18
Apr
2013
0

The wide red range

I love wine (duh!), and I’m generally quite fond of others who love wine. But I have a hard time understanding “” and have given up trying, lest my head explode “” those who have a narrow view of what good wine is.

So I have little time for those who will drink only “natural wine,” even though it’s kinda fun to ask them to define it, or only European wines, or only big-ass Napa cabernets. Part of what makes wine so fabulous is the amazing range of flavors and textures that can be wrought by fermenting grape juice.

I have a friend whom everyone knows as “Burgundy Bob,” although he confides that sometimes he’s really “Barolo Bob.” But as much as he adores those leaner, quintessentially European reds, he also holds an annual “Zinfandel Night” that is always great good fun.

AraujoNow I’m wishing we had invited Bob to a gathering last weekend, where the theme was zins and something else, preferably unusual or distinctive. The latter adjective certainly applied to the 1998 Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet that my friend Cass (who always steps up to the plate mightily at these events) brought, along with a 1998 Martinelli Jackass Hill Zinfandel.

Those two wines proved how refined a powerhouse red from California can be. The cab also provided further evidence that the maligned 1998 vintage is aging waaaaaay better than the ballyhooed ’97s are, although as Cass noted, “the people who knew what they were doing made ’97s that have aged well.” The Martinelli was also sublime, voluptuous but undergirded with minerally goodness.

At the other end of the spectrum were a couple of lean, beautifully defined entries, including a focused, harmonious 1998 Noel Verset Cornas that my friend Mitch brought. For some, the wine of the night also had a European bent but hailed from California: a 2011 Arnot-Roberts Luchsinger Vineyard Clear Lake Trousseau.

TrousseauThis light red was beautiful at the pre-zin beginning of the night and fairly profound at the post-zin end. Color-and texture-wise, it could have passed for a rosé, and the herb-kissed red fruit, beautiful florals and spot-on acidity made for a near-perfect package. The estimable Eric Asimov took a look at the ongoing emergence in California of this grape, found mostly in France’s Jura district, last fall. I can’t wait to buy and try a lot more, from here and across the pond.

During the course of the evening we had some fabulous zins from Carlisle, Turley, Lagier-Meredith and others, plus my first-ever chili with mushrooms in it (thanks, Mark!). Even within the zins, there was a wide array of intensity and subtlety, freshness and rusticity.

Despite a rather limited range of varietals, the night included most everything red wine has to offer “” for a crew of cork dorks who knew how to appreciate that breadth. My peops.

17
Apr
2013
0

Dooley noted: More on Stephen Ross Dooley

I thoroughly enjoyed yacking with winemaker Stephen Ross Dooley last month, and when I went to write about him in my day job, the constrictions of print media meant leaving some stuff out.

A few more thoughts from the Minnesota native turned Central Coast vintner (pictured below with his clan):

• Sites in the Santa Maria/Edna Valley area: “We now have a pretty good handle on what should be grown here. The first grapes were planted here by the Spanish mission in 1772. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn 1973 we had the first commercial grapes. We tried everything. Syrah and grenache do pretty well in a lot of spots. Winemakers also now have a pretty good idea of what clones they want. And we understand a lot more about row direction and density.”

• The climate there: “We pick earlier these days, a little bit with the chardonnay. With pinots, we want 13.5, 13.8 [alcohol] tops. Because of the cool air we do have a lot of acid, so if we pick too early the wines are too acidic. The average daytime high in the summer is 74. If you go downtown to the farmers’ market [in San Luis Obispo] on Thursday night, you’re gonna want to wear a jacket.”

• Trying wine while growing up: “My mom taught at Mankato State. Sometimes we’d go to another faculty member’s house, and there would usually be an Italian red that I wouldn’t like.”

• Farming in his background: “My mother grew up on a dairy farm in Michigan, and we spent a lot of summers out there. I loved being on the farm. I was a little guy, and those cows were huge.”

• “Farming” now, as recreation: “I still garden, mostly to relax, not for idea inspiration. I get more of those in the shower. 

• On how much he likes making and drinking chardonnay: “It gives me a chance to play, and with just 100 cases I don’t have to sell a lot out of state ““ and we like to drink ’em ourselves. We’ll be getting low and I’ll say “˜Wait, I want a case.’ “

13
Apr
2013
0

Wines of the Week: April 8-14

Everyday: An Italian-American film director making a California chardonnay with a CoppolaFrench name? It actually makes sense in the wacky world of wine. It also tastes delicious in the case of the Coppola “Votre Santé” California Chardonnay ($14), a rich but not too buttery mouthful of smoothness. The lovely tropical and stone fruit is allowed to shine, balanced with a touch of tanginess. Try it with fried or roasted chicken, soft cheeses or milk chocolate. And toast with the wine’s name, which translates as “To your health.”

