29
Jul
2012
0

Wines of the Week: July 23-29

Everyday: A decade ago, crisp summer refreshers were a limited lot, but no more. Among the most delightful of recent arrivals are picpoul de pinets, grown very close to the Mediterranean Sea in the Coteaux du Languedoc region. Clean and refreshing, the Gaujal de Saint Bon Picpoul de Pinet ($12, often less) has that “limon” thing going on all the way through a long, lively finish. Most of the picpouls come from large co-ops, but this wine is made by a mother-daughter team, Simone and Virginie Gaujal. It’s the rare wine that plays well with fresh tomatoes, sings with most any seafood and vies with salads to see which has the most crispness.

Occasion: Joel Peterson built a formidable reputation over the decades at Ravenswood, and his son might prove to be an even better vintner. Morgan Twain Peterson’s Lacuna California Proprietary Red ($28) is a rich, gorgeously textured and flat-out delicious blend of syrah and petite sirah. There’s great harmony in the fruit, mineral/acid and tannins, with black fruit and white pepper occasionally coming to the fore. Many of the wines I recommend here are samples, but I bought this wine and then ordered more after tasting it. The Lacuna’s savory and herb-tinged elements make this a swell food wine for such a big boy. Besides sundry slabs of meat, I can personally recommend herb-roasted chicken and sweet potatoes as an apt pairing.

28
Jul
2012
0

Lured to Walla Walla, and no wonder

Katherine Derby Raymond grew up in the Twin Cities and had firm roots here: Her grandfather, Dean Derby, played for the first Minnesota Vikings team. But the day after graduating from Bethel, she bolted ““ and headed “home” in the process.

Raymond had spent every summer growing up at her grandparents’ spread in Walla Walla, Wash., land that her family had been farming since the 1860s. It was primarily a wheat farm ““ still is, actually ““ but in 1993, the Derbys started planting grapes.

“My uncle said, “˜What else is going to keep us going?’ “ Raymond said. They’re up to 110 acres now (with 900 still planted to wheat), and Raymond serves as an ambassador for the rich, rustic wines of Spring Valley Vineyards.

On the labels of those wines are seriously cool portraits of her maternal ancestors, Nina Lee, Uriah, Frederick and Katherine Corkrum.

“They kept the land in the family,” said Raymond, who named her son Uriah, “so the labels are a tribute to them.  The continuity doesn’t end with the family tree. “The vineyard team has been the same since 1993,” Raymond said.

Winemaker Serge Laville, who accompanied Raymond to the Twin Cities recently, is a relative newbie. A native of the Cotes du Rhone region, he was a professional photographer and hooked up with fellow photo buff Devin Corkrum Derby, who invited him to the winery.

Laville had learned a good bit about winemaking from consultant Marie Laure Sylvestre, and he fell in love not only with Spring Valley’s wines but a local woman, Madeleine Call. He married her and came to work for Derby, Katherine’s father, as assistant winemaker. Derby died in 2004, and Laville became head winemaker the next year.

He enjoys making syrah, which he learned about from his grandfather, but is especially fond of cabernet franc. “We’re trying to make the [Katherine] Cabernet Franc age-able for 10 years,” Laville said. “With our new equipment, especially the new de-stemmer, we can make softer wines. Compared to Bordeaux it’s a more approachable wine.

“We take our time de-stemming. Everything I do in my life, I take my time. 

And it shows in the wines.

Tasting notes
• Spring Valley Derby Cabernet Sauvignon: very soft, subtle, dark red fruit, medium length.
*Spring Valley Frederick (55 percent cab sauv, 31 merlot, 7 cab franc, 5 petit verdot, 2 malbec: big, firm tannins, cassis, endless.
• Spring Valley Katherine Cabernet Franc: layered and lush, dusty and minty, great food wine.
• Spring Valley Mule Skinner Merlot: dark berries, longish, firm fruit and tannins, silky, elegant finish.
• Spring Valley Nina Lee Syrah 09: purple (in flavor and color), herby, fun and full-flavored.
• Spring Valley Uriah (54 percent merlot, 35 cab franc, 7 petit verdot, 4 malbec): juicy, herby, plummy, great mouthfeel.

