18
Dec
2011
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Wines of the Week: Dec. 12-18

Everyday: As popular as they are, Italian pinot grigios can be a bit wearying on the palate, a la chardonnay. I think it’s because of the oak (in both cases). The Simply Naked Unoaked California Pinot Grigio ($7-$8), on the other hand, is crisp and vibrant the whole way through, with nice texture and clean citrus flavors. Winter weather aside, it’s especially (and doubly) suited for this time of year: as a friendly, refreshing holiday party sipper and a great gag gift that people actually can use rather than try to figure out to whom to re-gift it. The “naked,” by the way, connotes the lack of wood.

Occasion: Another great gift, at a way-other end of the price spectrum, comes from Down Under: the Kaesler “Old Bastard” Shiraz ($190). Not to be remotely confused with the bargain-based Fat Bastard line, this big ol’ red boasts explosive dark fruits but a wondrously refined edge. It’s generous and harmonious, with spice and smoke elements and beautiful tannins, and the finish very nearly lasts throughout the 12 days of Christmas. This is the perfect wine for a fancy holiday meal with standing rib roast or beef Wellington, but is seriously swell on its own near a crackling fire.

16
Dec
2011
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An unspeakable loss

Some winery visits you never forget. The anecdotes from John Shafer and Ken Wright. The between-sips chocolate and “are we in Tuscany?” feel of A. Rafanelli. Phillipe Drouhin’s hearty laugh while sipping Le Montrachet from barrel. The dozen laid-that-morning eggs as a “bonus” after buying a case at Papapietro Perry. The magical mystical vibe at Mount Eden.

None were more memorable than watching Emily Miner chasing after, and trying not to fawn too much over, her two adorable daughters at Miner Family Vineyards a few years back. The pride and joy she had in those girls as they frolicked around the beautifully appointed Miner caves was utterly contagious, an experience that Sandy and I immediately knew would stick with us forever.

That was only a few months before Emily started having back pains, finally went to see a doctor and was diagnosed with lung cancer. She had not smoked since taking a puff of an uncle’s cigar at age 6.

We lost Emily yesterday, and although I only met her twice, I’ve been profoundly sad ever since I got the word, occasionally on the surface and consistently in my gut.

When someone close to us dies, our grieving is often for ourselves, over what we will be without now and down the road. There’s nothing wrong with that − although I firmly believe that memorial services should be a celebration of the dearly departed’s life, with tears of joy outnumbering the other kind.

But today, my heart hurts, almost searingly, for Sofie and Calla, for Emily’s just-as-sweet husband Dave, and for the void in their lives now and down the road. My brain hurts over the unfairness of it all, that ineffable, unsolvable quandary that these tragedies inevitably spawn.

After her diagnosis Emily soldiered on, producing a truly inspiring video and continuing to represent the winery well. When I visited her last year, she had hardened − who the hell wouldn’t? − but spoke eloquently about her wines and soulfully about her family, often through gritted teeth; this hideous, insidious disease had relegated her to a wheelchair.

I couldn’t bring myself to write about that interview, certain that I could not accurately, much less objectively, put that experience to paper. I should have tried, but I don’t possess a fraction of Emily’s courage.

I have two sentiments that I share with those left behind when people move on, especially when they’re way too young. First and foremost: “Savor every friggin’ day.” And in some cases, I pass along a poem, hoping it provides some comfort at a time when any comfort will do.

A Hopi Prayer by Mary E. Frye
Do not stand at my grave and weep.
I am not there, I do not sleep.
I am a thousand winds that blow.
I am the diamond glints on snow.
I am the sunlight on ripened grain.
I am the gentle autumn rain.
When you awaken in the morning’s hush
I am the swift uplifting rush
Of quiet white doves in circled flight.
I am the soft stars that shine at night.
Do not stand at my grave and cry;
I am not there, I did not die.

11
Dec
2011
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Wines of the Week: Dec. 5-11

Everyday: I’m firmly on board the moscato bandwagon, whether it’s inexpensive domestic stuff (Barefoot, Robert Mondavi) or the more complex offerings from Italy such as the Seven Daughters Veneto Moscato NV ($14). There are waves of flat-out delicious fruit in this white delight, plus racy undertones that keep the lush mouthfeel from cloying up matters. A touch of effervescence to go with that sweetness make this a spot-on choice for holiday gatherings, pairing well with sweet and savory dishes. And at 7.0-percent alcohol, it’s a safe choice as long as guests don’t guzzle.

