5
Nov
2013
0

Like a movie – or three

I expected to find swell wine during two weeks in Italy. I also expected to find cool wine bars.

What I didn’t expect was that one of the very best wines would be made across the street from our hotel. Or that a reasonably priced wine bar would be perched above one of the toniest piazzas in Europe.

RavelloOne of the trip’s highlights was a lunch on a perfect day next to railing overlooking a “dragon’s gulch,” fantastic old and new edifices hugging the opposite hillside and the multihued Mediterranean 800 feet below. It was like a scene out of a movie (this photo from amalficoast.com, as swell as it is, doesn’t do the scenery justice), and when our waiter recommended one falanghina-biancolello blend over another, we pounced.

And we were not disappointed. Clean and crisp, lush and lively, it was the embodiment of this region of otherworldly beauty.

But once the sun-dappled meal at Ravello’s Villa Maria was behind us, we had a natural skepticism that the wine couldn’t be as wonderful as it had been at one of those unforgettable meals in the perfect setting. We found and bought some, and it was Ettoresublime. And then we figured out that the winery, Ettore Sammarco, was across the street from our hotel.

So of course we went there and inquired about sending a case home. Unfortunately, the shipping cost was $110, almost as much as the wine. so we settled for two bottles to sip on our patio perched about the sea.

We already had tried a nice falanghina, and a fiano and a greco, at a sweet little wine bar in an unlikely spot: next to the clock tower right above the tony town square in Capri. We enjoyed half-bottles for about the same price as the New York Time at the newsstand below the Pulalli Wine Bar. The food was dandy, too.

And the view, while not as bucolic as other locales on this jewel of an island, was still pretty on-top-of-the-world cool. Again, a cinematic setting.

But our favorite wine bar was in Rome. Our friend Annette had told us about Cul de Sac, a couple of blocks east of Piazza Navona, and if anything she undersold it. Our first visit found us on the patio, in front of a quiet (for central Rome) piazza on a perfect night. The wines, particularly a L’Olivetta Cesanese, were fantabulous. And reasonably priced: Even Cul de Sacthe spectacular cesanese, my first sampling of this red varietal, was just under $8 by the glass. The salumi and cheeses (old Piave!) were wonderful as well.

On our second visit we sat inside, underneath netting that prevent wines being fetched from the ceiling-high shelves to conk us in the head. On both nights it was a festive crowd of mostly Italians. But no one was more festive that my way better half and me, savoring every last minute on those and a dozen other nights in bella Italia.

2
Nov
2013
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Wines of the Week: Oct. 28-Nov. 3

Everyday: This is not your father’s entry-level chenin blanc: The 2010 Louis Laurent LaurentVouvray ($11) is much cleaner and softer than the chenins of yore, with firm fruit (citrus and peach), light-on-its-feet texture and a crisp, lively finish. For a semi-mass-produced wine (20,000 cases), it’s quite distinctive “” and food-friendly, pairing deftly with most any preparation of white meat, sundry salads and of course goat cheese. A guy could do a lot worse than to offer it up at the Thanksgiving table, too.

Occasion: In one of those only-in-the-wine-world deals, the Walt winery is named after Walta woman. Katherine Walt Hall is also the proprietor of Napa mainstay Hall Wines, but her family has been growing grapes in Mendocino since 1973. So they knew what they were doing when they put together the 2011 Walt Anderson Valley “Blue Jay” Pinot Noir ($38) from several sites (Savoy, Annahalla and Anderson Creek). Delicious fruit and a hearty mouthfeel and finish are hallmarks of this slightly smoky (bacon fat?), lush red. Besides the obligatory roast chicken, other oven-prepped meats and fall veggies (root, gourds) will play well with this beauty.