25
Jul
2012
0

Parental (mis)guidance

So my dad died last week, and it got me to thinking about how he and my late mom might have helped me on my path to wine.

They were both heavy drinkers. Legal drugs (alcohol, cigarettes and a raft of prescriptions) ruined my mother’s health and absolutely shortened her life (she died at age 66). And while Dad made it to 84, his doctor said the dementia that eventually killed him was fueled or hastened by his alcohol consumption.

So I almost certainly was destined to, as my daughter-in-law deftly frames it, “like the drink.” But I did not remotely want to go down the boozy road my parents were traveling (vodka for her, Scotch for him), although I do rather enjoy the occasional glass of sour mash. So in that sense, they steered me toward wine.

My dad traveled to Germany on business in the early ’60s and fell in love with a beer called Löwenbräu. He would give me an occasional sip at age 8 or 10 when we were watching a ballgame with the inimitable Dizzy Dean and Pee Wee Reese at the mike. In the process I picked up, at least subconsciously, one of my core beliefs: that there’s nothing wrong with sporadically giving a small amount of beer or wine to kids. I was never destined to be puritanical, to be sure.

During Dad’s European travels, or maybe on business trips domestically, he developed a fondness for the red wines of Burgundy. In the last few decades, he has ribbed me mercilessly for the way my fellow miscreant teenagers and I raided his “cellar” and quaffed his Gevrey-Chambertin. I have no recollection of this but have no basis to deny it (although it’s a bummer to not be able to recall any “ah, so this is wine” moments). So maybe I have Dad to thank for being an ardent Burg hound.

I certainly owe him for helping me learn how to shop for red Burgs. Or more precisely, how not to. Even though Dad’s Burgundy collecting ended decades ago, I decided during the ’90s and early ’00s that in the interest of irony/makeup/whatever, I would include in his Christmas gifts a red Burg, preferably a Gevrey-Chambertin.

Bad idea, at least the way I went about it, which was to go grab one off the shelves at Haskell’s. Nary a one had any character, which figures because I knew nothing about Burg shopping, and even for those who do, it was justly renowned as a crapshoot in that era. So I took two courses of action:

• I started studying Burgundy, mostly via acquaintances, and figured out that the vintner’s name in the teeny-tiny print on the bottom of the label was way more important than the large-lettered appellation.

• I kept on buying high-end wine for Dad for Xmas, but switched to Old Bastard. As his dementia started kicking in, I had to remind him that it was the real deal, not an everyday wine and certainly not a joke wine.

But most of all, I have Dad to thanks for my hedonism, my lust for life. He spent the first 20 years of his adulthood piling up accomplishments, then decided that it was more important to enjoy life than to spend it doing what others expect of you. My way better half and others have called him Hemingway-esque, as much for his gusto and buoyant personality as the big-game hunting. I’m not about to argue that notion.

And I couldn’t possibly thank him enough for setting that Bacchanalian example.

22
Jul
2012
0

The roots of “If … then …”

Amidst all the hubbub about Mitt Romney’s tenure at Bain Capital, my friend Tom unearthed the origin of the “if … then …” stance. Wine is mentioned but also could be substituted for “whiskey” throughout:

The label if-by-whiskey refers to a 1952 speech by Noah S. “Soggy” Sweat, Jr., a young lawmaker from the state of Mississippi, on the subject of whether Mississippi should continue to prohibit (which it did until 1966) or finally legalize alcoholic beverages:

“My friends, I had not intended to discuss this controversial subject at this particular time. However, I want you to know that I do not shun controversy. On the contrary, I will take a stand on any issue at any time, regardless of how fraught with controversy it might be. You have asked me how I feel about whiskey. All right, here is how I feel about whiskey:

“If when you say whiskey you mean the devil’s brew, the poison scourge, the bloody monster, that defiles innocence, dethrones reason, destroys the home, creates misery and poverty, yea, literally takes the bread from the mouths of little children; if you mean the evil drink that topples the Christian man and woman from the pinnacle of righteous, gracious living into the bottomless pit of degradation, and despair, and shame and helplessness, and hopelessness, then certainly I am against it.

