21
Apr
2015
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Wines of the Week: Feb. 16-22

(Editor’s note: Somehow this never got posted even though the author was certain he hit “publish.” What a schlemiel.)

Weeknight: At the “real CIA,” which is what the Culinary Institute of America calls itself since it’s older than the spy house, the Pacific Rimwine classes include students taking a big whiff of lychee in a glass and intoning “lychee, lychee, lychee” before sipping a gewürztraminer. That way, they latch onto the association, hopefully in perpetuity. There’s a lot of lychee (and maybe some kiwi) in the delightful 2013 Pacific Rim Yakima Valley Gewürztraminer ($12), a lush but sharp-edged Washington white with spot-on balance and surpassing length. Almost any Thai, Vietnamese or Indian dish should work with this floral beauty. Which calls for the worldly — and otherworldly — warbling of Lisa Gerrard (those who don’t know her name will recognize the voice from countless movie soundtracks).

Occasion: I’m rather tired of the contretemps over pinot noir and its various iterations. While I don’t want to MacPhailwonder if there’s syrah in the bottle, bright, ripe expressions can be worthy, too, not to mention provide consumers with an array of style choices. The 2012 MacPhail Wightman House Pinot Noir ($55) has a massive nose, a bit of smoke and chocolate on the palate and a voluptuous texture, but it’s pinot noir through and through. Black cherry, forest floor and a rustic but silky finish make it so. Roasted or smoked fowl are perfect companions to this Anderson Valley gem, as are root veggies and mushroom-laden dishes. The exuberant, racy-for-their-time tunes of Louis Jordan enhance the occasion mightily.

 

21
Apr
2015
0

Gleanings: 4-21-15

Years ago, I determined that experiences were a better gift for loved ones than material goods. I’ve also tried to live that way, treating life as an endless series of gifts in the form of great experiences. Luckily, I’ve had a swell set of friends and our lifelong pal fermented grape juice to make them count. Some recent happenstances:

• It was Boys Syrah Night last night, and another stellar time was had by all. Not as raucous as usual, and that’s not a bad thing. These kinds of nights always seem to provide revelations and reminders. Last night provided more of the latter, starting Fox Creek 2with a reminder of how good Australian shiraz can be, courtesy of Brian’s 1999 Fox Creek Reserve. Tar-laden and loaded with mineral content, this rich beauty was nothing like the often bombastic Parker favorites. A stone-cold delight.

Also enjoyed offerings from Cayuse, Denner, Carlisle, Donelan Family and its predecessor Pax. Another jolt of remembrance: Isole & Olena’s wonderful bottling, which also had been a highlight of the very first Boys Syrah Night several years ago. Yes, Italian syrah can be fabulous.

We had a winemaker guest, local native Shane Finley, and his 2011 Shane “Unknown” showed really well.

VernayBut my wine of the night was a St. Joseph, the 2011 Terres d’Encre from Domaine Georges Vernay. My Delectable tasting note: “Great purity and flavor and texture and backbone and …”; yes, its wonders were nigh onto endless.

• While we’re talking syrah, here are some cool and surprising factoids about the grape sent out recently by a local wholesaler:  One of syrah’s parent grapes, dureza, is a sibling of the Piedmont variety teroldego, the first evidence of a genetic link between grapes that crosses the Alps. … Syrah’s other Mauiparent, mondeuse blanche, is genetically linked to pinot noir … Syrah is being grown in Hawaii, at a vineyard on Maui called Tedeschi (left).

• I was sampling Italian reds the other night and had an odd take on two nice Banfi wines: The 2012 Chianti Classico was ripe, almost syrupy and made in a very New World style; the 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva was juicy with lovely, firm acidity, made in a distinctly Old World style. Maybe it was the vintages. Or maybe Banfi is trying to have something for everyone.

• It’s been gratifying and fun to see the estimable Hosemaster of Wine write more often about wine tastings, especially since he leavens the posts with his usual biting wit. But he also imparts wisdom, as in the linked post when discussing the 2012 Tablas Creek “Esprit de Tables”:

Drinkers“It’s just a pleasure to drink. That’s one of the things about great wines. Your first impression of them is simple and intense pleasure. Analysis flies out your ears, your mind goes blank, while all of your pleasure measures go off the charts. Great wines have a sensuality that cannot be faked, like the best lovers, the ones you think about even years later and want to be with again. You don’t care how they do it, you just want it done to you again.

“I think that it’s the great wines, and I try not to use the word “great” very often when it comes to wine, that are the wines that make a mockery of the worthless and stupid 100 Point Scale. … When it comes to the great wines, the Rayasnumbers are transparently stupid. It seems incredibly idiotic to me to lump all of the great wines in the world into 99 or 98, and assume that has meaning. It’s insulting to the individuality and greatness of the wines. Rayas equals Chave Hermitage equals Grange equals Petrus equals Romanée-Conti? That’s like saying Einstein equals Van Gogh equals Twain equals Beethoven equals Astaire. Genius and greatness defy categorization, and that should be respected.”

