31
Aug
2012
0

Dave Ready Jr., making the (Murphy-)Goode stuff

For a guy who looks more like a “regular guy” than any winemaker I’ve met, Dave Ready Jr. sure loves his literary devices, those metaphors, similes and allusions.

Many of his Murphy-Goode labels evoke poker terms, including his “All In” Claret and “Dealer’s Choice” cabernet sauvignon. And when he talks about those red wines, red-meat references inevitably pop up. The claret is “like filet mignon in style. You don’t need a lot of fat to cut through it.  The cab “is a little more like a bone-in ribeye. It’s not a hard cab. 

But Ready’s real passion, beyond five-card draw, dry-aged steaks and even his beloved Minnesota Vikings, is making tasty wine, year in and year out.

The secret: “I make wines I want to drink.  Good thing he’s got a great palate :o, but of course there’s more to it than that. Ready combines some strongly held views on what wine should be with an ardent desire to find out how it can be made better.

“I can’t add flavor,” he said over lunch while visiting his native Twin Cities, “but one of the things I’ve always worked on is managing tannins. Mouthfeel is very important to me. Managing the tannins means you don’t have to do fining. We use to always fine, and now I don’t have to.

“With style changes I’ve always taken baby steps. With the chardonnay I started with 2-percent stainless steel (fermentation), and I liked it. The next year I went to 7 percent, then 15 percent, then 25 percent. It made a more balanced wine to my palate. 

The wine that might get the most attention is another white, a sauvignon blanc called “The Fum锝 (best I can tell, that’s not Texas Hold-‘Em vernacular).

“I don’t want the sauvignon blanc to be in that green category,” he said. “Sauvignon blanc is one of those grapes that you can control in the vineyard. 

Still, grapes grown in different regions provide different elements, he added. In his North Coast blend, “Mendocino has stone fruit, Alexander Valley is tropical, and Lake County brings minerality. It’s like a fruit salad. Sauvignon blanc might have the biggest flavor spectrum of anything. I really want the spectrum. 

In the end, he adds about 3-percent semillon, which he calls “all textural. I want it to feel good. I don’t want it to hurt. 

One alteration that also hasn’t hurt, Ready said, was becoming part of Jackson Family Wines. The late Jess Jackson’s outfit, which bought the winery in 2006 (Jess was still alive), has a reputation for going the laissez-faire route with the operations it purchases.

“It’s definitely not winemaking by committee,” Ready said. “No one says ‘hey, you should do this or that.’ We’ve been with them for six years, and never once have I been told, ‘hey could you tweak this?’ “

Instead, Ready has been doing his own tweaking, to Goode (sorry!) good effect.

26
Aug
2012
0

Linkin’ logs 8-26-12

When in the course of human relations, especially when it comes to wine, we sometimes opt for the Interwebs for guidance:

• The topic is senior sex, elderly types aiming to engage in what my way-better half and I call “the magic push-push” (pronounced with a Belgian accent). As usual, Dr. Ruth has it all figured out.

• No matter one’s age, apparently drinking makes us think we’re infinitely more attractive. I always thought it worked the opposite way, that we found others more fetching the more we drank.

• Speaking of close relations, a new study indicates that marriage drives women to drink more, and men perhaps less. This is definitely passed along without comment.

• And it turns out that the above study, if true, could be a positive for women if they take the recommended approach.

• All bets are off, however, for those who consume too many wine milkshakes. Kinda glad I don’t live in L.A., ’cause I might be tempted.

26
Aug
2012
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 19-25

Everyday: Maybe it’s the gorgeous aromatics. Or the fresh, vibrant fruit. Or the kick-ass dry, spicy finish. Actually, of course, it’s all three that make the Consumano Sicilia Insolia such a stone-cold delight. The last three vintages (2009-11) have featured bright, sunshine-y ripeness and just the right portions of acidity and minerally freshness. The insolia grape is called ansonica in Tuscany but finds its foremost expression in Sicily. It is used (with grillo and catarratto) to make the dessert and cooking wine marsala. Few whites are as versatile at the table, with spicy Italian or Asian dishes, most any chicken or seafood prep (especially zuppa di pesce, Italy’s bouillabaisse) and arugula-based salads at the top of the list.

Occasion: Year in and year out, the El Nido Clio Jumilla delivers rich, robust and complex but harmonious deliciousness. No matter the vintage (at least since the obscenely hot 2003 Europe-wide disaster), the tannins are beautifully integrated, creating a smooth, soulful drinking experience. This red from southeastern Spain is always about two-thirds old-vine (planted in 1944) monastrell and one-third cabernet sauvignon. Dense on both the nose and palate with dark fruit, cured meat and smoke, it’s not a wine for those who favor finesse. But it is a wine for those who favor grilled meats, stinky cheeses and sipping hearty wine by an open fire.

23
Aug
2012
0

A natural transition

Every so often, I’ll learn about another wine writer who started off as a sportswriter, the same career arc as yours truly. Dan Berger. Linda Murphy. Dale Robertson. Over time I developed a theory, as I am all too wont to do.

