17
Jan
2017
0

Linkin’ logs: 1-17-17

Time for drinking wine on the cheap, from everywhere (except maybe a nasty autocrat’s stash), via the World Wine Web:

• Can’t we all just get along? While California’s grape and marijuana growers remain at odds over water and workers, here comes the first Wine & Weed Symposium.

• Couple of really good lists, and not just because they include wines I’ve recommended before :o): Eric Asimov’s 20 winter reds  and Nick Passmore’s 10 best European reds under $20.

• I’m not linking to Blake Gray’s post because I’m quoted in it :o), but rather because he makes a damn good point: Korbel is making some super sparkling juice for the price.

• Yessir: VinePair, usually aiming for “edge,” endorses trying everything but the “trendy” wines in 2017.

• One of the last people in the world I’d want to drink wine with is Vladimir Putin, but taking a gander at his cellar is sorta kinda fun.

• Finally, a bit of vinous verse:

 

14
Jan
2017
0

Wines of the Week: Jan. 9-15

Everyday: Holy crap, is 2014 ever a fantabulous vintage in Oregon. Exhibit A: the 2014 Erath Oregon Pinot Noir ($19), from a justly beloved winery. Especially given its price, this pinot has surpassing elegance and beauty, not to mention deliciousness (OK, I just mentioned it). Lovely red fruit, picked at optimum ripeness, and superb structure are hallmarks of this beauty. And what a lovely, deep finish, pure and persistent. It seems that one of Oregon’s first wineries – Dick Erath made his first batch in 1965 – is still one its best. Like all good pinots, this baby calls for roasted veggies or fowl, especially a recipe from the incomparable Ina Garten’s latest book, skillet roasted lemon chicken. Add the precise beauty of Debussy’s “Clair de Lune,” and the perfect pairings are complete.

Occasion: After the holidays, many of us find ourselves a wee bit strapped for cash. Good thing there are $21 wines suitable for special occasions, like the 2012 Coppo Barbera d’Asti Camp du Rouss. Starting with a complex nose, this Piedmontese red follows up with a superbly balanced amalgam of fruit, acid and dusty tannins. It’s bright and lively at the outset, multilayered and persistent on the finish. Darker fruit and Caribbean spices dominate the flavors, which linger nigh onto forever on the finish. A great way to celebrate the winery’s 125th anniversary. Along with the rustic but refined Italian classic, Pasta Alla Gricia, and the down-home goodness of the Billy Bragg-Wilco collaborations.

14
Jan
2017
0

Judgment days, chronicled

What a week. Tasted nigh onto 500 wines, and most of them were good :o). I was judging at the San Francisco Chronicle competition, and yes it was work. (You try judging 43 domestic ports in one afternoon.) Some highlights:

• One of my panel’s weirdest categories was “de-alcoholized wines,” a first for my fellow panelists and myself. After trying and spitting the first one, a quite tasty Brut, I blurted out, “Wait a minute! We can swallow.”

• Kent Rosenblum was on hand, as always, and the Minnesota native shared some Ole & Lena jokes (too long to recount here, even if I could remember them) at a dinner. He prefaced the japes with this: “Did you know that the Swedes invented the toilet seat? But it was the Norwegians who put in the hole.”

• By the way, Kent is back consulting for the Rosenblum winery that he sold to Diageo almost a decade ago. (The wines need the help.) Also learned that Kent and his daughter Shonna, at their current winery Rock Wall, are making an “Ole & Lena” zin,

• Other stuff I gleaned: that the phrase “heart-warming” often is used as a euphemism for high alcohol; that I’m more OK with some brett than most judges; and that a good way to approach aromas in wine, from panel mate Greg Burns, is ” ‘I’m expecting this’ rather than ‘it tells me this.’ ”

• And the winners from among 6,850-plus U.S. wines were …
Sparkling: Korbel, 2013 Brut, Russian River Valley
White (tie) Hanna, 2016 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, and Castello di Amorosa, 2015 Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley
Pink: Trentadue, 2015 Rosato di Sangiovese Estate, Alexander Valley (way to go, Miro!)
Red: Tonti Family Wines, 2013 Barrel Aged Zinfandel, Russian River Valley.
Dessert/specialty: Coopers Hawk Winery & Restaurants, Icewine, Vidal Blanc, Illinois

 

8
Jan
2017
0

Linkin’ logs: 1-8-17

All the (vinous) news you need to know:

• As we all are aware, tomorrow, Jan. 9, is National Cassoulet Day. Here’s a lowdown on the French classic that includes cool history, a recipe, and of course most importantly, wine pairings.

• I’m not a bucket list kind of guy, but if I were, this photo package of cool vineyards would be part of the proceedings.

• Jamie Goode is one of the smartest (and wisest) wine people I know, as his thoughts on natural wine show.

• I have friends who are major devotees of the biodynamic calendar’s effects on the ways we perceive wine. Goode is not among them, and says he has the science to back that.

• Forgot Botox (please!): Wine grapes are a better skin treatment, it appears.

• Finally, I always follow doctor’s orders, especially when the doctor is this guy:

 

6
Jan
2017
0

Who’s your Papa? Wine wisdom from Hemingway

One can debate whether Ernest Hemingway was a great thinker, but he absolutely was a great drinker (and writer). Some of his thoughts on the topic:

“A person with increasing knowledge and sensory education may derive infinite enjoyment from wine.”

“Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things in the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection. It offers a greater range of enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.”

