12
Apr
2014
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Wines of the Week: April 7-13

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Everyday: For year’s, Concha Y Toro’s line of Casillero del Diablo wines have provided fine value. But the Casillero2012 red blend brings this line to a whole ‘nother level. Deep and dark, replete with coffee and dirt lacing through some firm red-berry fruit, this is a quaffer that also could be served at a fancy steakhouse. It’s got surprising oomph for a $12 wine (often marked down a good bit) and is another reminder that it’s time to break out the grill. Besides burger, brats and the aforementioned slabs, this hearty red will play well with roast chicken and root vegetables.

Occasion: Friuli is known primarily for its white wines, although the northeastern ZuaniItalian region is home to some swell reds. Most of the whites are made as varietals, but my perennial favorite is a blend. The 2012 Zuani Vigne ($20) showcases all four of its grapes: lean friulano, rich chardonnay, brisk sauvignon blanc and tropical pinot grigio. A veritable fruit cocktail, it’s got beautiful spice notes and just-right acidity through the luxuriant finish. I’m hard-pressed to imagine a seafood or fowl dish that wouldn’t cozy up to this gem of a wine.

 

10
Apr
2014
0

Hello, cru world?

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Last summer, my buddy Joe and I journeyed to the Willamette Valley in search of some answers. We didn’t find (m)any, but we had some great wine, food and fellowship.

The question that got perhaps the strongest response was whether some slivers of the valley could be likely candidates for a grand-cru-type designation. Most of the responses were Bethelof the “it’s way too early to tell” variety, with a smattering of “WTFs?”

So kudos to the excellent wine writer Katherine Cole for taking on the topic in a post for Wine Searcher earlier this week. I guess. She clearly ran into some of the pushback we got but bravely took a stab at naming five potential grand-cru vineyards, acknowledging that we won’t know for a generation or three.

I emailed some acquaintances out there to get their responses, which follow:

Janie Brooks Hueck, Brooks: “Any time you put Grand Cru and Oregon on the same page [it’s a good thing].  Katherine is very insightful.  I think the article, as it should, has the soul of Oregon.”

Ken Wright, Ken Wright Cellars: “We have spent 28 years identifying the best sites in the valley.  None of the five listed would be of interest to us.”

Mimi Casteel, Bethel Heights: “I have seen Katherine’s article.  It was much buzzed-about right after it came out. I generally hate the use of Burgundian classification terms in casteel 2reference to American vineyards for so many reasons.  First, we haven’t even begun to scratch the surface of what terroir means in America.  The soils, from a farming perspective, are virginal, and our traditions are as well.

“I realize the temptation, that because something exists in such a defined way and has been so fundamental to our understanding of a thing, that we would constantly hold up one tradition to another. … Those vineyards she mentions include geek favorites and obvious standards.  It is an interesting five.  Do I think they all deserve attention?  Sure. … [but] there are so many more.”

Wayne Bailey, Youngberg Hill: “There are great sites across the entire valley. And everyone has their favorites. Shea, Seven Springs, and Youngberg Hill are my top choices. But as you know, the fruit varies dramatically across the six sub-AVAs. Not in terms of quality, but in terms of characteristics. So it depends on what you like.”

Page Cowles, Knudsen Vineyards: “It is interesting to note that four out of the five vineyards she cites as possessing Burgundian grand cru potential are located in the Dundee Hills. As Dundee Hills winegrowers at Knudsen Vineyards for over 40 years, my family and I are always thrilled when our AVA receives well-deserved acclaim.  The vineyards she features are indeed excellent vineyard sites, and there are many more worth exploring, as she suggests.”

Mark Vlossak, St. Innocent: “It seems absurd that Seven Springs and Shea are not on the list. I agree with Maresh, maybe Eyrie (more likely Premier Cru). To be Grand Cru, the Vlossakwines need to age very well and be very consistent, especially in the problematic years. I think Justice may need to be considered as it is especially good in more problematic years. It ages beautifully, and the Burgundians that I often give it to love it and mistake it for Richebourg.