The other night, I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at Restaurant Alma with Dan (left), his wife Julianne and an enologist couple from Indiana. After Dan told a few stories from his days covering basketball, I shared my theory, which goes something like this:

“Those of us who become sportswriters often are at least as, if not more, drawn to the subject matter as to journalism itself. We love the games, in a way that few if any journalists love school-board or corporate-board meetings.

“But there’s a code of conduct involved, and it’s a valid one. You can’t cheer or boo or rib the referees, or really emote in any way over the action. That can tend to slowly but inexorably drain one’s passion for sports. Most fans couldn’t imagine going to so many games and behaving like wallflowers.

“With wine writing, however, we can make Homer Simpson yummy sounds or express disgust for plonk. There’s a code of conduct, but it’s much ‘lighter’: spit at tastings and especially at competitions and be courteous. So it’s a haven for passionate, expressive people.”

There were nods all around, and we started talking about matters more interesting than the ramblings of Bill Ward (which would be almost anything).

But the night provided an addendum to my theorem. One of the aspects of high-level sports that many of us relish is that when attending a game, we have no certitude about the way it will turn out (even when the Twins or Vikings are playing), and it’s also likely that we’ll see or experience something, a play or move or call, that we never have seen before.

On this night, I had brought along my favorite California pinot noir, Rivers Marie Summa Old Vine, which delivered its standard earthy deliciousness. But it was not the most fascinating wine of the evening, perhaps partially because I could only calibrate it with previous experiences “” and of course savor it.

Dan found a rarity on Alma’s swell wine list, a sauvignon blanc from the Rhone. It’s almost certainly illegal to grow sauvignon blanc there, Dan noted, but the Michel Gassier “Cercius Blanc” gets by with it by putting “Vin de France” on the label, with no reference to the Rhone region. That’s a fairly typical practice in rule-heavy (and scofflaw-heavy) France, but it still felt a bit like drinking contraband. Very tasty contraband.

Meanwhile, retired Purdue University enologist Ellie Butz (left) and her husband Mahlon had brought along a bottle they had made from the chambourcin grape. They were right proud of it, and rightly so. It was earthy and herb-y like a cab franc, with plenty of red fruit and a fine finish. A revelation.

In the context of Dan’s and my former profession, it was like a Chicago Bulls game back in the day. Michael Jordan (the restaurant) and Scottie Pippen (the Rivers Marie) did their usual all-star work. But the most memorable moments came from a couple of unexpected sources. Just the way it happens so often in sports.

One more thing: When I was a youngish sports scribe, I noticed that most peers in my age group paid little attention to the seasoned veterans in our mix, often even disdaining them. Somehow I was wise enough to know that I could become a whole lot wiser by befriending, and soaking in any- and everything from, these guys.

Even though I am now one of them, I still relish the chance to learn from this worldly-wise demographic.

21
Aug
2012
0

Linkin’ logs: The view(ing)

Just as there’s a difference between reading a novel and watching a movie based on it, there’s a difference between reading about wine and watching a video about wine. As always, the quality of the latter depends largely on the writer, performers and production team on the screen version.

I bring this up because three interesting wine-related videos have come to my attention during the last week. First, Alder Yarrow found an interesting older film that’s basically an infomercial for Simi. But it’s got a lot going for it: the legendary André Tchelistcheff (left), Mary Ann Graf and porn mustaches, for starters.

Then there’s a 9-minute clip of one of my very favorite vintners, Ken Wright, talking about his wines. The audio’s not great, but Ken can make geology and dirt and grapes into the most interesting topics around.

Finally, when you have an hour so, check out this alternately hilarious and flabbergasting (often both) “celebrity guide to wine” that the estimable Jon Bonne of the S.F. Chronicle unearthed. Even if you haven’t always wondered what Steven Seagal’s deepest thoughts on wine might be, it’s a stone-cold treat.

19
Aug
2012
0

Vin-genuity

There seems to be no limit to our species’ cleverness when it comes to wine equipment and/or turning the components of wine packaging to good, or at least amusing, usage.

The latest evidence is below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

19
Aug
2012
0

Wines of the Week: Aug. 13-19

Everyday: Consumers who are mostly versed in the California iterations might not even peg the Georges duBoeuf Domaine Les Chenevières Mâcon-Villages ($16) as a chardonnay. Granted, it’s more crisp, refreshing and slate-y than most any domestic chards, but the focused stone-fruit flavors and smooth texture provide hints that this is indeed made with Americans’ favorite white grape. That makes it a superb introduction to the French versions, while the acidity and elegance speak to its fondness for food: Chicken or fish dishes, especially with creamy sauces, were made for this firm but smooth white.

Occasion: Conversely, the Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($32) could be confused for a chardonnay, with its rich fruit and lush texture. This perennial delight fulfills the first mission of wine: to be delicious. An ever-shifting array of fruit “” pear here, Meyer lemon there, melon everywhere “” assaults the senses as this spicy beauty slides along the palate and finishes long and strong. The complexity make this a wonderful stand-alone wine (I can’t imagine a tastier cocktail), but it also plays well with hearty pork and spicy Asian dishes.