30
Sep
2013
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Wines of the Week: Sept. 30-Oct. 6

Everyday: For eons, the grillo grape was grown primarily to be part of Sicily’s tasty TamiMarsala dessert wines. Turns out it’s pretty damn fine as a varietal. The 2012 Tami Grillo ($18) has some seriously racy mineral notes and tons of energy. But most of all it’s got fabulous fruit and great length, a mouth-watering white that would be easy to guzzle if the finish weren’t so much in the pause-that-refreshes vein. This is a really versatile food wine, certainly at home with the seafood and eggplant- or caper-based dishes from its homeland but ideal for any wide-ranging fall feast, up to and including Thanksgiving.

Occasion: Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley is one of my favorite appellations in not just the VCcountry but the world, not only turning out swell wines from a wide array of varietals but also often bearing uncommon expressiveness. The 2009 VC Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah ($32) is just such a wine, not only evoking the ground that produced it but tasting exactly a petite sirah should: bold and bracing with big black and purple fruit, chunky at the outset and smooth and hearty on the finish. Braising season is nigh, and this beauty can be an ingredient or accompaniment, as well as pairing nicely with duck and roasted meats or game.

27
Sep
2013
0

Straight from the vintners’ mouths

Wine tends to bring out the poetic ““ or prosaic ““ tendencies in many of us, not least among vintners themselves. A few choice words from those folks:

“Excellent wine generates enthusiasm, and whatever one does with enthusiasm is generally successful.” ““ Phillipe de Rothschild

Andre“Every wine needs a friend.  ““ Andre Tchelistcheff, Napa legend (left)

“Wine to me is passion. It’s family and friends. It’s warmth of heart and generosity of spirit. Wine is art. It’s culture. It’s the essence of civilization and the art of living.” ““ Robert Mondavi

“People of balance age as gracefully as wines of balance.” ““ John Jordan, Jordan

“Artists and poets still find life’s meaning in a glass of wine.” ““ Joy Sterling, Iron Horse

27
Sep
2013
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Wines of the Week: Sept. 23-29

Everyday: Strange as it might sound, I really like it when a Spanish red has almost as Tinetamuch “dust” as fruit on the palate. An earthy texture is among the traits that make the 2011 Bodegas Avante Tineta Ribera del Duero ($14) such a stellar bargain. Large and in-charge tannins provide start-to-finish grip, and the dark red fruit is racy and rich, helping make the finish almost lush after all that “dust.” Grilled sausage or slabs of pork/beef/lamb, or just a simple burger or pizza, provide ideal accompaniment.

Occasion: Throughout our recent Oregon sojourn, my buddy Joe and I kept whispers Crowleyand occasional shouts about a chardonnay that we really needed to try. When we finally encountered the 2011 Crowley Willamette Valley Chardonnay ($27), we could see why. A citrus//tropical/stone fruit melange with just-right ripeness backed by beautifully bracing acidity and fantastic texture made for a mouth-watering experience. The deft touch on the oak makes this a food-loving chard, especially with pastas, fish or fowl with creamy sauces. Now I need to find the Crowley chard from one of my favorite vineyards, Maresh.

25
Sep
2013
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Linkin’ logs: 9-25-13

All kinds of news has, well, bubbled up during my amazing trip to Nashville ““ strong suggestions: eat at Husk and buy Rosanne Cash’s new CD in January ““ including a bubble-licious crash. Also:

This article not only recounts the return of vinous artifacts to Afghanistan but also Oinochieclued me in on what an oinochoe is: a wine pitcher whose etymology derives from the Greek words oino (wine) and choe (a liquid offering).

• The always-entertaining Tyler Coleman takes a look at the risqué business of wine labels that push the bounds of propriety. See which ones made the cut here.

• My buddy Joe always has a breathalyzer in his car, which comes in especially handy on Boys’ Syrah Night. Now two companies are touting compact versions of such devices.