“My basic point is this: Most Grand Cru vineyards have been produced for long periods of time by multiple winemakers. The consistency of quality in every year as well as their age ability are major qualifiers for Grand Cru status. It is not just that they can achieve greatness. Many Premier Cru sites are better than Grand Cru in the best vintages. However, in challenging vintages the Grand Cru sites come out on top, consistently. Their quality is not dependent on a single winemaker, but that quality is achieved by many, specifically because the site is great.”

9
Apr
2014
0

Gleanings: 4-9-14

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Some nuggets culled from hanging around, and being, a grape nut:

• I got a set of verdejos from Rueda, and since my experiences with this varietal have been almost unfailingly positive, I decided to drink them like normal people do rather that the sip, spit and toss routine that is the standard for samples. And while I enjoyed all three, I was struck by how different they were from one another. It occurred to me somewhere along the way this they were like various iterations of chardonnay.

BelondradeThe 2011 Belondrade y Lurton Verdejo was laden with tropical, spicy flavors and a creamy texture, like a very good California chardonnay. The 2012 De Alberto Verderol Verdejo, light and lively with a soft finish, reminded me of a Petit Chablis. And the super-delicious 2012 Pie Franco Blanco Nieva Verdejo had its layer of fruit flavors laced with spot-on minerality and acidity, like a stellar Meursault.

Have I mentioned that I love my job?

• Reason No. 4,732 why Bordeaux tends to rub me the wrong way. The scions at Bourdeax’s Mouton Rothschild are hammering a Burgundy winery called Chateau Mouton to change its name. It’s very reminiscent of all those stories about Disney going after small towns or mom-and-pop operations for using a character’s name or image. The Burgundy winery’s owner, Laurent Mouton, has the “money quote”: “I do not see why I should justify myself or my name. Their family name is Rothschild, not Mouton.’

• I get a daily emailed quote from a website called Living Compassion, and today’s was particularly interesting: “One must let the play happen to one; one must let the mind loose to Albeerespond as it will, to receive impressions, to sense rather than know, to gather rather than immediately understand.” — Edward Albee (left). OK, substitute “wine” for “play,” and see if that does not ring just as true.

• I am a doofus when it comes to graphics and to computers, so it’s no surprise that I can’t do justice to a great wine matrix shared by Giuseppe Vajra of C.D Vajra. It takes four key elements and leaves infinite spots to place a particular wine. It’s got “Elegance” on the top, “Density” on the bottom, “Fruit” on the left and “Mineral” on the right. Draw it up for yourself while I try to find someone who can illustrate it here. It’s pretty damn inspired, I say.

6
Apr
2014
0

Cool hands

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Like most folks, I can’t resist a list. They’re usually fun and almost always fodder for endless debate. So when the Daily Meal recently sent a missive about their “60-plus coolest people in food and drink,” I beat feet, or more like quick-clicked, to it. And I actually found a lot to like — until I counted the folks from the wine world: three, one of them a fellow blogger, Tyler Colman.

I’ve spent a wee bit of time with Tyler, and he’s a nice fit for the site’s definition of cool, which I love: “Cool is Tylerelusive, subjective, ephemeral. Beyond that, it’s an aesthetic, a way of behaving, a bearing, an attitude; it has to do with self-confidence, self-assurance, aplomb, imperturbability, a sense of perspective. Cool people are true to themselves, and don’t serve the masters of fad or fashion. Hipsters aren’t cool. Cool is the opposite of trendy, the antithesis of ‘hot.’ If you think you’re cool, you probably aren’t.”

Tyler’s website, Dr. Vino, is definitely cool, insightful, incisive and often droll. The man himself (left) has no airs of being a hipster; instead rather than playing a character named Dr. Vino, he is just being himself.

But it’s seriously bogus that only two other wine folks made the list. I’m not counting Darrell Corti, a Sacramento food purveyor who certainly has made his mark in wine (most recently railing against what he considers high alcohol levels), but Randall Grahm and Jim Clendenon are excellent choices.

