Pi Day

Been scrollin’, scrollin’, scrollin’ more than usual lately and finding a bevy of cool stuff:

Stewart• Having abandoned Top 40 radio more than half a lifetime ago, I don’t think I ever heard the Rod Stewart ditty “Do Ya Think I’m Sexy?” (which I consider a plus). But according to Time magazine, drinking a bit of wine makes it more likely the answer is yes.

• The more you learn about wine, the easier it is to forget stuff you once knew. Andrea Robinson reminded me of this while talking about Sancerre being a haven for pinot noir. Now Decanter has more on how my favorite grape does there.

• My friend Mike Dunne dissects some really interesting data on younger consumers: They not only like fruit wines, but two-thirds of them say they mix wine with fruit juice. Makes me want a Bellini from Harry’s Bar in Venice. Or three.

• One Bordeaux winery thinks that Sauternes should be consumed before a meal as well as after it.

• And finally some sign language, a bit of mobile drollery:

Allegro 2