12
Jul
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 7-12-16

Food for thought from the InterTubes:

Rose-gummy-bears.1jpg-630x417• I loves me some gummy bears, and I loves me some Whispering Angel rosé, so this product is made for me.

• It was hard to nail a theme for my take on the current state of Twin Cities wine bars: basically better than ever but still semi-inadequate.

• One milliliter per hour isn’t much, but something that continuously makes wine is still pretty cool.

WineTruck• I’m trying to figure out the “jingle” that this truck should play: Maybe this or this.

• Among the many highlights in this swell interview of my friend Ron is this spot-on assessment: “the simple truths about wine—its history, its resonance with the human spirit, its simple joys, not the least of which is altering our state of consciousness.”

• Finally, every wine lover’s home should have one of these:

Moet Water Cooler

 

30
Jun
2016
0

Bard-acious musings on fermented grape juice

Apparently Bill Shakespeare liked his fermented grape juice. He certainly paid tribute to it semi-regularly in his works:

Shakespeare“I drink to the general joy of the whole table” — “Macbeth”

“I am falser than vows made in wine.” — “As You Like It”

“Give me a bowl of wine. I have not that alacrity of spirit nor cheer of mind that I was wont to have.” — “Richard III”

“Give me a bowl of wine, In this I bury all unkindness.” — “Julius Caesar”

Falstaff“If I had a thousand sons, the first humane principle I would teach them should be, to forswear thin potations and to addict themselves to [wine].” — Falstaff (left) in “Henry IV”

“O nectar, a poetry profound,
a liquid fair and hedonistic,
a drink meant truly not for mortals
but the gods of misty yore.
Burdened not by filtering or fining
or such slings and arrows beset by fools.
Get thee to a bottle.”
— This actually was written by the Wine Spectator’s Tom Fish, channeling Shakespeare

Wine cup

27
Jun
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 6-27-16

Spanning the Web to bring you the constant variety of wine:

DRC• For those even remotely interested in the pricing of fine wines, this article from the redoubtable FiveThirtyEight website is packed with cool info and stats.

• Which cities in the world consume the most wine? Interesting rankings for overall and per-capita consumption, including a German locale I’ve never heard of and the fact that three Italian cities have the exact same per-capita rate.

• So many pairing articles are done for the sake of novelty (“What to drink with S’mores!”), but this one is really cool. I’m having some falafel and albariño stat.

• Is Burg-ophile a word? If so, I am one. So is Jon Bonné, who articulates why Burgundy is and will remain where it’s at in the wine world.

• We had an amazing wine lunch the other day (5-plus hours), and I was feeling a bit peaked the next day. The proper diagnosis:

Wine sign

 

 

23
Jun
2016
0

Quite the character: Russell Bevan outtakes

So I did this profile of Russell Bevan for Artful Living magazine (PDF here: Bevan Artful Living), but since we spent a couple of hours together and the article needed to be shortish, a lot of cool stuff didn’t make it. Such as:

La Follette• Bevan was largely self-taught, but he did have mentors and role models. “Greg La Follette [left] helped me with my first vintage; he and I had been friends for a long time. He’s a mad scientist, a genius. … If my life depended on one person making a perfect wine, it would be Helen Turley or Greg La Follette. They are the two wine gods. And Phillip Togni. His wines are never perfect, but they’re perfect for where they came from and what his intent is. Phillip and Greg were easily my two biggest influences.”

• On the Twin Cities, where he lived for the better part of the 1990s: “I love the city. What people don’t understand is that Guthriethe large gay community there makes that city. Because if you had this large population of Northern Europeans without the flamboyant soul to the city, you’d be in trouble. The restaurants, theater, the arts, all those things are empowered by this fabulous gay community. It is one of the great cities.”

• He had a most unusual encounter with a guest at Chateau Boswell. “I was telling these people from Texas that the cave was 150,000 years old, and the guy looked at me and said ‘you know that’s a lie. The Lord only created the world 6,200 years ago.’ I asked him about dinosaurs, and he said Dinosaur‘The Lord provided carcasses of dinosaurs to Noah, and that’s what the animals on the ark ate and they threw away the bones and that’s where the fossils come from.

“He said ‘I’m a Jeffersonian’ and I asked him what that meant. ‘Well, [Thomas] Jefferson warned that someday you’re going to have to defend yourself from the federal government.’ I said ‘dude, you can buy all the rounds you want. They have drones, missiles. You and all your employees can be shooting at those missiles all you want.’ I don’t understand these people.”

