5
May
2013
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Wines of the Week: April 29-May 5

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Everyday: For my biennial look at rosé (truth be known, I’d love to write about it Bielersemi-annually, especially in cooler months). I was able to talk to the charming, savvy Charles Bieler. Almost as fortuitously, I was able to taste his 2012 Bieler Pere et Fils Coteaux d’Aix en Provence “Sabine” Rosé ($12), a syrah-driven but light-on-its-feet delight. Evoking its place of origin “” Provence, bright and sunny, refreshing with a subtle undercurrent of richness “” it’s perfect for spring, or any other season for that matter. Like the best rosés, it’s suited for almost any food, from tapenade to turkey and dressing.

Occasion: Some cork dorks might turn against any vintner who becomes “too popular,” Loveblockbut not this cork dork “” at least when it comes to Kim Crawford, who with wife Erica has crafted another world-class white. The 2011 Loveblock Marlborough Pinot Gris ($24) fits right between Alsace and northeast Italy with its zingy beam of acidity, soft melony flavors and great lift and length. I felt like I could taste it hours later. Go for fresh seafood of any ilk, or even some herb-roasted pork and root vegetables. (Confession: In the course of researching this wine, a certain cork dork learned that Kim Crawford is actually a guy.)

4
May
2013
0

Mark Vlossak, unleashed

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Mark Vlossak is whip-smart and quip-prone. He’s incisive and insightful. So when the conconter of all those delicious St. Innocent whites and pinot noirs opens up, a writer is best off getting out of the way.

We had a wonderful lunch together recently, and here’s just a bit of the wisdom the Wisconsin native imparted:

On Willamette Valley vineyards: “A great site produces clarity. Dundee is perfumy flowers, Shea more intense, a profile of complexity and density. We used to say Seven MomtaziSprings had the most longevity aging. I was wrong; it’s Shea, clearly. “¦ The soil at Momtazi [left] is the epitome of “˜too shitty.’ “

On Oregon chardonnay: “For a while it was ABC [Anything But Chardonnay] in Oregon, but now we’re returning to Old World values. More people are being a lot more careful about what they’re eating, more fish and more birds and more pork, and chardonnay that’s balanced and has finesse, rather than a 2-by-4 slathered with butter, works there. The quality of the people making chardonnay is very high. “¦

“The expectation in the beginning was that we should make Burgundian pinot noir and chardonnay. But we got burned on [chardonnay] plant material. So you put it out of your mind, that’s it. We’ve had to redefine what we should do with chardonnay. We’ve collectively spent a lot of energy on, “˜what can we learn about chardonnay? How can we make Oregon chardonnay that’s as distinct and different from California’s as our pinot noir is?’ Diversity is very important; that complexity builds from the ground up, so I’m going with three clones and two rootstocks. And all old barrels, not stainless [steel] because I want less contact and external balance. 

On other white grapes in Oregon: “The volume story has been pinot gris. It’s a wine that’s grown for economic reasons. It’s easy to grow. People like it. “¦ Pinot blanc ripens later than everything else. For 10 straight years I was the only person growing it “¦ We’re gonna plant some riesling at 800 feet at Temperance [Hill Vineyard] in a really open, windswept spot. We wanna try to make some Mosel-style riesling. 

On cooperation among vintners: “Willamette is a great place to grow grapes. We are Lettincredibly fortunate that [Eyrie’s] David Lett [at left, back in the day] drove his station wagon up the valley and found this place. There’s no question it’s the holy grail for pinot noir. The real question is, have we figured it out? The answer is absolutely not. But have we asked the right questions and done the most research? I would say yes, more than any other place in the world. Cooperation, that is the huge strength of Oregon. “¦ The base of information has broadened absolutely tremendously in the last 40 years. So we’ll be asking each other, “˜Is it really better to have one cluster per shoot?’ or “˜Is this clone and this rootstock best for this spot?’ “

On the 2012 vintage for pinot noir: “My impression is that in 2008, if you didn’t make great wine, you need to find something else to do. Now, 2012 I’m not sure the quality was as ubiquitous, but the smart people made really, really good wine. At fermentation and pressing, the wines usually are not very impressive, but these were fabulous.

