11
Aug
2015
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Wines of the Week: Aug. 3-9

Everyday: One of the great frustrations in the wine world is how many merchants simply refuse to stock wines from Alsace. Virtually everything from that region is simply stellar, but you wouldn’t know it by most store shelves or restaurant lists. HelfrichThe 2013 Helfrich Vin d’Alsace Gewürztraminer ($17) should be a ubiquitous offering. It’s cool and clean, lush and lean and lovely; the florals are stupendous, the flavors forceful, the finish refreshing. Besides the usual Asian dishes, this wine rocks with grilled fruit, especially bananas and pineapples. And the criminally unrecognized Nashville thrush Gretchen Peters is equally apt accompaniment.

Occasion: An Italian red for over $100 that’s not from Piedmont or Tuscany and a bargain to boot? Yes SIR. The 2001 (or any Pepevintage) Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ($142) might be the best wine I’ve had this year, a hearty, chunky, million-layered beauty. Earthy aromas, stupendous grip and an elegant but hearty finish are hallmarks of this rustic gem. Fermented in concrete and made by the winery namesake’s daughter Sofia, this Abruzzi red shows just how amazing and noble the usually humble Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape can be. Duck, lamb, oh hell any robust protein will love being served alongside this wine. And the timeless downhome beauty of the Band is a a perfect soundtrack.

 

 

7
Aug
2015
0

Judgment days

Judging wines is exhausting. Trying to assess 150 of ’em in one day taxes the palate and the gray organ above it. But it’s also edifying and often entertaining.

BW @ SF

At this summer’s San Franciscan International Wine Competition, I was part of a great team that managed to mix in some wicked humor with some tasty juice. My teammates at various times described wines as “grubby,” “sweaty” and “vomitous,” even though most of what we tasted was quite good. (As in life, it’s always the snark that’s more fun.)

ChernobylA couple of my other favorite jib-jabs: “I see they’re making wines at Chernobyl again” and “Sometimes, cotton candy is added.”

At one point, the jibes were pointed inward, as one of our mates proclaimed, “I’m going to teach you guys about finesse” after she had scored some largish wines lower than the rest of us.

And then there was the dude across the street.

PBRPerhaps nursing a hangover — or perhaps in a state of what my friend Lin calls “SLD” (still legally drunk) — he came to his apartment window at about 9 a.m. to consume a PBR tall boy and smoke a cig. He then disappeared for about an hour and returned, sticking his feet out the open window and clipping his nails. Which prompted the line of the day from the next table: “It’s Chateau Le-Feet.”

Thankfully, there were revelations galore on the wine front. Our panel had an astounding flight of a dozen zinfandels: five double golds (all judges gave it a gold) and one “regular” gold. One of them turned out to be the 2012 Alexander Valley Vineyards “Redemption” Dry Creek Valley, which garnered best-of-show honors for that varietal.

InniskillenWhile some of the other best-in-shows were predictable (Inniskillen Niagara Riesling for ice wine, Wollersheim’s “Prairie Fume” for best hybrid white), surprises abounded. The best cab franc came from Argentina (Catena Zapata), but the top malbec was from British Columbia (Church & State “Coyote Bowl”). The top-rated gewürztraminer (Spy Valley) and riesling (Framingham) came from, of all places, New Zealand.

The Framingham won overall best-white-wine honors, while a Jeff Runquist Syrah was named best red and a 2004 Collet Brut Millésime Champagne captured sparkling-wine honors. (All the winners are here.)

But the true victors are those of us who get to sample, learn about and discuss all these wines. These competitions are hard work, but also great good fun.

6
Aug
2015
0

Wines of the Week: July 27-Aug. 3

Everyday: Not so long ago, a cabernet-based rosé was an iffy purchase. Not anymore. The 2014 Simi Sonoma County Dry SimiRosé ($18) is a dandy, and it’s 82-percent cab. (See if you can pick out the 1 percent of syrah :o).) Love the color (pure coral), aroma (berry, citrus, herbs) and flavors (cherry/berry-o-rama) on this one. Most of all, love the harmony between the fruit and acidity, the super-smooth texture and the surprisingly hearty finish. This is a cheese and salumi wine through and through but also would play well with herby Provencal or mildly spicy Asian dishes. The smooth but spritely crooning of the amazing Rev. Al Green rounds out a great evening.

Occasion: Burgundy’s wines generally reward patience, especially the spender ones. But with the whites, premature oxidation Roulothas been a recurring problem. No such worries with the 2012 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Blanc ($42), which is drinking splendidly right about now. It’s vibrant and refreshing but firm and focused, playful yet elegant. The nose is packed with melon and tropical fruits, and the flavors follow suit, all the way through the expressive, nigh onto endless finish. That’s why the lengthy, fascinating riffing by jazz piano maestro Brad Mehldau provide a just-right soundtrack.

