18
Dec
2016
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Wines of the Week: Dec. 12-18

Everyday: Inexpensive wines from Chile can be an uneven lot, but killer bargains can be found among the whites. The 2015 Concha Y Toro Casillero del Diablo Reserva Sauvignon Blanc ($9) is just such a wine, punching way above its weight class with juicy, tasty fruit and a zingy finish. The nose hints at New Zealand, but the flavors lean more toward the Americas, ripe and bold and sassy. The acidity races in just in time, and the mouthfeel is kinda sorta sexy. Shellfish, either intact or chopped into a ceviche, is a swell pairing, but there’s enough oomph here for most chicken dishes. And a lady recently in the headlines for philanthropic work in the wake of Smoky Mountain wildfires, Miss Dolly Parton, provides swell accompaniment for this crystal-clear wine.

Occasion: For this of us who love big ol’ tannins, sagrantino is a stone-cold delight. And now, far from its Umbria nexus, comes a sublime Cal-Ital rendition, the 2012 Mosby Santa Barbara County Sagrantino ($38). This hearty-as-hell red starts soft and then goes dark, as in dark red fruit and fabulous late grip. (The tannins actually are relatively tame compared to most renditions from Montefalco.) It’s the ideal winter wine, made for stews, braises, robust soups and the like. The seriously sturdy “surf guitar” tunes of Dick Dale are made for this wine, both because of their tone but also the wine’s origins near America’s best beaches.

 

30
Nov
2016
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Linkin’ logs: 11-30-16

It’s a health and science kind of day at Linkin’ Memorial High:

• Good news on the health front for those who enjoy red wine or white wine. No new word on rosé or bubbles :o)

straw• Apparently, drinking wine through a straw will not provide a better buzz.

• The world’s oldest winery, as you might expect, is in … Armenia.

• Speaking of old, I’m wondering if an 8532 B.C. wine would be helped or hurt by decanting. … oldest wine bottle unopened

• The President-elect might not believe in climate change, but winemakers the world over know better. Thankfully, scientists are at work on it, trying to make the king of grapes better-suited for the future.

• Finally, the folks at “South Park” speak for me:

wine-toon

 

8
Nov
2016
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Linkin’ logs: 11-8-16

These are wacky times – hoping they become slightly less wacky post-election – around the nation and the world:

• Grape-stomping is now officially “a thing,” as more folks seek to channel Lucille Ball.

pool• Kinda cool, kinda not: A swimming pool filled with wine.

• If this works, it has a massive market: a device that lets people make wine that suits their taste. It’s mostly for folks who want only one style/flavor, but still …

• For a barometer of today’s election results, think wine, writes the estimable Tom Wark.

• Plus … a drinking guide for watching the returns.

• Finally, a stocking stuffer supreme:

wine-stopper

31
Oct
2016
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Linkin’ logs: 11-1-16

History, biology, geography and more as we scan the World Wine Web:

guzzle-buddy• Plug it and chug it: The Guzzle Buddy averts spillage (although I’m sure I’d find a way). H/T to my friend Mark.

• This study of the cheapest places to buy wine is unlikely to prompt me to move to Paraguay, tempting though the economics might be.

• A 7th-century BC “royal order for ‘two jars of wine’ from the king’s maidservant” is uncovered in the Judean desert.

• Smile and say cheese: A study has found that a certain dairy product indubitably makes wine taste better.

• Just in time: Pairings of Halloween candy and sweet wines.

• Finally, don’t fall for this alluring trap:

wine-kidnapping

30
Oct
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Oct. 24-30

Everyday: Looking for a white for all seasons at a reasonable price? The 2014 Maculan Pino & Toi Veneto Bianco ($12) macalunis all that and more, a righteous bargain packed with flavor. The name actually refers to the grapes: 25 percent pinot bianco, 15 percent pinot grigio, and 60 percent tocai friulano. The green-fruit notes sail across the palate thanks to uncommon crispness, with a great jolt of soft acidity on the midpalate and a clean, lean finish. Oh, I almost forgot the gorgeous floral and fruit aromas. This is a swell brunch wine, playing beautifully with eggs Benedict and omelettes, and a great match for pasta with seafood. The pristine vocals of Mike Scott and the Waterboys provide a perfect soundtrack