 

20
Apr
2015
0

Who’s afraid of Virginia Woolf’s advice? Not me!

My friend Denny passed along this entry from Virginia Woolf’s diary, written 100 years ago. He thought it might be good advice for bloggers, and I totally agree. I’m gonna try to do what she says more often:

Virginia Woolf

“What sort of diary should I like mine to be? Something loose-knit and yet not slovenly, so elastic that it will embrace anything, solemn, slight or beautiful, that comes into my mind. I should like it to resemble some deep old desk or capacious hold-all, in which one flings a mass of odds and ends without looking them through. I should like to come back, after a year or two, and find that the collection had sorted itself and refined itself and coalesced, as such deposits so mysteriously do, into a mould, transparent enough to reflect the light of our life, and yet steady, tranquil compounds with the aloofness of a work of art. The main requisite, I think, on reading my old volumes, is not to play the part of a censor, but to write as the mood comes or of anything whatever; since I was curious to find how I went for things put in haphazard, and found the significance to lie where I never saw it at the time.”

19
Apr
2015
0

Wines of the Week: April 13-19

Everyday: California red blends tend to fall in the jammy, crowd-pleasing category, lacking the substance and stuffing of similar Whiplashwines from France and Portugal. But the 2012 Jamieson Ranch (Reata) Whiplash “Redemption” ($15) is dusty and brooding, with plenty of rich, just-ripe fruit and persistent grip. Nice finish, too. Maybe it’s the barbera (here mixed with zin and syrah) that makes it lean a titch toward the Old World. And what makes this wine a super match for all manner of sausages and smoked meats and veggies. For this unexpectedly successful blend, plop on some stirring work by an oddly matched jazz “supergroup,” Weather Report.

Occasion: Purity is invariably a swell attribute for a wine, and the 2012 DonnaFugata “Ben Rye” Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye($56/375 ml.) has it in spades. This Siciilian dessert wine culled from the zibbibo (moscato d’Alessandria) grape is an extraordinary expression of apricots, as if the world’s best renditions of that stone fruit were cooked down to their very essence. There are touches of honey and fig in there, but the apricot dominates this delicious, surprisingly long wine. Serve it with any fruit dessert, bleu cheese or just as its own after-dinner marvel. And for musical purity, it’s hard the beat the Benedictines of Mary‘s heavenly vocals.

 

17
Apr
2015
0

Thank ye

It’s a good time to be me. I’ve had some truly wonderful, seriously memorable wine experiences lately, all of which make me so grateful for everything I have to be thankful for. A few of those, with more to come:

Page• I’m thankful to Page Knudsen Cowles (left) for sharing her family’s debut wines from the Willamette Valley vineyards that for years has supplied Argyle with stellar grapes for its sparking wines. The 2012 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir was one of the most beautiful and ethereal domestic pinots to navigate through my stupendously lucky palate in recent years. It’s got that combination of intensity, grace and mystery that makes us pinot lovers swoon. Unfortunately, the wine has sold out, but the 2013 Knudsen Dundee Hills Chardonnay, a clean and focused offering with balance and purity, is available at the winery’s website. This is a winery to follow, folks.

• I’m thankful that Rivers-Marie had a wee bit of 2013 Silver Eagle Pinot Noir left last week when I realized I had not ordered nearly enough last month. I scarfed up two more bottles, then celebrated by taking a bottle of the 2010 Silver Eagle to dinner. Our two Europhile friends Jim and Ann loved it as much as we did. Almost simple at the outset, it soon piled on layers of fabulous flavors and textures. I’m not saying River-Marie is the country’s best pinot producer, but it’s my favorite for sure.

• I’m thankful that my friend Morgan came to town earlier this week and took me to dinner at Spoon & Stable on his company’s dime. He loves wine as much as I do, and he ordered two sublime wines: a 2005 David Duband Clos Sorbe 1er Cru Morey-St. Denis, sublimely Burgundian in its precision, concentration and complexity, Pepeand a 2001 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (link is to the 2003), a revelation that starts hearty and almost chunky but then becomes the height of elegance. I had no idea Montepulciano d’Abruzzo could be this good. (BTW, Morgan has just launched a fantastic literary website.)

• I’m thankful to have friends like the aforementioned Jim, who brought a wrapped bottle that he had intended to give me at my retirement party last summer. It was a 2001 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo, and its bouquet filled the room at Piccolo. The taste sensations lived up to the nose. This was supposed to be an “off” year in Piedmont; yet more evidence that brand trumps vintage, even at the high end.

Chuck• Finally, I’m thankful that the inimitable Chuck Kanski continues to champion rosé in the Twin Cities. Thanks in no small amount to his efforts, over the last five years Twin Citians have finally learned how wonderful these wines can be. His rosé tasting is one of the area’s most wonderful wine-soaked events every year, and this time around he’s moving to larger quarters. It’s a stupendous steal at $35; tickets available here.

 

 

 

17
Apr
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 4-17-15

Been working on launching the travel itinerary part of this site properly and am behind on surfin’ USA (and beyond). A few nice reads:

Latour• Like most wine lovers, I can’t afford the often insanely priced top-of-the-line stuff. The stellar website Vine Pair has come up with some good “backup plans” for some of those wines, although a few are still mighty spendy.