6
Aug
2015
0

Wine wisdom from the source(s)

One of the great perks of being a wine writer is getting to know vintners: winemakers, vineyard managers and winery owners, who tend to be interesting people. Here are some wise words from such folks, none of whom I have yet met, alas:

Burnell• Cape Mentelle’s Simon Burnell (left) on cork closures: “Open a case of wine after several years, and you can have twelve different wines.”

• Vignai da Duline’s Federica Mocchiutti on why she doesn’t put “organically farmed” on her labels:  “Why would we list what we don’t put into our wines? We think non-organic farmers should have to put on the bottle the fertilizers and pesticides that are additional to the wine.”

Niepoorts• Niepoort’s Dirk Niepoort (left) on “wasting” too many good bottles in one evening: “The greatest enemy of a good wine is a better one.”

• Banfi’s Philip di Belardino on bottle variation: “Wines are like children. You don’t know what they are going to say in front of company.”

• Chateau Petrus’ Christian Moueix on pairing: “More important than the food pairing is the person with whom you drink the wine.”

4
Aug
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 8-4-15

I was stunned to see that for some friends son, school already has started in Atlanta (can’t imagine the air-conditioning bills). But then again, Linkin’ Memorial High is always in session:

• Wish I could write this good: Terry Theise makes impeccable points in this look at the “natural wine” realm.

Randall• Randall Grahm (left) is another of my very favorite wine people, and he’s always up to something. Now he’s raising funds to create a “grand cru” in Santa Barbara from 10,000 new grape varieties. Which got a hilarious skewering from yet another of my favorite fermented-juice folks, the Hosemaster of Wine.

• I had a ton of fun gathering the material for this piece of where Napa vintners like to eat, casual and special occasion. Learned a lot, too.

Trunk Disease• I wrote that story for a seriously cool new publication called Le Pan, which also has a great but frightful  article posted on a lesser-known disease posing a significant threat to grape growers.

• OK, so this take on wine pairing via zodiac sign seems like a reach, but hey, I do loves me some Rioja.

• Not sure how many push-ups I’m capable of at this stage, but this method probably would help.

• Finally, we’ve been doing a lot of work on our house lately, but, alas, have yet to add the sink or any of the chairs below:

Sink

Chair

 

 

 

2
Aug
2015
0

Wines of the Week: July 20-26

Everyday: I bow to no one in my admiration for chenin blanc, and wines like the 2013 L’Enchantoir Saumur Blanc Terres L'EnchantoirBlanches ($15) are a big reason why. There’s a bit of sweetness here, but the firm minerality and friendly acidity rule the roost; this wine is the very definition of tension. Oh, and the honeydew deliciousness (which aptly reflects the aroma) makes me wonder why I don’t eat more of the melon version. It’s bright enough for summer but has the body for all seasons, and the energy to provide a lift in the dead of winter. Pair it with grilled fowl or fish, plus summer veggies served raw or cooked (and yes, that includes difficult-to-match tomatoes). And the pure but pointed and poignant early work of Jackson Browne.

Occasion: Six years ago, I lamented in my erstwhile day job about how and why domestic syrah had Stolpmannever gained a foothold with consumers. Nothing much has changed with consumers since then, but a lot of California vintners have stopped making the stuff, especially in hot-weather sites. The 2012 Stolpman Ballard Canyon Syrah ($28) comes from a cooler climate and thus has the stony texture and structure of its Northern Rhone counterparts. But the dark red fruit is pure California goodness, while the finish is hearty but refined. Marinate some of the cheaper cuts of meat (flank or hanger steak, lamb shoulder), onions and peppers and grill away. Plop on some classic Johnny Cash to round out the pairings.

 

31
Jul
2015
0

Gleanings: 7-31-15

I’m behind on, well, everything, including some anecdotes from my wine world:

• I probably have mentioned how much I enjoy getting daily missives from a website called Delancey Place, which disseminates brief portions of stellar nonfiction books. Loved (and learned a lot from) this passage from “The Widow Clicquot” by Tilar J. Mazzeo:

Dom perignon“Dom Pérignon [left] was justly famous for his superb skills as a blender — but his legendary wines did not have bubbles. This is one of the great ironies — we might even say great deceptions of wine history, for conventional wisdom tells us that Dom Pérignon was the delighted inventor of champagne. He is supposed to have quipped to one of his sandal-shod brothers, ‘Come quickly! I am drinking the stars!’ Yet it only made sense that Dom Pérignon wanted to rid champagne of its bubbles. There was no market for sparkling wines yet. In France, nobody wanted them. So, over the course of the next decade, Dom Pérignon dedicated himself to experimenting with ways to stop the development of bubbles.”