Occsasion: Last week at the fabulous Ferry Plaza wine bar in San Francisco, I got my first shot at a 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and it will be far from the last. The Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($49) is big and bold but supple and smooth, with bright and dark red fruits, spicy notes and bracing tannins that softened in the glass as we savored it. Try it with osso buco or other hearty meals that originated with a cow, or lavender-laced lamb chops off the grill. This is the perfect gift for red-wine lovers, including your own bad self.

8
Dec
2011
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Guardin’ Eden’s legacy: Jeffrey Patterson

Jeffrey Patterson has been making wine for 31 years, which given his appearance means that he started at about age 8.

But the Mount Eden Vineyards winemaker has wisdom that surpasses his actual years, and a winery with a fascinating history that goes back three-quarters of a century. And during a visit to his sublimely tasteful home surrounded by beyond-gorgeous vineyards last week, he insisted on sharing that history before getting to the wine.

“Martin Ray bought this land in 1936. He was with Paul Masson, and had married an Almaden,” Patterson said, citing two huge names in mid-20th-century wine. “Martin came up here and planted pinot and chardonnay in 1943, and so we have 60 continuous acres from that time.”

With Ray at the helm, Paul Masson produced some of America’s best, and most expensive wines. “Ray was 30 years ahead of his time,” Patterson said, “very French, expensive wine, not much of it, domain-bottled, into viticulture.

“But in the 1950s Ray sold Paul Masson to Seagram’s, which took Masson from artisinal to what it is today.”

Ray continued to make wine from this spot until the 1970s but was not a good businessman, Patterson said, and “in the 1970s investors took Ray out and renamed this Mount Eden.”

Patterson (left) came on board in 1981 as assistant winemaker, became winemaker two years later, started buying stock and four years ago became the major shareholder.

He has stuck with a lot of the methods that Ray brought to this 2,000-foot mountain. “My style, if it could be called a style, is more traditional,” Patterson said. “Acidities are above normal. It’s based less on fruit than longevity. I always try to make the Estate Chardonnay to be a 30-year wine, harvesting not when it’s over-ripe, making sure the pH is low.”

He has succeeded mightily. All of these wines are delicious but also have “cut” and focus and harmony. Mount Eden is my favorite California chardonnay, the pinot is right up there and the cab is as good as anything in the $50 range. In fact, he could probably sell it for a lot more, given the quality and the ratings (98 points in the latest Wine & Spirits for the $48 Estate and 95 points for the “Domaine Eden”).

That’s reason alone to root for Patterson: He has kept the prices of all of his wines at $55 or below. “A lot of wine pricing depends on your neighbors,” he said. “If I was in Oakville and charging $55, my neighbors would say “˜why are you doing this? You’re making us look like bozos.’ I’m here by myself.”

Gotta say, though, that I liked his partner (in business and life) Ellie’s answer even better:

“I’d rather sell out the wine and have a nice life.”

3
Dec
2011
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Turning the Japanese

There’s a lot of cool stuff on the walls at Calera’s tasting room near Mt. Harlan, especially the maps of the seriously steep area that Josh Jensen single-mindedly turned into a wine mecca. Perhaps the most compelling item is a poster-sized photograph of the Calera founder himself wearing a smile almost as tall as the two Japanese ladies pressing against either side of him.

“Josh has been a rock star in Japan since the 1990s,” said our amiable host, Minnesota native Marta Rich, the winery’s sales manager. “He goes there once a year, and people line up around the block to get his autograph. 

Now many a vintner is widely admired on these shores, but not even Robert Mondavi drew long autograph lines. At a dandy little winery on Spring Mountain, Shawn Guilliams once told me that she and her winemaking husband John “are rock stars in Omaha.  While the Guilliams wines are worth seeking out, it should be noted that they’re from there, she was speaking jocularly and, well, it’s Omaha.

But a whole nation?

Turns out it’s all about a comic book. The Japanese love their comic books, especially of the “manga” ilk, and a wine-themed one called “Sommelier” has had an enormous cult following for nigh onto two decades.

In a mid-’90s passage, two very competitive sommeliers were holding a blind tasting. One of them said confidently that the wine being poured out of a bag was Domaine Romanee-Conti, widely revered as the world’s best pinot noir. His nemesis pulled off the bag to reveal “¦ a Calera Jensen pinot noir.

Boom goes the dynamite: That’s all it took to get thousands of the comic book’s devotees to clamor for a bottle of Calera Jensen. Today, Calera is in 47 states and 22 countries, but actually ships more than a quarter of its wine to Japan, Rich said.

Of course the comic book was merely the trigger, in the way that a catchy brand name or winery label can prompt the initial purchase. After that, what’s inside the bottle has to be engaging or compelling enough to get a customer to come back for more.

