26
Jan
2016
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Linkin’ logs: 1-26-16

The weird, wacky world of wine on the Web:

Welles• “Bwaahh the French”: Outtakes of Orson Welles trying to do a Paul Masson ad after sampling too much of the product in advance.

• I grew up near some “dry” counties (no alcohol sales), but even those misguided backwaters didn’t ban using words like “hooch,” much less “wine,” as Iran just did.

• Lovin’ the opening up of Cuba, and so are some California winemakers set to visit there.

• I’ll take the ’05 Cheval Blanc for $1.50 and the ’06 Clos Veugeot for $4.50. Oh wait, there’s a “19” at the beginning of those vintages, and this menu, shared by my friend Mark, is from a century ago. Sigh.

• A couple of viniferous gift options, the second one courtesy of my friend Bill:

Cork Clothes

 

 

Wine Labels

 

 

26
Jan
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Jan. 11-17 (belated)

Everyday: We’ve come a long way, bambino, from the days when the only Soave found on these shores was CoffeleBolla. Now, exemplary efforts like the 2014 Coffele Soave Classico ($14) are readily available. As Satchmo would say/sing, what a wonderful world. This lemony delight is both breezy and rich, kinda like a chardonnay with firm acidity. From the seriously intoxicating aromas (spring!) through the vibrant finish, this beauty delivers gobs of flavor and harmony. Bring on the fish tacos, or any tacos actually, or even any Tex-Mex food. The regal vocals of Kevin Mahogany are just as swell a pairing.

Occasion: My favorite California pinot noirs are from the western end of the all-too-vast Gap'sSonoma Coast appellation. The 2013 Three Sticks Gap’s Crown Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($65) is just such a wine, with layers of varying red-fruit flavors (from cranberry to red plum) and a smooth texture. This is a hearty but refined red with a lot of complexity on the finish. Now that Bob Cabral of Williams-Selyem fame is the winemaker, Three Sticks’ pinots might get even better. Serve this gem with roasted chicken or pork or root veggies. Plop on some Dire Straits for a perfect evening

25
Jan
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Jan. 18-24

Everyday: New Zealand is not the first place one thinks of when the subject is riesling. Or the second or the third. But Giesenthe 2013 Giesen New Zealand Riesling is about as good as this varietal gets for $14. Lovely floral and citrus aromas pave the way for tangerine and tropical notes (ginger!) on the palate. There’s ample acidity and minerality as the wine rollicks through an enticing and ample finish. With a swell but hard-to-find pinot gris in its arsenal along with this little gem, Giesen soon will be known for a lot more than its signature Kiwi sauv blanc. It’s a swell brunch wine but also a dandy match for spicy shrimp or chicken dishes. This smooth beauty also would be deftly complemented by that champion of melody and harmony, Mr. Oscar Peterson.

Occasion: Long Island is not the first place one thinks of when the subject is friulano. Or … never mind. Just seek out Channingthe superlative 2012 Channing Daughters Sylvanus Vineyard Tocai Friulano ($24). A pristine paragon of stone fruit, nuts and spices, this bone-dry but juicy white is pure and persistent, all the way through a near endless finish. I haven’t been knocked out by many Long Island wines, but this one did the trick. It’s ideal for salumi and almost any other appetizer, plus pasta with seafood or seafood without pasta. The lovely but substantive music of Father John Misty is another spot-on accompaniment.

22
Jan
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 1-22-16

Technology, health and geography are on the docket at Linking’ Memorial High this week:

• It took awhile, but it appears that wine vending machines are becoming a thing.

• I’ve judged with Dr. Michael Apstein before and found him to be bright and insightful. So I trust what he says about the possible benefits of taking two alcohol-free days a week.

• So I have seen a buttload of reports on the health benefits of wine, particularly red wine. And I have seen WAY too many of what I call “boner ads.” So I guess it was inevitable that the twain shall meet with red wine reportedly helping treat erectile dysfunction.

• If you’re like me, you hate those wine bottles with a buttload of wax at the top. My friend Mark just plows through with Waxa corkscrew; here’s what the estimable Dunn Vineyards recommends.

• Government-recommended guidlelines are gospel to some and anathema to others. Here’s a look at proposed drinking limits around the globe.

• Wine can be just fine in a water glass, but it’s inarguably more expressive in a decent “real” wine glass. Turns out those vessels apparently also mask some unwelcome aromas.

• Finally, pull put this in case of emergency:

Wine-One-One

14
Jan
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 1-14-16

Lots of stuff out there on the World Wine Web, as per usual, A few faves:

Gerard• A French “Sideways”? If anyone can pull it off, winery-owning thespian Gerard Depardieu can.

• This is pretty funny: A British neuroscientist chronicles the effects of going a whole month without alcohol.

• No surprise here: Most wineries understate the amount of alcohol on their bottle labels.

• Oh ho ho, it’s magic: Making bottles disappear, and new ones appear. And elsewhere in the world of TV, this ad spot is rather droll.

• I’m with Blake Gray: These mergers of humongo wholesalers are unseemly, and perhaps should be illegal.

• Finally, a philosophical take on bubbles:

Champagne sign

 

 

12
Jan
2016
0

Snippets from the Judgment of Cloverdale

As usual, judging wines last week has been a good bit of fun and a LOT of work (you try giving a fair assessment to each of 71 viogniers in one morning). Beyond cabernet sauvignon that smelled exactly like buttery apple crisp and a BW @ SFcouple of other reds that smelled exactly like compost, the four days at Cloverdale, Calif., provided pleasurable work.

Some notes, quotes and anecdotes ran in my Star Tribune column this week. A few outtakes from San Francisco Chronicle judging:

• Drinking red wines all day can cause Tannin Tunnel Syndrome. There was a lot of talk about inventing a product that separates our teeth and our inner lips after hours of testing reds. But mostly I was reminded of a great 3 Stooges bit, that portrays the effect of not tannins, but alum added to a punch. Go to 9:00 for 2-plus minutes of merriment.

• Quite a few wines were seriously oak-laden, and some of them were in the inexpensive categories. That usually Oak Chipsmeans oak chips rather than barrels. And I heard an interesting analogy on that from a fellow judge who also happens to be a winemaker: “You have to be really careful because it’s like instant coffee. If you use just a little too much, it ruins the whole thing.”

• We keep hearing that the cork-taint problem is waning, but last week, not so much. Our panel sent back quite a few corked wines for a re-pour, and at least four of them had TCA on the second bottle. Our coordinator said on the third ay: “There’s usually a case or two [in the corked-bottle corner backstage], but I don’t think I’ve seen nearly this many there.” Not good.

Scratchpad• Oh, and the winners: Korbel Brut California Champagne (sparkling); 2014 V. Sattui Los Carneros Chardonnay (white); 2015 Barnard Griffin Rosé of Sangiovese (pink); a tie between 2013 Runquist Nostro Vino Vineyard Amador County, Zinfandel and 2013 Sonnet Wine Cellars Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir (red); 2013 Claar Cellars White Bluff Vineyards Columbia Valley Riesling “Ice Wine” (dessert), and 2014 Scratchpad Central Coast Sauvignon Blanc (label).

6
Jan
2016
0

Linkin’ logs: 1-6-16

Scrollin’, scrollin’ scrollin’ for cool stuff on the InterTube. Found these:

Ben Carter• 2015 was a banner year for the Grim Reaper, and the new annum is looking like more of the same. The engaging, insightful Ben Carter just left us way too early. Best tribute is to check out his work here.

• Now that people are starting to enjoy sparkling wine year-round, not just for holidays and weddings, this (sorry) eye-popping warning is worth heeding.