Russell• He’s a neat freak. “I was born in Ukiah, California, which implies a certain level of white trash. My parents sent me to a military prep school for a year. I still set my clothes out every night. I have to be very intoxicated not to set my clothes out every night. … Our winery smells like a production facility. It’s scrubbed every week. Look at how clean that drain is. I don’t allow people to come and spit in my drains.”

Sorting• He has a knack for dealing with unusual vintages, such as cooler 2011 and hot-hot-hot 2013. “In ’11 we did better than everybody because I read a report based on a lunar pattern and an eclipse pattern saying we were gonna have a really early, wet year. So at every vineyard, I took half the vineyard and opened up the canopy for both the morning and afternoon side, so I got tons of pre-veraison UV sun exposure. We lost several grapes on the afternoon side to sunburn, but we had 20 people at the sorting table pulling the raisins, and everything that was left had an amazing purity to it.

Doc WeatherAs for 2013: “There’s this guy called Doc Weather [left], and he’s got a website, and people pay $2,500 a year for his service. And so he talked about how every major three- or four-year drought always followed the same eclipse pattern we were about to go through. So we totally protected the afternoon side and opened up the morning side completely, and that’s really paid off for us in the purity of fruit. This is a ’13, and that was a blistering year. This doesn’t taste like cooked fruit; it’s got fresh red and blue fruit. We were able to keep our flavors fresh, not baked.

“I think you need to buy into math and Mother Nature.”

• Some of his winemaking practices: “I pay an extra $700 a ton to have people pull out raisins, and we also have an optical Barrelsorter. … Everything is fermented in small batches. We’re 100-percent French oak. … We don’t rack our wines, so the wines get a little reductive because I don’t want to lose the verve. … I focus on textural balance, because I know that aromatically and flavor-wise, special sites are going to speak. … None of these wines are tannic. We’re not chewing on the back of our mouths right now. … I blend at night, and no one else is here. I like it when it’s me and my barrels.”

22
Jun
2016
0

Notes, quotes and anecdotes

For some reason, I’ve stumbled into some memorable quotes of the vinous ilk lately. Among them:

• Wise words from Mark Twain: “There are no standards of taste in wine, cigars, poetry, prose, etc. Each man’s own taste Twainis standard, and a majority vote cannot decide for him or in any slightest degree affect the supremacy of his own standard.”

• My neighbor and friend Tony is a great guy and quite the straight arrow; loved it when he used to put on the Boy Scout uniform with his sons. He doesn’t drink wine, but his better half Julie does, so I occasionally pass along duplicate freebies or wines that I sampled and thought she’d enjoy. I recently asked Tony if I was correct in assuming that she liked fruity wines. “The sweeter and wetter, the better,” he blurted out. I paused, then guffawed, and he followed suit, a bit red-faced, once he realized how that actually could be construed. “OK, you can put that on your blog,” he said, still smiling. Done.

Krug• We were dining and quaffing one recent night, and enjoying some older wines that my friends Larry and Molly had brought over. While lamenting that we don’t have enough older wines in our cellars, Larry offered up a sagacious thought:  “Just think of all the great wines we didn’t get to drink because we drank them.”

 

21
Jun
2016
0

Wines of the Week: June 20-26

Everyday: We’re smack-dab in the heart of rosé season (which in the Ward abode lasts for 366 days this year), and one Perrin 2of the best bargains I’ve tasted is the 2015 Famille Perrin Cotes du Rhône Reserve Rosé ($11). The family behind Château de Beaucastel and La Vieille Ferme shows again that it can do no wrong, fashioning a super-yummy mouthful of cherry/berry flavor with spot-on texture (doing that smooth but crisp dance) and a surpassing finish. This would be a value at twice the price. Like the best pink stuff, it can pair with almost anything, especially grilled veggies, shrimp and fowl, most appetizers and cold summer soups. Plop on the smooth vocals and crisp songwriting of Mr. Lyle Lovett for a perfect afternoon.

Occasion: It’s obvious that the 2015 Merisi Los Carneros Pinot Gris ($24) is going to be a stone-cold delight from the Merisi 2first sniff, never mind sip. The nose is expressive, fresh and focused, a portent for the purity, harmony and utter deliciousness to come. This is a fruit cocktail of a wine, with a fun and fulfilling interplay of citrus, tropical and melon notes. The finish is surprisingly dry and persistent. This is the kind of wine that shows how well pinot gris and salmon can play together, and most any preparation of freshwater fish or fruits of the sea should prove swell. The pure, pristine vocals of Austin thrush Kelly Willis provide the ideal soundtrack.

 

18
Jun
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 6-18-16

Been across the pond for a few weeks, so there’s a lot to catch up on, starting with:

Blue• Am I blue? Are you too? We might be after consuming some azure-hued wine.