But, if when you say whiskey you mean the oil of conversation, the philosophic wine, the ale that is consumed when good fellows get together, that puts a song in their hearts and laughter on their lips, and the warm glow of contentment in their eyes; if you mean Christmas cheer; if you mean the stimulating drink that puts the spring in the old gentleman’s step on a frosty, crispy morning; if you mean the drink which enables a man to magnify his joy, and his happiness, and to forget, if only for a little while, life’s great tragedies, and heartaches, and sorrows; if you mean that drink, the sale of which pours into our treasuries untold millions of dollars, which are used to provide tender care for our little crippled children, our blind, our deaf, our dumb, our pitiful aged and infirm; to build highways and hospitals and schools, then certainly I am for it.

This is my stand. I will not retreat from it. I will not compromise.”

22
Jul
2012
0

Wines of the Week: July 16-22

Everyday: It’s pronounced vee-own-YAY, and its foremost expression comes out of the Rhone, particularly in hard-to-find Condrieus. But the McManis California Viognier ($11) is not only a dandy, worthy summer sipper but perhaps the most readily available viognier around (along with Cline). With the varietal’s characteristic lovely aromatics showing more fruit than flower, it delivers ripe, clean peach and tropical-fruit flavors and a bit more acidity than most California whites. One of the best soup wines around, this tasty white also plays well with curries and sushi.

Occasion: One of my favorite wine geeks, a man who usually favors tannic European reds, shows his other side with this week’s annual zinfandel gathering. Bad timing, because I find myself without a longtime favorite, the Carol Shelton “Karma” Russian River Valley Old Vines Zinfandel ($33). Guess I’ll have to settle for a Turley or a Carlisle to go with those lip-smacking ribs :o). This is a lusty, rich rendition, with dark fruits and tropical spices, plus more than a hint of chocolate. Try it with lamb, as my way better half and I did the first time we sampled it, on a gorgeous May night dining almost alone on the Dry Creek Kitchen’s patio.

14
Jul
2012
0

Wines of the Week: July 9-15

Everyday: Midsummer is indubitably vinho verde time. These ridiculously refreshing Portuguese whites (often green, as the name connotes) are just plain fun and low enough in alcohol for quaffing. The perennially delicious Broadbent Vinho Verde ($10.50, often less) clocks in at 9 percent alcohol and 100 percent vibrancy. A blend of typically obscure (to us) loureiro, trajadura and arinto, its crisp green-apple flavors and refreshing acidity make it the ideal picnic wine, but this bright white also loves most any kind of seafood and another seasonal favorite, pesto. Or just a patio and a chair.

Occasion: We’re also smack dab in the middle of barbecue time, and among the best accompaniments for a slab o’ ribs slathered with sauce is a peppery Aussie shiraz. The Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” Shiraz ($29) actually has some grilled-meat flavors, along with blue and black fruits (plum sauce welcome). This is not a wimpy wine, but it’s not the kind of over-the-top jam-a-rama wine that gave Australia a bad name. It’s supple but intense (cellaring for winter is not a bad idea, either) and seriously hearty with a touch of elegance. The array of spices at the end make it suited for any type of charred meat, or as an after-dessert treat as darkness falls and the cooler temps kick in.

 

12
Jul
2012
0

What to do with plonk?

What started as a post for this site evolved into today’s Liquid Assets column, and it contained a rarity: calling out brands that in general are not worth recommending.

That’s an ongoing quandary for a wine critic, or at least for me. I have always been able to rationalize only writing about wine I like in the paper due to space limitations. At the same time, it would seem to be a huge service to consumers to cite wines that are poorly made.

On the Internet, of course, the not-enough-space argument is a steaming pile of ca-ca, and that has prompted my pals Jason and Mike and me to ponder a website that would “out” the bad stuff. We would call it something like plonk.com, SuckyWines.com or drinkthat-notthis.com. We couldn’t hide behind aliases, not even an Alan Smithee-like moniker, at least if we wanted to have any credibility.

