Wines of the Week: Jan. 11-17 (belated)

Everyday: We’ve come a long way, bambino, from the days when the only Soave found on these shores was CoffeleBolla. Now, exemplary efforts like the 2014 Coffele Soave Classico ($14) are readily available. As Satchmo would say/sing, what a wonderful world. This lemony delight is both breezy and rich, kinda like a chardonnay with firm acidity. From the seriously intoxicating aromas (spring!) through the vibrant finish, this beauty delivers gobs of flavor and harmony. Bring on the fish tacos, or any tacos actually, or even any Tex-Mex food. The regal vocals of Kevin Mahogany are just as swell a pairing.

Occasion: My favorite California pinot noirs are from the western end of the all-too-vast Gap'sSonoma Coast appellation. The 2013 Three Sticks Gap’s Crown Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($65) is just such a wine, with layers of varying red-fruit flavors (from cranberry to red plum) and a smooth texture. This is a hearty but refined red with a lot of complexity on the finish. Now that Bob Cabral of Williams-Selyem fame is the winemaker, Three Sticks’ pinots might get even better. Serve this gem with roasted chicken or pork or root veggies. Plop on some Dire Straits for a perfect evening

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