• Finally, this sign contains a not-so-hard but fast rule:

Wine Sign

19
Sep
2013
0

At Brits’ end

For centuries, the British have carried on a love affair with wine, with their finest authors waxing poetic (or prose-etic) on the joys fermented grape juice. To wit:

• “And wine can of their wits the wise beguile, make the sage frolic, and the serious smile.” “” Alexander Pope

Swift• “This wine should be eaten, for it is much too good to be drunk.” “” Jonathan Swift (left)

• “Give me books, fruit, French wine and fine weather and a little music out of doors, played by somebody I do not know. “” John Keats

• “Wine, one sip of this will bathe the drooping spirits in delight beyond the bliss of dreams. Be wise and taste. “” John Milton

16
Sep
2013
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Wines of the Week: Sept. 16-22

Everyday: We’re hanging on to summer here in Tundraland, but even when there’s a bit Menardof a nip in the air, a refreshing white like the 2012 Domaine de Menard Cuvee Marine ($10) is a welcome delight. Gorgeous aromatics and clean crispness augment tasty citrus and stone-fruit flavors in this blend of 60 percent colombard and 20 percent each sauvignon and gros manseng. Like most whites from Gascony, this firm, friendly white plays well with all manner of seafood. Me, I’ll be sipping it on the deck, even as the yellow leaves tumble down.

Occasion: I don’t care what anyone says, I am drinking some fucking merlot. Especially Leonettiif it’s as delicious and profound as the 2010 Leonetti Walla Walla Merlot ($72). Big and bold but supple and smooth, this mighty red is ample evidence of why many Washington wineries pour their cabernets before their merlots. Loaded with an array of red and darker fruit flavors and just-right acidity undergirding the plush texture, this baby lingers long on the palate. Pairing options range from slabs o’ meat to dark chocolate. Great sippin’ wine, too.

15
Sep
2013
0

Pairings of a different sort

I’ve really been into pairings lately. Not, though, of the food-wine-matchup variety.

It just has turned out that a buttload of recent gatherings have included a few of the same Zin 2varietal ““ three rieslings or zins here, two aglianicos or Brunello di Montalcinos there ““ creating an opportunity for intrigue and insight.

Part of what makes wine endlessly fascinating is that even thoroughly familiar varietals can come in such divergent versions that it’s hard to believe they’re made with the same grape.

This is true at all “levels,” all price points. The less expensive wines can differ mightily in ripeness/acidity (from super-jammy to tart), body (from lithe to dense) and structure (many cheaper ones are what we call “doughnut wines,” with no midpalate/center), all within the same varietal.

A wine’s origins also can make all the difference in the, uh, world. Sauvignon blancs from New Zealand, California and France almost invariably have marked differences in aromas, flavors and textures. Same for syrah/shiraz from Australia, Washington and the Rhone. Alsatian pinot gris is decidedly different from Italian pinot grigios, save for a few bottlings from Alto Adige.

And that’s not even counting the way the same grape from the same region, especially chenin blanc from the Loire and riesling from Germany, can be crafted into fabulous wines Rieslingat every stop between bracingly dry and nectar-y sweet. (Riesling [left] and pinot noir, widely considered the most “transparent” grapes in the way they express their terroir, provide an endless array of profiles.)

Another cool array presents itself when a battle rages in a locale such as Piedmont or Portugal between traditional and modern philosophies, or somewhere in between.

All of this creates a win-win situation for wine enthusiasts. You can get together with friends and try different bottles of the same varietal and figure out which style you prefer, and argue or pontificate about them. Or you can skip that last part, and just enjoy ’em.

In the zins pictured above, for instance, the Dashe showed berries and earth before getting raisiny at the end; the Carlisle was a knockout with delicious, darker red fruit and much more oomph in the midpalate and finish, and the Turley came on strong with the minerally texture and blue and black fruit.

The best news is, you don’t have to choose a favorite, especially if you’re “easy” like me. I liked ’em all. A lot.

13
Sep
2013
0

There goes non-rhymin’ Andre Simon

A few choice vinous quotes from wine writer and (Jancis Robinson’s characterization) bon viveur Andre Simon:

Andre_L_Simon• “Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant, every day more civilized.”

• “A man dies too young if he leaves any wine in his cellar”

• “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost; united and well matched, they are body and soul, living partners.”

13
Sep
2013
0

Linkin’ logs: 9-13-13

I’ve been doing more physical traveling “” culminating with this sign at the security TSAcheckpoint in Chicago’s Midway Airport “” than Web-hopping. But I was able to unearth a few gems:

• The ever-wise Tom Wark shares some interesting thoughts on “natural” wines.

• So there was this Nigerian princess, and she needed to raise some money to buy some old wine. So she sent out some emails and voila, it happened. OK, that’s borderline un-PC, but this story does make me wonder what would happen if even more Asian and African concerns got into the bidding wars for the world’s top wines. And since they’re waaaaaay out of my financial reach anyway, I can just enjoy the saga as it unfolds.

• And in the realm of, as the Pythons have it, always looking on the bright side of life, this recent study shows what many of us have suspected lo these many years: that drinking wine staves off depression.

• All of which brings home the sagacity of this:

Flowchart