 

24
Oct
2013
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Wines of the Week: Oct. 21-27

Everyday: For those wondering whether there’s a difference between pinot grigio and Pierre Sparrpinot gris, the answer is no. But there certainly are stylistic distinctions between most milder, consumer-friendly pinot grigios and racy offerings like the 2011 Pierre Sparr Alsace Pinot Gris ($16). The melon flavors are nigh onto sweet, but some deftly bracing acidity balances this baby out. It’s delicate and sleek on the midpalate and finish. This is the time of year to break out those roast-pork recipes, and this is the wine for those meals. But it also will play well with the squashes and root vegetables that help make autumn my favorite food season.

Occasion: Cambiata is my kind of California winery. It focuses on two varietals: no, not Cambiatacab and chard, but albariño and tannat. The albariño is seriously delicious, while every vintage I have tasted of the Cambiata Monterey Tannat ($30) has been profoundly enjoyable, and enjoyably profound. Rich and plush with soft tannins, earthy dark fruit and a touch of smoke on the long finish, it is made for autumn. Or winter. Oh, and I almost forgot the fascinatingly complex nose; robust, soft tannins and long, toasty finish. Serve this robust delight with smoked or roasted meat and/or stinky cheese, or just with a really good pizza or burger.

24
Oct
2013
0

Wines of the Week: Oct. 14-20

Everyday: Spanish whites have been a staple at the Ward household of late, before and Godeval 2after I wrote about them for my day job. One of my favorites is the super-refreshing 2010 Vina Godeval Godello ($16), in which the fabulous fruit and nervy minerailty fight to a draw. We grape nuts tend to use terms that can be tough to associate with wine, and this white is filled with one of those: energy. Crisp citrus flavors linger from friendly start to ample finish, and the mouth-watering acidity makes this an especially food-friendly wine. All manner of seafood, from brisk ceviche or shrimp cocktail to whole fish with a rich sauce, would make swell accompaniments.

Occasion: The cool 2010 season in Oregon produced red wines that show the Evening Landimportance of the vintner over the vintage. Blessedly, most Willamette Valley wineries are in quite capable hands, and certainly the 2010 Evening Land Seven Springs Pinot Noir ($45) displays a deft touch. The herb-laden dark red fruit is stout but refined, with gorgeous tannins providing even more oomph to the fruit flavors. The ample stuffing indicates that this robust red will age well, but it’s eminently drinkable now. Especially with roasted fowl (pheasant!) or hearty autumnal soups.

17
Oct
2013
0

When in Rome …

… One posts some wise words from the Romans of yore. My way better half and I are in the Eternal City this week, and hope the scheduling of this pre-trip post takes.

Do as they do, and as they say:

• “Wine is life.” ““ Petronius (or maybe Horace)

Horace• “Wine brings to light the hidden secrets of the soul, gives being to our hopes, bids the coward flight, drives dull care away, and teaches new means for the accomplishment of our wishes.” ““ Horace

• “The best kind of wine is that which is most pleasant to him who drinks it.” ““ Pliny the Elder

• “[Wine] warms the blood, adds luster to the eyes and wine & love have ever been allies.” ““ Ovid

• “Wine gives courage and makes men more apt for passion.” ““ Ovid

10
Oct
2013
0

Well versed in wine

They were poets, and we know it. They also were fond of fermented grape juice, as their lovely words attest:

So sweet it seems with thee to walk,
And once again to woo thee mine ““
It seems in after-dinner talk
Across the walnuts and the wine
““ Alfred, Lord Tennyson

MillayI drank at every vine,
the last was like the first.

I came upon no wine
so wonderful as thirst.

““ Edna St. Vincent Millay (left)


Where once my wit, perchance, hath shone,

in aid of others let me shine;
and when, alas, my brain has gone,
what better substitute than wine?
““ Lord Byron

And wine can of their wits the wise beguile,
make the sage frolic, and the serious smile.
““ Alexander Pope

7
Oct
2013
0

Wines of the Week: Oct. 7-13

Everyday: Best I can tell, the McKinley Springs winery is Washington can do no wrong. HorsepowerIts whites are gorgeous, and the 2009 McKinley Springs “Horsepower” Red ($16) is a refined, expressive effort. It’s fun to seek out the elements in this unusual blend: 43 percent syrah, 35 percent barbera, 9 percent petit verdot and 4 percent mourvedre. It’s even more fun to savor the dark-fruit flavors and just-firm-enough tannins, plus the sinewy texture. Pizza, pasta with hearty sauces, Tex-Mex dishes and roasted winter squash should mosey right up to this hearty red.

