1
Apr
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 4-1-16

At More Science High (look it up), we provide some cool fodder from the World Wine Web:

Print• Climate-change deniers can kiss my patootie, but I never quite expected this: Warming climes might be making for better wine.

• Watching your poundage? Decanter weighs in with some good info (and a formula) on counting calories in wine.

• The Hosemaster has some competition: A certain “Dr. Harry Oldman” channels a certain presidential candidate in discussing wine, art and much more.

• I loves me some aligoté, and the redoubtable Jon Bonné provides an in-depth look at this under-appreciated Burgundian grape.

• Finally my friend James passed along the year’s best political sign:

Hirdler sign

30
Mar
2016
0

Outtakes on how we taste wine (or don’t)

Some stories are especially fun to research and write. Like this one, about the sensory aspects of wine, how being in planes or a loud restaurant, or listening to music, might affect our perceptions of what we’re drinking.

As often happens, especially with a cool topic, I ended up with waaaaaay more material than I could use. Ergo, here are some outtake highlights:

Andrea1• Andrea Robinson, Delta’s consulting master sommelier, was delighted to learn that, despite the often-adverse effects of tannins and acid on airplanes, she still could recommend wines that weren’t fruit bombs. “There certainly is allure with [jammy domestic wines],” she said. “Even though fruitier wines show well, there are others that do, too, wines that will have achieved roundness and are harmonious. I have luckily had several opportunities to bring in other wines with confidence that they show well.”

• Robinson also discussed the differences between what is served in first class and the cramped confines of what my way better half called “steerage.” It’s about quantity of passengers more than quality of wine. “The volumes that those cabins burn through by virtue of sheer size, we have to be very nimble. Andrea2We tend to go with regions that have a lot of quantity, like southern France, Chile, California. For economy we’re able to offer 187s (small bottles with just over 6 ounces) from the Wente family. We might be the only carrier offering estate-bottled wine in economy.”

• She’s even more delighted that she’s been able to give some passengers a preview of their destination. “The menu that we just launched includes dedicated South American wine selections on Latin American flights.”

• Sensory scientist Steven Orfield decried wine critics “biased by their own knowledge. They believe they know a lot about the Steven2subject and don’t think other factors can affect the tasting experience.” Instead, he noted, we might encounter “masking because of brightness or noise. Every sense can mask another sense. For example, during a nice hot shower, you pinch yourself and you won’t feel as much pain.”

• That’s why being in an environment with a lot of distractions, Orfield added, ” is sort of what children have with an iPad or iPhone: constant interruptions, no adaptation time, and so they never get any zen experiences.” His preference is to “go into a quiet, spiritual restaurant and sit down and have a focus on the meal and the wine. I can often taste more clearly at home, in a quiet place where I can focus on what I’m drinking.”

Steven3• Age matters, Orfield (shown in the world’s quietest room at his Minneapolis lab) said. “As you get older, your senses become less sensitive. Your ability to discriminate is less, your adaptation time gets longer, and the power of interruptions get stronger.”

• So might the type of noise in the setting. “Some studies show that the louder a restaurant is, the more you’ll tend to taste wines that are sweeter, and the more you encounter low-frequency noise, the more you’ll get a bitter taste. With a higher frequency, the wine tastes sweeter.”

26
Mar
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-26-16

We’re headed to the Way Back Machine for some history and religion-ish material at Linkin’ Memorial High:

• Here’s one take on what Jesus and his friends (and foe) might have quaffed at the Last Supper.

Bunnies• Meanwhile, this might help you decide what to sip with that chocolate bunny. Or with more savory Easter fare.

• Bad news for ginormous breweries, good news for wine: Millennial tastes are morphing.

• Pardon the shameless cross-promotion, but I am particularly pleased with my Star Tribune column on sensory aspects of wine.

• When I met Warren Winiarski a few years back, he put a peacock feather in my short pocket and said “This is what my wines do: spread like a peacock on the palate.” A great interview with the great man.

• Finally, this doesn’t happen nearly often enough:

Wine sign

 

 

 

 

22
Mar
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-22-16

Some real news and some unreal humor highlight the week in the Wine Webosphere:

Fast food• Wine pairing tips for sweet junk food are a seriously iffy proposition. Matchups for fast food might actually have more practical application.