Occasion: Tasting three vintages of the Rust En Vrede Estate ($35), most recently Rust en Vredethe 2009, has convinced me that it deserves its reputation as perhaps South Africa’s most consistently excellent high-end wine, at least among what makes its way to these shores. While the gorgeous nose on this cabernet sauvignon/shiraz/merlot blend evokes red fruits, the flavors are much darker: herb-laden plum and berries. It’s big and bold in the mouth, sleek and elegant on the almost endless finish. Like many South African reds, it could be decanted for a bit before quaffing. Try it with beef or lamb, grilled or braised, or with tapenade and other olive-y dishes.

10
Apr
2013
0

Charles & Charles & Joel

Have I mentioned how much I love this gig? Not lately, because my way better half sez it might sound like gloating.

OK, I’ll risk being a gloat-meister. I got to spend the afternoon drinking delicious wines with wonderful friends in the trade, many of whom I was way overdue to catch up with. Oh, and I got to yack for a good while with three hale vintners well met: Joel Gott, Charles Bieler, and the utterly inimitable Charles Smith.

Gott's 2I got to thank Joel for resuscitating Taylor’s Automatic Refresher (now Gott’s Roadside), where the amazing burgers and fries provide the perfect antidote to a day of red-wine imbibing in the Napa Valley. I also thanked him for his sauv blanc and zin.

I got to talk to Bieler “” who makes the Charles & Charles Rosé with Smith and his own eponymous rosé from France, both marvelous quaffers “” about vintage variation for an upcoming newspaper column.

He echoed what local importer Annette Peters had told me last week, that there’s more year-to-year consistency when the grapes are geared for rosé and made with skin contact for a day or three rather than the ones made as a by-product of red wine with the bled-off juice in what’s known as saignée. Makes sense: The latter wines are a secondary consideration to the red wines made from the same grapes.

KI spent the most time with Smith, who was funny and forthright. He said the name of his first wine, K Syrah, had only a bit to do with the catchphrase, that it was also about having something representative of the West (the logo resembles a livestock brand), and putting forth a “sturdy” image that evoked the wine.

He talked about his insistence on small yields, no matter the grape. He was not the least bit pedantic about it, but quite firm. In fact, he smiled often throughout our conversation as bowling balls thumped onto the lane a few feet away.

A former rock-band manager, Smith is a self-taught winemaker. I asked if that’s a route he recommends for others. He said it can work for someone who knows a lot about wines (plural) and “has a really good palate.”

This often gets overlooked in the wine world, that the person deciding on the final blend of any and every wine needs to be able to choose the just-right admixture. As those of us who have to check out a lot of samples well know, more than a few winemakers clearly do not Charles Smithhave great palates. Smith (shown here with my friend Lisa Impagliazzo and some larger man) clearly does.

Smith was wearing a bowling shirt from one of the world’s great music venues, the Rock ‘n’ Bowl in New Orleans. I asked who was playing the last time he was there, and after thinking for a second, he said “I don’t know. I was bowling great, and they were playing great.”

I asked if he had anything new in the works. Smith’s eyes lit up even more than usual as he talked about a high-elevation chardonnay vineyard he has discovered. “We’re gonna have some fun with that one,” he said.

And based on all the evidence in his bottles to date, the rest of us are gonna have some fun drinking it.

 

7
Apr
2013
0

Linkin’ logs 4-7-13

Spanning the world-wide tubes that form the Interwebs:

• When it comes to wine in Thailand: elephants good, pythons bad, two seasons every year good, rain-induced low yields bad.

Jesus• I’ve seen many an odd permutation of that whole WWJD thing, but this is a first for me: a book called “What Would Jesus Drink?”

• A bit more irreverent, but filled with more definitive truth, is this post about how to avoid wankerism by one of my favorite wine writers, Samantha Dugan. Great advice for those who go to free (or paid) tastings.

• If you’re anywhere near as tired of hearing people saying that sulfites keep them from drinking wine, here’s some great ammo.

• Finally, this woman absolutely speaks for me:

Bottle

 

7
Apr
2013
0

Wines of the Week: April 1-7

Everyday: Best I can tell, Charles Smith can do no wrong. The Washington-based vintner Vinomakes my favorite $12 domestic riesling, his syrahs are powerful and profound, and he has come up with another winner with the 2011 Charles Smith “Vino” Pinot Grigio ($14). Lovely floral and fruit aromas lead to a vast array of yummy flavors (pear, citrus, apple) and a burst of mineral-based lift on the palate. Spot-on acidity works its way into the refreshingly mouth-watering finish. Try it with sushi, buffalo chicken salad, or actually most any fish or any salad.