• Wine labels have never been a truth-in-advertising candidate, often aiming to evoke a feeling/mood or place and often, well, who the Hell knows? A clever graphic artist has come up with a dozen made-up labels that do the job more honestly.

Miraval• Not sure if there’s anybody to feel sorry for in this story: Brangelina wine is being counterfeited in China.

• Those who have thought about buying wine as an investment might want to think again. This echoes what some friends who have looked into this say. Of course, they’re not on Screaming Eagle’s mailing list.

• A St. Louis startup claims to have developed a swizzle-stick-like device to extract sulfites from wine without affecting the flavor, texture, etc. We’ll see (A) how much it ends up costing, and (B) who ends up really benefiting. Sulfite is wrongly blamed for a LOT of “red-wine headaches.” Here’s the lowdown, in Wine Folly’s usual stellar fashion, on the topic.

• Finally, lots of artsy (and fartsy) stuff to share, starting with a great address and finishing with a guide to wine:

Street sign

 

 

 

Cork

 

 

 

Wine Made Easy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13
Apr
2015
0

Wines of the Week: April 6-12

Everyday: I’m a bit hesitant to tout the 2013 Concha Y Toro “Casillero del Diablo” White ($12) because it’s impossible to Diablofind out what the grapes are; even the “tech sheet” at the winery’s website doesn’t say. That arrogance aside, this is mighty delicious juice, with a surpassingly fresh nose and persistent lemon (sauv blanc?) and pineapple (chardonnay?) flavors. It’s a pretty ideal springtime wine, meaning it goes well with the salads of the season, grilled chicken or fish and soft cheeses. And with the get-up-and-dance music on the new Mavericks album.

Occasion: I love wines that taste like where they came from. No, not really the whole terroir thing, but juice that purely and simply evokes its origins. GobelsbergThe 2009 Schloss Gobelsberg Riesling Tradition Reserve ($50) smells and tastes like the clean, crystalline mountain air of its native Austria. On the dry side (like most Austrian rieslings), this beauty offers up a mega-floral nose, pure stone-fruit flavors, spot-on acidity, perfect texture and a burst of minerality popping up near the clean-as-all-get-out finish. It’s trout season, and that freshwater fish is made for this wine, but smoked fowl and grilled Vidalia onions and zucchini will do nicely, too. So will the gorgeous Elliott Smith tribute album by Seth Avett and Jessica Lea Mayfield.

8
Apr
2015
0

Linkin’ logs: 4-8-15

I cover several newsy items in my Star Tribune column this week, but of course there’s lots more going on in the wide Web world:

• The Washington Post’s terrific wine columnist Dave McIntyre profiles a guy who’s investigating what domestic wines the JesusFounding Fathers might have consumed. Catawba, anyone? Meanwhile, a California newspaper investigates WWJD (What would Jesus drink?).

• Another redoubtable vinous scribe, Mike Steinberger, reacts to a screed about Sine Qua Non’s wines. Love his takeaway: “the millions of dollars that are spent chasing [Manfred] Krankl’s confections are millions of dollars not spent chasing the wines that I happen to prefer.”

• I still cringe whenever I see “impact” used as a verb unless a tooth is involved, so let’s call this reassurance about how the wine biz won’t be hugely affected by the California drought.

• This look at tasting terminology contains some fabuloso illos.

• Finally, a sign of the times. Any times:

Wine sign 2

 

8
Apr
2015
0

Wines of the Week: March 30-April 5

Everyday: Finally, people are starting to understand that the “real” stuff from Beaujolais is nothing like the bananarama BurgaudNouveau plonk. Wines like the 2012 Jean-Marc Burgaud Les Vignes de Thulon Beaujolais Village ($15) bring that home in a seriously tasty way. Juicy with hints of mint, this is a cherry-berry delight from the get-go, and a persistent pup as well. A clean and lovely red, it’s floral gamay at its near best, which means the food options are many and varied: roast chicken for sure, but also a fancy cheeseburger (yes, this is a Jucy Lucy wine) and anything with morels or other fresh mushrooms in it. Even (or especially) scallops. The dandy new duets disc from the redoubtable Van Morrison is the perfect accompaniment.

Occasion: Winter is only occasionally letting up hereabouts, so big ol’ hearty reds are still in season (as they always are at Abella 2Chez Ward). My favorite recent discovery in the tall, dark and toothsome realm is the 2009 Marco Abella Clos Abella Priorat  ($80), a blend of carignan (50 percent), grenache (39 percent) and cabernet sauvignon (11 percent) sourced from Priorat’s highest vineyard. It starts with big-ass berries and spices on the nose, and the fruit follows suit, perfectly ripe and rich and tugged along by firm but silky tannins through the surprisingly fresh finish. Game on at the dinner table, as in buffalo or venison — or some dry-aged beef, grilled or roasted or braised. Plop on some dark and stormy offerings from the late, super-great bluesman Son House and quaff away.