• Speaking of bubbles, a couple of Champagnes were among my favorite discoveries at the annual Saint Thibault Day event link in beautiful Frogtown. The Drappier Brut Carte d’Or was simply stunning, full of energy and flavor and endless layers. My friend Jason had heartily recommended Pierre Caillot’s bubbles recently, and my first actual encounter BW & Colleenexceeded the resulting high expectations. The winery’s Grand Reserve is yeasty/citrusy splendor, nigh onto perfection. (That’s me with one of the dearest people I know, Colleen Colbeck), at the Champagne “Rue.”

• One of our best wine writers is moving on to other ventures, alas. But Bill St. John’s farewell column in the Chicago Tribune is a gem. It’s all about what he has learned over the years, including this gem: “Wine is the sort of alcoholic beverage that does not destroy but enriches life, does not distort but clarifies perspective, does not seduce except in a way worth being seduced.” Truer words have never been spoken.

• A couple of recent Star Tribune columns had, as usual, to be trimmed for space, so I left out some cool stuff. In a look at how consumers are much less varietally oriented, Kowalski‘s Brian Mallie had this to say when asked if local shoppers are more likely to ask staffers for help than perviously: “No, I have not seen more of that. Minnesotans are loathe to ask for help. They’d rather chew their arm off and run out the door.  Even though they have more choices, they are not any more receptive to help than ever.”

And in a piece about three new high-end Italian restaurants’ wine lists, Parella‘s Mary Kole Macdonald made a distinction I never had heard, between “thinking wines” and “drinking wines.” “Preferably a wine is both,” she added. I like that characterization a lot; might be worth an entire post, actually.

• So might this: the aging potential of rosés. I recently had a 2013 Arnot-Roberts Luchsinger Vineyard Clear Lake Touriga Arnot-RobertsNacional Rosé, and it was simply fabulous, decidedly better than the bottle I had quite enjoyed last winter. The wine was focused and harmonious, in a perfect place. A few years back, wine maven Clark Smith semi-jokingly (I think) told me that all rosés should be set down for a year before being released. I’m not sold on that idea, but this wine as well as Bandol rosés certainly don’t need to be opened the year after their harvest date.

 

30
Jul
2015
0

Vintner-speak: Wisdom from winemakers

Nobody knows wine like the people who make the good stuff. Here’s a bit of wisdom from them on certain topics:

Magrini• Vignai da Duline’s Federica Magrini (left) on why she doesn’t put “organically farmed” on her labels:  “Why would we list what we don’t put into our wines? We think non-organic farmers should have to put on the bottle the fertilizers and pesticides that are additional to the wine.”

• Cape Mentelle’s Simon Burnell on cork closures: “Open a case of wine after several years and you can have 12 different wines.”

Moueix• Chateau Petrus’ Christian Moueix (left) on pairing: “More important than the food pairing is the person with whom you drink the wine.”

• Banfi’s Philip di Belardino on bottle variation: “Wines are like children. You don’t know what they are going to say in front of company.”

• Niepoort’s Dirk Niepoort on “wasting” too many good bottles in one evening: “The greatest enemy of a good wine is a better one.”

26
Jul
2015
0

Wines of the Week: July 13-19

Everyday: I’m a big fan of the wines from Spain’s Txakolina region, but some of them can have the acid-fruit balance out of whack in Jakuefavor of the former. Not the 2013 Talai Berri Finca Jakue Getariako Txakolina ($16), though, which is both racy and rich (OK, only a little rich, but that’s plenty enough for wine made from the Honarribi Zuri grape). This brisk but plush beauty boasts persistent melon and stone-fruit flavors and a wee bit of spritz, making it a nigh-onto-perfect summer wine. The 11-percent alcohol level qualifies it as even more quaffable. I’m hard pressed to think of a seafood dish short of salmon that wouldn’t sing with this wine; also can’t wait to try it with fried chicken. And the piercing but smooth vocals of Dolores O’Riordan in her late, great band the Cranberries.

Occasion: Mike Sullivan is one of my very favorite California winemakers; he might be surpassing his stellar work at Hartford BenoviaCourt with his recent releases from Benovia. The 2013 Benovia Russian River Valley Martaella Pinot Noir ($56) could be Exhibit A in the case of Why People Love Russian River Pinot: hearty but bright, with pretty, darker red fruit, some nice forest-floor notes and ample acidity and tannins. The midpalate and finish can only be described as lusty. Anything with mushrooms, from pizza to fowl prepared hunter-style to beef bourguignon, will play beautifully with this delicious wine. Plop on some Bonnie Raitt from any and every era of her fabulous career, and we’re talking a perfect evening.