12
Mar
2014
0

‘Most delightful’ words on wine

“Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are” might be the best-known quotation from the French gastronome Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826), but many of his wisest words concerned his favorite beverage. To wit:

Anthelme• “A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine.”

• “A hard drinker, being at the table, was offered grapes for dessert. ‘Thank you,’ said he, pushing the dish away from him, ‘but I am not in the habit of taking my wine in pills.’ ”

• “Wine, the most delightful of drinks, whether we owe it to Noah, who planted the wine, or to Bacchus, who pressed the juice from the grape, goes back to the childhood of the world.”

• “Burgundy makes you think of silly things, Bordeaux makes you talk of them, and Champagne makes you do them.”

• “The discovery of a new vineyard does more for the happiness of mankind than the discovery of a new star.”

9
Mar
2014
0

The state of Washington state

The elbow poke to my ribs was actually gentle, meaning I had probably done what I set out to do.

The nudge was delivered by Chad Johnson, winemaker at Dusted Valley, at a panel discussion on wines from the Great Northwest. I had been mulling over what to say that was accurate and befitting a professional journalist, a role I play five days a week but also strive to maintain on this site, aside from a few f-bombs here and pointed retorts to commenters there.

The goal was sharing my ardor for Washington’s wines without coming off as a PR arm for the state. So: “I’m Seannot here to say that Washington makes the best wines in the world, but the wines are world-class and the quality-to-price ratio is great at all levels.”

Later in the presentation, moderator Sean Sullivan (at left, with Chad in the middle) of the stellar Washington Wine Report posted statistics that expressed what I was trying to say much more clearly. A chart recounted the wines earning 90 or more points over four years (2009-12) by the Wine Spectator. Washington had not only the highest percentage of wines getting those scores (48 percent) but the lowest average bottle price ($43).

And neither race was particularly close, except for Washington’s neighbor, Oregon (43 percent earning 90+, average price $49). California and Italy had just 34 percent of their wines reach that height, and their average prices were $71 and $66, respectively.

And tasting Washington’s wines at three events over three days brought home the overall quality even more — even though I was focused mostly on stuff I haven’t tried and passing on a lot of wines I already knew to be great values. Among the highlights:

Riveting riesling: At a wine dinner at the fabulous restaurant Meritage, the first wines were rieslings. The 2008 and ’09 Chateaus Ste. Michelle “Eroica” were a little short of the acidity I like, but the ripe orange/tangerine flavors proved quite alluring. The 2012 Poet’s Leap Columbia Valley Riesling was a knockout, very firm and focused, with an energetic and near-endless finish. It ranked with a 2012 Smith-Madrone as my favorite domestic rieslings in recent years.

Not Laura Ashley: I kept on bollixing the name of the winery that I urged a raft of wholesalers to try at Lauren AshtonMonday’s trade tasting. It’s Lauren Ashton Cellars, no relation to the kinda-sorta-chic women’s clothier. A dentist named Kit Singh has brought his expertise in chemistry to this endeavor, crafting beautifully defined varietals and Rhône and Bordeaux blends. Every taste was thrilling. One of my favorite wholesalers thanked me profusely for the tip, which also was kinda thrilling.

Make mine merlot: Leonetti’s 2012 Walla Walla Merlot is nigh onto perfection: gorgeous fruit, just-right grip, lush but elegant mid-palate and finish. It’s not trying to be a cabernet, which some West Coast merlots are guilty of; it just wants to be the best that merlot can be. Mission accomplished.

Low prices, high value: Covington Cellars offered up a $15 cab that is a screamin’ bargain and a really nice $25 sangiovese. Cabernet sauvignon is now the most widely grown grape in the state, and sangiovese has a lot of people in the Evergreen State excited about its potential. These are swell entrees into what those grapes can do there.

Hello, old friend: I had splendid sips of Pacific Rim riesling, McKinley Springs chenin blanc and Northstar’s merlots, nice reaquaintances.  But I was seriously wowed by Gramercy Cellars’ two syrahs, the 2010 Lagniappe  and the 2011 Les Collines Vineyard, 2011 “The Third Man” Rhone blend plus the 2011 Phinny Hill cab. Priced from $48 to $55, they are super values — like so many of their Washington brethren.