Occasion: Every once in a while, a wine will remind us of why the French talk so much Font-Saneabout “terroir.” The Domaine de Font-Sane “Tradition” Gigondas ($24) has the kind of savory and earthy elements that evoke the ground from which this grenache-based blend sprung. In the 2007 and 2009 renditions, classic Southern Rhone characteristics “” white pepper, dried herbs, red fruit and a bit of meatiness “” come to the fore at varying times. The finish is stout yet a bit silky. Tapenade, hearty pasta dishes and a grilled steak (perhaps laced with white pepper) are among the swell accompaniments.

31
Mar
2013
0

Wines of the Week: March 25-31

Everyday: How much do I like the 2012 Navarro Mendocino Pinot Blanc ($15)? NavarroWell, after two sips at the winery’s tasting room, I ordered a case of it, which I have done exactly zero times. Pure honeydew and bright lemon-lime flavors almost explode on the palate, but the finish is clean and lean. This is a new wine from old vines, and it continues this marvelous winery’s mastery of Alsatian grapes (Navarro’s gewürztraminer is widely renowned, and with good reason). Try it with glazed salmon, light cheeses, ham or hearty salads. Or al fresco on the patio; even though our “deck season” is short, I’m pretty sure that that case won’t last all the way through it.

Occasion: I’ve sampled quite a few New Zealand pinot noirs in recent year and never Te Kairangabeen “wowed” by one. Until last weekend, when I was honored to be a judge at the fantabulous Pigs & Pinot event. Our three-person panel deemed the 2011 Te Kairanga John Martin Reverve Martinborough Pinot Noir ($41) to be one of the two best among 62 entries. Rustic but rich, with wonderful earthiness and delicious dark red fruit, it was one of those wines you want to hold in your mouth for a while. Until you experience the glorious, near-endless finish. Roasted fowl is the perfect accompaniment, but this hearty red would play beautifully with spring lamb as well.

27
Mar
2013
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-27-13

Back from judging the latter part of Pigs & Pinot (and consuming a lot of both). The attendees were quite classy, even the lady at our dinner table whom I dubbed June Cleavage, thanks to dangling necklace baubles that screamed “don’t look at my eyes.” But not all wine-soaked events have this much couth, necessitating the first of today’s links:

• Some industry folks and I were laughing last night about local tastings where many folks Necktether a wine glass to a neck thingie and one event veteran said that at every Fort Mason event at which she has poured, at least one person has projectile-vomited in full stride. This primer on how to behave at tastings only begins to cover some of the transgressions.

• Last night we also tasted one of those “orange wines” that the somms love and that I have found to be a quite uneven lot. I wondered aloud if we would have guessed it was a red wine had we been blindfolded. We weren’t sure. That brings to mind the experiment that prompted this piece on, basically, why none of us knows what the hell we’re talking about.

• My friend Bill Hooper recently reminded me of how “f-ing hilarious!” the old BBC cooking/pairing series “Posh Nosh” was. Whether you’ve seen them or not, clips that begin here will more than tickle the ol’ funny bone.

• Far less subtle, but just as funny, this “Saturday Night Live” skit from earlier this month spoofs wine and Madison Avenue in fine fashion.

23
Mar
2013
0

Wines of the Week: March 18-24

Everyday: With some wine regions, it’s often difficult to know how much the improved Carlonetproduct is a result of advances in growing and winemaking techniques, or the fact that the “good stuff” that never had been exported is finally reaching these shores. The latter certainly applies to South Africa. One recent arrival, the 2008 Uitkyk Carlonet Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) stands up to cabs at that price from anywhere, with plump but dusty fruit, spot-on tannins and a zingy, hearty finish. Beef or lamb kabobs and roasted root veggies are among the swell possible accompaniments.

Occasion: When is a $47 Italian white a screamin’ bargain? When it tastes, and feels, like Vermentinothe Giacomelli “Boboli” Colli di Luni Liguria Vermentino. At San Francisco’s wondrous Delfina restaurant last weekend, this almost explosive white earned tablewide “wows!” from three loved ones. The focused stone fruit and citrus flavors and energy-inducing acidity and minerality provide almost a literal lift on the palate en route to an endlessly engaging finish. Creamy pastas and most any scallop preparation will rock with this white from the Italian Riviera, and it played beautifully with my pork saltimbocca as well.