“In Europe then, we thought of wine as something as healthy and normal as food and also as a great giver of happiness and well-being and delight. Drinking wine was not a snobbism nor a sign of sophistication nor a cult; it was as natural as eating and to me as necessary.” – From “A Moveable Feast”

“It is a wine. A good wine, not a great one. It is red. Wet. Its power is obvious, obvious and powerful the way men are, men who hunt and get into bar fights. Real men. Except for the smell. The wine smells better than the men.” – From “The Sun Also Rises”

“This wine is too good for toast-drinking, my dear. You don’t want to mix emotions up with a wine like that. You lose the taste.” – Count Mippipopolous in “The Sun Also Rises”

“I drank a bottle of wine for company. It was Château Margaux. It was pleasant to be drinking slowly and to be tasting the wine and to be drinking alone. A bottle of wine was good company.”

“Always do sober what you said you’d do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.”

4
Jan
2017
0

Gleanings: 1-4-16

Waaaaay too much to catch up on here, but here are some semi-recent experiences that might prove edifying and/or entertaining:

*Some pals and I had a fascinating, fabulous tasting of 2014 Oregon pinots last week. What a vintage, maybe Willamette’s most promising ever based on our 4-hour lunch. Eyrie, Roco and even A to Z showed beautifully, and many others were quite worth trying and buying. And these were just the appellation wines, the basic stuff. We capped it with a Thomas Dundee Hills Pinot Noir from my cellar. This is a nigh onto perfect wine, and it’s understandable why it has developed a cult following of people who want to keep it to themselves. (Oops.). The ’14 showed incredible aromatics, with a dense but pristine nose, then incredible fruit tucked into spot-on tannins and acid. Its utter harmony make it fabulous now and indicate that it could age for decades.

• I’ve always heard great things about Darrell Conti, a Sacramento-based grocery and wine buyer. I wondered a bit when he took a hard line on alcohol levels in wine, which produced a fascinating thread featuring many vintners here. I learned more about him in this swell profile, and I love love love this quote from the man: “I always travel with the idea that we haven’t found everything in the world. We need to find more things. Interesting things.”

• One of the cool things about expanding your vocabulary is that you learn about who you are, or at least how you might be characterized. My daily-word missive recently passed along “bon viveur: A person who enjoys good food, drinks, luxuries, etc.” Guilty as charged.

• Another recent, useful, new-to-me word to cross the transom: “saporific: producing or imparting flavor or taste.”

• But wait, there’s more: “suberous: like cork in appearance and texture” … And a word I had of course heard at holiday time but never fully understood: “wassail: to drink to the health or success of; toast. 2. to revel with drinking.”

• And finally, in recent months I picked up what might be my favorite toast (or at least rival “Everything in moderation, including moderation”): “May all your joys be pure joys and all your pain be Champagne.”

More to come very soon.

 

2
Jan
2017
0

Wines of the Week: Jan. 2-8

Everyday: As with many regions and varieties, you generally get what you pair for in Chianti. That makes the 2012 Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico ($17) quite the revelation. Let’s go to the checklist: lovely aromatics (yes), rockin’ acidity (yes!), spicy, just-ripe-enough cherry flavors (hell to the yes!) and a persistent, food-friendly finish (yowsa!). The grapes for this wine were grown at nearly 2,000 feet, which helps explain the tanginess. And the vintners beautifully straddle the Old and New Worlds in style while ensuring that the result is completely Chianti-esque. Go for the usual grows-together pairing of anything with tomatoes, from salads to pizza to pasta, perhaps with Marcella Hazan’s insanely simple and delicious tomato sauce. And speaking of spicy and saucy, John Prine is spot on as a soundtrack.

Occasion: OK, the holidays are behind us. Must be time for … Champagne. One of the very best I’ve had recently — OK, ever — is the 2009 Vilmart Grand Cellier d’Or Champagne ($78). There’s crazy-good harmony in this sparkler, with super-tasty fruit, racy acidity and dry but lively texture. And oh, that finish, minutes long and ever-refreshing and refined. Damn, I almost forgot about the aromatics: fresh, bold, complex. This is a dazzler, and worth buying more than one bottle for cellaring. Like all the great Champagnes, it’s stupendously versatile at the table, from salty to savory to sweet; try it with Ina Garten’s fab strawberries with balsamic vinegar. And the incredible, indelible harmonies of Richard and Linda Thompson.

 

1
Jan
2017
0

Linkin’ logs: 1-1-17

Scroll another one, or a few. Wine on the Web:

• This piece chronicles a very 21st-century way to figure out wine-cheese pairings.

• When to comes to bubbles, it might be “the bigger the better,” according to one study.

• The formidable Karen MacNeil makes a great case for drinking bubbles every day, and explains the differences between big house, growers and co-ops.

• The estimable Elin McCoy foreshadows some vinous happenings for the new annum: wine zines, fountains and more.

• The redoubtable Alfonso Cevola looks back and forward re. Italian wine and the writing about thereof.

•  Finally, a nice rationale for drinking alone:

19
Dec
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 12-19-16

Time to be of good cheer, and to share some (mostly) cheerful tidings:

• Good news for vegans: A new device might curtail the use of animal products in the fining process.

• The morals of drinking wine, especially at lunch, are examined here.

• Stuart Piggott is not only a great wine writer; he’s a swell writer, period, as this piece on his love/hate affair with Bordeaux shows.

• Competition or a combo trip? Wine & Vines looks at whether weed and wine tourism will knock, uh, heads.

• For once, a hyperbolic-sounding InterWebs headline actually is just telling it like it is: A woman figured out how to dispense wine from her fridge.

• Finally, my friend Tom came across a post that explains the foibles of computerized translation of tasting notes: