6
Mar
2016
0

Gleanings from ‘Wine & War’

A half-dozen things I learned while reading Don and Petie Kladstrup’s “Wine & War: The French, The Nazis & the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure”:

Cyrus• In the 6th century BC, Cyrus the Great (left) ordered his troops to drink wine as an antidote to infection and illness. Julius Caesar and Napoleon Bonaparte did likewise during their wartime activities.

• More on the wine-is-healthy front from Leon Douarche, vice president of the French Winegrowers’ Association: “The old and ill need wine. It’s an excellent food for them; it’s easily digested and a vital source of vitamins and minerals. It is the best elixir for guaranteeing a long life that has ever been invented.”

Rothenburg• During the 30 Years War, the city of Rothenburg was spared because e certain Burgermeister Nusch performed quite the heroic deed on a dare: emptying a 3.5-liter goblet of wine in one draught.

• The first year Domaine Romanee-Conti turned a profit was 1959.

• During World War II, there was such a bottle shortage in France that the Resistance fighters couldn’t make Molotov cocktails.

• Jan 24 is the feast day of St. Vincent, patron saint of French winemakers.

5
Mar
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 3-6-16

Opening and closures, a vinous workout and lots of viewing are on tap at Linkin’ Memorial High this week:

Screwcap• A new, uh, twist in the cork realm: Two stalwart wineries (both recent winners of Wine Spectator’s Wine of the year), Shafer and Domaine Serene, believe they can guarantee taint-free corks. At Chehelam, on the other hand, the ever-savvy Harry Peterson-Nedry touts another benefit of twist-off bottle sealers.

• The latest from the world of wine’s health benefits: a magnum-inous way to work out.

House• With the onset of a new season of “House of Cards,” the ever-clever folks at VinePair offer up pairings for binge-watching. And they’re really solid, both the types of wines and the recommended bottles

• Meanwhile, an extremely promising wine-soaked show is in the works on the other side of the pond. No telling how long it will take to get here, though.

• Finally, with winter loosening its grip even here in Tundraland, here’s some must-have “yard art”:

Wine Glass Holders

 

 

 

4
Mar
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Feb. 29-March 6

Everyday: Red blends remain all the rage, but for those of us who don’t care for gobs of residual sugar, wines like Qupethe 2013 Qupé Central Coast “a modern red” ($16) fill the bill. A blend of syrah, grenache and mourvèdre sourced from vineyards in Paso Robles, Edna Valley, Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez, this is a lusty but rustic red with just-right grip and acidity. The finish is full-bodied and -flavored, as the chunky dark red fruit shines through even more. Meaty pizzas, burgers, sausages  and grilled veggies would work with this, and for some reason I really wanna try a couple of corn dogs with it. The smooth but funky masterworks of Mr. Ry Cooder augment the occasion.

Occasion: Sometimes, a guy stumbles across a wine that just has it all: flavor, texture, complexity, life its own self. FournyAnd in this case, bubbles! The nonvintage Veuve Fourny & Fils Grande Reserve Champagne ($48) outshines most sparkling wines twice (or thrice) the price. Yeasty, citrusy nose? Check. Zingy but substantial mouthfeel? Check. Endless sensuousness on the finish? Double check. And at that price, it would make one helluva birthday, holiday or anniversary party infinitely better. Salty appetizers and cheeses are but one of many splendid potential pairings, along with chocolate, shrimp and strawberries (in or out of the glass). The sultry, sexy vocals of Rickie Lee Jones are just as swell an accompaniment.

3
Mar
2016
0

Arsenal & Burgundy: beautiful game = beautiful wine. Or not.

A whole lot of wine writers, present company included, started out as sportswriters. And many of us maintain our ardor in both realms.

Being writers, of course, we’re big on metaphors, similes and analogies.

ArsenalAnd so it was that I came to think of the connections between my favorite soccer team and my favorite wine region. And it turns out that Arsenal and Burgundy do have a lot in common:

• Both are seductive in style but all too often frustrating in results, regardless of whether expectations for a given match or bottle are high or low.

• Both have a tender underbelly and sometimes a lack of spine. Arsenal is perennially beset by more injuries than most of its rivals, while Burgundies are susceptible to flaws in the whites (oxidation) and the reds (“dumb” phases when the wines are just kinda dull, or even inert).

• But when everything clicks, both entities provide unsurpassed beauty, a perfect melding of dexterity and intensity, grace and awe, the mystical and the magical. The whole is infinitely greater than the sum of the parts.

• And for that to happen requires nuance and harmony — the just-right combination of skills, resourcefulness and DRCteamwork in Arsenal’s case and that whole “the grape, the ground and the guy/gal” deal in Burgundy.

• To top it off, Arsenal’s manager, Arsene Wenger, is as French as French can be, and so are many of the players, including the utterly Burgundian (i.e., wildly inconsistent) striker Olivier Giroud.

What’s left to decide is whether to continue kissing quite a few frogs to find the occasional princess.

Of course, many Arsenal and Burgundy showings fall somewhere in between. At times the Gunners are solid and dependable, like a nice Marsannay or Monthelie village bottling, and at others they are pallid but not putrid, like a subpar Gevrey-Chambertin.

But here’s the deal: Burgundies in recent years have been getting better in general and more dependable in particular, as vignerons “clean up” and refine once-chemically ravaged vineyards and enhance and hone their cellar Gunnerstechniques. Meanwhile, Arsenal keeps on having basically the same season year in and year out: showing tons of promise in the first half (the Gunners led the Premiere League at Christmastime) and then fading wanly, in part due to physical or mental fragility.

Maybe I should resign myself to settling for what the Gunners are and have been in recent years: a gifted, often delightful-to-watch team inevitably and inexorably fated to disappoint its fans. The annual seduction is, after all, quite rapturous.

Or maybe I should look for a club that’s more consistently excellent and ephemeral, and at least occasionally hits those magnificent heights.

Since I ain’t giving up Burgundy, I’m now on the lookout for futbol’s Team Barbaresco or Team Côte-Rôtie.

29
Feb
2016
1

Goode stuff: More Symposium gleanings

A few more notes, quotes and anecdotes from the recent Wine Writers Symposium in Napa:

Jamie• Blogger/author Jamie Goode provided insight and wit in a session on career paths. After aptly pointing out that the Internet “allowed geographically isolated geeks to connect and communicate,” he advised us: “Try to become as famous as you can be, and then try making money on it.”

But, he cautioned, going for maximum exposure can have its downside. “The one place that doesn’t work is if you’re a shit writer, because your shit writing will be exposed.”

• Goode also has a nice roundup at his blog of one of the better sessions on the roles and the rules for wine critics. I’ll have a separate post on this complicated topic soon.

VesethMike Veseth gave a highly informative talk on his specialty, the economics of wine and wine writing. He threw out a phrase I had not heard, even though I’m a huge fan of baseball and wine: The “Baseball Effect” occurs when “people have a ton of money but not enough to buy a baseball team. What do they do? Buy a winery.”

He also talked about the Internet-driven “Slash Effect,” noting that when “The Oxford Companion to Wine” first came out years ago, “people were just happy to have it.” But when the more recent “Companion to Beer” was released, the Internet was awash with sniping. “Now, because people feel they can be critical, they feel like they must be critical.”

Masson• Veseth then recounted some history I never had heard. “In 1940 Paul Masson was the most expensive American wine. In World War II, price controls went into effect. Other wineries couldn’t raise prices, so they bought Paul Masson and sold through their wines at higher prices under the Masson label. They ‘leveraged down’ the brand,” — which never recovered its lofty status, Orson Welles ads notwithstanding.

• Talia Baiocchi, managing editor of the way-cool Punch website, passed along an interesting tidbit: “The spirits world has the same fascination with facts and history and culture as the wine community.” Good for all concerned!

28
Feb
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Feb. 22-28

Everyday: One of the cool things about the wine world is that you don’t have to know how to pronounce a grape, Tikvesregion or brand to love what’s in the bottle. Good thing, because the 2013 Tikves Rkaciteli Special Selection ($12) is a bit of a mouthful. Thankfully, it also provides a mouth full of fabulous flavor and texture. With a slightly sweet edge like another central European fave, kerner, this vibrant white from Macedonia is firm and focused, with layers of stone- and tropical-fruit flavors and refreshingly zesty acidity. The grape (pronounced “rkah-zee-tely,” dates back to 3000 BC, btw. Try it with fried or stir-fried dishes laden with fish, fowl and/or veggies. And the clean, crystalline pickin’ and singin’ of the late, great Doc Watson.

Occasion: Let’s make no bones about it: Bordeaux is hard, with its gazillion brands and oceans of uneven juice Les Religieuseshitting these shores over the years. But finding a steller one at a more-than-fair price is one of the true delights of wine shopping. The 2011 Chateau Les Religieuses Saint-Emilion Grand Cru ($35) is just such a wine, lovely and hearty and bountiful and balanced. The start, midpalate and ample finish are all rustic but elegant, the texture earthy but silky. Yum. Bring on the roasted slabs or braised cheaper cuts of meat, or a winter vegetable stew, or, hell, a really good hamburger. And the stirring, sturdy breakout album from Mr. John Hiatt.

28
Feb
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 2-28-16

The wheels on the Web keep on turnin’, and have brought us these little gems:

Peter Sr.• I never had the good fortune to meet Peter Mondavi Sr. (left) — although I thoroughly enjoyed breaking bread with his son, Peter Jr. — before he died last weekend. Here’s a really good interview with him from just a few years ago.

• Info on this front — removing red-wine stains — is always welcome, especially for those as klutzy as yours truly.

• Doubly blessed: I not only got to go to the Premiere Napa Valley barrel tasting, but joined nine others in choosing our favorites among certain lots. And no, mine wasn’t a cabernet sauvignon.

• More potentially good news on the health front: A tipple just before catching some zzz’s might be beneficial.

• Finally, a classic “I hate when this happens” moment:

Screw Cap

 

24
Feb
2016
0

McInerney’s novel approach to wine

For the second time in three years, novelist/wine columnist Jay McInereny gave a keynote talk at the Professional Wine Writers Symposium, and again it was thoroughly enjoyable. Calling himself “a happy well-traveled amateur who’s a bit of a hedonist,” McInerney shared myriad thoughts.

Jay• On tasting notes: “Metaphors can be more useful to readers that descriptions.” And on wine writing in general: “I come down on the side of the subjective.”

• He loves reading the many wine-soaked passages in Evelyn Waugh’s “Brideshead Revisited” and Ernest Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises.” And he’s an unabashed fan of Auberon Waugh, calling “Waugh on Wine” “vituperative … the most pungent page for page” wine book ever. A favorite passage: “A tremendous amount of suffering goes in under the name Liebfraumilch.”

• McInerney cited “another polemicist who inspired me. Kermit Lynch is great storyteller and provocateur,” noting Lynch’s take on California wines: “I taste them and I wonder, ‘can a white man play the blues?’ ” And then he quoted Lynch double-channeling a couple of famous folks: “My idea of great Bordeaux is summed up by this quote from RichelieuAlexandre Dumas, speaking in the voice of Cardinal Richelieu (left): ‘They are neither generous nor vigorous, but the bouquet is not bad, and they have an indescribably sinister, somber bite that is not at all disagreeable.’ ”

• McInerney made a great distinction that never had occurred to me re. vintners: “In Europe they have these interesting dynastic stories. In California they have interesting first careers.”

• He also praised the kindness of vintners on two fronts. “Winemakers are usually very generous about sharing their ideas and passion about their wine … One of the things I love about winemakers is generosity toward their peers. ‘There’s this guy just up the hill, and he makes these amazing wines …’ ”

Jefferson• Fittingly, he called Thomas Jefferson “the founding wine geek” and cited a quote that has appeared on these pages: “No nation is drunken where wine is cheap; and none sober, where the dearness of wine substitutes ardent spirits as the common beverage.”

• Still, he sounded a cautionary note for us admirers of fermented grape juice. “One of the hazards of our trade is we are in a position to drink wine night and day. We have to draw some boundaries.” So he takes a month off from drinking every year, after which, he notes, “I never feel as good as I hoped I might.”

23
Feb
2016
0

Gleanings from Napa

What a week. The Wine Writers Symposium and Premiere Napa Auction events were exhilarating and exhausting. Some highlights:

Cathy• I finally got to meet Cathy Corison (left), and she was as delightful as I expected: classy, plain-spoken and whip-smart. The next day, my way better half got a glimpse of why Cathy is in such good shape, spotting her walking from her winery to the auction at the CIA, a good 3-mile hike.

• At the same tasting, I was talking to a vintner whom I respect enormously. He called the 2013 vintage “the biggest, the baddest, the best I have ever seen in Napa.” Noteworthy because (a) this guy is not at all given to hyperbole and (b) he favors wines with power, grace and some restraint.

Harlan• I finally got to meet Bill Harlan (left), owner of Meadowood resort and of course Harlan Estates. I was praising the Meadowood property, and he said he originally had bought the land that now is the golf course with the intentions of growing grapes there. I didn’t ask, but I’m guessing the golf revenues would rival those that his first-class vineyards do.

• We went to dinner with some of my favorite people in the wine biz. Lang & Reed’s John Skupny was his usual delightful self. And generous, bringing a 1976 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet that was sublime, still in its peak years at age 40. One of my favorite things about hanging with wine people, trade folks and/or just friends, is their generosity.

• Earlier in the week, we had hung out with Gabrielle Schaffer (below left) and Adam McClary, Minnesotans now making fab Gabrielle 2Loire-grape wines under the Gamling & McDuck label. I asked what they thought was the optimum place in Napa or Sonoma to grow cabernet franc. Gabe’s answer surprised me: Carneros, where chard and pinot reign. Last year, Amelia Ceja of Ceja Vineyards declared Carneros the best North Coast local for merlot. Maybe there’s a future Cheval Blanc in them-there hills (hey, a guy can dream).

• At Shafer’s can’t-miss pre-Premiere tasting on Friday, my way better half and I were lounging on the patio gazing at the Sunspot Vineyard, where Shafer’s best grapes are grown. Our reverie was shattered by a glass or two breaking on the nearby rocks. A short while later, who came out there to clean up? None other than the winemaker himself, Elias Fernandez. I had heard about his passion for cleanliness — the winery’s “Relentless” syrah is named for him — and I guess it also applies with klutzy revelers.