And Calera certainly delivers in that way, with an outstanding viognier and several tasty pinots. As for the Jensen, to my palate it rivals Mount Eden and Rivers Marie as California’s very best pinots.

Turns out the Japanese were on to something here.

3
Dec
2011
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Randall Grahm, cider-meister?

Last weekend, I had the great good fortune of spending several hours with the inimitable Randall Grahm, a fabulous winemaker and thinker whose journey has always, by design, including new explorations. I’ll be doing the profile-y thing here soon enough, but I’m especially enamored with his latest excursion:

Cider. Made like wine. Specifically, like Champagne.

Grahm is going the full methode-y, as in methode Champenoise. Fermenting in the bottle, giving dosage, riddling the bottles, all that.

He’s confident in the practices at the winery, which include custom pressing, but has had a bit of a problem getting the orchard farmers on board with treating their fruit like viticulturists treat grapes.

“Growers think of apples and pears as commodities,” he said. So getting them to practice canopy management, much less dropping fruit, has been a challenge. (Next time you meet a farmer who is willing to destroy some of his crop a month or two before harvest, well, let’s just say that that’s why vintners often pay growers by the acre rather than the ton.)

One other not-so-small problem: About half of the 300-case lot of the 2010 Querry exploded, and the rest had to be decanted and re-bottled, Grahm said over dinner at his Cellar Door restaurant.

Misadventures aside, this is an incredibly tasty, intriguing bottle of fermented apple, pear and quince. It’s available from the winery for $16. It’s tightly wound but full-flavored, tickles the palate and throat and throws in a near-endless finish.

Grahm caught the cider bug when his French winemaking counterpart Didier Dageneau came for a visit with cider-meister Eric Bordelet, and they sampled Bordelet’s iconic Poiré Granit cider. A few years later, Querry was birthed.

Grahm, as is his wont, has a couple of other fascinating projects going, including storing some of his Cigare Volant white wine in carboys and a seed-growing program that is yielding highly individualistic vines.

But I’m seriously glad that he’s hopped on the cider house wagon, and that he’s forging a his usual compelling trail in that world.

3
Dec
2011
0

Wines of the Week: Nov. 28-Dec. 4

Everyday: For some reason, many American consumers insist that they don’t like sweet wines while glugging down residual-sugar bombs like Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay and “The Prisoner” red blend. A great cure is the Charles Smith “Kung Fu Girl” Riesling ($13), which seems friendly enough at the outset and subtly morphs into a semi-complex, layered treat. Lovely floral aromatics + beams of fruit cocktail and minerally flavors + refreshing kick at the end = a wine that would be a bargain at a much higher price. Almost certainly America’s best under-$20 riesling “” I, alas, have not tried them all “” this playfully labeled wine would be a big hit at a holiday party, and it pairs beautifully with spicy Indian, Szechuan or Thai dishes.

Occasion: At tastings of Washington wines, many vintners pour the cabernet before the merlot, which can have more structure and richness. The Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot ($40) is just such a wine, with big ol’ tannins beautifully integrated into the dark fruit. This is the perfect wine to serve to cab hounds who turn up their noses at merlot; actually, pouring it in another room and offering it to them as a cabernet is a dandy parlor trick. It’s big and bold but beautiful on the finish. There’s just enough spice in it to handle a flank steak with a Mexican or Southwestern sauce, but that pot roast or standing rib roast simply cries out for a wine such as this.

26
Nov
2011
0

Wines of the Week: Nov. 21-27

Everyday: Dow is known, with good reason, for its Ports, but the Dow Vale de Bomfim Duoro Valley is a fabulous red table wine year in and year out, and an absolute steal at $12-$14. There’s vivid red fruit with some wild-berry notes, hints of coffee in some vintages and a clean, focused mouthfeel. It’s got Old World dirt but no funk and nice complexity, plus an alcohol level that hovers around 13 percent. This is one of our absolute favorite hearty-soup wines, but also marries well with roasted meat, of both the dark and white ilk.

Occasion: This must be red-blend week, because another perennial favorite, the Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel ($50), is sounding seriously good right about now. There are (very) healthy dollops of mourvedre, syrah and grenache in there and a bit of counoise, giving this wine both brightness and heft. It’s a ripe and rustic, lush-fruit delight, reminiscent of the winery owners’ roots in the Rhône (the Perrins also run Chateau Beaucastel, thus the name of this wine). Again with the meats, braised or roasted, but meaty pizzas and eggplant-based dishes also play well with this wine.