8
Mar
2014
0

Wines of the Week: March 3-9

Everyday: My nomination for most unfairly ignored varietal is pinot blanc, and few regions let it shine more Aloisthan Alto Adige in the Italian Alps. Actually, a more specific name of the local mountain chain is on the label of the  2012 Alois Lageder Dolomiti Pinot Bianco ($13). Glorious melon and citrus fruit play with a super-friendly give way to a super-friendly midpalate jolt of wet stone and a near-endless refreshing finish. Try it with shrimp on the barbie or with cocktail sauce or some baked ham with mac and cheese. And bring on a buttload more pinot blanc, and more grapes, period, that grow in the Dolomites.

Occasion: Among California winemakers, Ehren Jordan has few peers. The wines he crafted at Turley last for a decade-Failla 2plus, and he has been turning out steller stiff from Sonoma since opening the Failla winery. The 2012 Failla Keefer Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($47) is stunning, at least for a California pinot: lush but elegant, earthy but refined, with perfectly ripe fruit dancing with just-right acidity. Pastas with richer sauces, grilled or roasted fowl and almost anything with Parmiggiano-Reggiano in or on it will sing with this delicious red.

8
Mar
2014
0

Parlez-vous vin?

It makes sense that great French writers would have interesting thoughts on their country’s longtime favorite beverage. And so they do:

“The Weinbach style is unapologetically feminine, because, as Laurence Faller says, ‘Wines are meant to be drunk, not just tasted. God made only water, but man made wine.’ ” — Victor Hugo

It is time to get drunk! So as not to be the martyred slaves of Time, get drunk; get drunk without stopping! On wine, on poetry, or on love, as you wish.” — Charles Baudelaire

Dumas“Wine is the intellectual part of the meal, meats are the material part.”  — Alexandre Dumas (left)

“Within the bottle’s depths, the wine’s soul sang one night.” — Baudelaire

“When in joy we tap the cask
All our dreams bring what we ask.
Drink it! Drink it! Kindly Friend,
Then our cares will swiftly end,
Drink to you, then drink to me,
Pledge our dual prosperity.”
— Old French Poem

 

6
Mar
2014
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-6-14

It’s a wild, wide wine world out there. Witness these happenings:

• France produces fantastic wines at all price points and is a wonderful place to visit. The people are generally nicer than the many outsiders think, but they can be pretty whack: first Jerry Lewis, and now this odd quaffing trend.

• So you want to be a sommelier? Better prepare mightily, since there apparently is not a more difficult test.

• Sex, wine and rock ‘n’ roll, all at the same time? Believe it.

• I’m not fully convinced that Jesus was the son of a deity, but there’s no question that a great philosopher and tone-setter never walked the Earth. So I’m not sure we should be trying to re-concoct his miracles. 

• Finally, today’s hygiene clinic:

Shower

4
Mar
2014
0

Napa gleanings: snakes, slopes and $4,333 wine

Some notes, quotes and anecdotes from the week leading up to and including the Premiere Napa barrel tasting.

• Barnett Vineyards makes wonderful wine atop Spring Mountain, and one of its choicest vineyards is Fionacalled Rattlesnake Hill, apparently with good reason. I asked proprietor Fiona Barnett if there still were rattlers up there, and she smiled and said “we killed about 10 of ’em last year.” Add that to the list of winery jobs I will not not seeking.

• The rain amounts people in Napa got from the mid-February downfalls varied wildly. In the valley, most folks said they received 5 to 6 inches. Atop Spring Mountain, Charlie Smith of Smith-Madrone said they got about 16 inches. Those hilltops generally do get more precipitation, but their steep vineyards drain so well that there is no problem with standing water. By the way, Smith-Madrone’s 2012 riesling is about as good as any domestic version of this fabulous grape as I have encountered.

• Tom Thornton grew up in Tundraland — his dad was the best-dressed journalist in the Minneapolis Star Tribune newsroom when I arrived Thomas — and wisely escaped. He now owns The Grade Cellars in Calistoga and was even wiser to hire Thomas Rivers Brown (right) as his winemaker. I asked Tom a question that I ask all winery owners: Are you in the room when the final blends are made? “Yes,” he said, “but I don’t know what happens after I leave the room.”

• I ran into blogger W. Blake Gray and we discussed, among other things, the cutbacks in food coverage at his former newspaper, the San Francisco Chronicle. I lamented that editors who are focused on coverage that’s “local local local” don’t seem to grasp the fact that food is as “local” as it gets because it’s in everybody’s home, and the same goes for wine, although in fewer households but still a significant number. Blake wondered when these powers-that-be will recognize that “all people want to read about is food and sports.”

