9
Aug
2014
0

Gleanings: Meek to inherit, PB&J, bodily noises

Just because I have been a tired-ass on the writing front doesn’t mean that I haven’t been sampling and otherwise enjoying a buttload of fermented grape juice. A few takeaways: • Sometimes a guy (or gal) just wants a peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich for dinner. If so, I have found the perfect pairing: the 2013 Santa Ema “Amplus” PBJLeyda Sauvignon Blanc was downright amazing with just plain PB and has enough exuberance to play well with whatever jelly one chooses, and the acidity to punch up the accompanying potato chips. • It’s really rare to get an older wine among my samples from wholesalers. And sometimes it’s exactly what wine purveyors should provide, at least in the case of the 2009 WJ Meek Yakima Valley Merlot. This dusty delight had fabulous plum flavors and a seriously persistent fruit-tannin yin-yang. • I’d heard the phrase, but not as a wine descriptor. My friend Mike was serving up some old Italian wines last night and said the finish on one was “dry as a popcorn fart.” Not sure whether he got that from Mr. Parker or not. • Given my passionate penchant for the grape in question, it was no surprise that I really liked the 2012 Robert Sinskey Pinot Blanc. But the nature of the wine was quite the revelation: This beauty was all minerally texture going into the finish, than all fruit, gorgeous fruit, for 30 second-plus. There was virtually none of either element showing when the other was dominating. It reminded me of a Kongsgaard chardonnay a few years back that was ALL fruit on the palate, then slam!, oak took over completely. Both were exhilarating, if mystifying, experiences • Speaking of chardonnay, one of my favorite white blends of all time is the Zuani Vigne from Friuli, with four grapes playing off one another. But I Zuanirecently tasted a slightly older one (2011), and the chardonnay was king of the hill, the other grapes (sauv blanc, friulano, pinot grigio) mere knaves. I wonder if that’s typical. A few winemakers have told me that they’re super-meticulous about how much chardonnay or viognier they put into a white blend, but maybe those grapes take over eventually regardless. • Finally, we were recounting a Boys’ Syrah Night (at least what we could remember) in which my friend Brian could not get rid of the hiccups. On the ride home, my pal Joe had some typically sage advice for him: “Do not get in an argument with your wife. No man ever has won an argument when he had the hiccups.”

8
Aug
2014
0

Bordeaux: never boring, literally

Throughout history, Bordeaux’s wines have evoked lofty words, plus the occasional pun. To wit::

“At the Royall Oake Taverne, I drank a sort of French wine called Ho Bryan, that hath a good and most particular taste that I never met with. [This was the Pepysfirst named Bordeaux chateau wine, now Haut-Brion.]” − Samuel Pepys (left)

“I had to cook a dinner glorious enough to complement the Lafite. It took four days.” − Gael Greene

“The Wines of Bordeaux give tone to the stomach, while leaving the mouth fresh and the head clear. More than one invalid abandoned by the doctors has been seen to drink the good old wine of Bordeaux and return to health.” − Comments by members of the Jury judging Bordeaux wines submitted at the 1855 World’s Fair in Paris

“Between May 1985 and May 1988, the French writer Jean-Paul Kauffmann was held chained and often blindfolded in a Beirut basement. A lover of Bordeaux, Mr. Kauffmann recited daily the list of the 61 greatest chateaux drawn up in 1855. He strove to conjure up the aroma of a Chateau Margaux or a Leoville-Poyferre.  Occasionally a small miracle would occur, and the scent of black currants and plum would permeate the dusty heat of Lebanon.” − Roger Cohen, New York Times

“If Claret is the king of natural wines, Burgundy is the queen.” −Moliere

“He talked with more Claret than clarity.” − Susan Ertz

3
Aug
2014
0

Linkin’ logs: 8-3-14

Welcome once again to the Land of Linkin’, located, well, everywhere in the vastness of Weblandia:

• My way better half and I tend to believe that if there is such a thing as reincarnation, then we used to be Italian or French peasants (not Antoinettes or Borgias; just common folk). That ineffable bond was reinforced last week by news from France that is so French: Soon at least one hospital will have a wine bar for the terminally ill. Make mine a CDP, please.

• The wonderful newish site Grape Collective offers up an intriguing, not always predictable list of 10 great travel destinations for the vinous among us.

• Delving into the world of stronger intoxicants, the Daily Beast unearths a story about the provenance of those expensive craft whiskeys from newer brands, i.e. 20-year-old booze from a 2-year-old company. Blessedly, brands like High West are being transparent on this front.

• Wondering his your state ranks in the consumption of beer, vino and spirits? These handy-dandy maps reveal all.

• Finally, a wee bit of McDrollery:

McWine

 

2
Aug
2014
0

Wines of the Week: July 28-Aug. 3

Everyday: Gotta say that I’ve been underwhelmed by (and a bit aghast at the prices of) most of the wines I’ve tried from Long Island. So the lean and clean Lieb 22013 Lieb Family Bridge Lane North Fork of Long Island Chardonnay ($15) was a major revelation in terms of the quality and the cost. A breezy chard (pretty sure I’ve never put those two words together before) with lovely green fruit (kiwi, lime), this beauty boasts fab flavors all the way through a generous finish, and the 12.5-perent alcohol level is major bonus. The fresh veggies of the season, especially juicy tomatoes and sweet corn, are beautifully suited for this refreshing white, but any ol’ fish or chicken dish will likely do, thanks to the wine’s spot-on acidity. And a little island music from the estimable Jimmy Cliff is the perfect soundtrack.

Occasion: I usually space out on doing a “10 favorite wines of the year,” but had I compiled one for 2013, the Cypher2010 Cypher Winery El Pelon Mourvedre ($55) would’ve made the list easily. This is a monumental effort from the immensely talented Christian Tietje, who started the Central Coast winery after turning Four Vines into one of California’s foremost bang-for-the-buck brands. Big-ass, dark-fruit-and-earth flavors wallop the palate, but the structure is friendly and deep, and the finish lasts a full minute. Baby-back ribs were born to pair with this robust red, and grilled meat and game will cozy right up to it as well. The dark and brooding work of the National is particularly apropos as an added accompaniment.

31
Jul
2014
0

Words of great import(ers)

I’ve been blessed to meet many seriously cool people in the wine bios. Two of my favorite are importers: Kermit Lynch and Terry Theise. Here are some words of wisdom from those two stalwarts:

Kermit• “Blind tastings are to wine what strip poker is to love.” — Kermit Lynch (left)

• “And the wine had to be light in alcohol because the cuisine arouses a gargantuan thirst.” — Lynch

• ”[Wine] is the gift of nature that tastes on man’s foibles, his sense of the beautiful, his idealism and virtuosity.”— Lynch

• “A universe can live inside a speck of flavor.” — Terry Theise

•  “The truth of how a bottle of wine tastes is not how the first sip tastes, but how the last sip tastes.” — Theise

28
Jul
2014
0

Wines of the Week: July 21-27

Everyday: Twenty years after apartheid ended, South Africa has really picked up the pace in the wine world, making many more wines in an “international” Nuntiusstyle rather than the lean Steens and pinotages that the folks there tend to prefer. The 2011 Gabrielskoof Nuntius ($11) is just such a wine, a Rhone-style (shiraz, mourvedre and viognier) blend that is hearty and ripe, with just enough grip. Red berries and dust play off each other through the longish finish. The label reads: “A Message in the Bottle,” and the message is “drink me.” A stack of ribs or a grilled pizza with meat and/or mushrooms are among the many summer-y pairing options. The soundtrack: Paul Simon’s collaboration with Ladysmith Black Mambazo, “Graceland.”