• It’s always fun to see new euphemisms. Instead of saying “Besotted old coots moronically mow down vineyard,” Decanter offers up “Lost pensioners mistakenly destroy vines.”  How very British.

• The always-fascinating Wine Market Council report is out. My favorite nugget: Among high-end wine consumers, 54 percent say they’re drinking more wine in the past year. My explanation: They’re largely boomers with cellars who fear their palates are fading with age.

• My buddy the Hosemaster gets off some wicked-funny quips in parroting what a certain presidential candidate would say about reviewing wine.

• Finally, another sign that speaks to me:

Wine Sign

21
Mar
2016
0

Time exceedingly well spent ‘in Burgundy’

Ah, spring. A time of reverie and wanderlust. And while these brain games ideally transpire in a sunshiny, flowery meadow, they can unfold just as blissfully indoors, perched on a couch in front of a biggish screen.

Burg2Watching “A Year in Burgundy.”

Surpassingly beautiful scenery enhanced by seriously pretty music: Ahhh. But it’s the utterly fascinating people, the region’s compelling history and of course the unsurpassed wines that provide the most satisfaction.

The documentary completely captures the “balance of nature, the terroir and human artistry” that makes this slice of central France so magical for us cork dorks (and for anyone else who visits, btw). Bonus: The geekiest of us can revel in a fabulous explication of how wine can display “very precise minerality.”

MonkAnd history buffs will have a blast. Turns out that the ancient Romans marveled at the “vines of unparalleled quality” they found here. And that most of these vines disappeared with the onset of the Goths, and that the “fledgling wine industry might have died for good were it not for Christianity,” as dozens of Medieval cellars were built by Cistercian monks

The cinematography — whether in almost lurid aerial shots of vineyards, closeups of grapes/wine/soil or probes into the faces of vintners and the plates at a Sunday afternoon feast — is striking but not overly showy. The narration by U.S. importer Martine Saunier is deft and insightful.

BurgundyRather than overly dwelling on the magic and mystery of the region, the film delves into the travails of a single vintage (2011; early heat, then lots of hail and rain) and the differing practices of the vignerons.  The magisterial Lalou Bize-Leroy rails against others’ pruning practices and purrs, “Vines are not well understood. You have to put yourself in their place.” One of her peers claims that ”Progress is pushing us all to make the same kind of wine.”

Throughout, this is the rare documentary that feels real, with no sweet-talking or artifice. Its affection for its subject is contagious, and well worth spending a few hours with on a spring afternoon — or at any time of year.

18
Mar
2016
0

The Gospel truth: Great vinous quotes from the Bible

Some call it the Good Book, and the Bible certainly contains some good thoughts on fermented grape juice:

Luke• “No man also having drunk old wine straightway desireth new: for he saith, The old is better.” — Luke 5:39

• “Wine, which cheereth God and man.” — Judges 9:13

• “Wine was created from the beginning to make men joyful, and not to make men drunk. Wine drunk with moderation is the joy of soul and the heart.” — Ecclesiastes 31:35-36

• “Forsake not an old friend; for the new is not comparable to him: a new friend is as new wine; when it is old, thou shalt drink it with pleasure” — Ecclesiastes 9:10

• “Give strong drink unto him that is ready to perish, and wine unto those that be of heavy hearts. Let him drink, and forget his poverty, and remember his misery no more.”
 Proverbs, 31: 6-7 

•  “Who hath woe? who hath sorrow? who hath contentions? who hath babbling? who hath wounds without cause? who hath Adderredness of eyes?  They that tarry long at the wine.  At the last it biteth like a serpent, and stingeth like an adder.
“Thine eyes shall behold strange women, and thine heart shall utter perverse things.  Yea, thou shalt be as he that lieth down in the midst of the sea, or as he that lieth upon the top of a mast.  They have stricken me, shalt thou say, and I was not sick; they have beaten me, and I felt it not: when shall I awake?
“I will seek it yet again.” —  Proverbs 23:29-35

• “Go, eat your food with gladness, and drink your wine with a joyful heart, for it is now that God favours what you do.” — Ecclesiastes 9:7

• “A feast is made for laughter, and wine maketh merry.” — Ecclesiastes 10:19

 

14
Mar
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-14-16

Wine and money, history and unexpected places:

Shelburne• Yes, California, there is good wine made to your east. A swell Bloomberg News piece looks at several wineries across the land, including personal favorite Shelburne in Vermont, that are crushing it on more ways than one.