“There’s also a difference in that 2012 is a textural thing, not exactly richness but breadth in the midpalate. I don’t think people buy wine because it tastes like cherries but because of texture. These wines are incredibly rich and incredibly beautiful and incredibly terroir-specific. It’s probably the best Momtazi I’ve ever made, just insane.

Vlossak“It’s foolhardy to proselytize but I’m excited. We’ve spent a lot of years working to keep people interested and spending their small amount of disposable income. With 2012 they’re just gonna buy the shit. 

On other vintages: “The 2007s now are eccentric and really interesting. “¦ 2010 was the coldest vintage in 30 years. 2011 was the latest vintage I’ve ever seen. We were picking pinot blanc in November. Other than those two years, every vintage in this century has been warmer than the 30-year average. You can’t say “˜I’m never gonna grow syrah and cabernet in the Willamette Valley. They’re not ever going to get ripe.’ “

On his previous hopes of making nebbiolo in New Zealand: “It’s not happening. Our friends over there moved back to the States. That’s probably a good thing because it was kind of a whack job. 

4
May
2013
0

Wine and friends

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This week, I did something I had hoped would never be necessary: I deleted some comments here, and cut off the commenter. His statements were simply too toxic for my taste, and he was using this site to denigrate others (who had been skewering him as well, but in childhood parlance, “he started it.”).

I’m fine with people criticizing me, and even questioning my professionalism, as this non-gentleman did. I can answer for myself, and in this case I will respond, not to any trash talk but to the notion that one cannot assess wine objectively if one is friends with people in the trade, the wholesalers, retailers, restaurant buyers and vintners.

In a word, hogwash. Balderdash. Poppycock. Horsefeathers. Tommyrot. Oh, and malarkey.

FriendsNever mind that by hanging with these folks, I learn a LOT about wine and grapes and the people and processes behind them. Or that we find plenty else to talk about, whether in a vinous context or not: geography, history, ethics, politics, culture, etc. We might delve into whether winemaking is art or science, but we’re more likely to talk about art and science, period.

Never mind that I gravitate toward those who don’t take wine, or themselves, too seriously, people who realize that wine is there for enjoyment, to be talked about (or not), but never to be talked to death.

No, the key point is that when assessing wines, I know how to be objective.

I’m experienced enough to know that context matters, that at certain gatherings Tim(especially with those pesky friends) and/or in certain locales, a wine is absolutely going to be more memorable than if it were one of a dozen bottles I taste when I’m appraising samples. So I grade the former on a downward curve.

I’m also wise enough to know that those sample sips are just a snapshot, and evaluated in a flawed context, nothing like the way that we otherwise consume wine: over the course of an evening, usually with food. I do the best I can accordingly.

Bringing impartiality to the proceedings is what journalists do. I am sick to f-ing death of the attacks on my profession that have emanated from the right wing since (at least) Reagan. It’s hogwash (et al.). Of course we have personal views on religion and people and, yes, politics. But we put them aside when we do our work, and to claim otherwise is misguided, mean-spirited malarkeybullshit.

As simplistic as it sounds, there are two kinds of people in the wholesale and retail biz: those who are passionate about wine and those who might as well be selling widgets. I gravitate toward the former, and make no apologies for socializing with them.

Being passionate makes us better, not worse, at assessing wine: more delighted when we find something wonderful, and downright disgusted and insulted when we encounter swill.

Blessedly, these folks generally don’t traffic in swill.

30
Apr
2013
0

Linkin’ logs: 4-30-13

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Some might say the Interwebs is/are getting curiouser and curiouser. But through my looking glass, it’s getting cooler and cooler. To wit

• Are you a wine snob, a wine geek or neither? This handy-dandy primer from Katie Kelly Bell provides the litmus test.

• I used to say such-and-such was “the best,” but I’m working on changing that to “my favorite.” But I’m pretty sure that Wine Folly is the best, and certainly is my favorite, newish wine website. Madeline Puckette’s artistic eye, incisive approach and thorough research make packages like this one on wine glasses the very definition of “can’t-miss.”

