4
Dec
2014
0

Eloquence bubbles up

Champagne moves many of us to (try to) wax eloquent, some more successfully than others:

•  “Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.”—  F. Scott Fitzgerald

Bardot• “Champagne is the one thing that gives me zest when I feel tired.” — Brigitte Bardot, six months after her 60th birthday

• “Some people wanted champagne and caviar when they should have had beer and hot dogs.” — Dwight D. Eisenhower

• “Mr. Edward Carson, QC: Do you drink Champagne yourself?
“Mr. Oscar Wilde: Yes; iced. Champagne is a favourite drink of mine— strongly against my doctor’s orders.
“Mr. Edward Carson, QC: Never mind your doctor’s orders, sir!
“Mr. Oscar Wilde: I never do.”
— Oscar Wilde (1854–1900), Exchange, 4 April 1895, during Wilde’s prosecution of the Marquess of Queensberry for criminal libel, Regina (Wilde) v. Queensberry

• “It’s a long time since I drank Champagne.” —  Anton Chekhov’s last words

4
Dec
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Nov. 24-30

Everyday: My favorite development in the wine world is the way dandy Italian whites have become more affordable. PerticaiaThe 2011 Azienda Agraria Perticaia Trebbiano Spoletino Umbria ($14) is the kind of wine that would have cost $22 a few years ago — and would have been worth it, but barely. It’s vibrant on both the nose and palate, with fresh green fruit (kiwi, Key lime) flavors and invigorating jolts of acidity and minerality, plus uncommon length. This brisk beauty will cozy right up to fruit- and seafood-laden salads or chicken quesadillas. The pure and pristine vocals of First Aid Kit provide the perfect soundtrack, starting with a stunningly beautiful cover of “America” that left Paul Simon in tears.

Occasion: Talk about over-delivering: At $30, the 2008 Finca Sandoval Manchuela Castilla la Mancha Sandovalis a frickin’ steal. This syrah is large and in charge but downright gorgeous, with chunky dark red fruit and spot-on tannins. The firm but elegant texture continues through a minute-long finish. Sausages, or paella with the same, or a slab o’ beef that has been grilled fast or braised slow are optimal pairings. This bold beauty also provides a great excuse to dust off the soundtrack to the Cuban classic “Buena Vista Social Club.”

 

 

 

2
Dec
2014
0

Linkin’ logs: 12-2-14

Scrollin’, scrollin’, scrollin’, the Interweb is swollen with good stuff. Some recent faves:

Drinkers• First, the good news: It appears that a huge percentage of heavy drinkers are not alcoholics.

• Even better news: The world’s mother grape apparently was saved from extinction. Cin cin!

• A few years back, stellar vintner Thomas Rivers Brown told me “A lot of folks in Napa should pull up their vines and plant corn” because the soil was not suited for grapes. That’s not gonna happen anytime soon, but at least some California folks realize that grapes have been overplanted.

• To live long and prosper, you might want to consider quaffing some Klingon blood wine.

• More than a few foregone conclusions are challenged in a fascinating piece at the dandy food/beverage site Zester Daily. Among the topics: Aussie wines, blending vs. single vineyards and the importance of a “house style.”

• Finally, this could be me and my way better half:

Reading Glassses

23
Nov
2014
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Wines of the Week: Nov. 17-23

Everyday: For many of us, no Thanksgiving dinner is complete without bubbles, and no, they need not be from this country on this Mionettoalleged all-American holiday (which, btw, originated with some immigrants feting the folks who already lived here). You could do a lot worse than the Mionetto Valdobbiadene Prosecco Brut ($16). There’s a boatload of lively citrus and apple aromas and flavors, laced with vibrant acidity and tons of tingles from the effervescence. And oh, what a finish. Besides most everything at the Turkey Day table, this sparkling delight goes with … most everything, from potato chips to strawberries to fried chicken. The shimmering but hard-edged songs of Aimee Mann are just the ticket.

