5
Sep
2014
0

Wine wisdom hits home

Wine wisdom comes from many places, including these shores. Some of my favorite quotes from U.S. vintners:

Winiarski• “Some wine flavors are like an amoeba.  A perfect wine would be a circle, i.e. in balance.” — Warren Winiarski (left), Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars

• “Wine is food in Europe. Hardly an evening (and in some places, a daytime) meal is eaten which is not accompanied by wine.”  — John V. Seago, Pontchartrain Vineyards

• “God made cabernet sauvignon, whereas the Devil made pinot noir.” — Andre Tchelistcheff

• “It takes a lot of beer to make good wine.” — Lou Preston, Preston Vineyards, and many others

3
Sep
2014
0

Linkin’ logs: 9-3-14

In today’s lessons at Linkin’ Memorial High, we hit the heights. And the Hamptons:

• We know that wine can make us high, but we’re still learning about how high wine can be made. A new vineyard at the highest elevation to date will tell us more.

• We also know that wine has been around a long time. And now we know that wine parties go back at least 4,000 years. Those wacky Canaanites!

• We don’t know what kind of crises or quandaries wine lovers faced back then, but many of the ones going down today are pretty doggone funny.

• We definitely know that wine experts sometimes aren’t as “expert” as they seem. But even given that, there is value in having experienced tasters share their assessments.

• Finally, this person purports to know the difference between alcoholics and drunks:

Drunks

 

26
Aug
2014
0

Bordeaux, in their own words

The passing of Baroness Philippine de Rothschild was only the second-saddest event of last weekend (behind all that wine destroyed by the Napa earthquake), but it provides a good reason to pass along the bon mots (and mal mots) of key Bordeaux wine figures:

Baroness• “I don’t need people to talk about it. The pleasure of drinking is more important than what one can say about it.” − Baroness Philippine de Rothschild on Mouton-Rothschild (left)

• “All American wine tastes the same … like Coca Cola.” − Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Philippine’s dad

• “To me, opening old bottles is not very interesting; except if you are very rich and you can open three bottles in a row to find one good bottle.” − Marcel Ducasse of Chateau Lagrange, on bottle variation.

• “Tradition is only an experiment that worked.” − Emile Peynaud, enologist, discussing the Super Tuscan movement.

24
Aug
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 18-24

Everyday: Among the best movements in the wine world has been the spread of so many styles of vinifying chardonnay, instead of everyone (in the New Vigilance 2World, at least) just aping Kendall-Jackson. The 2012 Vigilance Red Hills Lake County Chardonnay ($15) is a great expression of the grape, with a very ripe nose and large-and-in-charge, gorgeous tropical and melon fruit flavors, but a minerally undercurrent averting a hint of flabbiness. The long, fresh finish finds the perfect balance between lush and lean. Try this delicious white with pork roast, seared scallops with a fruit glaze or a corn dog (hey, it’s State Fair season!). The tasty new Eric Clapton disc, a tribute to the late, great J.J. Cale, is a swell soundtrack.

Occasion: My way better half generally eschews sweet wines, but even she was wowed and dazzled by the 2012 A.J. Adam Hofberg ($30). AdamImporter Terry Theise‘s gushing about this vintage in Germany seems well-founded. I can’t remember the last time I had a wine with such energy, launching superb flavors (pear and apple) to the palate. The liftoff rockets its way through an insanely long finish. It’s exceedingly difficult not to consume an entire bottle in short order, so enjoy this with a companion. And with spicy food, Asian or Mexican, or some salty salumi. Like the wine, the greatest hits of Jackie Wilson will lift you higher and higher.

23
Aug
2014
0

Linkin’ logs: 8-23-14

It’s (almost) all about the numbers as we mosey through Linkin’ Memorial High. Oh, and an item that would be on my Xmas list but even I don’t want anyone to spend that much:

• As a once and future (and present) aficionado of this varietal, not to mentions lists, this zinfandel power ranking was a must-check-out.

• In the same vein, I enjoyed (and was occasionally shocked by) this look at 25 great wine innovators.

• More predictable was the latest update on the 16 most counterfeited wines.

• Is Two Buck Chuck the sausage of the wine world, in that you do NOT want to see how it’s made? Perhaps, this article implies. Great comments on this one.

• And yes, I really would like to have a wine-map tablecloth, but only after they get to a reasonable price, and as much to see what subregion the night’s first wine spillage hits. Make mine Côte de Beaune, please.

• Finally, this woman captures my mood at certain times of the week:

Friday

 

 

19
Aug
2014
0

Who said it? Who knows? Who cares?

Someone somewhere might know who coined each of these strings of wine-soaked words, but for now, they’re anonymous:

Magnum“The quandary of a magnum: too much for one person,  but not enough for two.”

“With wine at hand, the good man concerns himself, not with getting drunk, but with drinking in all the natural delectabilities of wine … its power to turn evenings into occasions …to lift eating beyond nourishment, to conviviality … and to bring the race, for a few hours, to that happy state where men are wise; and women, beautiful; and even one’s children begin to look promising.”

“Water separates the people of the world; wine unites them.”

“If a life of wine, women and song becomes too much, give up the singing.”

18
Aug
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 11-17

Everyday: Gone are the days when we had to search mightily for some fruit in super-chalky wines from Muscadat. The 2012 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet 2Sevre-et-Maine Muscadet ($15) is astonishing, no less acidic that its forebears of yore but with vivacious Meyer lemon flavors almost literally bursting onto the palate. It would not be a reach to have a picture of Mr. Clean on the label, so pristine is this beauty. The long and lean flavors make this gem particularly suited for the freshest of seafood, although fried chicken tenders and salads starring just-picked tomatoes would serve as swell pairing options as well. Plop on the clean, pure sounds of Miles Davis’ “Kind of Blue” and sip/slip into nirvana.

Occasion: Just as clean but with much more weight than the entry above, the 2011 Ermes Pavese Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle ($25) Morgexis a stone-cold delight from Italy’s smallest (by far) region, the Valle d’Aosta. This probably has the longest grape name extant: “blanc de morgex de la Salle,” and the vineyards are some of the highest in the world at 4,000 feet. The wine actually has some cool, mentholated flavors that evoke the Alpine setting, plus a wet-stone texture and stone fruit aromas. This white sang with a crispy prosciutto sandwich and probably would play well with most any pork dish. Because of the Alpine origins, let’s go with “The Sound of Music” soundtrack for the musical accompaniment. Also because it’s pretty great tuneage.

 

 

14
Aug
2014
0

Bordeaux-set film’s wonders unfold like, well, great wine

Every so often a great movie has a despicable central character. “You Will Be My Son” pulls off that difficult task with aplomb, thanks to stellar acting, a compelling story and a near-perfect ending (even if viewers might see it coming).

Oh, and the postcard-like vineyard scenes don’t hurt, either.

Son 1The setting is Bordeaux, and the plot is as layered and the characters as nuanced as that region’s better wines. Director Gilles Legrand shows his ardor for wine in the shots of grapes, the juice that comes from them and the bottles that eventually hold this liquid gold.

In other words, have a Claret at the ready.

It’s not clear at the outset just how wretched a soul Saint-Émilion proprietor Paul de Marseul (Niels Aretrup) is. At first he just seems like the kind of person you would hate to have as a boss. But then François (Patrick Chesnais), who has served him splendidly for four decades as vineyard manager, is stricken with cancer, and Paul must make decisions about his and the winery’s legacy.

Paul’s son, the bright but mousy Martin (Loran Deutsch), is exceedingly anxious to succeed his paternal unit, but Paul has other ideas once François’ son, worldly Philip (Nicolas Bridet), shows up. And the film morphs from an intense melodrama into a ghostly tale and finally a tense thriller. Like the wine Paul presumably makes, the layers unfold gradually but sometimes with a lot of oomph.

Son 2Aretrup masterfully portrays a character who at first seems merely domineering and arrogant but turns out to be far worse. “Wine is without mercy; it doesn’t hesitate,” Paul says at one point, and he might as well have been talking about himself.

Thanks to beautifully drawn characters and great performances, plus a director’s meticulous hand, the Oedipal theme is just one of many complexities coursing through this riveting saga.

10
Aug
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 4-10

Everyday: Slowly but steadily, U.S. wine consumers are tumbling to the fact that bubbles are for more than just celebrations. Wines such as the Clara C Clara CFiori di Prosecco DOC ($12) can only help further that notion. Nice sharpness and sweetness “battle” away and eventually create a harmonious, lemon-laced delight on the longish finish. The texture is gorgeous and the pairing possibilities endless. For starters, a few bellinis with any fruit juice (not just the traditional peach but also honeydew or even apple-cranberry). Fried foods of any ilk will mosey on up to this sparkler, as will a berry-laden salad or grilled lemon-herb chicken. The sweet and spicy duets between two titanic talents, Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong, provide the perfect soundtrack.

Occasion: One of the better grower-becomes-winemaker stories has unfolded in Napa. Tuck Beckstoffer’s 2012 Seventy Five Wine Co. “The Sum” The SumCalifornia Red ($20) serving as a prime example. Wines this deep, dark and delicious rarely show up at this price point in California. The dark red fruit beautifully straddles the ripe/dusty tightrope, and the smooth finish packs plenty of heft.  Despite its robustness – hell, maybe because of it − this is a splendid summer wine, at least when a grill is nearby, but I can’t wait to try it with autumn’s glorious root vegetables roasted within an inch of their lives.  A spin through the Black Keys’ instant classic “El Camino” album is just the ticket while sipping this rich, rootsy red.