• Finally, some images, a periodic table of wine followed by a gender guide:

Periodic

 

Wine Gender

 

 

28
Apr
2013
0

Wines of the Week: April 22-28

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Everyday: Neither the bottle nor the website reveals which grapes comprise the Cottonwood2010 Cottonwood Creek California White Table Wine ($8), and I’ll choose not to obsess despite its deliciousness. It’s spritely and clean with some heartiness from peach and melon flavors and just enough acidity. The finish is shortish and slightly sweet. For those who care about such things (present company included), the grapes are organically grown. Pastas or risottos with spring vegetables or shellfish would be very happy on a table bearing this, the tastiest under-$10 white I’ve encountered this year.

Occasion: After two recent Burgundy tastings, I’m not quite ready to say “Buy all the Pommard2011 Pommard you can get your grubby little paws on.” But no problem recommending the purchase of a buttload of the 2011 Joseph Drouhin Pommard ($45, a good bit cheaper via the link). I touted the 2009 in this space a couple of years ago and normally wouldn’t come back to it, but Laurent Drouhin told me that the 2012 vintage will be decidedly smaller due to hail and other weather problems. Refreshing and elegant with some nice oomph on the finish, this is classic Burgundy, equal parts feminine and masculine. I’m roasting a lemon-oregano roast chicken for my next bottle, but grilled fowl and Vidalias or salmon/trout would sing with this beauty.

26
Apr
2013
0

Telmo Rodriguez, telling it like it is

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I’m jealous of my friend Kent Benson. Not just because he’s an accomplished wine educator at Swirl wine school in St. Cloud, but because he got to take in a talk last night by one of TelmoSpain’s greatest winemakers, Telmo Rodriguez (at left).

Kent was kind enough to pass along some of the highlights from the evening:

• On the importance of vineyard sites: “[Why is it that] when we talk about Rioja, we talk about process ““ Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva. When we talk about Burgundy, we talk about vineyards.” … “Grapes are like loud speakers, to talk about places.” … “My wines are not signed by a winemaker, they are signed by a place. 

• On sources of Rioja wines, “Rioja Alta or Alevesa is not enough ““ you need to know the vineyards. 

• On time in oak: “We ask the wine, “˜How much time do you want to spend in the cask?’ “ … “A wine that is a maceration of oak is a shame. 

• On caring for the vineyard: “In the ’60s we thought growing grapes was as simple as: plant, spray, harvest. That’s like saying raising children is as simple as: doctor, university, marriage. It’s a lot more complicated than that.  … “It’s not a matter of biodynamic or not Biodynamicbiodynamic. A vine is something to take care of. It’s not a machine.  … “It doesn’t make sense to be a pig in your vineyard. 

• On natural wines and the use of sulfur: “What is a natural wine? Maybe a natural wine is vinegar. 

• On the wine market: “Wine is made by the consumer, not the producer. If you keep drinking bad Spanish wine, I’m dead. 

24
Apr
2013
0

Whole lotta learning

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So we did something the other night that we really enjoy: not only bringing together two cool couples who didn’t know each other, but also having an incredibly smart guy from the wine trade and a couple who were mere wine enthusiasts.

That’s a good way to avoid having wine talk dominate the night “” and it worked, as we discussed art, perfection, novels and all manner of stuff. But the wine novices also asked very interesting questions about our favorite beverage. So I checked in with my friend Denny to see whether he had learned anything interesting about wine. His response:

Dom“I learned that old wines can get too old, and a wine can get too old faster than I had thought. [We had two 1990 Champagnes and a Montlouis from the same year; they ranged from oxidated to quite good.] So drink what you have!

“I learned about the Merry of Merry Edwards [they had brought the ever-delicious Merry Edwards sauv blanc].

“I learned, again, that everyone loves Champagne. Ice cream, chocolate, Champagne. Everyone loves ’em.

“I learned that if people could talk politics the way we talked about wine, peace would reign. You can share, disagree, listen, hold forth, communicate every which way, without having to be ‘right.’ Maybe Congress should drink more, or maybe they should move the capital to Napa.