To counter this egregious shortfall, I offer up the 10-plus coolest wine people I have met:

Bo Barrett: Those who have been fortunate enough to watch the under-recognized gem “Bottle Shock” might Bohave thought Chris Pine’s character was pretty cool. But the Chateau Montelena maestro he’s portraying, now older and wizened, is the real deal, funny, avuncular and as comfortable in his own skin as anyone you’ll encounter. Other cool Napa winemakers: Stephane Vivier (suave and seriously French) of HdV and Thomas Rivers Brown (quietly confident and wildly accomplished) of Schrader, Outpost, The Grade, etc.

Andy Demsky: In the marketing/PR world, great work is a big part of what makes you cool. Between the entertaining and edifying Line on Wine,  his co-authorship of the stellar historical account “A Vineyard in Napa” and his deft skills at making anyone who deals with Shafer Vineyards feel welcome, Andy’s got it.  Other cool wine publicists: Tim McDonald (urbane but not at all slick) of Wine Spoken Here, Lisa Mattson (accommodating and accomplished) of Jordan and Charlotte Milan (sociable and Kennedy-esque) of Milan Communications.

Patrizia Felluga:  There’s something about Italian women, and whatever it is, Patrizia’s Patriziagot it. She’s engaging and elegant, eminently attractive but self-effacing and just plain fun as a dinner companion and conversationalist. Oh, and she makes fantastic juice at her winery, Zuani. Other cool Italian winemakers: Stefano Inama (charming and disarming) of Inama and Giuseppe Vajra (dashing but thoughtful) of G.D. Vajra.

Jane Ferrari: Most dynamos can be a bit tiresome, but a full day with the Yalumba rep would be a nonstop rollicking good time. If one could keep up with her. She pulls off sassiness like nobody’s business but is super smart about all things vinous, especially the swell portfolio she is representing. Other cool winery ambassadors: Carissa Mondavi (insouciant and incisive) of Continuum, Jason Haas (well-spoken and affable) of Tablas Creek and Janie Brooks Heuck (winsome and passionate) of Brooks.

Daryl Groom: I’m sure I’ve seen Daryl when he wasn’t smiling, but I can’t remember when. He’s the kind of Darylopen, friendly guy whom everyone loves and no one resents his popularity. One of many Down Under vintners who have moved to California temporarily (they thought) and stayed, he makes tasty wine on two continents, at Groom and with the fundraising Colby Red; like the man himself, they’re downright friendly. Other cool Sonoma winemakers: Mick Unti (inventive and inspirational), Miro Tcholakov (spirited and witty) of Unti, Merry Edwards (ardent and bold) and David Ramey (loquacious and entertaining) of Ramey Wine Cellars.

Jeffrey Patterson: At his extremely cool house surrounded by spectacularly cool vineyards, Jeffrey is one part aging hippie, two parts surfer dude and three parts savvy winemaker. His Mount Eden Vineyards pinots and chards are among California’s very best, with the kind of natural yet profound qualities that reflect their maker. Like the Dude in “The Big Lebowski” (whom he resembles more than a little bit), Jeffrey Patterson abides. Other cool Central Coast winemakers: Adam LaZarre (hip and whip-smart) of LaZarre, Randall Graham (hipper and whip-smarter) of Bonny Doon.

Gabrielle Schaffer: Bursting with energy and effervescence, Gabrielle is the kind of multitalented vintner Gabrielle 2(vineyard manager at the amazing Stagecoach Vineyard and winemaker at Gamling & McDuck) who remains on an ardent quest to learn ever more about what goes into making great juice. She manages the intense and focused but seriously fun balancing act with aplomb. Another cool Napa grower and winemaker: Chris Madrigal (amiable and honorable) of Madrigal Family.