And yes, I did get a taste of the Scarecrow lot than ended up going for more than $4,00o a bottle. It was fantastic, but I wouldn’t pay a penny over $3,900 for it.

1
Mar
2014
0

Facts and go-figures

Perhaps the most edifying session at the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers included presentations by John Gillespie (Wine Market Council, Wine Opinions), Rob McMillan (Silicon Valley Banks) and Bill Cascio (Glazer’s distribution). Some stats and facts from them as well as Wines & Vines magazine research shared by editor Jim Gordon:

20.3 The number of years it will take to break even when buying a 40-acre lot to plant and building a winery McMillanon the Central Coast (McMillan, left)

11 million The number of Americans who make 90 percent of all wine purchases over $20 and 40 percent of the $10-$20 purchases Gillespie)

9 The percentage growth in direct-to-consumers sales (Gordon)

54-46 The male-female percentages of high-frequency wine drinkers — those who drink wine several times a a week (Gillespie)

64 The percentage of high-frequency wine drinkers who buy wine after tasting it, at both stores and winery tasting rooms (Gillespie)

68 million The number of cases consumed in restaurants and bars last year; retail stores sold 292 million cases (Gordon)

Cascio6 The number of wholesalers that control 60 percent of U.S. wine distribution (Cascio, at left)

54 percent of high-frequency drinkers in the Baby Boomer generation who spend $1,000 to $5,000 a year on wine; for Gen X, it’s 49 percent, for Millennials 43 percent (Gillespie)

56 The number of U.S. wineries making 500,000 or more cases a year, accounting for 83 percent of the nation’s production; 2,828 wineries making fewer than 1,000 cases account for 0.4 percent of the production (Gordon)

6.32 The sales-growth percentage from the year ending last Sept. 30; in 2007, that figure was 22.3 percent (McMillan)

• Because high-end wines are in limited supply, there is no downward pressure on prices (McMillan)

• The biggest influence on high-frequency wine drinkers is a recommendation from a wine-knowledgeable Gillespiefriend, followed by a recommendation from a wine-shop staffer, a recommendation from a sommelier and then recommendations from (in order) the Wine Spectator, the Wine Enthusiast and Wine Advocate (Gillespie)

•  Members of Generation X spend a higher proportion of their income on wine than Baby Boomers or Millennials (McMillan)

1
Mar
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Feb. 24-March 2

Everyday: I have had only a few wines from Slovenia, but if there are more like the 2012 Marjan Simcic Goriška Brda Simcic 2Sauvignonasse ($19), I dearly hope to get them into our regular rotation. This stirring, sensational white from just across the Italian border is loaded with flavor and energy, its citrusy zinginess tingling the midpalate and providing a sensuous finish. It’s the perfect salve for this wretched-beyond-words winter. The grape, btw, is not sauvignon anything but rather friulano. This zesty white will shine with all manner of seafood preparations, from rich to briny.

Occasion: It’s Interchangeable Picks Week here, with both wines costing about the same and suited for all occasions. GrignolinoThey’re also made from too-rarely-seen grapes. I had never heard of grignolino until sipping, and savoring, the 2012 Heitz Napa Valley Grignolino ($22, only $19 if purchased from the winery) last week. It makes me admire Joe Heitz even more, because he insisted on continuing to make the varietal known in Italy as “the little strawberry” when planting cabernet on his prime Napa land would have made more financial sense. This is as clean as red wine gets, with its namesake red-berry flavors and a brisk but not brief finish. Chicken quesdaillas, herbed pork roast and soft cheeses would all make for swell accompaniments.

28
Feb
2014
0

Sparkling words on Champagne

Perhaps more than any other type of wine, Champagne inspires great thoughts. Or at least interesting ones:

“Champagne…the wine of kings, the king of wines.” – Guy de Maupassant

Bette“There comes a time in every woman’s life when the only thing that helps is a glass of Champagne” – Bette Davis

“No government could survive without Champagne. Champagne in the throats of our diplomatic people is like oil in the wheels of an engine.” – Joseph Dargent

“A magnum of Champagne is the perfect amount for two people – if only one is drinking! – Proverb in Champagne

“Champagne is the only wine that enhances a woman’s beauty.”  – Madame Pompadour, mistress of King Louis X