29
Sep
2016
1

From balls to barrels: Wine-writer transformations

Writing about why so many accomplished wine writers were once sportswriters was a fabulous experience. The thoroughly enjoyable and edifying interviews produced waaaaaaay more content than I could fit into the story. Some choice leftovers:

goldfarb• Alan Goldfarb knew more about dating than about wine back in the day: “[In the 1970s] I always took dates to dinner and impressed them because I could pronounce Chateauneuf-du-Pape. I had no idea what it was or why I could pronounce it.”

 

schoenfeld• Bruce Schoenfeld made an interesting distinction between the sources in the two realms: “Wine people are selling something. The people who are selling something in sports are not people you want to talk to. Even the grumpy wine guys realize that you’re serving a purpose for them. In sports the process is a little more taxing, a little more oblique.”

steiman• Harvey Steiman on how he started down the vinous road: “I really discovered wine when my wife and I were on our honeymoon in Europe. We were introduced to wine as part of culture, the general benefits all the way around as part of your meal. We looked at each other and said, ‘this is pretty good; we should look into this.’ ”

murphy• Linda Murphy worked mostly in public relations at wineries between her sports- and wine-writing careers, with one exception: “I worked one vintage in the cellar with Merry Edwards, at Laurier, which is now Hartford Court. She was a taskmaster, a perfectionist. At the end of that harvest she offered me a full-time job, and I turned her down because I had decided I wanted to write about wine. And she said ‘I don’t offer that to anyone, you know.’ I ran into her recently and reminded her of that, and she said ‘I don’t remember that, but it sounds like something I would say.’ ”

whitley• Robert Whitley expanded on his philosophy of asking less-than-brilliant questions when reporting:  “When I was trying to learn about Italian wines, I traveled to Italy, and I guarantee you I asked a million dumb questions. It’s the same technique as if you were covering sports or City Hall: Ask the question that gets the response that helps me explain to readers what they are talking about. After all, if you visit five different wineries in Tuscany the same day, you get five different philosophies of making wine.”

perdue•Lewis Perdue shared a story from when he was faculty advisor to the UCLA newspaper, and how  he dealt with a headline involving Oregon State (nickname: Beavers). “The sports editor came to me with this: ‘Beavers muff chance to snatch Pac-10 lead.’ I said ‘you will have hell to pay.’ He said ‘What would you do?,” and I said I would run it. The next day we had demonstrations, all kinds of controversy, and I don’t think [the editor] has ever stopped laughing about it.”

• Perdue also explained why he stopped writing about wine: “I started to realize I had a bad connection between my palate and my vocabulary. I realized that if I sat down with 12 cabernets, I was somehow determined to make them all seem unique. But once you have cabernet character, you get a lot of similarities. Is it a blackberry or currant? Could I tell the difference between black cherry and regular cherry? Probably not. I realized I was writing for the sake of writing. And I started looking at other wine writers and how on one wine they would write 100 words or more. I thought, ‘how deep into your imagination do you have to reach to describe a wine that much?’ So much of it, just like sportswriting, is bullshit.”

berger• Dan Berger delineated the difference between numbers on the two beats: “Telling who won is like putting a score on a wine. How and why the wine is what it is, that’s what people were interested in. Once a wine gets 97 points, you know it’s good. The question is how it got that good. So a good wine writer needs to know a lot about winemaking. … When a shortstop boots a grounder, you don’t ask why; it just happened. When a wine is not good, you need to ask why, but you need to be very subtle. The why part is absolutely crucial; who, what and where are essential, but they don’t tell the whole story.”

laube• James Laube said he was proud to be part of an evolution in wine writing: “When I started, there weren’t wine writers; there were wine columnists. At the Wine Spectator I believe we’ve created modern wine journalism, turning consumer stories and bringing this to life, call-to-action journalism. The style of wine writing that’s been adopted by everybody, we were able to craft that. We understood how to get a story into play. The Wine Advocate, that’s not journalism; that’s a guy spray-painting words onto a page.”

gray• W. Blake Gray had a different take on the magazine: “[Years ago] I was intimidated about writing about wine. I would read Wine Spectator and think, ‘wow, these people are so knowledgeable about so many things and so confident. How could I, an ordinary person, tell a 92-point wine from a 90-point wine?’ One day I started analyzing the magazine from a writing perspective. Sure, their tasters sounded authoritative, but their feature stories were boring. I realized I couldn’t get through an entire Wine Spectator feature without my eyes straying from the page. And the Spectator wasn’t alone: Most wine stories were simply dull. Many wine stories are people stories, and they weren’t well told. I was worried about my lack of training in wine, but I realized that I could tell a story in a way that not enough people were doing.”