• My word-a-day feed just introduced me to a vinous term, botryoidal: having the form of a cluster of grapes. Not sure what else it applies to (maybe my liver?), so its usage might be limited.

• I never thought I’d be gracing the pages of a mom’s blog, but I had a lot of fun researching tasty under-$12 wines, many of which have graced these pages as well.

• Is glyphosate in wine a problem? Moms Across America looked into it, and TV reported on it.

• Are you ready for some red-wine milkshakes? Not sure I am, although I do often make a raspberry-zinfandel sorbet; here’s the recipe.

Finally, the answer to an age-old question:

Size Sign

 

20
May
2016
2

A great life, and opportunities, lost

We lost dear Kristin Tillotson last week, and her ashes are being interred this weekend. The sadness falls, as always, on those KT 2of us left behind.

I’ve never read about the sundry stages of grief, believing that this is a highly personal ordeal and should not be categorized. But I know for sure, especially in this endlessly cruel year — “Fuck you, 2016,” the headline read on Deadspin the day Prince passed away — that regret is a humongo part of it for me.

That hit home when an even younger friend, the amazing force of nature Jim Ridley, slipped the surly Ridleybonds of Earth a month or so ago. I was told by a friend that Jim “idolized” me (it should have been the other way around), and it about killed me that I had not nurtured our friendship more fully.

The same goes for Kristin, including the force-of-nature thing, articulated much better than I can here and here. She always struck me as a smarter, less sullen Uma Thurman, and blessedly she wringed the absolute most out of her way-too-few years.

A friend and I were commiserating last week, and I mentioned having seen Kristin a month ago and agreeing that we were waaaaaay overdue for lunch. My friend said Kristin had invited her out to celebrate KT’s birthday, and she had declined. Our regret was palpable at each end of the phone line.

The point is, we really really REALLY need to not put ourselves in these situations. We need to avail ourselves of opportunities to spend time with those we love and/or admire, and not fall back on the excuse/rationale of being too busy or too tired or too whatever.

I’ve long had a tenet along the lines of “we’re going to have regrets about things we did, so try to avoid having regrets about things we DIDN’T do.” I have done a shitty job of living up to that.

GenevieveI so SO wish I could have met Kristin for lunch, brunch or dinner at St. Genevieve. It’s completely her kind of place: very French, fabulous Champagne list and the embodiment of one of her very favorite phrases: mise en scène. Like the restaurant’s favored tipple, Kristin was lively, acerbic/acidic (but not too) and, yes, effervescent.

A perfect pairing of person and place.

Sigh.

18
May
2016
0

Great experiences, great people, great wine

I had a wonderful time catching up with some of my favorite wine folks last week at the Dan Berger International competition. Among the highlights:

La Follette• The inimitable Greg La Follette caught me up on his latest project. While still making the fabulous La Follette pinots, Greg has launched Alquimista Cellars, he’s making a blend of, wait for it, pinot and zinfandel. Can’t wait to taste it, especially given how pumped Greg is about it. FYI, this is the guy who launched Flowers, then and now one of California’s great wineries.

• My buddy Ron Washam, a k a the ever-witty Hosemaster of Wine, is married to a 45-year-old woman, a good bit younger than he. His rationale: “I told her I wasn’t robbing the cradle, that she was robbing the grave.”

• Earlier in the day, Ron had uncorked another masterpiece on a certain orange-hued celebrity. And he was interviewed at a cool new (to me) British site called Vinolent. I love the writer’s characterization in the intro of most wine writing being “either self-important tosh or vapid clickbait drivel.”

Eberles 2• All in the family, or not: Gary Eberle’s wife, Marcy (with Gary at left), told me she recently came up with what has proved a seriously successful idea: selling parts of their barrels, and burnished vines, at the Eberle tasting room. They’re selling like hot cakes, Marcy said, especially the old pulled-up vines that, when power-washed, “get this great mahogany color to them.” Gary also was talking about his winemaker, Chris Eberle. When I asked, “Your son?” he said, “No relation. We just found each other.”

• My friend Tom Bohr was magnanimous enough to share with us a 1966 Charles Krug Cabernet Sauvignon. KrugWhat a wine, maybe the best old California cab I’ve ever had the great good fortune to try. It was seamless, the picture of harmony. And it was 12-percent alcohol. 12. Maybe that had something to do with why it has aged so well over 50 years, ya think?

• On the last morning my computer was hacked, and tons of people got spam email from me. When I told Dan Berger about it, he quipped, “I saw that, but I knew it wasn’t you because it had the word ‘kindly’ in there.”

I’ll be back with more on the actually judging ASAP.