“I learned wine needs food more than any other kind of drinking. You can drink beer and hard liquor alone, but wine? Something about good food and good wine, it takes two to tango. Good food and good beer? Not really necessarily. Good food and good bourbon? Not really necessarily. Good wine and a good meal (and good cheese selected by the Wards!)? Absolutely.

“We learned about the family with the holdings under the streets of Beaune, that I would love to see.

“I learned how fast you can change a label. Small point, yes. But really interesting.

“I learned about carbon exchanges and how [our other male guest, the wine pro] Larry really cares about what he does and how he does it, A to Z. Impressive.

MOO-14240041 - © - Nick White“I learned that real wine people only talk about good wines; they don’t waste their time talking about bad wine. Something very positive about the whole experience. The way serious writers talk about the books they love, and don’t waste time on bad literature. They’re positive critics, if there is such a thing.

“[My wife] learned that if you drink too much on Saturday, you lose a Sunday. (She drank on an empty stomach, she hadn’t eaten a thing that day.)”

Good lessons, one and all, from a wise man who’s always striving for more wisdom.

20
Apr
2013
0

Malbec recommendations

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Finding a good malbec is easy. Finding one that’s a really good value is tougher.

Most Argentinian renditions tend to be acceptable for the price, but many are overly jammy or over-oaked, or both. The ones from Cahors (that reach these shores) are swell but often a bit spendier.

There’s a definite Old World-New World dichotomy, with the French stuff generally dustier and earthier and less fruit-forward. Some Mendoza malbecs achieve a measure of this. The wines listed below, then, are nice for the price, and represent the grape and region adeptly.

$10 and under
• Diseno Malbec Mendoza
• Dona Paola Los Cardos Mendoza
• Famiglia Meschini Premium Mendoza
• Finca Flichman Mendoza

$15 and under
Crios 2• Catena Zapata Mendoza
• Dominio del Plata Crios de Susana Balbao Mendoza
• Domaine Du Peyri Cahors
• Chateau Eugenie Cuvee Reserve de l’Aieul Cahors
• Finca La Linda Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza
• Piattelli Lujan de Cuyo Premium Mendoza
• Ruta 22 Patagonia
• Tempus Alba Maipu Cuyo Mendoza
• Terra Rosa Old Vine Mendoza
• Tomelo Mendoza

$20 and under
Cent Visage

• Chateau De Hauterive Chemin de Compostelle Cahors
• Jean-Francois Merieau Cot “Cent Visages”
• Tikal Natural Mendoza
• Trapiche Broquel Mendoza
• Veramonte Cruz Andina Mendoza

$30 and under
• Achaval-Ferrer Mendoza
• Ch. Eugenie Cahors Haute Collection
• Piattelli Lujan de Cuyo Grand Reserve

20
Apr
2013
0

Wines of the Week: April 15-21

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Everyday: I’m not much good at blind tastings, but I often can identify a zin from Dry Dry CreekCreek Valley, for its distinctive dusty/herby (some called it briary, whatever that is) red fruit. The 2010 Dry Creek Vineyard Heritage Sonoma Zinfandel fits that profile splendidly, as have the previous vintages of this wine. The tannins are just firm enough, and the finish’s rustic tones deftly evoke the ground from which this sprang. Try this spot-on earth/fruit amalgam with baby back ribs, either with sauce or a Moroccan spice rub, or medium-spicy Mexican dishes.

Occasion: I am nigh onto giddy over the prospects for grenache blanc in central CigareCalifornia. Two way-smarter guys who share that excitement are Tablas Creek’s Jason Haas and Bonny Doon’s Randall Grahm. The latter’s 2011 Bonny Doon La Cigare Blanc ($28) finds grenache blanc’s crisp, bright flavors melding beautifully with rousanne’s richness, forging a seriously harmonious beam of citrus and stone fruit, plus major lift on the midpalate. It’s a perfect pre-meal sipper, especially at 12.5-percent alcohol, and would be delicious with any rendition of fowl or fish.

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