Occasion: It’s almost disappointing when the first encounter you have with a grape and genre of wine is so Quenardspectacular that you feel like it can never be topped. Well, at least my initial sampling of a sparkling wine from Savoie ““ and of the jacquere grape ““ can perhaps be equalled as soon as I find another bottle of the Andre & Michel Quenard Savoie Methode Traditionnelle ($23). This energetic bottle of bubbles boasts fantastic fruit flavors in glorious harmony with some brisk acidity. The finish is nearly endless. At a recent brunch, it paired splendidly with egg dishes, oysters and cured meats at a recent brunch. But like the best sparkling wines, it probably goes well with almost anything.

3
Oct
2013
0

Burghounds speak up

I could not agree more wioth the sentiments below, by Burgundy lovers past and semi-present:

• “Burgundy is not the designation of a wine produced and standardized in Gwynnimmense quantities. It is the general description of a great number of closely related wines, having kindred excellence conforming broadly to one type, but varying infinitely by fine shades, which is the pleasure of connoisseurs to distinguish.  – English author Stephen Gwynn (left)

• “Nothing makes the future look so rosy as to contemplate it through a glass of Chambertin.  “• Napoleon Bonaparte

• “She gets to keep the chalet and the Rolls, I want the Montrachet.  “• anonymous, Forbes Magazine, 1996

1
Oct
2013
0

Gleanings: 10-1-13

When hanging around grape nuts, it doesn’t take much of an ear to pick up some nice tidbits. A few recent gleanings:

• The conversation was about Vouvrays, and how tasty the ones that get to the hinterlands generally are. Not surprisingly, that’s the result of importers wading through a lot of dreck to get to the Soupgood stuff that might actually sell here. The truth, according to my importer friend Annette, is that “Most Vouvrays smell like either pond algae or chicken noodle soup.”

• I can’t remember if I jotted this down from Michael Steinberger’s upcoming book or an online article, but I like this analogy: Most of the wine people buy (meaning under-$10 stuff, since the average U.S. purchase is $6.88) is like fast food, and most of the over-$12 stuff is like slow food. There’s nothing, btw, wrong with either; this is about the intent of the producers, whether to make something with mass appeal, or to go for the cork dorks.

• I had a couple of wonderful meals at the new Nashville outpost of Charleston’s iconic Husk restaurant and loved the offerings on the wine list ““ beautifully chosen, fairly priced. But I wasn’t sure what to make of the format, which is categorized not by regions or grapes or Slatestyles but by geology: Alluvial (clay, silt, sand, gravel), Volcanic, Limestone, Slate (left) and Primary Rock. It’s a wine geek’s dream, of course, and could be an interesting learning opportunity for others. But I’m not positive that it actually will make the often-daunting ordering process easier for non-geeks. Good for Husk for boldly going there, though.

• At my first Husk meal, we had a quandary: My friend Albie brought a 1990 M. Chapoutier La Sizeranne Hermitage that showed virtually nothing upon first pour. It seemed the wrong age for a “dead” period, and the wine wasn’t bad, just utterly without expression. We pondered decanting it, but that’s always dicey with a wine of that age. So I chose a wine from the Slate category, a delicious Pasanau Priorat blend (grenache, mazuelo, syrah, cab, merlot). By the time we had finished that, the Hermitage had sprung to life in a big, beautiful way, but we had to leave for a concert. We glugged down a bit of it, and I’m guessing Albie enjoyed the rest of that puppy mightily the next night. Moral: With old wines, ya never know.