Occasion: Le Nouveau Boujolais est arrivez! And hopefully departez. Go for the real thing rather than that banana-inflected Nouveau stuff. MorgonThe 2012 Marcel Lapierre Morgon ($30) is a lovely intro, with fabulous bright cherry flavors and uncommon depth. This herb-inflected beauty, a Kermit Lynch import, fairly rumbles across the palate and smooths out through a splendid extended finish. Here is another gem that would be a versatile player come Thursday, or with roast pork or vegetable terrines. Break out some rustic tuneage from the amazing Neil Young (opt for perhaps my favorite album of the 1970s).

22
Nov
2014
0

Linkin’ Logs: 11-22-14

New inventions and semi-old traditions are among the highlights of this week’s scroll through Weblandia:

• I’m a big fan of Mouton Rothschild’s practice of having an accomplished artist create the winery’s label each year. MoutonHere’s a gallery of the labels, going back to the beginning  in 1924.

• I had a fantastic barbera the other night that I opined would be a great Turkey Day wine. The swell site VinePair delves much more deeply with this great Thanksgiving pairing chart.

• Across the pond, where they won’t be eating oyster stuffing on Thursday, comes word that drones might be used to detect vine disease.

• Want to make your wine — any and all of your wine — taste better? Then save up for when this gadget comes out. Or not, if you’re as skeptical as I am. (Would love to test it, though).

• Now THIS is an invention I can get behind, the wine purse:

Wine Purse

20
Nov
2014
0

Writerly wine quotes

It’s always heartening to learn how much people of yore enjoyed wine, and to see that expressed by their respective era’s best writers. To wit:

• “A person with increasing knowledge and sensory education may derive infinite enjoyment from wine.” — Ernest Hemingway

Tennyson• “Woman is the lesser man, and all thy passions, match’d with mine, are as moonlight unto sunlight, and as water unto wine.” — Alfred, Lord Tennyson (left)

• “Where once my wit, perchance, hath shone, in aid of  others let me shine; and when, alas, my brain has gone, what better substitute than wine?”  — Lord Byron

• “I drank at every vine, the last was like the first. I came upon no wine so wonderful as thirst.” — Edna St. Vincent Millay

• “Pour out the wine without restraint or stay, Pour not by cups, but by the bellyfull, Pour out to all that will.” — Edmund Spenser

17
Nov
2014
0

Wines of the Week: Nov. 10-16

Everyday: Who says you can’t find really good Vouvray for under $20? Not me, at least after savoring the super-tasty J. Moreau
2012 J. Moreau & Fils Vouvray ($16). With touches of sweetness and saltiness augmenting the fresh green-fruit core (kiwi, Key lime), this is one refreshing but ample white. The mouthfeel is luxuriant, the finish bold and lengthy. Forget the Red Bull and use this as an energy boost on a chilly day. Pair it with fish tacos, fried chicken or any kind of ham dish. Plop on the tight, taut and oh-so-soulful music of Sharon Jones & the Dap Kings and let it roll.

Occasion: Want to spring something special on your Thanksgiving guests? You could do no better than the gorgeous 2012 Pio Cesare “Fides” Barbera d’Alba ($40). Pio CesareSplendiferous bright red fruit almost assaults the nose and palate before some sturdy tannins and refreshing acidity show their stuff, producing layers of flavor and texture. If someone complains that it doesn’t fit the all-American theme of the day, remind him/her that we are named after Italian explorer Amerigo Vespucci. Pair it with any roast fowl or bed. And just for good measure, put on some music by Dean Martin, née Dino Paul Crocetti.

14
Nov
2014
0

Magical, mystical wine places, Part IV

The great contributions keep pouring in from my query for a place or experience that not only was special but relly brought home what a site, or wine itself, is all about. Here are Parks I, II and III.

James Hirdler, Restaurant Alma wine buyer, Minneapolis
“Among many ‘wow’ moments visiting vineyards, the one that sticks out most for me was my first anti-‘wow’ moment.  It was my first visit to California wine country.

“I grew up reading all the periodicals, looking at pictures of wine events, Bordeaux auctions, big-city restaurant sommeliers and thought, ‘there really is Bubblesanother side to my grandfather’s Christmas sparkling wine, and I want to find about it.’

“After years in the restaurant industry getting to taste wine and learning from one of the best, my mentor Jim Reininger, who owned three of the restaurants I have worked at, I flew into San Francisco and met up with a friend who was familiar with the wine-tourist highway. We bought a map and got into party mode.