Occasion: A wine’s first job is to be delicious, and a rosé’s first job is to be refreshing. The 2013 Etude Rosé of Pinot Noir ($24) succeeds Etudemightily on both counts. Loaded with cherry/berry flavor and endlessly fresh, this pink gem boasts beautiful texture and a mouth-watering finish, making it well worth the somewhat higher-than-normal tariff for a rosé. Everything from easter ham to Thanksgiving turkey will mosey right up to this beauty, but like the best of its ilk, the Etude plays well with all but the heaviest of dishes. And the cool, shimmering new album by Sharon Van Etten could not be better-suited as an additional accompaniment.

26
Jul
2014
0

Wines of the Week: July 14-20

Everyday: Aside from the fact that really good rosés from southern France make me sad that I’m not quaffing them on premises, NizasI love wines like the 2013 Domaine de Nizas Languedoc Rosé ($14). Brimming with life and boasting pristine fruit/acid balance, this syrah/grenache/mourvedre blend bounces between lush and lean on the palate, with a jolt of crispness on the finish. Sip it al fresco on the patio or serve it with virtually any Mediterranean dishes, from tapenade to souvlaki. Slip some smooth but spicy tunes from French actress/chanteuse Charlotte Gainsbourg on the CD player.

Occasion: Washington now rivals California in the quality, if not the quantity, of its Bordeaux-style Apogeeblends, and almost certainly has the edge in value. It would be difficult, for example, to find a $48 Cali blend as fulfilling as the 2010 L’Ecole 41 Pepper Bridge Vineyard “Apogee.” Bursting with cocoa, herb and red/blue berry flavors,  this robust beauty from the third-oldest winery in Walla Walla has spot-on tannins, soft but still grippy, and nice richness and roundness on the midpalate and finish. Beef or lamb kabobs and grilled portobellos will play well with this gem, as will the lively work of Mr. Sidney Bechet.

23
Jul
2014
0

Linkin’ logs 7-23-14

After a frenetic, exhausting hiatus (“retiring” is hard work!), the Linkin’ Man is back. Some semi-recent gems:

• A newish (to me, at least) website called VinePair pulled together a great look at 12 wineries of serious architectural distinction. That pairs deftly with the Drinks Business’ report on the world’s most extreme vineyards.

• Which demographics are most important to wine’s continuing rise in popularity? A recent poll might have some answers.

• The always delightful Madeline Puckette provides a puckish (and spot-on) list of wine myths that must die.

• It turns out that another star of Bloglandia, Joe Roberts, aka 1 Wine Dude, is also a pretty damn good musician, if this wine-soaked tune is any indication.

• Many wine lovers also are avid yoga practitioners. This video is for them. Or the rest of us.

• Finally, what appears to be a potentially cool invention gets some swell marketing:

Rubber glasses

23
Jul
2014
0

Wines of the Week: July 7-13

Everyday: I went to State Bird Provisions expecting to drink “regular” wine, but one sip of the Montaña Perucchi Vermouth PerucchiBlanco ($15) put the kibosh on that game plan. This is nectar-of-the-gods stuff, rich but clean, complex but focused. This Spanish beauty, which has been produced in Barcelona since 1876, contains 40-plus ingredients, and the multilayered nose and flavors − ginger here, “limon” there, sarsaparilla over yonder − attest to the deft hand at work. Try it with pork belly or roasted fowl or a summer salad or most any seafood; it’s hard to imagine any unsuitable accompaniment, actually. An exemplary new artist out of Nashville writing and singing pure, spunky, stone-cold old-school country (here and here), Brandy Clark provides a swell soundtrack.

Occasion: One of the great joys of wine collecting is finding a forgotten bottle. In this case, a doubly forgotten one, Cenitsince I also couldn’t remember which of my wonderful friends had given me the Cenit Tempranillo ($46). It’s easy also to forget how great tempranillo can be, but this dusty, lusty, robusty red provided a quick reminder. The nose is laden with the dark red fruit and spices to come, and the texture rolls between rough and supple through the near-endless finish. Break out some big ol’ portabello mushrooms or a slab of meat and plop them on the grill to enjoy with this Spanish red. On the music front, try some White with this red − Jack White’s dandy new disc, “Lazaretto.”