Mulled• Speaking of timely: Most of our memories of mulled wine are a deterrent to wanting to make it ourselves. The clever folks at VinePair explain how to do it right, and to warm the cockles of our heart (whatever those are)  a bone-chilling evening.

• OK then: Canned wine will be a thing, maybe a big thing, this year, according to the folks at Whole Foods.

• Finally: this tippler speaks for many of us:

Memory & Wine

 

4
Jan
2016
0

Gleanings: 1-4-16

The anecdotal hits, they keep on coming:

• I should know better than to do this, but I went to the Wine Spectator site to check out the tasting notes on a wine I Ussegliolove, the Pierre Usseglio Mon Aieul, and one of the descriptors was “singed alder.” W. T. F. Also. Bite. Me. I almost wish upon this reviewer what my friend Mark calls “singed testicle fuzz.” As Terry Theise has noted of such delving-too-deeply characterizations, “this is why the hate us.”

• I’ve mentioned before how much I love Shafer’s “Line on Wine” missives, in which the ever-clever Andy Demsky compiles and communicates fun facts and figures about our favorite beverage. Some gems in the latest email: A Bordeaux winery has made its cellar nuclear-bomb-proof … Wine consumption in Africa is rising five times faster than on any other continent … Roman adults back in the day consumed an average of one liter of wine per day … and much more.

You can (and should) subscribe to the newsletter here. But wait, there’s more: Additional tidbits are available on Twitter: @LineOnWine.

• I’m a huge fan of the Drouhin “Vaudon” Chablis, Year in and year out. It really works as an introduction to Chablis Vaudonfor the unfortunate souls who have not delved into the region’s wines. It’s got just enough of the mineral/chalk that identifies it as a Chablis, but is more recognizable as a chardonnay (thus a good “bridge” for domestic chard fans).

So we had one out at Thanksgiving — I believe strongly in providing a range of wines on the table — and it didn’t get finished. And when I sampled it the next night, it tasted more like a New World chardonnay (and even a little bit viognier-ish) than a Chablis. If anyone has a remote idea why this would be, lemme know.

• I’ve been catching up on some articles I had squired away in 2015 and came across this swell quote from a Vinous Melkainterview with wine consultant extraordinare Philippe Melka:

“A lot of what makes up the wine business is almost counter to the American mentality; it’s counter to what they have learned and what they understand. It doesn’t make sense to some people that they have to wait, wait, wait in the wine business. They have to plant their vines, and then wait for the fruit, and then wait for the wine to be in the barrel and then wait for it to age in the bottle. This is a difficult part of consulting — teaching people to wait for something special when they are used to getting what they want right away.”

4
Jan
2016
0

Wines of the Week: Dec. 28-Jan. 3

Everyday: Sometimes I think that my tasting notes for a wine should start and end with “yum,” and the score/rating Roter 2would be the number of exclamation points that follow. Several of them would be attached to the Wimmer-Czerny Roter Veltiner Fels am Wagram ($18). The vintage truly doesn’t matter with this crisp but savory, super-expressive gem because the fruit is beyond delicious and the bracing acidity ensures that it ages nicely. Good luck keeping your paws off of it, though. This amalgam of wet stones and stone fruit is a white wine for red-wine lovers. And for all wine lovers. Of course it will play well with most any seafood, but I’m popping a cork on it the next time we make an herby roast pork. And plopping on Ryan Adams’ stellar “remake” of Taylor Swift’s “1989.”

Occasion: I loves me some Super Tuscans, but the tariffs can be a bit much. Or a lot much. A great entree/sampler  La Volteis the 2013 Ornellaia Le Volte dell’Ornellaia ($22), which has the flavor, firmness and swell finish to identify it as a worthy wine. And the cherry-berry thing to ID it as a Tuscan wine, although not as powerful as its “Super” siblings (which is fine by me). That also makes it a great match for pizza and pasta, especially with tomato sauce, but this is also one of those burgers-and-brats wines, Make the smooth but stirring work of 10,000 Maniacs part of the occasion.