• Wine goes back many millennia, but there wasn’t much written about individual varietals until fairly recently. Except for riesling, mentioned in a recently uncovered missive from 1435.

• How much do you spend on wine every year? Well, the plaintiff in a nasty divorce case is asking for $15,200 a year for wine. That’s either a buttload of semi-spendy stuff or maybe a case of first growths.

• If you can guess what is the second-most-expensive varietal in the U.S. and name the hottest expensive category, well then you don’t need to look at this interesting take on our spending and consumption.

• Finally, there’s more than a little truth in this take on my vocation:

Wine Writers

 

 

 

11
Mar
2016
0

Wines of the Week: March 7-13

Everyday: I loves me some assyrtiko, the piercing but seriously tasty grape that is a hallmark of the magical Greek Assyrtikoisle of Santorini. Although it’s a blend, the 2014 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko-Athiri ($19) is a stone-cold delight. The nose is lemony and a bit briny (evoking the surrounding Aegean Sea) and offers up bracing citrus bursts of flavor, the racy acidity providing refreshing, mouth-watering pleasure on the midpalate. The finish is clean and nigh onto endless. Yum. Most any fruit of the sea, but especially fried calamari and grilled octopus, provide splendid pairing, as do spritely spring salads. Plop on the crystalline and soulful vocals of Edith Piaf, and enter Bliss City.

Occasion: I relished writing about Rioja in my biweekly Star Tribune guise, and one of my very favorites is the 2010 LANLAN “Culmen” Reserva Rioja. It’s proof positive that a $54 wine can be a bargain, and ample evidence that all the buzz about the 2010 Riojas is well-founded. Despite its youth, this is a delicious, full-favored, ready-to-drink red, but it has the grip and stuffing to ensure age-worthiness. It’s got that ineffable red-fruit/dust combo that can only come from this region (OK, maybe from Bordeaux, too). Grilled sausages infused with Mediterranean/Moroccan spices would be one of those rare perfect matches, and a Porterhouse steak or lamb chop would not blow. The late, truly great guitar master Michael Bloomfield is another swell companion.

8
Mar
2016
0

Ode on Grecian words

The ancient Greeks were wise on so many fronts, none of them mores than wine. To wit:

Alcaeus• “Bronze is the mirror of the form; wine, of the heart.” — Aeschylus

• “Plant no tree sooner than the vine.” — Alcaeus (left)

• “In Vino Veritas” [“In wine is truth”] — Alcaeus

• “Bring water, bring wine, boy! Bring flowering garlands to me! Yes, bring them, so that I may try a bout with love.” — Anacreon

• “Quickly! Bring me a flagon of wine so I might wet my brain and say something clever!” — Aristophanes

• “Wine seems to have the power of attracting friendship; warming and fusing hearts together.” — Athenaeus

Euripedes• “Where there is no wine, there is no love.” — Euripides (left)

• “It is better to hide ignorance, but it is hard to do this when we relax over wine.” — Heraclitus

• “Wine is an appropriate article for mankind, both for the healthy body and for the ailing man.” — Hippocrates

• “The wine urges me on, the bewitching wine, which sets even a wise man to singing and laughing gently and rouses him up to dance and brings forth words which were better unspoken.”  — Homer

Homer• “Whenever a man is tired, wine is a great restorer of strength.” — Homer (left)

• “Wine can of their wits the wise beguile, make the sage frolic, and the serious smile.” — Homer

• “Drink to me with your eyes alone. … And if you will, take the cup to your lips and fill it with kisses, and give it so to me.” — Philostratus

• “When a man drinks wine at dinner, he begins to be better pleased with himself.” — Plato

• “Boys should abstain from all use of wine until after their eighteenth year, for it is wrong to add fire to fire.” — Plato

• “Nothing more excellent or valuable than the juice of the grapes was ever granted by the Gods to man. — Plato (left)

• “Wine fills the heart with courage” — Plato

• “The peoples of the Mediterranean began to emerge from barbarism when they learnt to cultivate the olive and the vine.” — Thucydides

• “So far as drinking is concerned, you have my hearty approval; for wine does of a truth moisten the soul and lull our griefs to sleep … [and with small cups] we shall … be brought by its gentle persuasion to a more sportive mood.” — Xenophon, quoting Socrates