“The first red flag was that the road trip to Napa and Sonoma was going to start at 7 a.m.  The tasting rooms were only open during the day. What? Vineyards aren’t open all time?

“After the half-hour or so drive, I then realized that there wouldn’t be a lot of actual drinking involved up here, driving being one of the only things wine does not pair with. That’s fine, let’s do this. The scenery is intoxicating enough.

“My goal for the day was to visit Martinelli Vineyard.  These were the first wines I fell in love with.  Big, jammy pinot noirs, spicy zinfandels, buttery chardonnays and that gorgeous apricot-y sauvignon blanc. I want to party with these guys!  Although my palate has changed, these are still very good wines (jam, spice and butter being their terroir in my opinion).

“The first few vineyards along the way were a sign of things to come. Turnbull: Lovely place.  Empty. Besides the person pouring tastes, everyone was working in the field. It’s a farm. Flora Springs: Lovely. Less empty but still a farm. Schug: Same. Farm. Everybody was working — and working hard.  The wines were great, the people friendly and the views fantastic, but barrrel samples were as close to a party as this was getting.

“And I loved it.

Martinelli“Wine wasn’t blue-blood at all. It was everything I was really interested in — farming, geology, geography, meteorology, science, etc. I was hooked. More than that, I felt invited into this delicious and accessible industry that day. I grew up in a family of farmers.

“We made it to Martinelli, another half hour north of the town of Sonoma, and there it was:  Glorious.  A farm.  And this was not the Martinelli sparkling cider my grandfather gave me at Christmas as a child, telling me it was Champagne.”

Casey Garvey, Terzo Vino Bar, Minneapolis

“I’ve played bag toss at Menage-a-Trois. I’ve eaten the pre-made cold cuts and the fruit salad that permeate a visit to Mario Andretti’s winery. Although I haven’t been in the wine game for very long, I’ve been on the tours and seen the sights that most Americans have come to imagine when they picture where their wine comes from.

“But, fortunately, there can be so much more to it. There was a time a couple years back that changed this vision for me, which has been crucial in understanding where most of my wine comes from and why it can be an experience beyond a chapter in a book and a buzz.

“Navigating up the gravel that is Lewis Rogers Lane toward Ayres Winery, I expected to arrive at a paved slab of parking lot, next to the other cars and Ayrestour buses (I don’t despise tourism despite my tone here). I was wrong. There was no parking lot; there was no grand log cabin, no fake rustic paraphernalia; there were no buses or pictures being taken.

“What I discovered was simply a modest house with a modest plot of vines. What I discovered was the winemaker himself, pouring his different, unique crus of pinot noir and telling stories, sharing insight and camaraderie. I discovered a multi-generational family living together under one roof, working toward and preserving a passion. I found an honesty and a sense of place.

“On the way out, with a bit of that aforementioned buzz, I noticed the family’s mutt running around in the rare Willamette sun with a bounce of unadulterated happiness. I thought about how places like this could help someone find that feeling — a well-made wine by a well-intentioned cast can assist in that search. This was for me, to an extent, a lesson in terroir. A lesson that can’t be found in a book.”

12
Nov
2014
0

Pinot envy

Ah, pinot noir, that cruel seductress. Small wonder it has prompted so many words of wistfulness and wisdom:

Voltaire• “I serve your Beaune to my friends, but your Volnay I keep for myself.”  — Voltaire (left)

•  “Pinot noir is the ultimate wine to have at the table. It’s a white wine masquerading as red…[while] chardonnay is a red masquerading as a white.” — Kevin Zraly, wine educator

•  “Pinot is very fragile; it needs space on the dinner table; mix it with other wines and they will knock it to pieces.  The Burgundians even taste chardonnay after pinot so as not to overwhelm it.” — Peter Finlayson, Hamilton Russell Vineyards

• “Pinot noir is like opera: when it is great, it is pure seduction, hedonistic, but like opera, unless it is very good, it is difficult to enjoy.  You have to understand it to truly appreciate it.” — Finlayson

• “To treat a poor wretch with a bottle of Burgundy, and fill his snuffbox, is like giving a pair of laced ruffles to a man that has never a shirt on his back. — Thomas Brown, “Laconics” (1701)