Rollin Soles: The mustache alone might qualify Rollin for this list. But the matching larger-than-life (without the attendant ego) bearing is why the vintner behind Argyle and Roco belongs here. He pulls off the difficult task of being gregarious, gracious and generous. Rollin is willing to share thoughts and insights about any and every facet of life. And he didn’t come by those thoughts and insights idly; he wears them on his worldly face, punctuated by that ‘stache. Other cool Oregon winemakers: Doug Tunnell (passionate and beneficent) of Brick House and Mark Vlossak (upbeat and inquisitive) of St. Innocent.

Ron Washam: He’ll probably never speak to me again if he finds out that he’s on this list, but the scribe behind the side-splittingly hilarious Hosemaster of Wine website is every bit as witty in person as his readers would expect. His Everyman appearance fairly hides the wit and wisdom that’s rolling around in that inventive mind. Plus he’s a better taster than most of his fellow somms, homing in on the qualities that make wine enjoyable. Other cool wine bloggers: Alfonso Cevola (graceful and erudite) of On the Wine Trail in Italy, David White (wise way beyond his years and engaging) of Terroirist and Ryan Opaz (effusive and creative) of Catavino.

Becky Wasserman: An American ex-pat who has managed to make a mark and actually become an integral Beckypart of Burgundy (that’s no mean feat), this dynamo shows no signs of slowing down at an age that … well, is greater than mine.  She alternates between sharing her hard-earned wisdom and showing a self-effacing side (“My son called and said, “Last night, I got a Pingus. I thought he had contracted a disease.”) Other cool importers: Terry Theise (ebullient and erudite), Eric Solomon (debonair but down-to-earth) and Kermit Lynch (savvy and eloquent).

5
Apr
2014
0

Chimney Rock’s Vianna: Unusual background, uncommonly good results

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Elizabeth Vianna is probably California’s only winemaker with a Brazilian father and Central American mother, and she’s almost certainly the world’s only winemaker with an undergraduate degree from Vassar.

But what makes Vianna really distinctive is the portfolio of wines she crafts at Chimney Rock, including Elevagesuperb cabs (Stags Leap District and single-vineyard) and stunning blends called Elevage, which is French for “raising” the wine, she said.

Not bad for someone who not so long ago grabbed her Vassar diploma and headed to New York City to “take a few years off before the grind” of med school and residency. But while there she fell in love — with wine. While working as chief of clinical toxicology at the Cornell Medical Center, she started digging Bordeaux from a friend’s father’s collection, she said, “and that began a very serious tasting/exploratory wine period.”

She went to a tasting at Christie’s auction house where the seriously accomplished vintner Christian Moueix was speaking. When he mentioned Cal-Davis’ enology program, the die was cast. And Vianna’s science classes at Vassar (her degree was in biology) no doubt made her studies at Davis a bit less arduous.

After a short stint at the Napa Wine Company, she was hired on at Chimney Rock, where she became the winemaker in 2005 and general manager in 2011. That latter title is not just window dressing.

“It’s smart of the [Terlato] family to put a winemaker in charge of the budget,” she said. “It makes for a very holistic approach to the business.”

Most of Vianna’s attention, though, is directed toward viticulture and viniculture. All of Chimney Rock’s wines are made from estate grapes on a 180-acre Silverado Trail property that included an 18-hole golf course when Hack and Stella Wilson bought it in 1980. “They planted on nine holes,” Vianna said, “and then later on the other nine.”

The winery did well enough to catch the attention of the Terlatos, who partnered with the Wilsons in 2000 Viannaand bought 100 percent of the winery in 2004. They have been “remarkable” stewards, Vianna said.

Translation: They have let this gifted vintner do things her own way.

First off, she said, “I don’t think about alcohol. I think we’ve gotten overly obsessed with alcohol. We do berry-sampling to look for sugar and acid. Some vintages you walk a block and you know [when it’s time to pick]. It’s 90 percent intuition and taste rather than brix, pH and TA. I don’t think I’ve ever made a decision based on brix. I’ve been pretty courageous. Or crazy [laughs].”

On the other hand, she added, “you can’t think enough about tannins. How you irrigate makes a difference. The more stressed the vines are, and we stress ’em, you get a good small-berry ratio of skin to pulp. Then when you pick, the riper the fruit, the softer the tannins. But if it’s too ripe, you’re really starting to lose varietal character.”