• Gray also had few regrets about leaving the sports world behind: “And did I mention the lifestyle? I miss going to ballgames and having prime seats (again, the NBA: right there in the front row!) and asking players how it felt to catch that last-second pass. I do. But I fly around the world going to beautiful regions, eating in great restaurants and drinking great wine with interesting people. That’s a pretty good trade.”

17
Sep
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 9-17-16

Oh this and that:

salt• I love bubbles and am a salt aficionado, so I might have to try this.

• But now this — the ultimate spoofulated wine — I am not so sure of.

• And this is pretty funny: “The Best Wines to Pair with a Shitty Attitude.” Basically, think pink to avoid seeing red.

• Also quite droll is this video about how stalwart wines play dumb.

• Finally, as a words guy and amateur punster, I certainly appreciate this:

wine-meme

 

 

13
Sep
2016
0

Worldly wine words from writers

It has become more difficult to find vinous quotes that I have yet to share here, but I finally have enough for a post, from writers and an artist:

thucydides• “The people of the Mediterranean began to emerge from barbarism when they learnt to cultivate the olive and the vine.” — Thucydides (left)

• “The wine was Summer, caught and stoppered.” — Ray Bradbury

• “Aspects of Bordeaux appeal to the aesthete, as Burgundy appeals to the sensualist.” — Hugh Johnson

toulouse• “I will drink milk when cows eat grapes.” — Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (left)

• “There are no standards of taste in wine, cigars, poetry, prose, etc. Each man’s own taste is standard, and a majority vote cannot decide for him or in any slightest degree affect the supremacy of his own standard.” — Mark Twain

 

 

1
Sep
2016
1

Linkin’ logs: 9-1-16

Cool stuff from the Wineterweb:

• No place has the breadth and depth of wines to match Italy. Wine Folly provides its typically looky approach to this.

Petrus• Decanter’s Andrew Jefford looks at the quandary that so many of us have been facing — whether to get out of the high-end-buying world — and has a fascinating point about truly interesting vs. expensive bottles.

• My friend Jason has written a swell piece prompted by an encounter with what I like to call “liquivores.” He makes some insightful points about styles and trends.

• Wit and wisdom, h/t to my friend Mike: Hedges winery has compiled a fabulous list of “rules for attending a wine festival.” My favorite: “Over-buff late thirties guy: Don’t try to impress your date by contradicting me.  You’re going to fail. Yeah, try me.”

• Finally, I need one of these:

Sign

18
Aug
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 8-18-16

I am vowing never to get so far behind in writing posts, especially sharing the wonders of the World Wine Web. The latest:

• I’ve always been a sucker for frozen drinks (and have to watch my intake of Brandy Alexanders during our interminable winters), and I loves me some rosé. So a slushy pink cocktail is right in my wheelhouse.

A label for Big Tree Brand California wines

A label for Big Tree Brand California wines

• NPR delved into the vinous library at Cal-Davis and unearthed cool old labels and a lot more.

• Not sure how much it contributes it my own fabulous marriage, but researchers say that drinking wine could be the secret to happy unions — if both parties imbibe.

• This is pretty geeky, but those who are interested in how northern grapes are hybridized — by using genetic testing of native grapes — will get a lot out of it.

• This piece is long and also a bit cork-dorky, but it’s a fabulous take on one of the world’s coolest vineyards (Stagecoach) and two of my very favorite wine people (Gabrielle Shafer and Jan Krupp).

• Will the next generation be as pandered to as egregiously as we Boomers have been? A Coravin for Millennials indicates that the answer is hell-to-the-yes.

• Finally, a toast to whoever came up with this inspired (and inspirational) bit:

Wine Sign

14
Aug
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 8-14

Everyday: Greece is at or near the top of my list of destinations to (re)visit (it’s been nigh onto four decades). When that Skourashappens, it will be interesting to see if wines such as the 2012 Domaine Skouras Moscofilero ($14) taste even fresher than they do here. Hard to imagine, because this gorgeous white, while rich and ripe, has such great purity and life. The sweet and tart sides, the juicy stone-fruit flavors and spot-on acidity, perform a lovely pas de deux on the palate. That’s my kind of mouthfeel, with a fab finish to follow. Whole fish, broiled or grilled, would be the perfect accompaniment, but most any fruit of the sea will do. The harmonic nature of this wine is justly reflected in the music of the fantastic new trio Case/Lang/Viers.