That might yet happen, although it’s not without issues. We would have to be sure to only nail wines that are poorly made, not wines made in a style we don’t like. As a reviewer, at least in the newspaper, I have to be willing and able to tout a well-crafted version of a super-oaky/buttery chardonnay or an overly grassy/grapefruit-y New Zealand sauvignon blanc, even if I would never buy such a wine, simply because a lot of consumers like those styles.

Also, the Internet is forever, but sometimes wineries evolve and improve, as new grape sources or vintners come on board. So a brand slam might become out of date, i.e. wrong. And there goes the whole credibility thing.

Until I can find the time and fix the issues (ideas welcome), I will be doing exactly what the folks who send me samples want me to do: praising (in print or cyberspace) the ones I like and not writing about the crummy ones. Sigh.

12
Jul
2012
0

A Krug kind of morning

No, I’m not drinking bubbles from perhaps Champagne’s foremost producer (consarnit!). But within a half-hour just now, two Krug-related items crossed my transom.

First came an email from a Star Tribune reader regarding my Liquid Assets column that addressed, among other things, the matter of high-end wineries such as Silver Oak striving to reduce, if not eliminate, vintage variation. The reader wrote:

“My wife and I recently returned from Reims and had the good fortune to have a personal tour of Krug. During the tour, we learned that Krug’s driving passion has always been that its Grande Cuvee Champagne ‘always have exactly the same taste.’ The idea is that people who love it should be able to expect exactly the same taste every time they buy it.

“As you can imagine, given the variation in grapes from year to year, this means they do not follow a strict formula as to what percentage of grapes from various year and vineyards go into that year’s Grande Cuvee. Rather, there is extensive tasting that goes on to find that year’s mix of grapes that will yield the famed ‘Grande Cuvee taste.’ We learned that, for years, the two Krug brothers pretty much themselves were in charge of such tastings. Now, it’s a team of ‘taster experts’ who must come to agreement.

“We were really impressed by this commitment and it is nice to be able to get the special taste one desires””especially if one is spending a fortune to get something like Krug.”

Fascinating stuff, and not at all surprising.

Shortly thereafter, via a Tweet from the indefatigable blogger Alder Yarrow with a link to a Wine Searcher list of the world’s most expensive wines. I was much less surprised that three Krug bottlings made the list than by the price of the spendiest bottle: $14,395 for Henry Jayer Richebourg Grand Cru.

I would be seriously daunted by sampling that wine. Not that I wouldn’t.

What I actually would not do is handle the bottle while it had even a drop left in it.

11
Jul
2012
0

Linkin’ logs 7-11-12

Wheelin’ around those tubes that some call the Internet:

• One of the wine world’s oldest saws is that red wine and beef go together well. Turns out some farmers in Languedoc are taking that about as literally as you can, feeding excess juice to their livestock. Some cuts from this cattle reportedly will cost 100 euros (!). Wine pairing extra, of course.

• Elsewhere in France, some merchants are eschewing California wines because of that state’s foie gras ban, which took effect July 1. It’s much ado about very little, since not much Cali juice was sold in that area and not much paté from the region went to the West Coast anyway. Seems like we here in Minnesota, home to one of only three U.S. foie gras purveyors (the redoubtable Au Bon Canard), could boycott both California and French wines. If we weren’t too smart for such shenanigans.

• Elsewhere in Protest Land, some monastic folks in Sonoma are suing to stop Artesa from clearing some forest land and planting vineyards. Not sure whom to root for on that one, being a fan of forests, wine and Artesa. And not wanting to anger the forces behind monasticism.

• And now for some good news: The Chinese are starting to embrace white wine. About 85 percent of sales to date have been red, but as the folks there learn more about wine, and about enjoying it with food, they’re realizing whites should have a place at their tables. They’re even checking out some German riesling. And they can be forgiven for part of the motivation: less chance of counterfeit wines than with the Bordeaux reds they had so fiercely glommed onto.

• Finally, for those who think they really, really, REALLY want to become a sommelier and get that MW (for Master of Wine) appended to their name, here’s a sample exam.