One of her favorite projects is the Elevage bottlings, a Bordeaux blend for the red and an unusual concoction for the white: sauvignon blanc and sauvignon gris (rather than the semillon commonly used in Bordeaux and Napa).

“Sauvignon gris is better for this,” she said. “Semillon in Napa gets a higher pH; the gris retains acidity. By Gris 2itself it’s copper-colored, often muscat-y.”

The taste on the 2011, though, is more tropical-fruit-and-nutty, with distinct almond notes, firm texture and a rich finish. The 2010 Elevage red is even more luxuriant, and the ’11 cab showed classic Stags Leap structure and old-school levels of acidity and minerality. All are supremely stellar efforts.

As the winery has grown — up to 17,000 cases a year, although the untoward conditions of the 2011 vintage dropped that number to 9,000 — and seen varying conditions on recent vintages, Vianna has relished the challenge of maintaining the quality.

“My advice is always to try wines from so-called ‘bad vintages.’ That will show you who’s consistent and isn’t compromising quality,” she said. “It’s easy to make 500 cases of great wine. But to make 17,000 cases of great wine, there’s something to be said. This is just as artistic.”

4
Apr
2014
0

Rubaiyat on the vine

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We owe the English poet Edward FitzGerald a toast for translating the lovely quatrainsOmar that comprise “The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam [left].” Among the wine-soaked passages:

“Here with a Loaf of Bread beneath the Bough,
A Flask of Wine, a Book of Verse – and Thou
Beside me singing in the Wilderness,
And Wilderness is Paradise now.”

“Today is the time of my youth
I drink wine because it is my solace;
Do not blame me, although it is bitter it is pleasant,
It is bitter because it is my life.”

“Drink wine, this is life eternal.
This, all that youth will give you:
It is the season for wine, roses, and friends drinking together,
Be happy for this moment – it is all life is.”

3
Apr
2014
0

Wines of the Week: March 31-April 7

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Everyday: I wanted a refreshing white the other night, and when I saw “albariño” on the label, I grabbed the Garzonbottle. What I didn’t know until finishing it the next night is that the 2012 Garzon Albariño is not from Rias Baixas but … Uruguay. The nose is a seriously alluring floral/fruit mashup, and the fruit flavors manage to be multilayered but precise, retaining the crisp, mouth-watering elements I was seeking. Mostly, I’m thrilled that so much great albariño is coming out of the New World (including LaZarre, Cambiata, Dancing Coyote and Abrente in California). Shrimp cocktail, lobster-infused mac-and-cheese and lemon chicken are among the great pairing options.

Occasion: Upon trying a third vintage of Denner “Mother of Exiles” ($67), in this case the 2010, I’m Dennercomfortable declaring it one of California’s very best Bordeaux blends. Hearty and harmonious, it’s one of those wines that shows a little somethin’ different with each sip, although the rich/rustic finish is consistently nigh onto endless. This red gem from a stellar, can-do-no-wrong Paso Robles winery has the structure to last for a decade (at least) from the vintage year. The New York strips we had with it provided one of those each-makes-the-other-better experiences, and it’s likely that roasted leg of lamb or even grilled burgers would do the same.

2
Apr
2014
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Buyer and cellar: the $418 case

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A couple of savvy local merchants, Darrin Minehan of Sorella and Erica Rokke of Zipp’s, provided stellar Cellaradvice for last week’s day-job column on stocking a startup cellar. I had decided that talking to people who were especially plugged in to what constituted value these days was perhaps more helpful than my just rattling off what I would do with, say, $500.

But the prospect of doing that is so alluring that I’m going at it here. I’ll only cheat by not including tax, since that varies so much and is not what we usually think of when we grab bottles and look at the price. To offset that, I’m using the Wine Searcher average rather than seeking out wines that are discounted.