Occasion: The winery is beloved for its super-swell zinfandels, but every friggin’ vintage of the A. Rafanelli Dry Creek rafanelliValley Cabernet Sauvignon ($68, less if you get on the mailing list) I have ever tasted has been sublime. Maybe because it’s the kind of offering that reminds me of why I fell in love with wine in the first place; regardless, the perfect fruit/dried-herb/tannin amalgam is always present. Plus plenty of stuffing and focus and structure. There’s usually some black pepper, a bit o’ earth, more red than dark fruit, and a rustic, robust mouthfeel and finish. Autumnal stews and soups or rosemary-laden lamb chops are ideal accompaniments, along with the welcoming down-home genius of Mr. Willie Nelson.

 

22
Oct
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 10-22-16

Spanning the vinous globe, from France to … Wisconsin? Yessir:

• One more reason to move to France: At least one hospital has a wine bar for the terminally ill.

choc• Pairing wine with chocolate can be a contentious issue. Some say never to do this; I call bullshit on that. Here’s a fabulous guide to matching wines with different kinds of chocolate.

• OK, availability is limited, but what a concept: weed wine.

• The good news is … well, actually there is some good news in this article about a down year for wine production.

• Minnesota has some catching up to do with this trend: local wines by the glass in restaurants.

Finally, here’s my ballot:

wine-sign

16
Oct
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Oct. 10-16

Everyday: For years, it seems, the prices of really good albariños have been creeping up to and beyond the $20 mark. la-valSo it’s seriously cool to find a splendiferous one like the 2015 La Val Rias Baixas Albarino for just 15 simoleons. Smooth but lively, mellow but persistent, this lovely-looking (a fab shade of straw tinged with Key lime hues), this Spanish white has a striking herb/fruit nose, and the citrus and stone-fruit flavors are seamlessly layered. Spot-on acidity has something to do with that, and with the super-clean, persistent finish. Break out the bivalves and shellfish for this one. The pristine, incisive vocals of Judy Collins are another fine accompaniment.

Occasion: Any fool who still is thumbing his/her nose at merlot can just go to … the store and get minerthe 2013 Miner Family Stagecoach Vineyard Merlot ($46). It punches way above its weight class, delivering juicy, hearty black and blue fruit and fantastic grip on the midpalate. And what a finish, robust yet silky, just like great merlot should be. The Stagecoach Vineyard is one of Napa’s premier sites, and vintner Dave Miner ups his winemaking chops every year, it seems. This is a great autumn red, cozying up to braised or roasted meets and root veggies. I head through the grapevine that Marvin Gaye would be the ideal soundtrack for this smooth but hefty beauty, so let’s get it on.

13
Oct
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 10-13-16

It’s a wild, wonderful, wine-soaked world on the Web. To wit:

• Perceptions matter: the difference between flavor and taste, per Wine Folly.

fountain• There are great ideas, and then there’s this: a drinking fountain that dispenses wine. Of course, it was the fun- (and vino-) loving Italians who came up with it. These people know how to live. (The one at left is a different one, fyi.)

• The headline is a bit of a “well, duh” for those in the trade, but this take on wine labels is well worth checking out.

• I learned a lot about the tricks/practices behind cheap wine, and about winemaking in general, here — and so can most anyone interested in fermented grape juice.

• My friend Eric Asimov offers up a semi-annual chestnut: 20 wines for $20 or less.

• Finally, something for your (and my) Xmas list:

wine-socks

 

 

30
Sep
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 9-30-16

As John Prine notes, “it’s a big ol’ goofy world.” He might well have been singing about wine. To wit:

space• We have liftoff! Yes, China has launched some grape vines into space. Hope there’s no “Beijing, we have a problem” followup.

• Robots are increasingly prevalent in factories, but I’m a bit skeptical about them evaluating wines, which seems not only too sensory but too individual a deal.

champagne• My friend David White has written a fabulous book on a fascinating topic: “But First, Champagne.” I’ll have more on this later, hut in the meantime, NPR has a nice interview with the author.

• Another friend, Jon Bonné, has penned a fascinating piece about the evolution of white wine.

• As my friend Anna Katharine notes, the word “terroir” has officially jumped the shark here.

• No surprise here: Wine (and other booze) makes us happy. Or at least less unhappy. Not how I use wine, but still …

• Speaking of which:

wine-sign