Occasion: It has been almost a year since I journeyed to the Douro Valley in Portugal, and the taste of the incredible Characterjuice at Wine & Soul lingers indelibly (thanks, Ryan Opaz!). The 2012 Wine & Soul Pintas “Character” is one of the best $40 wines I’ve sampled in recent years, robust but smooth with a markedly refined finish. This is one of those “terroir” wines, which for me means that it “tastes like the ground that it came from,” at least figuratively. Pintas is the original vineyard of the winery, which now has several choice plots nearby, and many of the vines are 80 years old. This truly rocked with a chorizo-like sausage during my visit, and would play well with most any sausage. Or steak. Or chop. The rustic, riveting work of Hubert Sumlin is just as swell a pairing.

 

2
Aug
2016
0

Burghounds: Wise words on sublime wines

Ah, Burgundy. It’s a region that invokes a mystical look in many of us. And always has:

Dinesen 3• “There are many ways to the recognition of truth, and Burgundy is one of them.”  – Isak Dinesen (left)

• “Nothing makes the future look so rosy as to contemplate it through a glass of Chambertin.” – Napoleon Bonaparte

• ”Burgundy makes you think of silly things, Bordeaux makes you talk of them, and Champagne makes you do them.  –Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Pitte• “Bordeaux makes you piss. Burgundy makes you fuck” – Jean-Robert Pitte (left)

• “Burgundy is not the designation of a wine produced and standardized in immense quantities. It is the general description of a great number of closely related wines, having kindred excellence conforming broadly to one type, but varying infinitely by fine shades, which is the pleasure of connoisseurs to distinguish.”  – Stephen Gwynn

Liebling• “Burgundy is a lovely thing when you can get somebody to buy it for you.” – A.J. Liebling (left)

• “She gets to keep the chalet and the Rolls, I want the Montrachet.”  – anonymous, Forbes Magazine

• “Pinot is very fragile; it needs space on the dinner table; mix it with other wines and they will knock it to pieces.  The Burgundians even taste chardonnay after pinot so as not to overwhelm it.”  – Peter Finlayson

Moliere• “If claret is the king of natural wines, Burgundy is the queen.”  – Moliere (left)

• “To treat a poor wretch with a bottle of Burgundy, and fill his snuffbox, is like giving a pair of laced ruffles to a man that has never had a shirt on his back.” – Thomas Brown

“Aspects of Bordeaux appeal to the aesthete, as Burgundy appeals to the sensualist.” — Hugh Johnson

• “Burgundy for kings, champagne for duchesses, claret for gentlemen.” – French proverb

 

1
Aug
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 1-7

Everyday: Nothing has been more heartening to this Tundraland denizen than the steady parade of swell new offerings Portadafrom Portugal to reach Flyover Land. The 2014 Portada Winemaker Selection Lisboa ($10-ish) starts off light and lively, with nice oomph on the midpalate and finish. A blend of antão vaz, roupeiro and Perrum (yeah, I’ve never heard of ’em, either), this brisk white is the essence of freshness, with citrus and green-apple flavors and just enough minerally goodness. Bring me some fish tacos or ceviche, or most anything with grilled or roasted corn in it. For the perfect soundtrack, check out the refreshing, vibrant but mellow tune-age of Bibo & Cigala.

Occasion: Most every Chianti I’ve sampled from the Rufina subregion (not to be Selvapianaconfused with the Ruffino brand) has been very good to outstanding. The 2010 Selvapiana Bucerchiale Chianti Rufina Riserva ($29) is especially exemplary, with the trademark combo of ripeness and acidity dancing deftly from start to finish. This is one harmonious wine, with ample fruit and a brisk but sturdy mouthfeel and finish. It’s somehow both dusty and muscular, like other wines grown in this higher-altitude subregion. If there’s a better red for pizza, I’d love to hear about it, but this beauty also will cozy right up to pasta with creamy or tomato sauces, roasted or grilled fowl and caprese. And good God, y’all, would some vintage James Brown also pair splendidly with this.

 

31
Jul
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 7-31-16

All the news that’s fit to drink in:

Wine Cat• I’m sure my late, great cat Roscoe would have lapped up wine made for felines.

• Learned a couple of things from this brief piece on cooling wines quickly: that it’s best to wrap the bottle in a wet cloth before placing it in the freezer (for 10 minutes), and that “lots of salt” should be put into a mix of crushed ice and cold water to do the job (in 15 minutes).

• Here’s an interesting way to construct a wine cellar.

Bledsoe• Former NFL QBs Drew Bledsoe (left) and Rick Mirer have delved deeply into our world with their own wineries.

• I enjoy the Delectable and Vivino apps but don’t use them as much as I should. Now comes a similar app, Wine Ring, which purportedly can tell if you’ll like an unfamiliar wine (based on ratings you’ve given other fermented grape juice).

• Finally, this future imbiber speaks for me:

Wine Sign