I’m also tweaking another criterion. Instead of wines that could last five years, this is a mini-cellar of wines that will be opened in exactly five years, with a per-bottle limit of $50:

Schloss Gobelsburg Sekt Brut NV ($27): It’s got the yeast and the yin-yang of semi-sweet/dry elements that mark so many wonderful grower Champagnes — for about half the price or less.

Jon. Jos. Prum Kabinett Riesling 2011 ($23): Certainly an auslese might be even more age-worthy. But Prumwhen my friend Mark and I were enjoying this recently, he brought up a 2005, which showed great flavor and complexity. So I want to check out this baby five years hence.

Jean Daneel “Signature” Chenin Blanc 2012 ($23): This white almost surely could age for more than five years, but its beams of fruit and minerality will be rewarding at any ol’ time.

Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2011 ($38): Yes, California vintners can make age-worthy chards, especially the estimable Mr. Ramey. In fact, a mixed case of his wines sounds like a seriously swell Plan B for this exercise.

G.D. Vajra “Albe” Barolo 2009 ($38): It used to be that you got what you paid for in Barolo and AlbeBarbaresco. But supremely gifted young winemakers like Giuseppe Vajra have found a way to make glorious bottles that allow us to “drink up” mightily at this price.

St. Innocent Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 ($37): One of my favorite winemakers tapping into one of my favorite vineyards. Mark Vlossak’s wines tend to age better than most Oregon pinots, and this one from a stellar if underrated vintage has a nice long life ahead of it.

Ridge Lytton Springs 2011 ($38): Zin haters need to first get over themselves and then try some of the Ridgegood ones with a little age on them. This peppery, red-berry delight gets more “Italian” and a bit more stewed over the year. Both facets make a terrific wine even more interesting.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou “La Croix” 2008 ($47): Bordeaux prices have been going through the roof, but there’s still plenty of value to be found in the $30-to-$50 range. It’s never a bad idea to go for a second or third label from a fabulous winery such as this one.

Chateau de Pibarnon Bandol Rouge 2007 ($47): I loves me some mourvedre, and no place does it Pibarnonbetter than Bandol. I consider this winery every bit as accomplished as the spendier (and fantastic) Domaine Tempier. This deep, dark gem will be exuberant at age 12.

Chante Cigale Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010 ($40): There’s also some mourvedre (often a lot) in this marvelously multilayered blend, from a winery that somehow tops most of its neighbors in quality at half the price or less.

Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses Priorat 2011 ($37): Best I can tell, Palacios is incapable of making less-Terrassesthan-stellar wines. The Finca Dofi that sells for twice the price is one of Spain’s greatest products, but this layered, lovely and earthy garnacha will do just fine.

Baumard Quarts de Chaume (any vintage, 375 ml., $32): Who needs Sauternes? Not me, with this  resplendent delight with great depth and length.

That adds up to $418 plus tax. I hated to leave out Washington reds and Chablis (and all of Burgundy for that matter) and South America and Australia, and  … well, maybe I’ll do another build-a-case list soon. The only thing for certain is that on any given day, the list would vary. And be hellacious fun to compile.

1
Apr
2014
0

Linkin’ logs: April 1 edition

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Up here in Tundraland, March came in like a lion and went out like a Ice Creaturewampa (gratuitous “Star Wars” reference to foreshadow an item below). But out on the WWW (world of wine web), some timely posts were found.

• W. Blake Gray shared a typical day’s worth of emails that we wine scribes receive. There’s more than a little verisimilitude in his account.

• Another fairly believable “report” came from 1 Wine Dude, around the recent brouhaha between the forces of Robert Parker and the rest of the wine-writing world.

• It was a day early — actually it was on his usual writing day — but the Hosemaster “introduced” a new and exciting brand. I want to have a tasting soon with his Carbon Footprint “What Glaciers” Merlot and Gray’s Strychnine Road Chardonnay.

• And finally, the folks at Jordan came up with a nifty “idea” for their sprawling estate: a Jedi training academy. The Force was very much with them on this enterprise.

1 … 44 45 46 47 48 … 106

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